B-25J Mitchell by Tom E - Revell - 1:48 Scale

[popeye the sailor]

it will be with no weight in the nose      you have to know my meaning.

[mtaylor]

1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

it will be with no weight in the nose      you have to know my meaning.

Yeah... I thought of that after I signed off.  Brain fart.

[Canute]

I've only seen a few companies tell you how much weight to add. Most just say to add weight. Tamiya did one better; they included a custom weight for the nose of their 1/48 He-219 Uhu. It's a Luftwaffe Night Fighter with a long fuselage. Pretty hefty weight I must say.

[popeye the sailor]

I haven't had too many kits that mentioned it.........I found out as a young lad.   a very rude awakening.  your brain is Ok Mark........it come from my modeling in a cave all my life.  I say tomato.....others say tomato {short A}.

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Hope everyone is well. 

 

Thanks for all the likes and suggestions! I'm humbled by all the suggestions. Never in my little head would I have thought of half of those. 

That's the best part of MSW!!!!!!

Thanks fellas!

 

As towards the weight issue, I could see that being an issue.

As a kid, I remember the plane models where always so weirdly weighted. The nose would shoot straight up like the pilot missed the landing. 

I've always had a base in mind for this model.  

Michaels sells a variety of sizes of bases/blanks, usually basswood, cut horizontally with the bark left on. I used the same base for my James cannon build.

I might even take it a step further and paint the base to make it look like an airfield setting of some type. But that's a ways off!!! 

 

Lately, I've been feeling pretty good about bringing the fuselage together.

The below pic is just a test fit. That seam down the middle is not that big!

I can see now why it's better to bring the fuselage together first, then paint. 

You can clearly see the two halves, I'll try and dull that down with a light coat of the same color once it's together. 

One last look at the interior. 

Think I have everything. But the "I think I forgot something" feeling is ever present!!!!

Well, there she is.

Taped up and drying. 

The fit was excellent. Even with everything inside needing to mesh together. 

I put the wings on temporarily just to see how she looks. 

I'm really enjoying this kit. 

She's a big bird!

The engines will be attached next.

I am going to paint a neutral grey on the underneath. That I'll do while it's still unassembled. 

Check in on your neighbors!

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

your giving me fitz!...........she's a biiiig girl   now I can't wait to start building mine!   I don't think you answered my question at the beginning of this log.  in my kit,  I got two decal sheets {they are the same},  and two complete sprues of clear parts.    is that what you got?

  

here is why I ask......  these two sprues are identical........I have not seen any differences between them.  the tab at the bottom of the sprues has the mold number on them,  and they are different.   easy assumption is that there is more than one mold......but it's a mystery.   why the duplications?

 

it is a milestone....I'm about ready to close up the Memphis Belle.    heck....I've done it.......close the fuselage and find that I forgot to add the windows!  it quickly becomes an art to install the windows,  unless you have a tube of window maker.........if the window is large......well,  your in for some scratch building.  now you can move on to the external    good show!   ....a more perfect union...... 

 

good to hear you have the weight question covered.......I was hoping you had that in mind   

[Old Collingwood]

Looking good, always a seminal moment when we glue the fuse halves together  - kind of no going back.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

48 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Looking good, always a seminal moment when we glue the fuse halves together  - kind of no going back.

 

OC.

That is the point of commitmentent right there..... First half done...  You get to feel like you actually accomplished something, at least for a little while....

[Tom E]

OC, Egilman,

Your right about the feeling of accomplishment. I languish on a section or part, move to the next section, so on and so forth.

When it finally starts to come together from a pile of painted pieces, it's a great feeling. 

 

Denis,

Belle is looking awesome! Cant wait to see what you can do with the Mitchell! 

I looked at my kit about the decals and clear sprues.

 

Initially, I thought I had two sheets of decals, but one turned out to be a wax paper like cover. I assume to protect the decals in some way.

You must have had the FNG on the packing line the day your kit was put together. 

On the decal sheet I see a "1999". Is that a patent date, production date?

Is this kit old enough to drink alcohol?

But I do have two sets of identical clear sprues. 

They all have the same pieces except for one difference. 

 

One of your sprues should have a piece labeled #92.

That's used for the Finito Benito version. 

Part #130 is for the Jaunty Jo version.

That's the one I'm going with. 

 

All the other pieces should be the same. 

Seems excessive to give two complete sprues with one difference. 

That's not cost effective. 

 

Tom E 

 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Those decals look in good order  despite thier age  - no fading and good colour from what I can see.

 

OC.

[Tom E]

In person, 

The decals look brand new. 

 

Sure hope that helps.

If I remember from when I was a kid, decals can be pretty finicky. 

 

Tom E 

 

[Old Collingwood]

11 minutes ago, Tom E said:

In person, 

The decals look brand new. 

 

Sure hope that helps.

If I remember from when I was a kid, decals can be pretty finicky. 

 

Tom E 

 

Have you got  setting  solutions like Micro Set  and  Sol?     they do help  massivly.

 

OC.

[Tom E]

I have neither products.

 

Honestly, never used them before. Last time I built a plastic model, nothing like it was being produced yet.

Matter of fact, PE wasn't available last time I built a plastic model!

 

But they do pique my interest. And I am at a point where I can start putting decals on the props and other areas.

I have seen the Micro solutions online and do seem to be the "industry standard" for these types of solutions.

 

May be time to take the leap and invest. 

 

Are they pretty straight forward to use?

 

Tom E 

 

[Jack12477]

Tom, there are 4 solutions SET, SOL, FLAT, GLOSS. SET and SOL are used to set the decal and make it snuggle down over surface details. SOL is slightly stronger solution than SET and is used to get the "stubborn" decals to snuggle down. FLAT and GLOSS are used to seal the decals after they dry and give as their name implies a flat or glossy appearance. GLOSS  can be applied over flat paint finish to give the decal a gloss surface to adhere to, then seal it after the decal dries. 

 

I generally have a set of old paint brushes I dedicate to applying these products. They are pretty straight forward to use. Apply the decal to the surface, then using a brush apply a small amount of SET over the decal until it snuggles down over the detail, less is better, then let it dry. Use SOL if the decal is thick and doesn't snuggle down using SET.

 

You should buy all 4  solutions. Most hobby stores carry them, but you can also order them from MicroMark online.  

[Old Collingwood]

Fully agree  with  Jack.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

I agree with Jack also, but would substitute Future for gloss overcoat as the medium to set your decals on... You brush in on "Wet" it dries very thin and quickly (4 times faster than gloss lacquer) and is non reactive to flat lacquer overcoats.....  Means you only have to overspray once, that being the final flat/gloss coat depending on your final finish requirements. (some people use Future as the final gloss coat also) Can't have more control than that......

[Tom E]

Thanks Jack, 

I agree, sounds like the way to go. 

 

I'll set up an order shortly. 

 

Egilman, you mention the gloss overcoat as the medium. Is that the gloss coat from Micro set or a different brand?

 

Tom E 

[Jack12477]

6 hours ago, Egilman said:

agree with Jack also, but would substitute Future for gloss overcoat

I use Future also as the undercoat for decals or  Microscale Gloss. It just depends on situation. I have been using Pledge/Future more frequently lately.   Pledge or Future, same acrylic  floor polish just different brand names. 

[Tom E]

Pledge?

The furniture spray?

 

Tom E 

[Jack12477]

7 minutes ago, Tom E said:

Is that the gloss coat from Micro set or a different brand?

It is Microscale Gloss or you can also use Pledge or Future acrylic floor wax. Both work well. EG  was referring to Future floor polish. 

[Jack12477]

24 minutes ago, Tom E said:

Pledge?

The furniture spray?

 

Tom E 

No ! It's the liquid Tom.  I'll try to find my photo of the bottle for you.

 

Ah ! Found it !  This is what I use to gloss coat anything  - including my two car models and the Coast Guard helo

 

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Tom E said:

Pledge?

The furniture spray?

 

Tom E 

No no no no... not Pledge, the oily greasy furniture polish, Future, the hard shell floor polish.... Jacks picture is Future after they (SC Johnson) renamed it...... (the reason they re-named it? Pledge is supposedly more recognized than Future was and has better customer appreciation) You definitely want the floor product...

[Egilman]

2 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

Ah ! Found it !  This is what I use to gloss coat anything  - including my two car models and the Coast Guard helo

THAT'S the stuff!!! My bottle still says Future Acrylic floor polish. (that was several name changes ago)

 

I remember on several online forums where everyone went all crazy when they did the first name change and Johnson's said they were discontinuing the Future line, it was just a product line/name deletion, incorporating Future products into the Pledge product line trying to keep sales up....

 

Had everyone confused for a while....

[Jack12477]

3 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Had everyone confused for a while....

Me included!  I didn't know about the rebranding. I've only known it as Pledge.  Saw an article in FineScale Modeler back awhile about using Pledge floor wax - had to go to Wally-world to find it tho.

[Tom E]

Evening, 

Not much of an update, but should encourage me to get the weekend chores done early so I can play with new stuff!

Never used decal solutions before. Bought these from MicroMark. A five bottle set for about $24.00. 

I plan on trying these on some un-used decals to practice with.

Reading the directions, seems pretty straight forward. 

As a side note...… It's been a good Friday!

Splurged on some deep dish pizza direct from Chicago.

Everything in my town is New York style.

Good pizza, but sometimes you need a pizza where one slice fills you up.

With a tall glass of Coke loaded with ice....ya cant beat it! 

I do recommend Lou Malnati's pizza. 

There should be a fourth pizza in this shot. The other is in the oven! 

 

 

Tom E 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, Tom E said:

Evening, 

Not much of an update, but should encourage me to get the weekend chores done early so I can play with new stuff!

Never used decal solutions before. Bought these from MicroMark. A five bottle set for about $24.00. 

I plan on trying these on some un-used decals to practice with.

Reading the directions, seems pretty straight forward. 

As a side note...… It's been a good Friday!

Splurged on some deep dish pizza direct from Chicago.

Everything in my town is New York style.

Good pizza, but sometimes you need a pizza where one slice fills you up.

With a tall glass of Coke loaded with ice....ya cant beat it! 

I do recommend Lou Malnati's pizza. 

There should be a fourth pizza in this shot. The other is in the oven! 

 

 

Tom E 

 

 

Sounds like a plane Tom  - both the food and the  decal solutions.

 

With the micro sol  Please - please be carful  Not to mess with the decal after you have applied it over the decal, you will see some reaction on the decal - thats Normal  (but you Must Not touch the decal  till the micro sol has completely dried)

 

OC.

[Tom E]

Thanks OC, 

 

I can guarantee that I would have seen that and figured I screwed it up somehow.

 

Tom E 

[Jack12477]

Good on the decal solutions. I see they added satin to the mix, that's new. And I second OC's advice on the Sol. Go easy and don't touch after you apply it..  

[Egilman]

My only suggestion is find something with a few rivets on it, then test it out and see what happens....

 

You will know when it is dry when it looks painted on... (best leave it overnight although it usually doesn't take that long)

[Tom E]

Evening, 

I do believe the Mitchell needs an update.

There has been some progress, but during the summer months, even with quarantines........it's hard to stay off the back deck with a cold one!!! 

 

Any who......

 

I've started the front nose section. Since I'm building her as the Jaunty Jo version there are 5 machine guns in the nose. 

Four of these guns will be updated with resin guns.

 

 

Clearly the kit supplied gun is on the left.

These resin guns will look good after a coat of paint. Probably just stick with a flat black here.

That gun metal paint I've used before is kind of shiny for me. 

 

 

I dabbled with the decal solutions.

Figured I would start with some of the smaller decals for the propellers. 

Don't know if I used it correctly, but I think they look pretty good. 

 

 

There is one more decal for each propeller.

But I'm going to let these dry for an unnecessarily long time. 

 

 

I also masked of the fuselage for its grey coating underneath.

Used a Tamiya Sky Grey.

 

 

I see I have some great panel line accent with the dark color being underneath the grey coat. 

I didn't know you could do that.

Lesson learned. 

 

 

I'm going to let these set for a while before unmasking. 

 

 

Be good

 

Tom E