US Brig Syren 1803 by Overworked724 – Model Shipways – Scale 1:64

[HIPEXEC]

Very nice work!  

[Elijah]

Patrick, very nice planking demos! I personally like A the best, but D is another very good option.  

[Overworked724]

That explains it...I don't see a tube in my kit.    And thus begins..."The Tale of My Pintles and Gudgeons..." hereafter referred to as P&G's

 

Part I. 

Ok...my Sultana had paper P&G's because I simply had no knowledge of how best to make the darned things.  This time, a shipmate from my modeling club advised me on how best to cut my own.  So we will start there.  Cutting a metal sheet straight up requires some fine blades and it will still leave a burr.  The way I was advised was to use a harder wood to sandwich the sheet of brass, then cut using a fine tooth blade on a table saw for a clean straight edge.

 

I had a sheet of 1/16" cherry wood - but I think walnut would work just as well.  I ordered a 0.015" (0.40mm) brass sheet from Amazon.  I precut cherry wood sections (about 3x5") and rough cut a section of brass sheeting using my mini-table saw (3" blade, 110 teeth).  I had to deburr the rough cut side of the brass sheet using a sanding stick (220 gr).

I took my 3M spray adhesive (got it at Lowes) and sprayed on one side of each of the two cherry wood sheets.  Waited about 60 seconds until the sticky stuff did not stick to my fingers (per directions)...then sandwiched the brass sheet between them.  Adhesion was immediate...but I gave it five minutes before I started cleaning up the edges with my table saw.

The edges after cutting were nice and clean....and no metallic burr.  I could easily cut a section of 1/16" strip without issue - and as required per the plans.

Nice thing here...cross cutting the strip also gave a clean edge. 

So I cut about 6 strips - because I screw up a lot and tend to try things multiple times before I screw it up on my model!  I still have a stock sheet if need to cut a bunch more.  More importantly, the wood sections give you solid purchase to drill holes if you desire.  My goal was to "try" and make the P&G's as authentic as possible...including bolts consistent with the plans.

I got some nail polish remover (acetone) to immerse and dissolve the strips to separate the wood/glue after the P&G's are ready.   

This is only Part I...there are more chapters in this little side project which are yet to be written since this is my first time attempting this...  But it's a pretty good start!

 

Moving on...

 

 

[Overworked724]

38 minutes ago, Elijah said:

Patrick, very nice planking demos! I personally like A the best, but D is another very good option.  

Hi Elijah!  Yes, I'm waffling between the two.  

[niwotwill]

Patrick

 

I vote for "B" I like the pattern. A lot of holes to fill though. The stain on the cedar treenails darkened them too much for my taste. They seemed to obvious and with so many on the deck it might be too much. Have you tried to stain, drill, install treenails and just use wipe on poly it might keep them from getting to dark.

 

Love you idea of cutting thin sheet metal when a shear is unavailable. I'll use your method on my metal work. I tried knifes with questionable results and too many blades.

 

She's looking really really good!!!

 

Stay Well

Will  

[Overworked724]

Decided to plank both counter and transom. Again using Alaskan cedar...cut my own from stock sheet of 1/16” wood. I figured this would also be easier in ensuring a good fit of the window sills/lintels as well as look cleaner. I used a piece of the brass strips I made and temporarily coverEd the stern rabbet during sanding. 
I cut the lumber arbitrarily since I was going to shape down the transom later. 

After initial shaping and sanding, I thought the transom and counter looked to be in good shape. Also double checked the stern post aligns well and is not interfered with...and it’s all good as far as I can see. 

Also decided to finish up my faux deck with cedar tree nails. 

Moving on!!!

 

[niwotwill]

Transom and counter planking is looking nice, I especially like the rebate around the gun ports. Overall looking good.

 

Nice Job

 

Will  

[Overworked724]

Thanks, Will. Much appreciated!!!

[Elijah]

Very nice result, I like the tone of the false deck.

[Overworked724]

A bit of weekend progress. Basswood strips for the remaining 2 wales and the first plank below the wales are in on both sides. I realized after getting these first few in that the stern isn’t as ‘filled in’ as I’d have liked. Hoping it’s not going to cause any issues, but I take solace in the fact I have wood filler/sanding/painting/copper plating in the future which can hide my awful mistakes. 👍🏽😎

 

And some pics...

I’ll even out the surface after the planking is complete.  So far it look ok for a newbie. 
 

Moving on!!!

[Overworked724]

Ok. A quick aside. Something I couldn’t do on Sultana since I had no know how was to make a good scraper to make the detailed wood moldings on the ship. However, I was a bit more prepared this time. 

 

The metal to make the molding scraper can be a straight razor blade, a metal scraper, or any piece of thin metal with a stiff back bone. The problem is how to make the scraping shape.
 

A Dremel or rotary tool was my choice. I used some metal cutting discs which are absolutely awesome. A fellow modeler put me on them...they are very thin (carbon disc). A package of 22 are bloody cheap. 
 

This makes quick work of a metal edge. I was able to make two scraping edges (a single and double depression) in about 5 minutes. 

Pretty nice result on a 1/16” square dowel!

I think I like the double depression! 👍🏽
 

Moving on...

 

[niwotwill]

Very nice Patrick. Thanks for sharing the cutting discs that'll make cutting the scraping shape much easier. I've been filing them, just ordered some discs and can't wait to try them. I know this will be quicker and make better scrape patterns.This is what the club is about sharing and helping all of us get better.

 

Will 

[Overworked724]

1 hour ago, niwotwill said:

I've been filing them, just ordered some discs and can't wait to try them.

Awesome!  Just be careful. They are carbon discs and very brittle. Any lateral force on them, especially while they are rotating, can make them break.  Actually, explode is more the effect. I have first hand knowledge!  So wear safety glasses and ensure you are cutting edge on straight. And these will slice everything...so safety first!😁!  

[Larry Van Es]

Hi Overworked724. I decided that I wanted to plank the stern as you have decided. When the Syren first came out Chuck watched over most of the build logs and after I had planked it Chuck pointed out the the planks would not have been straight but would have followed the curve of the deck. I'm happy now that I followed his advice. I glued the transom that came with kit to a board to make a jig to bend the planks.

[Overworked724]

Well, that’s a booboo on me. When I planked, I basically followed the line down from the stern gun ports. So yeah...it is straight and there should be a curve. Well, live and learn. 😭 This will not be the last mistake I make!!  Damn...and I was so happy with the stern planking. 

 

Moving on...

[Larry Van Es]

I found in doing this model that it's not whether or not you make mistakes, but how you can recover or cover up your mistakes. I've gotten pretty good at the latter. Here's how my stern came out.

[CPDDET]

I find this hobby to be a never ending learning curve. But also very rewarding as workmanship and methods improve.

 

Carry on Patrick, you continue to inspire me.

 

Dave

[Overworked724]

26 minutes ago, CPDDET said:

 

Carry on Patrick, you continue to inspire me.

 

Dave

Thanks, Dave!  Your work does the same for me!  And I’m pretty happy with my progress so far...but like all the builders on this forums, shipmate support really helps you keep going!

[CPDDET]

Due to health issues I've fallen far behind in my build. Hopefully next week I can pick it up again.

 

Watching your build urges me on.

 

Dave

[Overworked724]

Well...life got in the way recently. Some very small progress. Working on the garboards. Got one carved/shaped/twisted appropriately for glueing. Just wanted to ensure I can do both sides at same time. So will wait until the starboard strake is ready. 
 

Deviating a bit from the Practicum. Chuck’s pics clearly show the tip of the 3/16” garboard strake crossing but not passing the N frame. I find the strake is straight and level provided I terminate it just prior to where the N frame starts. I just want to avoid crowding of planks at the bow at all costs. (My club mates have drilled this into me...no upswing on the garboard strake!). Ok. I’ll put this to the test. 
 

One measly pic...

Moving on...ever so slowly. 😊

[niwotwill]

Good Morning Patrick

 

I've never heard the statement about the garboard strake as being no upswing, I can see how that is true after planking and watching the stem get crowded. Good thing to remember. I used Chuck's method of marking off the frames and using that to determine individual plank widths at each frame and I still had to make adjustments at the stem. Your doing great work here and I look forward to your posts.

 

Will  

[Overworked724]

Thanks, Will!   Actually, I don't know that there is a hard and fast rule on the garboard, but it is a 'rule of thumb' as it is easy to add too much curve (bend) to the bow portion of the strake.  Then you end up paying for it later due to crowding.  Of course, as I've never fully planked a bull, take my posts for the 2 cents they are worth!  LOL

 

Work is killing me this week, but hope to get back in the shiproom this weekend!

[Overworked724]

On 7/18/2020 at 6:58 AM, CPDDET said:

Due to health issues I've fallen far behind in my build. Hopefully next week I can pick it up again.

 

Watching your build urges me on.

 

Dave

Hope you are recovering, Dave.  Take it easy!  

[Overworked724]

OK folks....after a short break to deal with some emergent issues at work...I'm back to post a sub-project update.   Yes, planking continues (slowly...due to work), but everyone has seen planking, and I'm sure most people WON'T wish to see mine.  (LOL)  

 

 

Soooo...I will now post on one of my ridiculous side projects (everything in model ship building is a side project).  In this case, I was really hung up on the sheaves.  There are 4 single, and 2 double sheaves which need to be put in place below the sheer strake.  Check's practicum gives you the same strategy to put them in as the practicum for the Sultana.  Drill a couple holes and carve in the gap between them to simulated the pulley (sheave).  The plans actually show an individual block for each sheave...and I wanted to try making the blocks and sheaves for a more authentic look.  Besides...I knew it would be difficult, and wanted to try and find a way to make them (functional if possible) with the little bit of equipment I have!  

 

So...first thing I'll say is basswood is really hard to work with....I gave up any attempts early on with this wood.  The cedar is tighter grain and easier to work with...and you CAN use my ridiculous method below using cedar.  However, I opted to try using my meager stock of boxwood to make the blocks so I could have the best/cleanest edges.  Also, I don't have a mill...and most of what I do is simply eyeballing and staring down my work if I see any lack of symmetry!  😝

 

First I cut a strip boxwood to the size I needed to make my blocks.  I'm using 1/8' x 7/32" strips for the single sheaves, and slightly taller for the double sheaves.  I figure I should come close to the appropriate thickness once I've whittled down the bulkheads and planked the interior hull.  I don't have a milling machine...but what I do have is a cheap mini-drill press. I gauged the angle of the sheave opening at ~ 8-10 degrees.  This way I can mount the 1/8" strip in my clamp mounted on my x-y table and simply adjust the angle of the mount.  

After that, I mounted the strip and tried using a 0.8mm drill bit versus a 0.8mm router bit.  As expected, the wood grain bends the tiny drill bits off axis and you end up with jagged lines...hard to create a clean hole from that...but the little router bit worked like a charm.  Once the openings were made...I just ran the router back a forth using the x-axis knob on the table a few times and I was able to get a nice, neat, symmetrical hole.

I used a tiny strip of 220 grit paper the smooth out the interior of the hole.  Bingo!  But...that that was the easy part.  My real struggle was how to make a clean looking, and (maybe) functioning sheave!  I tried multiple materials, techniques...and frankly...wood of any type was out.  I just don't have the experience or tools...or know how...to make them like others before me.  The bits I'm working with are just too damned small.  The challenge is trying to make the sheaves (the pulley wheels) thin enough and with the right shape (i.e. round!) to slip into this ridiculously small hole and still retain the look of a miniature pulley wheel... Adding the functionality of a working axle for the sheaves was just more difficulty but at a higher level! 

 

So I thought out of the box...and my result was pretty good!  Chuck makes good use of Sculpy clay in the Sultana practicum.  Sculpy clay is this very fun molding/sculpting clay which after baking in the oven at 275F for a short period (30 min) transforms into a firm rubber-like material with the original color as the clay. 

 

In order to make the pully wheels (sheaves), I used a small amount of my remaining brown Sculpy clay and made thin 'noodles' by rolling it between my hands.  I eyeballed a couple of the noodles I made as looking about the right width (comparing the thickness of the noodles to the opening in my trial block).  The only thing the Admiral said after she cooked them in her oven was "They look like really long mouse poops." and then left my shipyard.  

Ok...yes they do look like long mouse poops.  BUT...they also slice like really tiny cucumbers!  Giving you a sharp and clean circular cross section.  So I cut a few from each noodle to gauge how they would look and ensured they fit inside the sheave opening.  It took me only a couple of slices of the mini-Sculpy cucumber to get a good cross section.  To wrap it up, I used a 0.50mm drill bit and some brass wire (0.50mm) to simulate the axle of the sheave.  You can drill out the shreave first with a pin vise, then line up the hole in the sculpy sheave with the hole you make in the block (which I make with a drill press), then insert the wire.  I used some CA to lock in the wire, then clipped, and sanded (220 grit sanding stick) smooth.

My sheave trial is over...and amazingly...it is a working sheave!!!  I'll take my time and make my working sheaves now...along with a couple of spares.  Once done, I can relax a bit, since my plan was to ensure I HAD a solution for making the sheaves before I began my interior planking.  

 

Moving on!!!!

 

 

 

[CPDDET]

Great work, Patrick. You're paving the way for us less experienced shipwrights.

 

 

[smotyka]

Patrick, always appreciate your posting of pitfalls and then your creative solutions.  I've had similar problems with drill bits that are not accurate.  Thanks for the ideas.

 

[CPDDET]

Am I understanding this correctly? You used a router bit in your drill press?

 

Dave

[Overworked724]

Hi Dave!  Yep!!!  That’s it exactly.
 

I  Got these on Amazon. 
 

In the drill press they operate like a regular drill bit but it is more rigid. The sides have carving surfaces. After the initial holes are drilled, you can insert the rotating drill bit inTo the end hole and slowly shift the x-y table along the path of the holes...very slowly since any lateral pressure might snap the router bit. This will easily clean up the hole so the sides are smooth. 

[CPDDET]

Very nice! Thanks for the clarification.

 

I spent my tax refund on a Byrne's saw and sander which are yet to be delivered. Also got a Wen scroll saw.

 

If uncle Sam comes through with another check I'll be looking for a drill press as well. But will, of course, do my research before purchasing.

[Overworked724]

Way to go, Dave!  There’s something very therapeutic about sticking up on new toys for the shipyard!!!👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽