Jump to content

Proxxon Bench Circular Saw KS115


Recommended Posts

I bought a used Proxxon Bench Circular Saw KS115, and it works great. But there is one problem with it. When I try to set the fence it tries to cant in at an angle to the blade.  

My thinking is, if the adjustment screw was ground to a center this wouldn't happen. But the way it is made that can't happen. The only way I can think of to fix this is to buy a machine screw and and cut the head off and chuck it up in a drill motor or better yet a lath and dress the end up. Then make a knob for it.

 

Can anyone think of a better solution? 

Photo the the type saw:

41Vw6wF0dJL.jpg.882815529b6d23a83de14b3cadce338f.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just snuck out to the workshop and took a look at mine.  I don't seem to have the problem you're asking about.
However ...

Move the fence all the way over to the left and take it off.  Check that there's no dirt on the surface (arrowed) where it comes into contact with the front lip of the aluminium table.  Then check that the lip itself is clean and undamaged.

Don't for heaven's sake grind the adjustment screw to a point!  If you do, it'll make little pits in the aluminium every time you adjust it, so it'll become impossible to fix it to an accurate dimension.
If you really do need to make an adjustment, I'd suggest you take a small file and remove a minute amount of the arrowed surface, at the end that's furthest away from the sawblade when it's fitted in place.DSCN0256r2.thumb.jpg.043161c92e5959ec3edef4031a496ce3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brian,

You are "probablyright". Dressing the screw to a point would screw it up for good.

I just now checked to see if there was any debris on any of the surface you mentioned. There was none.

The variance isn't consistent. I did clean the fence and table with no effect. But I did notice pits where the screw made contact with the table. So I used a sanding block and to smooth out the pits.

 

Now the variance is about 0.5mm across the full length of the fence. I guess for a $50.00 saw, what can one expect. 

Thanks for putting me on the right track.

RussR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, druxey said:

I bought this saw before the Byrnes' saw came on the market. The original fence is problematic. However, fitted with an Accurizer II fence, the problem is solved.

druxey,

This would probably solve the problem. With shipping and all, this would cost 150% of what I paid for the saw. 

At this point I think I can live with 0.5mm tolarance. 

Thanks for your input. It is much appreciated.

RussR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Byrnes saw has an anchor at he distal end of the fence.

With a threaded rod and fittings, you might think about adding to the length and

having an anchor at the other end.  The face that the stock rides along does not need to, should not,

would produce a kickback problem, if it were longer.   But a threaded rod extender should allow the fence

to be anchored at the back of the table.  Aligning the fence with each position is a pain,  but the cost for 

a lower quality tool is your time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty sure it's a design fault I have had this Saw for several years,and also have two fences. I've set a gap with feeler gauges,tightened down on either fence and couldn't remove the feeler gauges without difficulty. It's obviously "toeing in"and this causes binding and burning sometimes when cutting pear or box. Solved my problem,bought it's big brother :)

 

Dave :dancetl6: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same as Dave, the best way to fix KS115 problems is to buy Proxxon FET and advise everybody to do the same. It is a classical example of spending money on a cheaper tool, ending up spending more money on a proper tool. KS115 is, honestly, a junk :( (I had it, upgraded to FET and never looked back).

It is hard to use the table saw if you can't event adjust the blade height, and the precision is super bad (fence alignment, miter gage, etc). You also can't make any sleds for this saw, since there is only one miter channel instead of two. Its real price should be around $30, there are "saws" in this range on AliExpress and Harbour Freight. But they are asking $130 for it 😳

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Mike Y said:

Same as Dave, the best way to fix KS115 problems is to buy Proxxon FET and advise everybody to do the same. It is a classical example of spending money on a cheaper tool, ending up spending more money on a proper tool. KS115 is, honestly, a junk :( (I had it, upgraded to FET and never looked back).

It is hard to use the table saw if you can't event adjust the blade height, and the precision is super bad (fence alignment, miter gage, etc). You also can't make any sleds for this saw, since there is only one miter channel instead of two. Its real price should be around $30, there are "saws" in this range on AliExpress and Harbour Freight. But they are asking $130 for it 😳

This would be great it one had unlimited space and unlimited funds.

For me a KS115 is a big upgrade from a miter box and a hobby saw. 

 

Thanks for the comment.

RussR

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Retired mine some time back. it is now fitted with a blade suitable for metal, rough cutting at that, and lives under my bench waiting for the rare occasions that I cut metal.

I fell foul of the buying cheap and regretting it. lesson learned. I now have a Byrnes.

Mike.

Edited by mikeaidanh
missed caps
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, bought mine at a time, when the FET was not dreamt of and I had not knowledge off or access to the US american market - that is, if the Byrnes products actually existed at the beginning of the 1990s. At that time I wouldn't have been able to afford the FET and it is considerably bigger than the KS115

 

This fence-alignment problem is partly a design issue and partly due to manufacturing tolerances. Early on I made a fence-extension from extruded aluminium channel that can be clamped to the other end of the table.

 

I also screwed down onto the saw table a thin sheet of aluminium to reduce the gab between the blade and the table.

 

I don't do that much of sawing, so I can live with it (more or less).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...