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Micro-Make Variable Speed Drill Press - Comments good/bad/ugly!


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MicroLux® Benchtop Variable Speed Mini Hobby Drill Press - I'm considering this as my next power tool purchase. Any comments good, bad, or ugly!!! I am leaving my Delta bench top drill press in my garage shop and this will be a dedicated model ship tool in my workshop. How does it compare with the Proxxon Bench Drill Press TBM115??

Thanks in advance!

Hank

Edited by Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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This looks like a fancier version of the one sold by Modelexpo.  Some time Model Expo puts them on sale for under $100.  This  one looks to have a better level of finish than the Modelexpo one but aside from the digital readout and other mostly cosmetic differences I would assume that under the skin they are the same drill.  My Modelexpo drill press works good, very little vibration and seems to have a lot of power for its size.  Haven't had a chance to do much work on it but seems to do what it is supposed to.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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It seems fairly expensive to me.   I get acceptable results from a EuroTool DRL 300.  I have only used wire gauge bits with it.  I added an XY table that cost more than the drill,  but now I see that I could have gotten the same thing from Ali Express for ~$40.  The price has jumped from $80 to $110.  Tariff result is my guess.   I would sooner use a $100 machine if I was going to break the rules and use it for lite milling on wood, than a $350 machine.  Neither has bearings for lateral force.   I also use a momentary foot switch with it.  For drilling wood, I do not see the benefit of a bells and whistle level speed control.  A sharp cutting edge is more important.  Isn't the speed control a metal being worked thing- Al vs Fe vs CU?

If you are going to use it to make tools and will be milling metals, a for real milling machine would be reasonable expenditure.  For wood, you do not even need accuracy. You do need precision though - i.e.  once you determine what and where, that it repeats doing that exactly the same every time.  My DRL-300 will do that.  My sin is that I use a bit until it bends or breaks.  Some burning in a #70 hole does not bother me.

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Thanks GRSJAX, NZREG, and Jaager!

I will certainly take your various comments into account. I should have mentioned up front that most of the work will be drilling wood, plastic, & small metal parts. Nothing really major and no milling. I will look at the various models you three have suggested as I think a larger selection to consider might be advantageous in the long run.

I already have an XY table & assorted drill press vises & accessories, it's just the drill press that needs to be purchased. I too tend to hang on to bits well after their useful life is long since passed. And yes! the prices on these items does seem a bit high when compared to the price of buying another 2nd Delta Bench Drill Press. That (price) will be a selling point, as well.

 

NZREG - A question re. the TBM115 - does it require a separate power supply or not? 

GRSJAX - A question re. the Micro-Make drill presses - do they require a separate power supply and if so, is this their std. power supply that works for their other line of tools?

Seems that the item details on both products don't really mention this one way or another.

Edited by Hank
Add question

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Hank,

Sort of off the wall, 

1) I first thought that by Micro-Make, that MM had a drill press as part of their rebranded line of Kaleas DC tools.  The right angle sander I like -a lot.  The belt sander does jobs that are difficult otherwise, as long as it is held with a wood spacer to stop it throwing the belt, which takes about a minute otherwise.  I am not sure about the other tools.  No drill press though.

2) USS Pennsylvania - I first thought of the 1830 120 gun liner-  an absolute monster,  it has all of the beauty and grace of a Stalin Era high rise apartment building with spars and sails.

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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GRSJAX - Thanks, I needed that info!!

Jaager - Also appreciate the reply. It seems a lot of mfgrs. end up parceling out their product to "sub-brands" in order to make more sales (or fool the public!!). I beg to differ with you, sir: PENNSYLVANIA (1820) does have more curb appeal than a Soviet era Apartment Bldg.!!! And was probably warmer inside to boot!!!

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Just make sure it has a very good chuck and/or capacity for collets. When you get down to the very fine drill bits like we use for modeling, the slightest bit out of true, or a little wobble, and the bit will snap. Anybody can make a cheap small drill press, but accuracy to high tolerances costs money. An x-y table will be keenly appreciated, too, so add the cost of that to the package.

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Bob,

Right on!! Got it!! That's one thing the Delta bench top D.P. was not designed for - more a shop tool for woodworking than a modeler's tool for ship models, etc. As for the X-Y Table, I already have one and have a couple good D.P. vises to use with this. In fact, I plan to shortly (as something to get me back C-L-O-S-E to modeling) make a jig stand to hold the upside down hull of the next model I will be building in order to drill out various holes in exact locations for the drains, discharges, intakes, etc. that I will add that are not part of the model as purchased. Having a quality D.P. in tandem with the X-Y capabilities will serve very well. I can't wait....:omg:

Note: I already have a Proxxon Bench Top Lathe DB-250 and while my use of it was very limited in 2018 prior to retirement, I am leaning towards the Proxxon D.P. or the Micro-Lux 3 speed D.P. The lathe is very high quality in construction and that's a big plus. However, price will be factored before a decision is reached.

Thanks for your input - good advice!!!

 

Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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NZREG,

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind!

 

Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Share on other sites

Hank,

Just curious here, will you also be looking for a mill at some point?   If so, consider the mill instead of a drill press.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Mark,

No, I don't have any plans to do milling. I've got a fellow modeler close by who does quite a bit of model machining in steel, brass, etc. It there is something I can get him to do for me, he's always happy to help out!

 

Thanks!

Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Hank,

Keep him seriously bribed.  Saw dust is messy but easy to clean up; and not critical if you miss some.  Steel kerf and shavings are something else.  They can play havoc with a machine.  When a job is finished, a mill or lathe needs serious and time consuming disassembly,  messy cleaning, and reassembly.  Steel shavings are really unpleasant to deal with.  And the oil...., I use laxative mineral oil for way oil, but it is still a chore to remove.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Will do!! What drilling I've done with metals IS a messy proposition and the cleanup as you state is a pain. I've considered whether or not my modeling needs would ever to that point and can't say as they would, a drill press is all I'm after. One of the guys in our modeling crew actually has a Micro-Lux 3 speed for sale (with XY Table & bells & whistles), but his price is rather steep and I am not really considering it. The new ones are on mark down at Micro Mark and that's very tempting.

Thanks for the cautionary note!

Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Metal cleanup of the chips, shavings is a bear which why I try not to do metal.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Leaning towards the Micro-Lux 3 speed D.P., but not quite there yet. Concerned about height from table to chuck (how much working space I'll have with a chuck & bit in place, etc.)

Edited by Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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3 hours ago, Hank said:

Concerned about height from table to chuck (how much working space I'll have with a chuck & bit in place, etc.)

Email them, they usually respond pretty quick but given the way things are these days, may take longer.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thanks both Gaetan & Mark! I'll send an email to Micro Mark and ask about the column and whether an extended version is available. Just a guess, but since it's made in Japan, more than likely its column diameter is metric which may not be easy to find in the U.S. should I want to make a longer replacement myself.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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A longer column is nice to have.  My late friend Steve Wheeler purchased a longer length piece of the right diameter off the internet.  Sorry I don't know the source but it was a standard item from the place he purchased it.

Kutr

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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Thanks Kutr (must be the middle Eastern spelling of your name😂)

This is the kind of information that's going to cost me money sooner than later!!!!

Much appreciated. (I kind of felt that the column must be made out of a std. diameter stock, whatever the diameter turns out to be).

Hakn (maintaining the now established format from The Chief)😁LOL!!!

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Hank,

 

Model Expo just had their version on sale for well under $100.00 so just couldn’t pass it up - so far am happy. Not sure why I wanted to do this, but just for kicks I chucked a small Starrett pin vice with a #77 bit and it worked great. 

 

By by the way, I’ve really enjoyed your workshop renovation posts and am envious, but it’s time to finish that up and get back in the ship business 😸😎

 

Don

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Don,

Well thanks! Actually, I was just on my way out the door to get back into workshop mode and decided to check the forum. So, you're to blame for today's short work schedule!!!! LOL!!!

I'm just about decided on purchasing the Micro Lux 3 speed. Believe it or not, I used the Delta for drilling all sorts of very small holes for items on 4 different models, so I'm guessing the Micro-Lux should be an improvement over the clumsiness of the Delta, so to speak. Thanks for your input - FYI - the Micro Lux is currently at $199.95 which is a sale price for how much longer I don't know.

 

OK, time to get back out and switch gears to workshop construction mode....

Hank

Edited by Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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I've gone ahead and ordered the Micro Lux 3 speed D.P. I appreciate all the comments regarding this topic. Hopefully, this choice will be a lasting one as far as a modeling size drill press is concerned.

 

Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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7 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

A longer column is nice to have. 

True but it will also be less rigid than a shorter one.  Increasing the length can have an undesirable impact on vibration and accuracy.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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Except this is a 1 3/16" dia. solid steel piece about 12" long that was replaced with a similar piece 4 to 6" longer.  Still pretty darn substantial.

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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GRSJAX/KVD,

Thanks for the further comments. This model D.P. is supposed to have a clearance height of 7" from chuck to base, so if I were to find a column replacement I'm only looking for another 1"-2" at most. I would guess that a thick walled pipe of matching O.D. would serve the purpose. We shall see....

Hank

Edited by Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

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NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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I believe the column on the MicroMark drill is a tube, not a solid bar.  I could be wrong as I have not had the chance to take one apart.  One way to stiffen a tube it is to fill it with concrete or a wooden dowel that is a snug fit in the tube.

Edited by grsjax

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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