Alert Class Tug by fnkershner - 3D printed - 1:35 scale

[fnkershner]

I have a question - What do you use to mask off when painting? I find that painter's tape does not leave a clean line. 

 

Update - The problem above is resolved and Conor (my grandson) spent a day sanding & priming. We have now finished painting one color. And today begins masking and the rest of the painting. The goal is to complete the painting this week. Tomorrow I will be in the lab wiring the pilot house.

[Jack12477]

I use Tamiya brand masking tape

[kurtvd19]

Floyd:

Tamiya tape is good.  I had been using 3M Fine Line tape - an automotive painting tape that is available at a lot of auto parts stores - as it leaves a very nice line and it doesn't lift underlying paint and it is very similar to the Tamiya stuff.  However I recently started using FBS K-UTG Gold Crepe Masking Tape from Coast Airbrush (link below) as it out performs the 3M Fine Line and Tamiya tapes - in my opinion.  It's not expensive and it is able to follow a curved line a bit better than the 3M tape.

 

One tip for masking between colors.  When masking off to do the next color burnish the tape down for good contact and then lightly spray the edge of the tape on the edge where the next color is to go with the underlying first color.  This way, if anything is going to creep under the tape it will be the exact color of the first paint.  Let it dry and then paint the second color.  remove the tape and you will have a very clean straight edge w/o any creep of the 2nd color over the first.  Don't spay against the tape edge either with the first color or the second so paint doesn't build up against the tape's edge.  Try to spray at a right angle to the surface of the tape to minimize buildup.  And when removing the masking tape pull it back over itself rather than straight up to minimize the risk of lifting the underlying paint - per the sketch.

http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FBS_K-UTG_Gold_Crepe_Masking_Tape

[fnkershner]

Kurt - I want to thank you for your detailed info. Both about airbrush and tape. So I want to ask your help again. We have hit an impasse with the Badger 150. No matter what we do we cannot get sufficient airflow. We have completely disassembled the nozzle, the needle and the air valve. We have soaked everything in Hot water, Rubbing Alcohol, Airbrush thinner, & Windex. I Have the brush set you have pictured and we have scrubbed everything. We have even swapped many of the parts. We get air but not enough thru the brush.  

[thibaultron]

Do you have a filter or water trap in the system? If so, it might be clogged. Do you get adequate flow through a different brush? Have you used this airbrush before? How big an area are you trying to cover?

 

If you are trying to cover a large area, an external airbrush would be better. Internal mix brushes are made for detail work.

[kurtvd19]

Floyd:

What pressure do you have from the compressor?  If the brush blows air before connecting to the paint jar that tells you the air works - but you must have adequate pressure.  15-20 psi should be adequate.

I don't remember what paint you are using.  Is it thinned properly? 

Properly thinned paint with adequate air pressure should mean you get paint onto the model.  Let me know what paint you are using and how much you are thinning it and what your air pressure is.

It might need checking/repair by Badger - it will cost you shipping charges only unless you did internal damage that would require a new body.  But let's try to solve your problem before resorting to going to the shop.

 

Ron is right that you might want to use a different brush for doing the hull and larger surfaces.  The link below to the Badger 350 is the best price you will see for this neat little single action brush.  It's good enough that I used it for many years as my only brush and still use it today for larger surfaces.  It is capable of laying down an award winning paint job.  It will work much better for larger surfaces than the 150 which isn't meant for doing a model the size you are doing.

 

https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/350-1m-single-action-medium-head-airbrush

[thibaultron]

I understand Badger also has great customer service, give them a call.

[fnkershner]

Ok let me try to answer all of your questions - Paint - I am using 2 different paints. Air Vallejo, I usually don't thin this one. I also bought a kit thru Amazon from Createx. it is called Wicked Colors. This one comes with its own thinner and we do use that. And I have 2 Badger 150s. And I have had issues with both. I am just 2 colors away from completing the whole project. And I have used up most of my paint. I have the compressor set at 35 psi. This is what the booklet from badger suggests. Yes there is a water trap on the compressor, and I have cleared it.

[capnharv2]

Floyd,

Are either one my old Badger 150? And are you using the compressor that I gave you?

 

I added an aftermarket water trap and pressure gauge (I think from Micro-mark) I played with pressures from 15-50psi (the compressor maxed out at 60psi). I never seemed to put out enough pressure/flow. Compared to the MAS G23 I have now (my Iwata knock-off) the compressor (that came with it) puts out a lot more air than the compressor that came with my 150.

 

Which brings up another question-have you tried attaching it to a high volume compressor (like a shop compressor) and dialed the pressure down to 15-20psi? My gut (the part that's not sick) tells me the problem lies not in the airbrush, but in the available pressure/volume.

 

And, as Kurt noted, the Badger 150 is probably too small (even with a large needle) to cover lots of area at one time.

 

Anyway, a few thoughts from the sickie.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[fnkershner]

Harvey! I am sorry that you are sick. I was hoping to see you at the PSSM meeting on Saturday. The tug will be there in all its glory. And the answer to your question is Yes and No. Yes one of the Badger 150s is yours and no I am not using your compressor. Your compressor has been donated for charity.  

I understand the comments about the 150 not intended for such a large project. And I will remember that in the future. Both 150s came to me at a wonderful price - Free! And as mentioned I am very close to done with this project. Hopefully I will get enough funds out of this to buy a gravity fed solution.

 

On the Tug I have all of the yellow and white painted. I also have 1 coat of the bottom painted. All that remains is the 2nd coat and the black. And of course like many other parts of this project. I have never used an Air brush before. I have arranged to meet with someone who has today and walk thru all of this with them. I expect that by the end of today I will have at least 1 working air brush.

[kurtvd19]

2 hours ago, fnkershner said:

I have arranged to meet with someone who has today and walk thru all of this with them. I expect that by the end of today I will have at least 1 working air brush.

Sounds like a plan.  Let us know if you solve the problem.

Kurt

[kurtvd19]

4 hours ago, fnkershner said:

Hopefully I will get enough funds out of this to buy a gravity fed solution.

Floyd:

Gravity feed is great but meant for detail painting.  If the size of the tug is larger than your usual paint jobs then check out the Badger 360.  It's a double action brush that works as both a gravity feed and as a siphon feed.  This is possible due to the front end of the brush being able to rotate 360 degrees.  As a gravity feed the paint is put into the color cup with it facing up (duh..) and detail painting can be done w/o having the paint bottle attached to the airbrush.   For larger areas or multiple parts where you want more paint the airbrush head is rotated so the color cup points downward and the paint bottle with adapter cap is inserted into the color cup.

The 360 is my everyday brush.  The 360 is very versatile and serves as two airbrushes in one package.  I do use the 350 I mentioned the other day for large areas and have several other brushes for specialized work, but the 360 is what I recommend to those wanting one airbrush that will do detail and general coverage.

Kurt

https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/360-1-universal-basic-set

 

 

 

 

 

[fnkershner]

Ok small update. As mentioned I met today with 2 friends to help me with both of the airbrushes. We were able to get proper airflow from one. but nothing thru the siphon of either one. And when we used the metal cup to test we got bubbles without touching the needle. We also had a side air leek from one of the brushes. So the next step is to talk to Badger. Unfortunately their Help desk closes at 3:00 PM Central time. Lately I have not reached home before 2:00 PM Pacific time. I think I can make this happen on Friday. I had hoped to finish painting this week, but the paint I ordered has not arrived. So even if the airbrushes were working I still could not paint. 

[druxey]

Did you check the air hoses and connectors for leakage?

[fnkershner]

yes & yes - no problems from compressor to brush. 

[kurtvd19]

Floyd:

Go ahead and try Badger on Friday afternoon but being good Friday they may close early or not be open.  But if Jesus (that is their repair techs name - not a play on Good Friday) is working he will get to the bottom of it.

Bubbles mean you have to tighten up the fittings - but they are delicate.  Use some beeswax (a staple in all airbrush users tools) on the threads of the air regulator and nozzles pieces up front.  As shown in the boxed area to the left side of the drawing there are three parts with threads that can use the beeswax.  Also, make sure the tiny little tip (50-0391, 2 or 3) is in place.  This gets lost by many.

Be sure the needle moves freely and that it is fully forward - do not force it as the tip can split or deform if force is used.

Try turning the airbrush upside down and use an eyedropper or pipette to drop some water into the siphon tube connection and spray.  It should spray just fine if the internals are ok.  If it doesn't spray then I am stumped. 

Kurt

 

[thibaultron]

Try water in the bottle instead of paint. Water is what they use at Badger to test every airbrush, before shipping. If it will not even spray water, there is something very wrong with it.

[capnharv2]

Kurt,

 

Your parts drawing of the 150 shows an angled slot in the 50-035 body below part# 50-042 back lever (the curved piece). My old 150 had no such slot, other than the longitudinal one. It made it a real pain to re-assemble.

 

My question is-was that angled slot put in at a later time (mine is a 1980's vintage), did something miss QC before shipment, or did I get a cheap rip off??

 

Floyd has my old airbrush now. I bought a cheap Iwata knock off, but it does the job for now.

 

Thanks!

 

Harvey

 

[kurtvd19]

Harvey:

Yes it was added later so one dooesn't have to insert the "T" portion of the back lever and then turn it 90 degrees.  Something like that would never get past QC at Badger.

 

Floyd;

Ron's right - every airbrush gets water shot through it as a test before it's passed as OK. 

I'm not sure if they still do it but the Sotar 20-20 airbrush even had a certificate that was signed by the 3 testers.

Kurt

 

[thibaultron]

For those who might be interested

 

 

[kurtvd19]

Floyd:

I think Badger is closed today.  I was copied in an email by Jesus - their repair tech - and I don't think he sent it from work.  But give it a try if they are closed just call on Monday.

Kurt

[thibaultron]

Found this link on home 3D printing. he has 3 videos in the play list.

 

 

[fnkershner]

Kurt - I hate it when you are right. I called Badger and got an answering machine. I left a message. So I am now a proud owner of an Iwata HP-CR. And now I understand what you guys are saying about gravity fed. that cup is pretty small for what I am doing.

 

I also found a local supplier for the paint I am using, but not until after I had placed a $50 order with Amazon. At any rate the Yellow is done. There will be pictures today.

 

Ron - This is a pretty good video. He covers all the important topics. Like him I have access to an Ender 3, but unlike him I can't use it. Most of my parts are too large. I also use a commercial slicer. I would like to get some of our instructors to view this just so they make sure they cover all the details.

Edited April 20, 2019 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Ok I promised Pictures so here goes -

 

PS I am finding a Gravity fed air brush a bit of a pain when you have as much painting to do as I do.

 

 

[fnkershner]

Update - For the barge I have almost completely abandoned 3D printing. And I am so much happier. In 3 Days we have accomplished more than we did in 6 weeks on the tug. We built 6 cross section frames. Cut out the deck from 1/8" Plywood, and attached the frames with glue and brads. We are now ready to skin the bottom and create the bulkheads for the stern & the bow. Today I will cut the sides but not attach them. We need to do some wiring first. All of the deck furniture will be 3D printed.

 

For those who are familiar with Fusion 360. There is a free add-on called Slicer. It will slice any solid model to create bulkheads all you need to do is decide which way to slice, the thickness of your bulkheads, and the number of slices. It looks to me as it was custom made for Ship Modeling. You could take the plans for any vessel and create the keel former and bulkheads just as you would for any kit. The software will create the shapes and lay them out on a sheet for the laser or CNC including the slots for the bulkheads. As soon as I have them running on the laser I will have pictures.

 

And just so I don't leave you hanging without pictures. The following pictures are for Kurt.

 

Kurt - I promised you info on a model sign that lights up with motion. The pictures are of the prototype. I will write the article you requested once I have a nicer looking base. It is a very simple solution. You etch the Acrylic with a laser or CNC and then you install in a base. The base has the sensor you see on the front and is hollow. In this case it holds the battery, 1 LED, & the sensor. The cost for everything is about $4. this box was cut on a laser using the common box program. 

[thibaultron]

Just a note on the sign. Never use RTV to mount the board like shown! The agent that sets normal RTV is an acidic compound, hence the vinegar smell, and will, over time, corrode that board.

 

When building water tight boxes for my RC ships, I used aquarium grade RTV, which uses a non corrosive action. Even then I would mount the components with screws, and use the RTV only as a thin seal for the removable cover, and let the RTV set for a week or so, before closing the box.

[fnkershner]

Ron - As mentioned this was just a Prototype. Essentially a throw away proof of concept. the idea is someone walks past your display case and the sign lights up. I would also suggest a different color of LED. We just used what we had handy.

[fnkershner]

By the way I assume RTV is also know as Glue Stick?

[lmagna]

No. Hot glue, (I am assuming that is what you are referring to rather than the glue sticks you use to glue paper in craft projects) is a different stuff and should have no affect on the circuit board. RTV is also called silicone glue by some people, normally comes in a squeeze tube, and is air drying. 

[fnkershner]

So Lou I must be dense RTV is Hot glue? We do use a lot of Hot glue in the lab.