CPDDET Posted May 31, 2020 Share #61 Posted May 31, 2020 Nice work Patrick, and well worth the time and effort. Carry on! Overworked724 1 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share #62 Posted June 7, 2020 Slow going here. I got the sills in...and finished off the initial sanding (what a mess). I find myself making multiple little sanding sticks/blocks, and switching back and forth between my Dremel drum sander and sanding by hand. Always too nervous I'll over-sand or snap something off...which happened (3 times). I broke one frame head where the laser cutter had cut much too deep. Many other folks had noted this, and as careful as you might be, the occasional breakage does occur. Easy enough to glue back on - but alignment can be tricky. Also ended up accidentally pushing 2 of the sills out during sanding...again, easy enough to glue back in, just had to be careful of alignment. (Did I mention I'm not very good at sanding?) Here a a few pics of the finished sill. The Admiral gave me an old sheer window curtain as a background drop to mask the noise of my workbench. Today I'm starting on the lintels...looking forward to the day when the bulkheads have some actual muscle and support - so I can stop worrying about breaking off the little bits! Moving on... Peter Bloemendaal, NovaStorm, WalrusGuy and 2 others 5 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaStorm Posted June 7, 2020 Share #63 Posted June 7, 2020 I did the same thing and made up a bunch of different sanding pads when doing mine. They all came in very handy and I need to make some more It a good start Patrick keep er up! WalrusGuy and Overworked724 2 Quote ... I'm a broken man on a Halifax pier The last of Barrett's Privateers ~~~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalrusGuy Posted June 7, 2020 Share #64 Posted June 7, 2020 Sills are looking good!! Nice smooth line. Some of my sills and lintels kept shifting when sanding, just need to be careful not to apply too much pressure. The whole frame is very fragile up until the planking. Overworked724 1 Quote Current: USF Confederacy - Model Shipways (Build Log) HMS Pickle - Caldercraft (Build Log) Complete: Virgina 1819 - Artesania Latina (Gallery) U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways (Build Log, Gallery) On the shelf: Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted June 8, 2020 Share #65 Posted June 8, 2020 Very crisp, clean work Pat. Keep up the great job! Overworked724 1 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #66 Posted June 10, 2020 On 6/8/2020 at 12:55 PM, CPDDET said: Very crisp, clean work Pat. Keep up the great job! Thanks, Dave! Very slow going...but I keep myself occupied during breaks reading everyone's building logs (BLogs)! Your deck fittings are turning out incredible...I'm learning a lot! Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #67 Posted June 10, 2020 Well, I got the lintels in. I must say, I think the man (or woman) who invented the Dremel drum sander fitting should get a medal! I was able to fair down both the sills and lintels without too much difficulty, but going very slowly. I would say the fairing is still 'rough' as I still have just a touch overhang either side. Instead of fairing all the way down to the frame at this point, I'm going to move forward with installing the gun and sweep ports. I'll save the final fairing until the bulwarks are fully built (and more solid - I'm nervous about another breakage - I've had 4 so far!). After I rough sand the middle bits which frame the ports, I'll fair down the inboard and outboard to the final shape. And...here be some pics...Yar!! Moving on...to a beer! <cough!> I need something to wash down the taste of basswood sawdust!! WalrusGuy, niwotwill, Ron Burns and 2 others 5 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niwotwill Posted June 10, 2020 Share #68 Posted June 10, 2020 Patrick I'm building the Syren and just a little ahead of you. I finished my planking today. Your work looks really good. I like your idea to fair the lintels as you go but not to to the stanchions. Nice work I look forward to you progress. Will😎 Overworked724 1 Quote Current Build: Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale On Hold: HM Cutter Cheerful Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale 1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121 1:48 scale Completed Build: Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #69 Posted June 10, 2020 46 minutes ago, niwotwill said: Patrick I'm building the Syren and just a little ahead of you. I finished my planking today. Your work looks really good. I like your idea to fair the lintels as you go but not to to the stanchions. Nice work I look forward to you progress. Will😎 Outstanding, Will. Another Syren build to keep me motivated and well read! 😃 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted June 10, 2020 Share #70 Posted June 10, 2020 Looking really nice Patrick. I'll have to get over my dear of the Dremel took. Always afraid I will take off too much wood. Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #71 Posted June 10, 2020 2 hours ago, CPDDET said: Looking really nice Patrick. I'll have to get over my dear of the Dremel took. Always afraid I will take off too much wood. Hi Dave. I'll claim a bit of a 'lie'. In my reference to a DREMEL, I used that as a sort of blanket term which is commonly accepted as a rotary device. In fact, I use a rotary tool which is NOT a DREMEL. I'll claim some benefit from my discussions with Gus Augustin. Gus is a sculptor, and he uses small rotary tools often for his carvings for his ships (miniatures). One such tool he uses (and I invested in as well) is a variable speed, lightweight rotary tool by WECheer (WE 248). See below for a pic. This is actually a micro Engraver, and is wonderfully easy to use, very slim (1" diameter) and lightweight (NOT BULKY like my DREMEL), and the variable speed is easily and smoothly adjusted using the thumb wheel. The colettes from my DREMEL 3000 fit in this Micro Engraver. What I really love is that the response and accuracy of the rotation speed (which ranges from slow to light speed (23K rpm)) are stellar...so using a drum sander (or micro drill bit, carving bits) is a breeze. Imagine your a dentist...this thing spins incredibly fast, which actually gives you much more control of the wood you take off - with no vibration whatsoever. I tried using my variable speed DREMEL, but found the RPMs would randomly change and the bulkiness (~ 2.5") made it hard to handle as well as see what you were sanding! If I had to compare - imagine if you had to swim the length of a swimming pool and you had a choice between putting on flippers (Micro Engraver) or mountain climbing boots (DREMEL). One makes the job easy, the other creates more work than it actually does. OK - so take this at face value. (But you can get these on Amazon for 70$ USD! Which is why I got a spare - just in case) GrandpaPhil 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted June 10, 2020 Share #72 Posted June 10, 2020 Thanks Patrick, will definitely look into this tool. I have a micro Dremel and wonder how it compares to your tool. Here are the Dremel specs DIMENSIONS Speed: 5,000-28,000 Charge Time: 3 Hours, 45 Minutes Warranty: Limited 2 Years Length: 8 " Battery Chemistry: Lithium Ion Battery: Lithium-Ion Battery Height: 1.5 " Material: High Density Plastic Battery Voltage (V): 8 Model Number: 8050-N/18 Width: 1.5 " Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #73 Posted June 10, 2020 2 minutes ago, CPDDET said: Thanks Patrick, will definitely look into this tool. I have a micro Dremel and wonder how it compares to your tool. Here are the Dremel specs DIMENSIONS Speed: 5,000-28,000 Charge Time: 3 Hours, 45 Minutes Warranty: Limited 2 Years Length: 8 " Battery Chemistry: Lithium Ion Battery: Lithium-Ion Battery Height: 1.5 " Material: High Density Plastic Battery Voltage (V): 8 Model Number: 8050-N/18 Width: 1.5 " Hi Dave A couple points are that it’s thinner by about 0.5” and it’s a plug in vs battery. I personally like the plug in...power is constant under extended use with no recharge time. Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smotyka Posted June 10, 2020 Share #74 Posted June 10, 2020 Patrick, as an observer of your great work, I really appreciate your review of this engraver as I'm building up my arsenal of tools. You read my mind as I was about to replace my old Dremel which I didn't care for its' handling. Thanks, Steve Overworked724 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #75 Posted June 10, 2020 29 minutes ago, smotyka said: You read my mind as I was about to replace my old Dremel which I didn't care for its' handling. Hope it works out for you, Steve! I’ve been using this same one for a couple of years with no issues. Good luck! Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share #76 Posted June 12, 2020 Well, after being reminded (thanks Dubz) that I had not yet made the third template for the top row of brass plates, I took time today to make it and discovered a couple things. In making my top row template jig, I noticed the 'bolts pattern' in the trial copper plate were a touch "off kilter". I would guess that in drilling the holes in the cherry wood I used for the jig, the tiny drill bit might be following the wood grain and perhaps coming through the other side a bit off center from the top hole. Since the pins in my jigs are not glued (friction holds them in), and since the top and bottom of the wood pin holder are the same (there is no 'handedness' like the Port and Starboard templates), I just reversed the orientation of the wood and pushed the pins through the other side...and voila...straight bolt pattern. See below...the top plate was the original wood/pin orientation, and the bottom pic is reversing the wood and pins so the pins are coming out the face of the side which was 'marked and drilled'. Not certain how else to describe it, but my earlier posts show how I made my templates and they are easy to modify. You can see the bottom plate in the pic shows a marked improvement in the alignment of the 'bolt pattern'. It turned out pretty good! After getting my 'Top Row' jig made, and since I was plunking with my brass plate jigs, I noticed that I accidentally made two Starboard template jigs! Well...this sort of pissed me off. I was lamenting making another jig...However, since I had such success in reversing the pins in the 'Top Row' jig above, I decided to do the same for one of my Starboard template jigs. Reversing the pins simply results in a mirror image...or a Port side jig! The result speaks for itself...I am glad I designed my jigs for easy disassembly without glueing in the pins!! It saved me a lot of frustration after discovering my error!!! TaaaDaaaa! In the end, my trio of jigs work nicely, and give consistent plates...and they look like weird chess pieces. Moving on....back to the gun and sweep ports, and the nail-biting pressure of trying not to snap off the little bits! CiscoH, GrandpaPhil, Dubz and 3 others 6 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted June 12, 2020 Share #77 Posted June 12, 2020 Patrick, thanks so much for posting this. My current model won't have hull plating but I'm sure it will happen in a future build. And now I have a great tutorial resource. Overworked724 1 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share #78 Posted June 12, 2020 24 minutes ago, CPDDET said: Patrick, thanks so much for posting this. My current model won't have hull plating but I'm sure it will happen in a future build. And now I have a great tutorial resource. Thanks, Dave. Everyone seems to have a bit of a different approach to making the bolt pattern on the brass plates. I’m glad I did this now though...I could see myself getting hung up and discouraged while my ship sat in the background waiting to be coppered!! 🤣 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share #79 Posted June 18, 2020 Well...made a mistake. Working late in the ship room and sawed off the wrong bulkheads. Don’t know how I did that! No major damage...decided to bolster the section with a piece of 1/8” thick strip wood used for planking. Got most of the sweep ports/gun ports setup...just a ton of sanding and shaping to do. Just for fun, here is a pic of my shipyard which doubles as my work from home office. The admiral ninja-snapped a photo during my recent ship club meeting! 😊 Moving on.... Ryland Craze and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalrusGuy Posted June 18, 2020 Share #80 Posted June 18, 2020 Loving the shipyard and drawings! Might need to make some now No need to worry about the wrong bulkhead, you can strengthen it with some horizontal pieces when carrying out the framing. All of it will be hidden after the planking. Other than the small mishap it is looking really nice and crisp! Overworked724 1 Quote Current: USF Confederacy - Model Shipways (Build Log) HMS Pickle - Caldercraft (Build Log) Complete: Virgina 1819 - Artesania Latina (Gallery) U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways (Build Log, Gallery) On the shelf: Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share #81 Posted June 20, 2020 A bit of progress to report. I got the un and sweep ports in. Sanding down the outer bulkheads will be easier of than the inner side, considering the inner bulkheads have that slight 'lean', making sanding a bit more problematic due to the leaning in of the bulkheads. I think I've created 8 different sanding blocks - and about 5-6 different sanding sticks. One thing I want to keep from doing is over sanding. I'm using 160 grit paper and manually taking down the excess after trimming down the meat of the lintels/sills/filler blocks with a Dremel sanding drum. I used a pencil to color in the bulkhead frames which are recessed from the added blocks. Once the pencil marks start fading, I know I've sanded to the bulkhead. (Easy tricks are best when generating so much saw dust!) Outer sanding is pretty much done...and I'm amazed I haven't snapped anything else off! Lines look OK, and the gun ports and sweep ports are symmetrical and spaced appropriately. OK...is it me or is it just fun taking pics of your build? It's almost like I want to show it off before I do something horribly wrong which will take me weeks to correct! But one point of interest...I finally have an excuse to slip on the transom (which was built off the ship as a separate piece). Not time to glue in just yet, but I can at least show how easy it is to slide on...shaping the transom off the ship should be a bit easier (I hope). Moving on...! smarra, NovaStorm, WalrusGuy and 2 others 5 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share #82 Posted June 20, 2020 I realize I have been saying 'transom' when I actually meant 'stern framing'. Oh well...live and learn new nautical terms! Putzed a bit with the STERN FRAMING today...whittled the sides and counter protrusion so it marries up with my test planking. (I'm going to assume I'm close...but it's a coin flip!). Actually, my dremel and a tongue depressor sanding stick (240 grit) were all the tools I required to make quick work of the trim job. I think I have hit the point where I need to jump into the more difficult and finicky part. With my exterior sanded and ready for planking, I am both nervous and reluctant to permanently attach the stern frame piece to the ship. I also need to determine what wood I choose to commit for the exterior hull planking as well as the deck. Also - whether I want to take the plunge and make an attempt at creating my own hull sheaves (saw some builds where this really made a nice impression)...decisions, decisions... Moving on... Ryland Craze, Justin P., GrandpaPhil and 1 other 4 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Share #83 Posted June 21, 2020 After incredibly serious deliberation assisted by several beers, I’ve decided to use some of the stock of Alaskan cedar to plank the exterior bulkheads. I actually enjoyed cutting my 1/16” sheets into plank strips. The cedar has a pleasant aroma and is a soft and even yellowish cream color. Most importantly...I am SURE of the dimensions of the strips, and used them to create a 7 plank guide per Chuck’s practicum. The strips won’t run the full length of the ship, but that’s ok...I cut 32 15” strips so I have more than enough to plank above the wales. The wales and the rest of the lower planking of the ship will be done in basswood. I also went ahead and tried the golden oak stain on the template and I like how evenly the stain absorbed. Moving on... WalrusGuy, niwotwill, Ryland Craze and 5 others 8 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niwotwill Posted June 21, 2020 Share #84 Posted June 21, 2020 Patrick loving the way you're progressing it going to be a great model your an artist. You'll be forever glad you've decided to use the yellow cedar. I make a test panel to look at using it for decking and liked that way it looked but I think I'll make another three or four panels to experiment with stain colors trying to get a more weathered look, we'll see I might one suggestion for staining I've use pre stain conditioner and it helped dull the color differences between grains on the strakes. Looking really good keep it up Will Overworked724 1 Quote Current Build: Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale On Hold: HM Cutter Cheerful Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale 1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121 1:48 scale Completed Build: Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Share #85 Posted June 21, 2020 1 hour ago, niwotwill said: Looking really good keep it up Will Thanks, Will! It’s slow but steady! Justin P. 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Share #86 Posted June 21, 2020 In my efforts to procrastinate for permanently attaching the stern framing, I decided to make a plank bender. Chuck references using screws but I had some 3/16” dowels handy and thought I’d make a mass (7x plank) bender! First I made a little plank soaker using an old tube. Since the planks want to float up, a Dixie cup with a clamp acts as a impromptu weight. My first trial run worked fine...but upon inspection noticed I had cut the dowels a bit short. Ok...so it’s a 6x plank bender. Moving on... Ryland Craze, GrandpaPhil, BenD and 3 others 6 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share #87 Posted June 23, 2020 A bit more progress. Touched up a few of the ports with filler...a couple were pretty rough. Smoothed out OK. Didn't go hog wild with the paint, but I made sure I got full coverage on the exterior and interior walls. I even painted the interior walls of the sweep ports - until I remembered I still had considerable interior wall sanding to do.... Took the plunge and attached the stern framing...I almost didn't want to do it! Once I glued the piece in, and ensured it was square and set, it really sticks out as one of those pieces that's screams, "Hey! Knock me off! I dare you!" As flimsy as it looks, the filler pieces supports it perfectly, and the stern assembly is supported and glued to both it and to the last frame (26). So it's pretty locked in...but it still looks like a hook from the side. So I'll be relieved to get the bulk head planking underway to give to additional support. Here are some baby pics. It looks remarkably like most other Syren builds at this stage. Although the paint shows up as 'red' - it's actually a darker red or vermillion. I wanted something a bit less gaudy, and bright cherry red is my least favorite color. So I added a few drops of 'gunmetal grey' and 'desert yellow' to a 'red' pot of Tamiya paint. It looks pretty close to blood, even though the pics don't reflect it...and I prefer the darker hue. Moving on... KurtH, WalrusGuy, BenD and 4 others 7 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalrusGuy Posted June 23, 2020 Share #88 Posted June 23, 2020 10 minutes ago, Overworked724 said: "Hey! Knock me off! I dare you!" Those stern framing pieces really do scream those words. I dropped my clamp on the frame at this stage but luckily nothing major broke... It's looking very nice. Loving the red color. Overworked724 and abelson 2 Quote Current: USF Confederacy - Model Shipways (Build Log) HMS Pickle - Caldercraft (Build Log) Complete: Virgina 1819 - Artesania Latina (Gallery) U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways (Build Log, Gallery) On the shelf: Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted June 25, 2020 Author Share #89 Posted June 25, 2020 Some very small progress. Took me a while to convince myself the batten to align the upper wale was correct. I checked and rechecked the plans vs Chuck’s practicum. I finally resigned myself to the “every ship is different” motto and stuck in the pins and marked my hull. I’m glad I got some cedar sheets from Chuck’s Syren company a while back. I love the smell, and the planks really do hold an edge. They cut very easily and they are blessedly not as hairy and thready as basswood. Once I got the upper wale in, I Noticed a slight upsweep at the bow. Not sure if it will cause problems, but at least they are symmetrical. Moving on...slowly slowly. CiscoH, WalrusGuy, JpR62 and 3 others 6 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin P. Posted June 25, 2020 Share #90 Posted June 25, 2020 3 minutes ago, Overworked724 said: Moving on...slowly slowly. You are not the only one... Overworked724, WalrusGuy and NovaStorm 3 Quote Current: US Brig SYREN - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 Completed: HMS TRITON - Cross Section - Scale 1:48 / Gallery Secret Vessel MOREL - Master Korabel - Scale 1:36 / Gallery 18th Century Armed Longboat - Model Shipways - Scale 1:24 / Gallery HMS BOUNTY Launch - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 / Gallery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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