HMS Victory by Rob S - Mamoli - 1/90th scale - first build

[Rob S]

17 minutes ago, Henke said:

I use Admiralty Paints and ordered an "Agamemnon" set from Cornwall Model Boats https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/HMS-Victory-Paint-Set-APS9014W.html#SID=339. They have acrylic paint sets adopted for Caldercraft so there is a kit for Caldercraft's Victory also, which is a bigger ship than your Mamoli kit. The kit I am thinking of contains 10 colors in 14 jars. I do not if it is worth the money + shipping from Europe to US but the paint is good and diluted it can also be air brushed (I have tried, it worked).

 

Regards

 

Henrik

Thank you Henrik; appreciate your help.  I’ll take a look.  A little extra paint on hand at the end of the day can‘t be too bad!

[Rob S]

18 hours ago, kjs said:

Hobby lobby will have virtually everything you need in reference to paints.  Thin them a little.  Don't spend a fortune on paints when you really don't have to.

 

Thank you!

[Rob S]

Sanding complete and lead gun ports filed down flush with the ship.  Transitioning now to the second set of planking.  However, I believe I’ll build a couple of gun carriages first to ensure they can be inserted to the right gun port on the quarter deck.  Also working to obtain the correct set of paints for the ship. Thanks to all who helped me with ideas for obtaining the necessary colors.

 

[Rob S]

Stopped by our local hobby shop for some paint shopping and although they had multiple paint suppliers and colors, I was unable to find the specific colors I was looking for.  I ended up purchasing four (4) sample acrylic colors via Ebay, including yellow ochre. I’ve got a red, black and cobalt blue coming as well. It was interesting to learn from the shop proprietor that due to the Covid pandemic there was a spike in customer’s buying paint sets for models that the paint suppliers have been unable to recover from, hence the reason many paint suppliers are out of key colors. 

 

I’ve also taken time to review the stock of my materials and it’s interesting that I have counted ten (10) short guns for the quarter deck, 28 longer guns for the middle/lower deck and then 57 heavier guns for the lower sets of gun ports.  Counting the two (2) carronades, that gives me 97 total guns which appears at first less than what the Victory carried at Trafalgar. I note there are 58 heavy gun ports vs. the 57 guns I have.  Same with the middle deck where there are 30 gun ports vs. just 28 guns.  I’ll need to do a closer inspection, but I may have a disparity with the hardware I have.

 

‘The devil’s in the details’ I’ve always heard and that’s especially true in modeling.  I’m now preparing to mark the water line for distinguishing where the copper starts. The instructions show 7.5cm from the bottom of the keel to the waterline leaving another 8.5cm from the waterline to the top of the midships decking. I’m using a variety of methods to make sure I mark appropriately. I’ve verified the ship ‘dock’ channels are 5mm and not lifting the boat up, giving me a shorter measurement. I plan to mark several points, flip the ship over and using a device called out in the instructions, mark the line from bow to stern and start ‘coppering’. Once I have the paint, I’ll prep a couple of cannons for fit checks as previously described above. 

 

 

 

 

[Rob S]

Thanks kjs - I’ll need to do something likewise if I don’t find the extra HW.  Bummer about Y.T.; he did fantastic work.  I didn’t know anything about any pirated gear/items - but I know the forum is strict about this.  I better do some homework there so that I don’t find myself on the wrong side of the law here.  I will be looking at your log to see how the copper planking went.  I can do monotony.  

 

OK, worked out my marking jig per the Mamoli instructions and am nearly done with marking the waterline.  I’ll use a more permanent marker once I’m satisfied with the pencil lines. Still doing some fine tuning of the hull filling/sanding.  

 

 

[GrandpaPhil]

I used Delta Ceramcoat Antique Gold for Ochre on my Victory.

[Emmet]

The Corel kit has no instructions for the water line.I guess I will figure it out as I go-maybe I will see if it floats.

[Rob S]

4 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

I used Delta Ceramcoat Antique Gold for Ochre on my Victory.

Thanks GrandpaPhil.  I’ve ordered some Yellow Ochre on EBay, but if it doesn’t work out, I appreciate the additional resource.  Loving your Vic by the way!

[Rob S]

1 hour ago, Emmet said:

The Corel kit has no instructions for the water line.I guess I will figure it out as I go-maybe I will see if it floats.

Hope you don’t plan on actually seeing if she can float... I get the feeling my Vic would immediately capsize if I ever tried it.  I’m sure it will work it out as you can find all sorts of resources for determining the waterline for the copper... I imagine only the strictest/most meticulous modelers will pull out a ruler to measure...

[Rob S]

On 5/30/2020 at 10:15 PM, Henke said:

I use Admiralty Paints and ordered an "Agamemnon" set from Cornwall Model Boats https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/HMS-Victory-Paint-Set-APS9014W.html#SID=339. They have acrylic paint sets adopted for Caldercraft so there is a kit for Caldercraft's Victory also, which is a bigger ship than your Mamoli kit. The kit I am thinking of contains 10 colors in 14 jars. I do not if it is worth the money + shipping from Europe to US but the paint is good and diluted it can also be air brushed (I have tried, it worked).

 

Regards

 

Henrik

Just ordered this set Henrik; it should do nicely!  Thanks everyone for your helpful and timely advice.

[Rob S]

Doing a bit of ‘fit checking’ after having marked the water line. I verified the spacing below the lower ports vs. the to scale drawing from where the waterline marking was derived. Next, I want to ensure the lower wales/planking will fit correctly on top of the copper plates.  It will be interesting shaping these wales as the aft and forward parts curve up.   So far so good.  Almost ready to start coppering.  

[Rob S]

Have started the starboard side ‘coppering’ per the Mamoli instructions.  I perused MSW for logs with coppering sections and it appears some believe you should start at the keel and others not. I started top, midship and tapered the ends.  Mamoli includes a to scale Victory diagram that was helpful in interpreting the written instructions.  I should be at this for a little while.

 

In the meantime, I received some initial acrylic paint samples - Cobalt Blue, Bone Black, Cadmium Red and Yellow Ochre.  I’ll do some initial painting to see how they look.

 

 

[Rob S]

These pictures bring to light the hull imperfections that require some additional filling and sanding. I’m on it! 

[Rob S]

Tried out my new Yellow Ochre acrylic paint - this is what I have with two coats.  Will build a few gun carriages for fit checks on the upper deck to ensure I can squeeze the cannons in.

 

filled/sanded the hull further and continued the coppering exercise.

 

 

[spider999]

Mate, it is looking good, thanks for your comment on my build.  YT is the other guy I was terlling you about, as well as Diablo from damascus, his boat is a beauty., we are all pretty much in the same place, keep going mate..

 

spider

[Rob S]

I’ve had several questions about inserting the cannons on the upper deck (below the quarter deck) given tight space limitations.  I assembled a longer gun assembly and have identified a few spots (starboard case, my finger is pointing to and a gun is partially inserted) where I can insert an assembled gun and maneuver it to the correct port.  There will be some additional work to adequately secure it, but given the location, etc. - it won’t have all the bells and whistled (e.g., ropes) but will be in place.  Once all in, I’ll button up the upper ports and complete the second set of planking.  Whew!

 

[Nirvana]

Rob, I just read through your build log and you are doing a great job with such complex ship like Victory.
I would also like to invite you to our local Puget Sound Ship Model club. 

Hopefully once the Covid-19 is allowing us to get together again we will start up with our monthly meetings.
It's run by Floyd who also is part of MSW.

If you are interested send me a pm and I will provide you with contact info.

 

Keep modelling!

 

[spider999]

Rob, I dont know if this is of any use to you mate, but here are the 2 pages from the book I have showing the details of the copper tiles, I have clearly marked where the break in the pattern lies, as well as the position of stealers etc.  I found it very very helpful.  Hopefully you can make use of it.

As you can see from the photos on my build, I started with the 4 rows at the waterline at the bow, , then went to amidships and put 12 rows (held on with masking tape) in place, drew a mark on the planks, then same at the stern.  joined the dots so to speak and glued on the first 4 rows.  After that I just filled in above them up to the waterline.  did both sides, then started down at the keel working up parallel to it until I got up to the first set., just got to cut and fit the shaped ones now.

 

Regards

 

spider

[Rob S]

Rob, I dont know if this is of any use to you mate, but here are the 2 pages from the book I have showing the details of the copper tiles, I have clearly marked where the break in the pattern lies, as well as the position of stealers etc.  I found it very very helpful.  Hopefully you can make use of it.

As you can see from the photos on my build, I started with the 4 rows at the waterline at the bow, , then went to amidships and put 12 rows (held on with masking tape) in place, drew a mark on the planks, then same at the stern.  joined the dots so to speak and glued on the first 4 rows.  After that I just filled in above them up to the waterline.  did both sides, then started down at the keel working up parallel to it until I got up to the first set., just got to cut and fit the shaped ones now.

 

Regards

 

spider

 

Spider - Yes, thank you!  I reviewed your log and found this material most interesting.  However, to this point I'm following the Mamoli instructions for the coppering and pattern detailed with their scale drawing that has the initial pattern down 13 rows, starting from mid-ships and working down, upon which the next pattern starts. I do like how your Vic is turning out; copper sheathing very nicely done, especially with the way you have washed out the green coloring.  Appreciate the review, information and feedback.   

[Rob S]

As I continue working the coppering effort on the starboard side, I'm making use of the Mamoli provided green 'tiles'. I've noted that several of them are of a different dimension (both longer and wider) than the standard tile.  A bit frustrating when laying the tiles to later find out you've set one that puts the rest of the pattern off!  I'm setting them aside as I come across them and will use them to fill in any open spaces. 

[spider999]

On 5/31/2020 at 6:15 AM, Henke said:

I use Admiralty Paints and ordered an "Agamemnon" set from Cornwall Model Boats https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/HMS-Victory-Paint-Set-APS9014W.html#SID=339. They have acrylic paint sets adopted for Caldercraft so there is a kit for Caldercraft's Victory also, which is a bigger ship than your Mamoli kit. The kit I am thinking of contains 10 colors in 14 jars. I do not if it is worth the money + shipping from Europe to US but the paint is good and diluted it can also be air brushed (I have tried, it worked).

 

Regards

 

Henrik

I think I got the same paint set from Cornwall modelboats  "HMS Victory paint set"  a few years ago now, wonder how long it stays good for if they are unopened??

 

[Rob S]

15 hours ago, kjs said:

Save the longer ones for the bow and filler pieces.  They will come in handy later.

OK, now it is making sense!  Thank you!  Coppering is continuing.  I’ve noticed some of the tiles on the bow section are sticking up and will need to be sanded.  This is due to the curvature of the bow.  I don’t think I’m supposed to bend them.  Almost done with the first thirteen (13) rows on the starboard side.  Then over to the port side and back to starboard to start the next section. 

[Rob S]

7 hours ago, spider999 said:

I think I got the same paint set from Cornwall modelboats  "HMS Victory paint set"  a few years ago now, wonder how long it stays good for if they are unopened??

 

Good question.  I ended up throwing out my original paint set, but had lugged them around for 20+ years.  Hope you won’t be holding off that long!!

[spider999]

7 hours ago, Rob S said:

Good question.  I ended up throwing out my original paint set, but had lugged them around for 20+ years.  Hope you won’t be holding off that long!!

I bought mine about 10 years ago, only ever opened the yellow to paint the bulkheads on the upper decks, they are still unopened, so I will maybe paint the black/yellow next, nothing to lose, worst case scenario they are all dried up and i buy another set.  we'll see

[Rob S]

Spider - Best of luck finding a good paint set.  I found that many sites were sold out.  I finally ordered through Cornwall although multiple modeler’s gave me some advice on how to put together a set.

 

I’m now through about 25% of the coppering having finished the upper section of the starboard side.  Have laid the first tile on the port side and will be starting there shortly.  I’ve included a ‘Where’s Waldo’ picture of the ship with the first port copper tile set.  I’ve also slightly reconfigured ‘the shipyard’ by attaching Mamoli’s scale drawing to help me directly see where things should go.  Nice now to have that directly in front of me while working.  Better late than never! 

[Rob S]

Port side coming along nicely... just one tile at a time.  I’m also noticing the port and starboard patterns do not perfectly match; hopefully the copper or greenish copper colors will help minimize the clear differences. I’ve measured where each section was started vs. depth below the center port, but the difference doesn’t seem to support where/how the patterns are off.   Once both sides have the thirteen rows of tiles, I’ll begin the second section for both sides. 

 

 

[Rob S]

As I continue with the coppering exercise using these little green pieces of wood, the word of the day is ‘Symmetry’. An applicable sentence would be ‘The ship symmetry is clearly lacking.’  As I mentioned above I started the exercise at roughly the same place but had different results after laying 13 rows (per the instructions) on both port and starboard sides.  The result as coppering did not cover or end at the same places.  You can see the example of the stern where the file on the starboard side represents where I was and the tiles to the right were filled in.  I’m filling in the port side of the bow now.  See where mid ships the measurement of the ‘to go’ surface is close to exact (2 and 7/8 inches).    There will be some additional filler tiles as we continue to align with the waterline.   Then to complete the exercise as we work down to the keel. 

 

 

[Emmet]

Great detail!  I am still trying to understand the green wood idea.  How will it be finished?

[John Allen]

Rob S,

 

Don't worry about the bumps in the planking tiles even though there extremely thin they will take a lot of sanding, also you will probably have half the bag left over so don't be chincy if you break one or sand too much you will have plenty left.

 

Also late to your log always read ahead with Mamoli instructions you'll find on page 6 you should have added to page 2 (example). 

 

Looks Good

 

John Allen

[Rob S]

On 6/28/2020 at 7:47 AM, Emmet said:

Great detail!  I am still trying to understand the green wood idea.  How will it be finished?

Hey Emmet - The wood tiles are made of thin pieces of wood (0.5 x 4mm) made to represent the copper plates at and below the waterline. The green color can be modified to display tarnished copper. I’m not yet sure how I will color the tiles.