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Posted (edited)

Off to the weekend shipyard. Been racking my brains trying to figure out how best to simulate the metal bands around the top of the gunstocks and the anchors. Chuck Passaro used accent tape used in modeling. I tried that but the tape I have is simply too thick and I can’t seem to get the tape to on accurately. Black thread is an option like I used on the windlass, but these bits are much smaller, and the thread would stick out like a sore thumb. Finally decided I would try something ridiculous. Tamiya tape which, I use when painting, accepts back ink from a sharpie. It’s also the perfect thickness and is easy to trim to size and apply to the pieces. So...waaalaaa. Not a bad result. 

 

Also prepped the anchor stocks (or whatever they are) and have stained them. Will add the tape later. 

 

Some good progress. Tomorrow is painting day. :dancetl6:

 

 

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Another little tidbit for me to steal down the road Patrick.

 

Knew I was hanging around here for a reason.:D 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

Thanks, Lou!  In truth, every time I take a departure from Chuck’s practicum, I am doubting whether it will result in long term benefits versus what he recommended. I’m starting to realize that there is no one way to achieve your result. 

 

Damn the torpedoes!

 

:pirate41:

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

I agree Patrick. The only proof on long term reliability is unfortunately............ Long term! Virtually every build on this forum has not withstood that particular test. In the mean time your solution looks pretty good and if twenty years down the road it starts coming apart you happen to know someone who knows how to fit it!:D

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

I hate to be a nitpicker Patrick, but shouldn't the wooden stocks be at right angles to the flukes of the anchor or is you just don't have them glued in place yet?

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

Hi Lou!  

 

Thanks for nitpicking!  Good catch on my anchors. And yes...they are not glued yet. But laying them flat makes a better picture with my phone!  (Or at least that’s my excuse! 😁)

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted
3 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

 Or at least that’s my excuse!

Works for me. I only said something because if it was me I would come back tomorrow or next week and end up gluing them before i stopped to think why they were in that position! I do stuff like that constantly!:default_wallbash:

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok. Finally decided how to connect my plexiglass case to the cherry wood base. Firstly, as I’ve never drilled holes in plexiglass, I was a bit anxious. Secondly, once the holes are drilled, what screws do I use.  Finally decided to get some brass nuts (#6, 3/4”) and some inserts.  Drilled to holes and sunk in the inserts. Voila.  It’s not glamorous...but it IS stable...and symmetrical. 

 

I can always create a new base/case...but I realized I had some paralysis by analysis...so finally decided to move forward and make progress since I was obviously over thinking. 

 

Pics later...beer now. :cheers:

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted
2 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

paralysis by analysis

Ah ha, now I know the name for my condition!

 

looking forward to the pictures 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Ok. Work got in the way but am back at it...albeit gradually. 

 

Pics show the inserts and screws for a solid attachment of the case to the base.  I realized I can always remake the base if I want...but it’s a good fit and solid. Can also create a cherry boundary to hide the nuts if I wish. Will tackle it later. 

 

Made the parrel arms for the boom and gaffs. Also prepped the main and fore topmasts. 

 

Completed the swivel gun stocks and guns. Turned out very nice!...no pics because the more I post the more I’m tempted to glue them in place!!!  :rolleyes:  I plan to put them on LAST.  I don’t trust my ability to not accidentally knock them off...and they will go on easily. 

 

Moving on...A162DC13-1A83-4056-A891-86EC5144DFE4.jpeg.7318d8e54e2d0873b2f3e5e29a971aa6.jpeg9DD73FF3-231E-4D13-A6B0-A4EA09F5CB97.jpeg.cc6b6925ee16b41e4f2a93847e1d454e.jpeg86C91B81-49BB-43CE-873D-14C7FFF36485.jpeg.586539a205014f5718954c9542b5e388.jpeg7D74FEC0-2693-4F42-9087-573EEAF2D116.jpeg.874a8c16b19349ccf6d17360d57b6a1b.jpeg880D703B-710D-4684-B091-9088FEDB9B47.jpeg.4d8eb50935576d9f730ffd5b1db83fff.jpeg2CF370DB-9E2F-4EA2-8E03-83A2F8EAA732.jpeg.0dba87478a3f0fb57456ff721ea53dc1.jpeg

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted (edited)

The tape on the base is there to make it easy to align the mounted ship in the correct orientation so I can slip the screws in without difficulty. Tried it. Works like a charm. Simple is good. :dancetl6:

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Ok!!!  Made my own path to the bibs and cross trees. Used the kit blocks for lower part but glad I made the mast caps myself. 

 

Nice result. Will paint tomorrow!!!

 

Moving on!

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted (edited)

Sunday shipyard saw me ignoring the trestle trees and jumping on shaping the last of my ‘sticks’, namely the gaffs and main boom, and taking a swipe at the mast hoops. 

 

Followed Chuck’s advice on the mast hoops. Manila folder trimmed to 1 mm thick strips. When I trimmed with a razor or scissors they tended to twist. After some practice, could trim them off without having them curl up. Not certain if that matters. Next thing was a ‘larger dowel to shape the hoops. The smallest I had was still too big. So adapted using Tamiya tape around a dowel with same diameter as the masts. Worked like a charm. Using carpenters glue and NOT CA glue. Seems to work much better. Stained the strips in Golden Oak stain.  Will post pics of the hoops later after the stain dries. 

 

Got the fore and main gaffs started and finally got the main boom on a decent track. 

 

Chuck painted his fore and main gaffs black...seriously thinking whether to follow this...the gaffs after they are stained might be complimentary to the main boom. Jury is out on this one....

 

Moving on!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Patrick, could you please give a brief description of the method you are using to add photos to your post? If you are using the MSW photo uploader, it should be allowing you to post images wherever you like in your post by clicking the "+" sign in the lower left corner of any uploaded photo.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, DS Børøysund

Posted (edited)

Well...I type my content.  Then go to upload photos. And click the pics (iPad) in photos I want to upload. But the chronology in my iPad is not the chronology I end up with in the post. 

 

How do I post content, then add a photo.  Then post more content, then add another photo?  I’d like to post photos as I explain in my blog...but I only know how to post them all in one big dump at the end of a post. 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

It may be different on an Ipad but on my computer I write all the text I want to use then upload all the pictures I want to include. They end up as thumbnails at the bottom of the page. Then I place the cursor where I want the picture to be inserted and hit the '+' button on the bottom left of the thumbnail. That picture appears in the main text where I indicated and I move the cursor to the next location in the text and do the same for the next picture. Rinse and repeat until done. I suppose you could also type your text, hit 'enter,' click the plus symbol on the thumbnail, hit 'enter' again and continue with more text. So forth and so on.

 

Hope that is understandable.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted (edited)

Well, I’ll give the ol’ college try!!!

 

Got the mast hoops stained, formed, and ready for when I step the masts. 

 

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Good progress...but I’m getting used to making spares just in case. You can see how well the Golden Oak darkened the manila folder paper. It saturated it very quickly and dried just as fast. 

 

1FF9B7BA-9D1B-4B9B-B203-C55C1A18F51A.jpeg.cb69badbafae1b45d5ae6358db18b035.jpeg

 

Moving on!!!

Edited by Overworked724

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Glad you worked it out. I had the same problems when I first started. Now if I could only do a descent build and take reasonable pictures I would have it together. 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted (edited)

Worked a bit on the main boom this evening. Got the chocks for main sheet and foot ropes made. They are tiny...but easy to make.

 

EE6BDA4A-30E5-42AC-B4AB-B04FF912B076.jpeg.4ba9c07d6a44780721ad89f5601bd413.jpeg499069CD-2AD2-4BFF-AA91-2CBD328ABB0F.jpeg.f0665c457e1207e6690ba5f73702261a.jpeg

 

Drilled in the sheaves. And stained.

 

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Painted my cleats black, and have my tape (simulated iron banding) and eye bolts ready. Should be able to finish the boom tomorrow. 

 

Moving on!

 

Edited by Overworked724

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Finishing up the main boom. Surprised at how well those beads I got at JoAnn fabrics finished the look!!

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The cleats I got from Syren (Chuck’s company). I tried making my own cleats but it’s a skill. Preferred to have them look good and they were cheap. Laser cut parts, shaped with sanding then painted. Used wood glue to apply to stained boom. 

 

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Only thing left is the metal bands which I’ll put on this evening. Then it’s on to the next set of sticks!!!

 

Moving on...:dancetl6:

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Ok. Main boom is done. The parrels using black beads was awesome idea (whoever’s it was!). The metal bands turned out stellar using my Tamiya/Sharpie/Razorblade technique. 😁

 

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One thing to note is that I used black wire for holding parrels between the jaws of the yolk. Easy to crimp once it’s on the mast. 

 

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Moving on to the next set of sticks!

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted (edited)

Time to vent a bit.  The main and fore mast have a fixture above the cleats near their base. The main mast has a 'boom rest' on the plans.  As Chuck's practicum references, the ship plans call for a wrap around boom rest for the main mast, and they omit any such feature on the fore mast.  Chuck improvised and put in a chuck (pardon the pun) on the foremast to hold up the mast hoops.  On the main mast, he put a 1/2 boom rest which serves the same purpose, plus also holding up the ship's main boom.  Both features point aft (to the back of the ship). 

 

Making the chuck on the fore mast is not a problem.  Easy enough to make.  It's the boom rest on the main mast which is a bit of a problem.  I have basswood sheets, and trying to carve out a semi-decent 1/2 (or whole for that matter) circle which wrap around the mast is quite difficult for me.  Not certain how best to accomplish this task, as I have tried a number of ways - never to a satisfactory result.  (often accompanied by a lot of swearing)

 

So...this is the main issue that has held up my progress on the masts.  Something as stupid and inconsequential as a simple 1/2 circle 'boom rest'.  Ok...yes...I have made some 'passable' boom rests.  Am I happy with them?...No.  I think I have a solution, but have not yet attempted.  We shall see.

 

But, I had the same issue of hand making my open and closed heart collars as Chuck described in his practicum.  I tried making the collars but my results were...um...substandard.  Since I required these little bits to finish up 'pre-rigging' my bowsprit, I got similarly  stalled until I could get them made.  I am sure it would be a useful skill.  Perhaps I am simply using the wrong tools/wood/technique to get to the final 'acceptable' end result.  But in the interim - I want to move forward with my model!!!  And. since Model Shipways omitted inclusion of these vital parts of the kit - I opted to try ordering some of appropriate size.  (Believe me - the relief of ordering the parts for a few buck vs. creating a half-assed approximation of those tiny pieces was indescribable...cheers to me for problem solved!) 

 

OK....my vent is over...moving on.

:cheers:

 

 

Edited by Overworked724

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Finally got the technique for making semi-decent closed-heart collars!  These things are TINY!  3mm on a side is about the limit of my capability. 

 

Started with larger stock stock to get the technique down. 

 

D141501A-280D-4EAA-BE40-A3A06F69B736.jpeg.bfb688d4ba0b583ecc6a61289227289a.jpeg

Then went to smaller stock wood strip to try to repeat at a smaller scale.  Proof is in the pudding. 😎 

 

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Moving on to the open heart collars!  

 

:champagne-2:

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Well...I can say I can now create an open heart collar from a basswood strip. Wondering if I should put that on my resume!  

 

These are 5mm on a side...although Chuck’s were 4mm, I’ll call this a success and move on!!!  They came out fairly decent, too. 

 

:champagne-popping-smiley-emotic

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----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

Posted

Your resume is certainly growing by leaps and bounds Patrick. Impressive work.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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