18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club

[BRiddoch]

You have taken this kit to a whole new level.  I want to build it again using your ideas.  Thanks for sharing Bob.

 

     Bob R.

[BobF]

Hi Bob,

 

I'm glad that you like it.  I have to admit that I'm not sure sometimes how some of my ideas are going to turn out, or how they will be received by all of you.  Your kind words are appreciated.

 

BobF

[JEW]

Bob,

In your detailed description when planking the longboat you mentioned the following below statement, but you did not mention how to create the planking grid. I was wondering if you could tell me how this grid is made and how it is used?

 

"The distance between the sheerline and the bottom of the strip was divided into eaqual segments by using what I call a "planking grid." I think it's also referred to as a "diminishing grid."  I opted to plank my hull with thirteen strakes per side.  I just felt that it would allow for a little more wood on each kit-supplied strip during the spiling process.  Hopefully, the reduction of each plank by 1/12th won't be that noticeable."

 

 

[BobF]

The grid was made using 1/4" graph paper.  There are a number of variations, but this is one of the easiest to make.  If you look at the attached photo, all the lines are equally spaced on the right side.  In this example, the spacing is a 1/2".  It can be whatever you want it to be.  I think I used 1/4" spacing on the grid for the long boat.  The lines all converge to the center of the page on the left side.

One thing I should mention about this particular grid, is the fact that there is a very slight distortion in the spacing out towards the upper and lower edges of the grid.  This does not come into play on the long boat, since you will be laying out only 11 or 12 planks.

Using a card stock strip, you mark the distance from the sheer line to the keel.

Lay that strip on the grid, and find the location where the tick marks intersect the converging lines that will give you the number of spaces (planks) you require.

You then mark those points on the strip, and transfer those points to the corresponding bulkhead on the model.  The marks, in many cases, will be different for each bulkhead, so you will have to repeat the procedure for each one.  At the bow, you will lose planks as they are glued into the rabbet, so the proportions at the bow for the remaining planks may change.

If you intend to glue two full planks to the model at the sheer line per the instructions, you will then have to measure from the bottom side of the second plank to the keel to get your remaining proportions.  I proportioned all the planks, which made the planking job at the bow a little easier, but that's your call.  If you have questions about this procedure, please don't hesitate to drop me a line.

 

BobF

[alde]

Bob, Thank you for the outstanding tutorial. You have made some things clear with your photos and text that I did not quite understand before as a beginer. I now have a pretty firm grasp of using tick strips and the grid. Am I correct in thinking that the grid takes the place of proportional dividers? I will use these techniques on my next model. It will be my first time spileing planks as the Bounty Launch kit does it for you.

 

I will bookmark this thread for future use. I have this longboat kit on the shelf for when I'm ready for it.

 

Al D.

[BobF]

Hello Al,

 

Yes, on the long boat, the tick marks take the place of the proportional dividers, which are too cumbersome for such a small model.  Another departure from conventional spiling practices is the fact that the tick marks allow you to plank from the keel up to the sheer plank, which is what I did on the long boat.  At this point, I have not used this procedure on larger hulls.  I've given numerous presentations on spiling, and this little long boat is causing me to rethink how it can be done!

 

BobF

[alde]

Bob, Thanks for the informative reply. This is probably the most educational thread I have had the pleasure to read. I am looking forward to trying the techniques.

 

Al D.

Edited March 25, 2014 by alde

[JEW]

Bob,

               Thanks for the quick reply I am very new to this hobby, in fact this longboat will be my very first attempt at building a model ship made of wood, my goal some day is to build the Bluenose from scratch. Your log has been a great help along with others I have looked at on this site. I’m more of a visual person so all of the photos have been well received. I look forward to you finishing this project. Thanks again for you help.

[BobF]

J -

 

Welcome to the hobby.  Although I've been building model ships longer than I care to admit, I still took time to study all the build logs very closely before starting my own long boat.  I think you're on the right track, and don't hesitate to ask questions if you aren't sure about something.  This is a very supportive group, who are more than willing to help.

 

BobF

[dgbot]

On a side note by builiding this model you will be gaining experience and knowledge that will prove both interesting and helpful down the road.   And do not be afraid to ask for help.  This is a bunch of great people who are always willing to help out.

David B

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

   With regards to using paint brush bristles as nails...are you using natural or synthetic bristles.

[BobF]

Hi Chuck,

 

I honestly don't know.  I had an old brush that was expendable, so I cut the bristles off, and threw them in a Zip Lock bag for safe keeping.  The bristles are random in size (diameter), so I had to sort through them, until I found enough the same size to do the job. I'm sorry that I can't be more helpful.

 

BobF

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

 

    No worries.  It gives me some ideas.

[BobF]

Here are two photos of the completed floorboards.  I copied their shape off the kit plans, but some edge bending was needed so that uniform spacing could be achieved between each pair.  These pieces were made with boxwood.  The platforms are next.

 

BobF

 

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Since I am starting the Longboat as my first ever build (as I see others are), I have also bookmarked this thread.

 

Excellent guide for those of us totally inexperienced at this craft.

 

If you are not/have never been a teacher - you do it very well.

[BobF]

Thank you so much.  I hope that what I have posted here will be of some value to you.  I noted your questions about edge bending.  If you are going to use the kit supplied strips, I really don't think there's any other way to do it, where the plank runs will have a pleasing appearance.  Prior to starting the long boat, I always spiled my planks the old fashion way.  Chuck has convinced me that there is a place for this technique in our approach to planking a hull.  I don't think it can be applied to every situation, but it will work in most cases.  It'll also save on wood, and it's not that difficult to do.  The key is using lots of clamps, so the plank can't buckle.  Also be sure to place a piece of card stock or paper under the clamp, so you don't leave an imprint in the soft bass wood.  I will now get off my soapbox.  Please don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have any questions, and good luck!

 

BobF

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

One thing that I have picked up is the need for clamps, clamps and more clamps.  I bought 4 dozen 3/4" clamps so hopefully I'm set for those.

 

I've started on the keel section now, but still working on getting a camera so that I can post pictures in by build.  Soon, I hope.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Hey Bob,

 

That piece of glass you were using in your first pictures of edge bending - is that "armored" glass?

 

Did you make that or buy it?  

[BobF]

One of the nice things about belonging to a club, is the fact that members sometimes bring in extra items they don't need.  The plate glass is a good example of that.  At the time, when I obtained it, I had no idea that I would be doing edge bending with it.  The glass just seemed like too good an offer to pass up.  (My wife would be rolling her eyes, if she read this!)  It just so happens that the glass was also "armored" and fairly thick.  Actually, you can use just about anything that has a smooth surface, is rigid, and isn't too thick.  This last requirement has more to do with the size of the clamps you are using, than anything else.  So, don't just focus on glass.

 

BobF

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Understood.  Thanks Bob.

[BobF]

Well, I finally was able to spend a little time in my workshop.  The net result is that I was able to complete the forward platform on my longboat.  I may have been re-inventing the wheel on this one, but I decided to use a spacer block, so my template would have the proper shape, at the correct height inside the hull.

The block, with a strip of wood glued to it, was made thick enough so that the template would give me the shape of the upper surface of the platform. The wood strip helped keep the block in place as I worked with the template.  This worked out pretty well.

It took me a couple of tries before I was able to get a template I was happy with.

I then blackened the edges of the planks, and glued them to two wood strips that were positioned so they wouldn't interfere with the frames.

Once I had the platform cut to shape, and I was happy with the fit, I used black paint brush bristles to simulate three rows of nails.  For a final touch, I added a small strip of wood across the face of the platform.  This strip was actually "L" shaped, which allowed me to glue it to the underside of the platform.

I've been told by friends who have completed their longboats that the forward platform is the more difficult of the two.  I sure hope they're right.

 

BobF

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Looks eggscellent to me.  

[dgbot]

Looking good Bob, I wish I could see it up close. Great idea of using paint bristles

David B

[tlevine]

Looking good, Bob.  Well worth the wait.  Now stop playing with those grandchildren and get back to making more sawdust!

[BobF]

Hey Toni,

 

Yeah, my grandkids take a lot out of me, but I wouldn't have it any other way.  Stepping down as NRG Secretary, hopefully, will give me more time to model, and thanks for the kind words.

 

BobF

[Chuck]

It looks really good Bob.  I am glad you will have more time to make ship models.  Your paint work just amazes me every time I see new pictures.  Well done!! 

[BobF]

Chuck,

 

I appreciate your comments.  Considering the fact that I probably use my airbrush only once every two or three years, somehow, it turns out OK.  The mentoring I have received from Kurt V, I'm sure, has definitely helped.

 

BobF

[dgbot]

Bob,  The NRGs loss is your gain you will be hard to replace.  I am glad too that  you had fun with the kids.  I await with panted breath on the continuing saga of the English Longboat.  I just wish I was there to really eyeball it.  You are still my teacher after all these years.

David B

Edited July 8, 2014 by dgbot

[BobF]

David -

 

Although I'm stepping down as NRG Secretary, I'm not exactly riding off into the sunset.  I hope to remain active within the Guild in other capacities.  We'll see what happens.

 

I'm sure you'll get to see the model in person in the not too distant future.  Get well, and come home soon!

 

BobF

[Stuntflyer]

Bob, I always enjoy reading your build logs. They are very informative and the quality of your work is outstanding.

Edited July 18, 2014 by Stuntflyer