Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build

[Hubac's Historian]

Thank you, Bill!  I am more than happy to elaborate.

 

Over the course of this project, I have come to the conclusion that Tanneron was attempting to show Soleil Royal at both ends of the spectrum of her development; 1669 and the newly-build SR2 of 1693.  His model’s stern embodies specific characteristics of these two very different eras in French naval architecture.

 

Specific to 1669/1670, you have an extremely tall sheer, with an expansive tafferal space in which to display Apollo’s horse-drawn chariot.  Tanneron also chose to show three tiers of open, walkable stern balconies that wrap to open, walkable quarter galleries.  This detail is mostly consistent with the Vienna portraits of what I still believe to be the Monarque.

 It is my observation of Puget’s portrait of the Dauphin Royal, however, that this lowest stern balcony was most likely only a centralized Juliet balcony that did not allow direct passage to the quarters:

 

The primary difference between Tanneron’s representation of the quarters, and what appears to have been actual practice in 1669, is their shape.  Above, on the Monarque, you have three balustraded tiers, supported by split-tail tritons between the first and second tiers, and by corbels for the third tier.

 

Yet, Tanneron chose an overall shape and structure that is more consistent with the late development of the “bottle” style of quarter gallery, in which, the quarters are completely closed.  This is what I believe to be the re-worked quarter drawing for SR2, in 1693:

 

And so, likely owing to the multiplicity of conflicting and fragmentary primary sources, it is my opinion that Tanneron tried to have his cake and eat it too.

 

While I have yet to find an authenticated confirmation, I do believe that Puget was initially contracted to refine LeBrun’s original draft for the stern allegory.  With a few exceptions - notably, that the figures of Africa and the Americas were male, and that a docile tiger sat at the foot of Asia - the composition was only lightly altered to fit within the more restrained and compartmentalized style of Berain.

 

The model I am making reflects a particular transitional moment in the evolution of the French quarter gallery - a middle stage between completely open and fully closed.  The lowest tier is fully closed, as that was the functional toilet.  There is one open walk on the main deck level that communicates directly between the stern and quarters. The upper stern balcony does not extend beyond the quarter pieces that support the side lanterns.

 

The tromp l'oeil structure of the upper amortisement is a weight and cost saving measure that came into voque as so many of the early First Marine ships had their sheer reduced (1672), and their ornament pared-down, in an effort to improve their handling characteristics.

 

My belief that this is what is intended by the Berain/Vary quarter portrait is perfectly supported by the 1677 refit portrait of the Royal Louis:

 

The only notable difference, here, is that the third level of the amortisement, that corresponds with the rail of the upper stern balcony, projects away from the hull and is supported from below by female figures.  The windows, above that, are a more flattened tromp l'oeil structure.

 

And so, that is essentially why I am doing what I am doing.

 

Edited June 24, 2021 by Hubac's Historian

[Bill Morrison]

Marc,

 

You gave a thorough answer that makes real sense.  It is interesting to see different interpretations of SR's evolution; yours is better than most!

 

Bill

[Hubac's Historian]

Again, much appreciated, Bill!  I am happy that you have continued to support the project.

[kirill4]

2 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

Progress has been a bit slow, lately.  I have continued to be amazed by the amount of prep that is necessary before painting the forward bulwark pieces.

 

I was having trouble making good eyebolts out of 28 gauge annealed wire.  The scale wasn’t quite right, and the eyes were more ovoid than round, before the stems would break from twisting.  So, I switched to 32 gauge galvanized steel wire, and consulted Marsalv’s amazing log for Le Gros Ventre:

 

Somewhere, in there, he shares his particular technique for making these eyes, and it involves twisting the shank through a hole drilled into a clothes pin; doing so ensures a straight shank and a neatly centered eye:

 

I did not happen to have any wooden clothes pins, on hand, so I took a poplar scrap and was able to achieve the same results:

 

I found that I had some difficulty while drilling into the bulwarks for these eyes.  I repeatedly drilled all the way through the bulwarks.  On a wood model, this would be a disaster!  On this model, I could simply plug and fair the holes, on the ....

 

Good day Marc,

I have some another experience making eyebolts,rings and hooks...

I didn't twist them...for plastic model ,plastic masts ans spars it looks like not neccessary to apply excessive force on the rigging lines...just very light tension to keep them strait ,no more...

I used just single iron wire... and blackening liquid...pliers,nail cutter...couple of small drills different sizes secured in epoxy and used as patern for making hooks or eyebolts...

Bended as desired (eyebolt or hook) wire was blackened after fabrication.

For making Rings ,I used drill as well...tightly wraping wire around drill in shape of spring, when ready, remove made" spring" from the drill and just cutt each spiral/ full turn of wire, by nailcutter, one by one, and You will have rings... you coud see pictures from post 1592

https://karopka.ru/forum/messages/forum190/topic10341/message905441/#message905441

Post 1889 - rings from wire spiral

https://karopka.ru/forum/messages/forum190/topic10341/message1016273/#message1016273

Post2448

https://karopka.ru/forum/messages/forum190/topic10341/message1279159/#message1279159

Edited June 24, 2021 by kirill4

[Hubac's Historian]

This is excellent Kirill!  I will need to make hooks like that, eventually, so this is very timely advice.  You appeaR to flatten the hooked end to give it a more "forged" appearance.  Do you achieve this with pliers, or do you actually peen the hook with, like, a fine nail-set maybe?

 

What I found most interesting is your method for lashings/seizings; a series of single, over-hand knots.  This is really great, because I was searching for an easier method to do this, without a serving machine.  I will be well-served 😜 to re-read both your log for the Galleon, and Popeye2Sea's log for SR, as I begin to think about the rigging.  I really want the rigging to be good!

Edited June 24, 2021 by Hubac's Historian

[druxey]

Might I suggest non-ferrous metal? Brass wire or, if you want really soft wire, copper. That will avoid any corrosion issues later on.

[kirill4]

Good day Marc,

"Forged" effect - was made just by pliers...

this iron wire quite soft(I guess it was preliminary threated ,like heated up and immersed in cold water to get it soft almost as copper wire), originaly it used as seizing wire for additional/ control securing important "nuts-bolts" in machinery fields...

Regarding "lashing" imitation by series of simple knots, Yes!:)))

I like it, I ve found this way spontaniously and than used it everywhere in my model...

To get best results in this imitation, threads for seizing or serving must be extrimely thin!

I started with using one of three lines of ordinary thinest sewing thread, but this method, separating thread in 3 lines, quite time consuming...:(

And much later on, I've found ideal mono thread for this purpose -  Gutermann ,  Scala - see attach

Very thin, plain,...no furs effect... ideal foe seizing,serving and other jobs need to be done with "rope"... and as basic threads for making your own ropes as well!

[kirill4]

Just now, druxey said:

Might I suggest non-ferrous metal? Brass wire or, if you want really soft wire, copper. That will avoid any corrosion issues later on.

Oh yes!

Agree.!

..there is risk of rust and corrosion ,if you use unprotected iron wire...I have some rusted spots already...later on , I started to use matt varnish as finish coating to protect my wires agains corrosion...after couple of years, no more" new "rust appeared...:)

[kirill4]

Ah , Marc,

Forgot what I wanted to say...

Did You try to fitt ring bolts with ring, but not only ring bolt alone as on your pictures ?

Ring bolt need to be with inner diam, same or little bit bigger than OD of wire of which Oring made...ring bolt with ring will looks more interesting !?:)

Edited June 25, 2021 by kirill4

[Hubac's Historian]

Actually, Kirill, I am definitely going to make split-rings for attaching the breaching ropes.  I just need to purchase a pair of super-fine jewelers’ shears to cut them.

 

Speaking about the breaching ropes, I had an idea for a cheat to make it easier to seize to  the rings.  Off the model, I could seize each end to a ring; cut the breaching rope in the middle; attach the rings to the eyes; feed each cut end into the breaching rope holes in the carriage; a spot of thin CA will hold the ropes in their holes.  Otherwise, I have no idea how one would get into such a cramped space to actually seize directly on the model.

 

My haul-in tackles will be fine PE, and while I will probably fasten rings to the deck for the haul-out tackles, I may not actually rig haul-outs.  I’m un-decided as to whether that makes the deck look too busy.

Edited June 25, 2021 by Hubac's Historian

[kirill4]

Good day Marc,

This your idea to use cutted in half breaching rope which is preliminary seized  to the corresponding ring/ bolt-ring pair with later installation at place - it is just what we need!!! It is easiest way...making seizings on the model need to be avoided as much as possible!

 I did all my breaching ropes seizings out of model...and later just fitt at place " preassembled unit"... 

For keeping / to fix ropes in designated places... or making it looks "loosened " /looks slack - I would highly recomment to use CA Gel, not liquid CA...gel it is exactly that what we need when working with small fragile things which need to be fast secured (and removed if ness-ry)on the model and when busy with all these "rigging"

 ALL THE BEST!

Kirill

 

[kirill4]

But... than You need to fitt all those ringbolts of smaller size...if You planned to use pair" ring bolt-ring"...

This way, making ring bolt with twisted end makes this end too thick...:(

For "clean " cutting of threads and wire you could use just  conventional nail cutters...

[Hubac's Historian]

I’m not sure what you mean in this last post, Kirill.

[amateur]

I guess he means that the ringbolts you have made so far have an eye with an inner diameter that is larger than the thickness of the ring that will go into it.  I.e. you need a far smaller drill size for your ringbolts. But: using a far smaller drill will result in a ringbolt of which the twisted end is actual thicker (or nearly as thick) as the outer diameter of the ringbolt, thus looking a bit clumsy and out of scale.  As far as I read his comment: his suggestion is to make ringbolts like the originals: single wire, and an eye bent into the end.

 

btw: I don't comment or react to your posts, but I am a regular reader of your story. Interesting stuff to read, and a breathtaking model!

 

Jan

[Hubac's Historian]

Ah, yes, Jan - that makes sense.  Thank you!

 

I also appreciate your presence, here and throughout MSW, as you always have something insightful to say.  Thank you for sticking with the project!

[kirill4]

Jan thanks! ,

Marc,

Exactly - this what I meant!!!

:))))

Edited June 25, 2021 by kirill4

[popeye2sea]

When installing my cannons I put the breeching through the carriage then seized the complete ring bolts to each end. To install I just located the carriage in the correct spot and glued the shank into the holes in the bulwark.  All of the work for the cannons was done off the ship.

 

Another small hint: when opening split rings never open by pulling the ends directly apart. Open the ring by, for lack of a better word, shearing one end to the side. This will preserve the shape of the ring when you then bring it back in line to close. Otherwise you may end up with a oblong or slightly flattened ring.

 

Regards,

[Bill Morrison]

On 6/24/2021 at 4:10 PM, Hubac's Historian said:

Again, much appreciated, Bill!  I am happy that you have continued to support the project.

Marc,

I might take the occasional sabbatical. but I am always following this build!

Bill

[Hubac's Historian]

Henry, that is still a workable method for me; I’ll only have to close the rings around the eyes.  Great tip!

 

Will you be attending the NE Joint Clubs Mtg in October?

[popeye2sea]

It conflicts with an 1812 Marines event. But I may be able to get out of doing both days of that event.  I really would like to go to the meeting. I have not been to the last few.

 

Regards,

[Hubac's Historian]

If it works out for you, Henry, it’d be nice to meet you.  I’ll be there, so stop by and say hello, if you have the chance.

 

ATB,

Marc

[md1400cs]

You and Kirill are absolutely beyond any comparisons working in plastic - such awesome work. Wow!!

Also, for me, I'm constantly learning, and will hopefully add some of the details to my work from reading your notes and other very knowledgeable builder's comments who are actively following this build.

 

Cheers,

 

[Hubac's Historian]

‘Much appreciated, Michael!

 

Well, it was a sweltering and otherwise frustrating day, but I managed to finish painting the stern gallery bulwark.  My moment of zen:

 

 

Interestingly, the brighter gold highlights only seem to pop in muted natural light.  The monogram escutcheons were interesting to paint because the carved detail is incised; I first fed gold into the V-channel, and then veeery carefully painted the cobalt color up to the edges.  I can’t say with absolute authority that this color scheme is completely authentic to the times, but it does make for a very vivid display.  It is just time consuming.

 

I have three complete months until the Joint Clubs conference in New London.  Completing the bulwark painting and installing them in time for the show seems like a daunting task.  The paint work must be impeccable in order to show the frieze and amortisement to best advantage.  At the least, maybe I’ll get one completed broadside.

 

I will try.  We shall see.  

Edited June 30, 2021 by Hubac's Historian

[kirill4]

Good day Marc!

It looks very good! Nice job done!

[yancovitch]

gads, you must be using fiber optic strands for paint brushes......you inspire me to learn how to develop more patience ...ha...at least in my next lifetime 😁

[druxey]

Even if not fully authentic, you've caught the spirit of the time!

[Blue Ensign]

A superb build with great research and attention to detail.

I can only dream of achieving such artistry in the decoration and paintwork, wonderful work.

 

B.E.

[yancovitch]

i couldn't even dream of it......in fact, i'm terrified of even thinking about it.😁...........

[Hubac's Historian]

Thank you guys so much for your kind compliments!

 

And, so, the elephant eating contest goes into full swing.  Fortunately, because I was such a good little brother, when we were kids, and I let my (now) superstar makeup artist sister use me as a hair and face model, my sister has agreed to let me borrow her airbrush and mini compressor that she sometimes uses to apply makeup.  One hand washes the other!

 

Buried, somewhere in the boxes from our move to Brooklyn, is my own Badger airbrush, but for the life of me - I can’t find it.  Anyway, it has been such a wonderful rediscovery of the magic of airbrushing.  There is simply no better way to paint broad, highly detailed surfaces.

 

Early returns on the forward bulwark pieces are looking very good, so far.  I was careful to mask off the monogram escutcheons - the crossed “L”s - because an undercoat of red would make the cobalt look dark and purplish - definitely not what I’m after.   I am also very pleased that I took the time, during the modification stage, to engrave plank lines between the main deck guns.

 

 

Without a doubt, it will always be the yellow ocher that is the most time consuming stage, but I have determined that a 2:1 ratio of paint to tap water is the perfect viscosity for even application with good coverage.  It still takes 2-3 applications, over a color like red, but that is far better than the 6-7 I was averaging before.

 

 

The most fiddly painting is the timberhead trim that I applied to box-in the timberheads.  It is exactly as tedious as painting a picket fence:

 

 

Eventually, the walnut ink wash will work its magic to lower the volume on these colors, while adding depth and dimension to the surface.

 

Whereas, in the past I cringed at the thought of traveling with these fragile, bigger parts that I already have invested a huge amount of time in - I have now acquiesced to the reality that that is the only way I will be able to jam-in the number of hours it will take to cross the finish line (of this build stage), by October.

 

Wish me luck!

[kirill4]

I wish 😄!!!