Test of Byrnes table saw

[michael101]

Hello there

i bought this saw last year and not had the chance to use the saw until now,
now after using the machine I notice that the fence it’s not a straight locking  (if you putting the fence against the  Channel in one side the. Fence will be flush with the Channel and in the other side it’s a bit out of the line )and also when cutting 90 degrees its not accurate to cut it exact 90 degrees ,it’s about 1degree out of the line (I have check it with caliber )

have you had the same problem?

i hope I’m doing something wrong , if not I’m really Disappoint

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im editing now my post and after changing the blade all works perfect !!!!!

its the best tool in my workshop!!!

i dont want to delete the post because maybe all the info below it can help other people🙂

 

Edited February 3, 2020 by michael101
H

[Thistle17]

Let me suggest we continue a dialog on this.

 

Firstly there is a note somewhere either in MSW on fence alignment or elsewhere and I just have forgotten. In that note it suggests one tighten the front lock down and then apply slight pressure to the rear lock down to provide "out board" clearance for the stock as it is pushed past the cutting edge of the blade. This implies there is some bias to the fence parallelism to the blade and not the slot????

 

Secondly, I have to ask in regard to the mitre perpendicularity, when you say you have a 1 degree error how and what are you measuring it. With my best square I have measured the mitre perpendicularity to the blade and with in my capability I do not see any deviation. I have noticed it can be "easy" to have the test piece move while cutting as the finer tooth blades do offer some side thrust to the work piece. I would also check that the blade is mounted correctly/cleanly on the arbor.

 

Joe

[michael101]

Hello Thisthe 

I dine talk about the blade slot , I took a reference from the channels of the sides I mean there is a channel on the aluminum board and I put the fence exactly flush with the slot of this channel I locked down the front lock then the back but still you can see in the back that the fence is not a straight line withe the back channel …

And about the miter of the 90 degrees I’m talking about the slots of the 90 it’s not exact 90 degrees you must do it by the manual screw and can’t trust the pin …

i have check the piece that with angle miter it says 91 degrees …

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Thank you Y.T I saw this video fue days ago

Edited February 1, 2020 by michael101

[Ponto]

While no expert on the saw, if the one degree discrepancy  exists on the back side than I would think this would aid in clearance with a cut piece as it advances past the blade. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[druxey]

Jim Byrnes deliberately 'eases' the fence beyond the blade to prevent binding. Measure the fence's parallelism from the front edge of the table to opposite the center of the blade.

[michael101]

27 minutes ago, druxey said:

Jim Byrnes deliberately 'eases' the fence beyond the blade to prevent binding. Measure the fence's parallelism from the front edge of the table to opposite the center of the blade.

I didnt understand can you explane more about that ?

[jimbyr]

Michael

 

The fence is tapered from the blade center to the rear of the saw

 

regards

Jim

 

 

[druxey]

What I mean is that the fence is parallel to the blade and table to the midpoint of the blade. The fence then slopes away slightly from square. This is deliberate, to prevent 'pinching' of stock between fence and blade as it exits the blade. 

[BANYAN]

One thing that can be said of Jim's tools is that they are checked for true and tolerance before he ship's them.  I don't think I have found another tool that is so well 'tuned' straight out of the box.   That is not to say that shipping etc may have caused a small misalignment, but that would be unusual also as the tools are well packed - mine survived the trip to the other hemisphere unscathed.

 

As Jim himself has identified, and Druxey suggested, the fence has a deliberate offset abaft the blade's arbor to ease the passage of the stock and cut piece.  This is necessary as there is no riving knife/blade fitted to stop the wood binding abaft the blade, and this works well.   I have cut planks from either the outside of the stock or the inside with no issue if you lock the fence as recommended (front first) .  This will NOT cause the tool to cut out of true if as others have suggested you have checked the blade is correctly mounted.  The saw is designed such that if the stock is fed in parallel then it will cut straight straight, and will not bind on the stock unless you get a large build up of sawdust for some reason.  One major problem I encountered, until I realised what the issue was, is that the very fine slitting saw blades may flex when cutting thicker hard wood stock. 

 

All that said, I think the blade angular difference you see is this offset/easing.  Only testing by cutting some stock and checking the trueness of the cut will confirm if you have an issue or not.   Jim can manufacture a jig using a dial indicator to check parallelism if the need arises.  If after checking your blade alignment etc, and measuring the cut stock with a vernier or micrometer etc for trueness and consistency, and you still find it is not cutting parallel, I would recommend you get in touch with Jim direct.  He is very helpful in sorting these issues.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

Edited February 2, 2020 by BANYAN

[Worldway]

If I remember correctly, the fence tapers 0.005" from the blade to the back of the saw.

[michael101]

Thank you all !

i have change the blade and everything working amazing !!!!!!!!!

now i can say its the best tool i have in my workshop !!!