Pegasus by hdrinker - 1:48 - POF - Swan practicum

[hdrinker]

My narrative didn’t come through. Your’e likely wondering why I would post pictures of such a poor job of deck framing…It demonstrates how one can’t be too attentive to symmetry. Even with a framing plan taken from the book and drawn to the particular dimensions of my build, and what I thought was careful measurements, the drift of port carlings to starboard in the beginning accumulated significantly before I recognized it (see top photo). Rather than start over, since the framing will be hidden, I elected to make an abrupt correction with the few remaining beams. Not a pretty result. But a lesson learned, as noted by Kevin previously. Turning the whole model/building board on a bench with limited space in order to sight fore to aft is difficult, but now I see the need to do so frequently.

[hdrinker]

I’ve started the lower deck planking. The “spring” strips (for lack of a better term) work well to tighten the planks together initially. Problems of symmetry still haunt me but am directing more attention to corrective measures as I proceed.

[Jim Lad]

That deck planking's coming along nicely.

 

John

[hdrinker]

Thanks, John. I’ve used colored PVS but like Kevin Kenny’s pencil method more.

Henry

[Kevin Kenny]

Hi Henry

now the link is complete. 
kevin

[hdrinker]

Boxwood on Swiss Pear beams. On to the pillars.

Henry

[hdrinker]

Homemade duplicating jig.

[hdrinker]

Upper deck beams and pillars placed temporarily.

[hdrinker]

Starting the forward cabins. The lights shown here are truly a challenge. Just when I think I’ve got it all together, except for the last little piece, it all falls apart! But they’re better than the magazine light, so I guess I’m progressing. 
 

Henry

[Kevin Kenny]

See that MicroMot transformer in the back ground there. A great set of tools.

[hdrinker]

Forward compartments in progress on the lower deck. 

[hdrinker]

Forward cabins complete. Functioning door hinges about as small as possible but, as noted by others, still over scale.

[hdrinker]

[hdrinker]

Starting after cabins next. With the standard door only 48” high, I can see why there were very few seamen and officers in the 6 ‘ tall range! Talk about closed head injuries! 

[Oldsalt1950]

There really wasn't much space given to head room in those ships. I visited HMS Victory in Portsmouth back in the 70's and I stand a whopping 5 foot 8, hit my head on more than a few deck beams while touring the gun deck. 

[hdrinker]

Ready for those hinges again.

[hdrinker]

This is about as small as I can go, which is 12” for the door side and 4” wide. That would seem to be about 50% oversized, give or take. 

[hdrinker]

Aft cabins and doors complete.
 

[hdrinker]

Now the stern. Much dreaded!

[hdrinker]

On 6/13/2022 at 12:06 PM, hdrinker said:

Now the stern. Much dreaded!

For reasons I think relate to my  interpreting the stern extension of the half breath plan onto the building board, my outer counter timbers  don’t square up to the wing transom when viewed from aft for parallelism with the quarterdeck transom temporarily installed. So to fix this error, I need to add and subtract to and from the outer counter timbers so they align properly with the quarterdeck transom. Or…..I could, I suppose, remake the whole stern. Any advise would be welcome.

[hdrinker]

On 6/15/2022 at 6:57 AM, hdrinker said:

For reasons I think relate to my  interpreting the stern extension of the half breath plan onto the building board, my outer counter timbers  don’t square up to the wing transom when viewed from aft for parallelism with the quarterdeck transom temporarily installed. So to fix this error, I need to add and subtract to and from the outer counter timbers so they align properly with the quarterdeck transom. Or…..I could, I suppose, remake the whole stern. Any advise would be welcome.

Didn’t remake the stern but after a few XM adjustments to the outer counter Timbers, things ended up OK. 
Now to start the main deck framing, using lessons learned from the lower deck. First thing was to lay out the line for the outer carlings, so they’re both symmetrical and make a smooth curve. I think it will look much better than my previous effort.

[hdrinker]

The knees are pretty straightforward. 

[hdrinker]

[Kevin Kenny]

Looking great

[hdrinker]

I decided to experiment with micro LED illumination of the lower deck. Thus a pause in construction while I learn what to do. Purchased some micro LED’s which came with a separate bunch of resisters. Each LED came with 3” set of leads. Each positive lead is soldered to one of the resister leads, the other end of which is then soldered to a connector wire (red) of 28 ga insulated 36 v 5 amp colored wire. The negative LED lead is soldered to a black connector wire of similar specs. This was repeated at intervals, most on short stalks intended to run  beneath the portion of main deck framing that won’t be planked, with a few long stalks to bring into more confined areas such as the crew quarters. The resulting string is shown powered by a switch box containing 2 1.5 v batteries.(double A). Each soldered junction is coated with liquid tape to prevent shorting against adjacent connections, which I found to be a big problem. The string will then be fed through an aft frame space and brought up to the under side of the main deck framing and secured with CA. At this point, the ledges can be added. We’ll see

[dvm27]

Sounds interesting. Just be sure not to over-illuminate and keep the light color on the yellowish side to mimic lantern light. 

[hdrinker]

Thanks Greg. The resisters keep the light dim and I bought LED’s that have a “warm” light which is quite yellowish. If there’s too much light, I can cut out LED’s without interrupting the circuit.

[hdrinker]

Once the starboard deck is planked, the actual lights will be mostly hidden. The camera shows the lights more intense than they appear in reality. This is my second iteration. The first had more lights and longer stalks that were to be put in the cabins. But it proved too tedious with many shorts between adjacent soldered terminals and wire breakage. So this is a simplified version, which seems adequate to permit some visibility of lower deck details once the upper decks are installed.

Henry

[Kevin Kenny]

I like it. I tried to do this with one of my models the Naparima. The problem is that after installing it the string did not work and i could not retrieve it to get it fixed. You might want to think about how you can retrieve it if it need to be serviced.

kevin

[hdrinker]

If it fails, it fails. There’s no fixing it. Worse case, no lights. It was just an experiment really. Nothing ventured…….