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HMS VICTORY by Jerry - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72 - 1805 version


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Good morning, Kevin...

 

Thanks so much for taking the time to write to me.  I also sincerely appreciate the drawing you attached.  I wish the manual would have shown the detail that your dfrawing does but I found nothing to guide me in this stage.  Unfortunately, it looks like I'll have to be very careful when working around,  and with the deadeyes because all of the strops are installed and the deadeyes are all mounted in the channels and the entire assembly is ready for painting.  I can't envision removing all the deadeye/strops and starting over. I  notice that others installed the strops as I have and that their later stages involving the strops went ok.  I hope it will go fine for me too.  Again, I want you to know that I am grateful for your advise.  Have a great day,

Jerry

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Good morning Lawrence...

I believe I understand what you are saying regarding the strops, deadeyes, etc.  So now we know another difference in the two kits.  Kevin wrote to me about the lugs that are on the strops and that both lugs should be inside the slot in the channel.  Unfortunately all of the strops are glued in place and I don't intend to remove them.  I'll be very careful when attacking the chain plates and when rigging as to not pull any of the strops out of their position.  Today it's painting the channels (and all the strops and deadeyes) and the chainplates and then attaching the chainplates.  Hope you have a terrific day,

Jerry

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Hello Jerry

The way jotika tell you to fit the strops is on plan 12, this is around the time that you are doing the ratlines !!!! A long time in the future as you can see, and there in my option is nothing to avoid pull out apart from the glue , and not safe as the gap is wide open. Lawrence's strops are a far better idea in my opinion. DAVID

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lol - this is not the first conversation wrt these strops, personally i never had a problem fitting them, just like everything else, it takes a little time and patience, i found drilling a 0.5mm hole into the side of the recess allowed the pins to be put into position prior to twisting the whole unit 90 degs, this info was passed to me in the same way, as to avoid the potential  rip out, 

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Hello David. 

Thanks for taking the time to give me your opinion on the strops.  Yes, I remember looking at sheet 12 to seee the layout of the chain plates.  It is here where the correct rotation of the dead eyes is shown.   I may be wrong but I believe that since one of the strop lugs is glued to the bottom of the channel it will act as resistance to the force of the shroud and therefore have less of a chance of pulling out.  I also believe that the facing strip on the channel will help keep everything in place.  As you know the instructions for this stage, provided by Jotika, are shabby at best.  Thank goodness for all the help from you and the other logs. I hope everything will work out.  And thanks again for your valued opinion which I always look forward to.

Jerry

Edited by Jerry
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Hi Kevin..

I am very appreciative of your reply but I must admit I don't understand what you mean.  To be specific, I don't know what you mean by "drilling a hole into the side of the recess."  Do you mean drilling a hole into the hull for the pin holding down the chain plate?  And I don't understand the part of " twisting 90 degrees."    May i trouble you to explain that to me?  Much obliged.

Jerry

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sorry i didnt make my self clear

the recess where the dead eye strop fits in the channel , i driiled a hole in this recress at the side  so that the two lugs to which we were referring to have a home, they dont fit very well otherwise hence they hang out the bottom of the channel, it just gives them enough room to be held securly

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Thanks, Kevin...  I believe I got it now.  I'm going ahead with the face covering strip and then I'll paint the lot.  Thanks so much for taking the time to write to me and have a wonderful evening.

Jerry

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Hello jerry

I may be wrong. But I think the way of fitting the deadeyes Kevin said may have been to widen the slots so the strop laid in, then drilling a hole to fit a pin in the gap left My idea is much the same but avoids widening the gap completely. The first photo shows the way I did mine, and second shows the fitting of pins. I hope all is going well DAVID

,

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Hello David...

 

You are so nice to be concerned with my lousy job as far as the strops go. 

 

When I first saw your pictures of the channels a couple of days ago it's apparent that I misread them.  These new photos you just sent are so clear and show perfectly the position of the lugs of the strops inside the slot of the channel.  I remember you telling me that you cut a diagonal in order to fit these strop lugs.  When I saw the photos of this a couple of days ago, the bottom lug looked to me to be outside the channel slot and that's the way I did mine.  The closeup picture today shows clearly that both lugs are inside the slot.  Unfortunately I'm going to have to live with the channels the way I did them and hope that nothing goes wrong.  In fact, I hope that the bottom lug, being outside the channel, will help keep the strop in the channel when pressured by the shrouds.  The facing strip has been glued on and I'm about to paint the channel/strop/deadeye assembly black.  I hope you understand that I don't mean to be obstinate but my misreading of the situation has caused the current state of being.  I hope you will continue to help me when I need it and that your communication is always greatly appreciated.

 

Best,

Jerry

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Hello Lawrence..

You are real nice to be worried for me about the strops, etc.  As mentioned before I have decided to proceed with my build with the channel assembly as I made it.  I made sure that all the strop/deadeye pieces are very secure and will be very careful when I finally get to the shroud job  (a long way off)  to be extra careful in handling everyting and that nothing is pulled out of position.  Right now I'm trying to decide if I should add the sail boom bracket and support pieces to the channel assembly before I go further.  Even though the manual calls for them to be added to the channels before painting the channels I don't see them in any of the other's log photos.  I need to ask David about this.  Have a terrific evening and know that I am much obliged to your feelings in my regard.  Take care my friend..

Jerry

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Good evening, Lawrence.

 

You are so nice to think about my situation (problem) with Victory.  Actually, as far as I'm concerned, it should be no problem at all.  But later about this.

 

So you are spending lots of time I see erecting Christmas lights around your house and property.  It's so beautiful to be able to drive around the area and see how some people have decorated their homes.  It's actually mind boggling what some habitants do to their property.  You are proof about the care some people take when decorating their property.  I have always thought that a lot of time is spent putting up these decoations and from what you say, that's the proof I'm talking about.  I hope i don't seem like Scrooge but it must also cost a pretty penny to accomplish this feat.  No more of that for us...My age makes it difficult to climb ladders, porch railings, etc.  We celebrate very simply these days, a small decorated tree perchjed on our piano with a few gifts underneath.  By the way, don't forget pictures when the decorations are completed.

 

Now, back to my Victory.  Dave gave me a good hint before I started to glue in the strops.  He mentioned how to handle the strop lugs and unfortunately, I misread him and the picture he sent me.  In the first photos of his work I saw, it looked like the lower strop lug was beneath the channel so I purposely set all my strops this way.  I figured the lug, hooked around the bottom of the channel would keep it from coming out from any pressure caused by the rigging.  Well,, then.... you know what hit the fan.  It was like my log was bombed from all directions...that I should have kept both lugs in the channel slot...TOO LATE...Everything is glued to the channels and I will live with it.  I have painted all the channels and strops and deadeyes black and just finished putting a metal prime coat of paint on all of the chainplates.  They have not been removed from the brass sheet and won't be until I paint them black.  Then I plan to attach all the chain plates to the strops and then attach the channels to the hul by drilling small holes and pinning theml.  Somebody, stop me pease, if I'm all wrong.

 

I was very happy to hear from you this evening as I needed some friendly words and that all is well.

 

Thank you for your repeated kindness.

Jerry

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hello Jerry, good morning

the dead eyes, both pins need to be in the channel, otherwise you stand a good chance of ripping them out, when they come under some pressure of being attached with the chain plates, or by the shrouds

 

As pulling out is a horrible scenario I also use a blob of 2 pack epoxy to fill the gap, never can be too careful.

 

Nick

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Good morning, Nick..

Thank you so much for taking the time to write to me with your valid thought on the channel, slot, deadeye, etc.  I appreciate your advise and using the epoxy seems like an excellent idea.  I agree that any pulling out of these deadeye would be a horrible experience so since that I didn't build the assembly that way, I have taken extra caution by double gluing the strops, etc.  I can only hope that everything goes OK from hereon in as I'm about to attach the channels with the chain plates to the hull.  This is David's method, (Shipyard Sid) and I'll be keeping my fingers crossed.  Have a great day and again many thanks for your valued opinion.

Jerry

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Good morning, Lawrence..

My, you're up early.  I appreciate your thoughts on the chain plates or chainwale clips as you have written.  I have taken every precaution i could, considering that I only have one strop lug in the channel slot.  One channel with all the chainplates is now attached to the starboard side of the hull I have tried to simulate decent tension on the deadeyes and all seems OK.  Hopefully, down the road, when I get to the shrouds,  all will stay well.  Have a great day and get some sleep.

Jerry

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Good evening everyone.

Looks like as good a time as any to post my progress with Victory.  The last couple of days have incurred several interruptions to my building so the way I see it, I'm lucky to to get done what I have at a nice slow pace.  I'm delighted that the mounting of the channels and chain plates has gone well so far.  I have completed the starboard side of the hull and will look forward to working on the port side at the next work session.  Oh yeah, I'm including a picture of my

only sailing rig.  My other hobby is racing radio control sailboats.  The one pictured is called a Micro Magic, one of the smallest boats sailed in competition.  With building Victory, it's hard to keep my committed schedule of racing but so far so good.  The only problem is I have to learn to sail better so I can finish better than next to last and last. I need a good tutor.  Have a great weekend everyone and thanks for putting up with my rantings.

Jerry

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Edited by Jerry
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Hi Lawrence,

 

Thanks for the shout out...I saw your log so I knew about the gun port problem.  Nice thing to do by making the jigs.  I have to think about doing the same thing because the channels and chain plates will be finished in a day or two and the next things are the gun ports.  You sure jump around a lot when building.That would drive me nuts because surely I would forget to go back and do what i skipped.  Have a great Sunday and keep up the great work.

Jerry

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Hey Jerry, you're Vic looks great.

 

I'm curious about the long gun port patterns used on the model. Did you have to glue those down a couple of bulkheads at a time to keep the glue from drying before the whole thing was secure?

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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Hi Jeff,

 

Thanks for checking my log.  I'm not sure if I unerstand your question but if I think it is what i think it is....I used Elmers White glue to glue the gun port patterns to the bulkheads as it gave me plenty of time to pin the entire length of the pattern before it set.  In fact, I used Elmers glue for building most of the hull.  I used CA cement, however on some of the strip planking whenever I wanted to hold down a strip while I bent it around a curve in the hull.  But, as I said, for the most part I used Elmers Glue on the basic structure.  I used CA to cement the copper tiles.  I hope this answers your question.  If not try me again.  Best regards,

Jerry

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Thanks Jerry. That answers my question. It looks like you might need two sets of hands to attach one of those patterns.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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Good morning, Lawrence.  Thank you so much for your words of encouragement.  I must have been in a puzzled mood when I wrote what I did in David's log.  Actually most of it was tongue in cheek and I'm really excited about progressing toward the rigging aspect of this build.  At this time all of he channels are fitted and  I'm attaching the chain plates to the port side of the hull.  I hope to have this completed in a day or two and then it's on to the gun port lids.  I have followed the manual step by step although I have noticed that most others jump around either to avoid damage or for other reasons.  I wish you a very happy day and congratulate you on the progress you are making.

Jerry

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Thanks, Lawrence but today has medical interruptions.  Doctor appointments, etc.  I'm sure I'll be lucky to find a couple of hours later in the day.  Take care,

Jerry

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Greetings Jerry

Sorry it looks like I have not been checking your log for a few days. Well it's looking really good, and those chainplates and deadeyes are splendid. And you are now heading off to the gunport lids, and a nice little project in its self. Keep up the excellent work and enjoy it Jerry. DAVID

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Hello David,

I was wondering where you were,  I thought that maybe you were so entangled in the rigging that you couldn't escape to do anything else. But i'm very glad to hear from you and hope all is well.  Thank you for your encouraging words.  I'm sure you now that I appreciate them a lot.  I do have one problem however which I wish I'd noticed before the channels went on.  Looks like Admiral Nelson is going to put the kibosh on the nex to last cannon on the port side quarter deck.  For some reason this gun is pointed directly at a deadeye so I will try and raise it so as not to blow the smithereens out of some of the rigging if it's ever fired.  I was very careful with my measurements so apparently I wasn't careful enough.  Here's a looksee.

 

Jerry

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Jerry -

 

As opposed to reconfiguring the cannon and gunport, could you shift the deadeye to either side of the gunport?  Would be asymmetrical, but would resolve the line-of-fire conflict.

Wayne

Neither should a ship rely on one small anchor, nor should life rest on a single hope.
Epictetus

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David...

 

Yep the poor thing looks very pathetic.  But Wayne( trippwj) made a suggestion which will work..See below and many thanks again.

Jerry

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