Cutty Sark by NenadM

[Izzy Madd]

Thanks Izzy, please put some photos, and explane wider ( my english ...)

 

In mean time I`ll show some photos I picked

 

One is from Rfolsom`s log, b/w is Lou`s and third is from net

 

cat 5.jpg

 

cats 2.jpg

 

cats 3.jpg

No problem as I thought words would be a barrier.

 

Hope all are ok and yourself.

[Izzy Madd]

Hope this helps

 

No scale just how to

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This can now be seen also in the forum "Kit Bashers Guide to The Galaxy" with more explanation if needed.

Edited June 1, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

Sorry there are so many photos. I'm trying to show you all the stages and keep it simple hence no words. Hope the images say it all.

[NenadM]

Goooood idea!!!

 

Thx, now I get it

[Izzy Madd]

Goooood idea!!!

Thx, now I get it

So a picture does speak a thousand words.

 

I did it as simple as me so you would stand a good chance of getting it. I hope you find it useful even if you don't use it

[NenadM]

As I said Izzy, good idea, but in my scale, it is invisible

 

Cats are 3cm long, with crossection 4x4 mm which means that sheaves openings are 3mm long and 0,5 mm wide. As it can be seen on picture, I drilled a hole, put inside 3mm barbeque toothpic 3mm dia, and ... where is it ?

 

So little to be seen.

 

Maybe some fine tuning and cleaning will help, we'll see

 

This is tonight result

 

 

Edited May 29, 2015 by Nenad

[Izzy Madd]

As I said Izzy, good idea, but in my scale, it is invisible

Cats are 3cm long, with crossection 4x4 mm which means that sheaves openings are 3mm long and 0,5 mm wide. As it can be seen on picture, I drilled a hole, put inside 3mm barbeque toothpic 3mm dia, and ... where is it ?

So little to be seen.

Maybe some fine tuning and cleaning will help, we'll see

This is tonight result

IMAG0134.jpg

IMAG0135.jpg

Hi,

 

Glad my suggestion has been so well used. I find that the twisted wire and bristle brushes sold for cleaning out air brush guns great for removing that pesky bits that cling in holes like this.

 

They are looking great. A coat of paint and you'd never know they were to scale. Well done.

 

The hardest part is not tearing the wood apart when drilling. But you've taken to the next level as mine demo was not to scale.

 

I hope the admarity as a whole are ok. Best wishes. If your not sure what tools I'm meaning just say.

Edited May 29, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

Hi,

 

It's not always about what can be seen as much as knowing it's been done right.

 

As far as I can see the biggest issue is general dust and glue in there. Try running some thick thread back and forth like dental floss. Or even several lengths of normal thread twisted together like a pipe cleaner. Or if you have any the small brushes used for air brushes as they are very small. Like these

 

 

They range from 5-1.5mm and are great for cleaning more than airbrushes.

 

They also do ones that are just the wire part and so more harsh but needed sometimes

[Izzy Madd]

Or even these. We call them hummingbird detail pick

 

Great for teath and models.

 

 

 

And yes Cap'n you can use either idea‽

[rfolsom]

Hmmm.... Yes!  Izzy's solution was a great solution to the cathead sheaves...  I wish I would have thought of that at the time...  (So simple, but very effective).

 

Hope you are doing well, and all the best for the family...

 

~Bob

[Mirabell61]

Nenad,

 

your cathead Posts with 3 sheaves (laminated) look fantastic....

Well done !

 

Nils

[NenadM]

Hmmm.... Yes! Izzy's solution was a great solution to the cathead sheaves... I wish I would have thought of that at the time... (So simple, but very effective).

 

Hope you are doing well, and all the best for the family...

 

~Bob

As I remember, you did,something similar Bob? Btw, can you declare a time of your buildimg come back ? We miss you

[NenadM]

Nenad,

 

your cathead Posts with 3 sheaves (laminated) look fantastic....

Well done !

 

Nils

Thank you for your kind words Nils. I wish I have even 10% of your skils.

[NenadM]

Izzy

 

I made mistake. My unpatience (again). I had to clean dust from sheaves right after drilling hole, but ... Nenad is ... just Nenad ... didn't do it, and, being idiot, put CA on toothpick and turn it in hole, without thinking (again) that CA will interact with sanddust and little wooden pieces left in sheaves, and cemented them. Now, I have 0,5mm wide sheaves openings full of CA with dust and pieces, very very hardened...

 

Here is macro shot of one of the openings

 

 

This is the worst, almost full filled with hardened CA. And just try to imagine this 0,5mmx3mm space cleaning with anything without damage?

 

Considering that baffles between openings are also 0,5 mm wide, I thing that cleaning without serious damage is mission imposible. It seems to be much easier to make them again, with usage of brain, this time

Edited June 1, 2015 by Nenad

[SawdustDave]

Just knowing someone else, besides me, can do stuff like this is a comfort.... Hahaha

Build it enough times, you will eventually get it right my friend..... Trust me.

Edited June 1, 2015 by SawdustDave

[NenadM]

I agree, Dave

 

Problem is my wish to finish my model in real time

 

Maybe one more attempt

 

Or two

 

 

Looking for this on my office desk, silly idea comes for making sheaves instead to drill throught

 

Edited June 2, 2015 by Nenad

[NenadM]

Final solution for sheaves - all-mighty folder mechanism metal strip

 

 

Rounding corners and getting circle shape with dremell tool

 

 

Body (layers) is made of fine sanded veneer, finished with 400 sandpaper. This is esential to get straight lines of every particular layer inside sheaves openings. Later it is impossible to correct.

 

At the place. Veneer strips are 5mm wide, and sanding will put them to 3,5-4mm as it has to be according to my rescaled C-plans

 

 

After rough sanding, sheaves appears, as I expect

 

 

Macro shot

 

 

Putty and paint left to be done, and Cats will be ready to mount. Now it will be easy to turn off excess of paint from metal, when wood soaks paint

 

But at the end, there is still a question:

 

Only 3,5x3,5 mm ... sheaves opening is 0,5x3mm, ... particular sheave is ... invisible ... was it really worth several attempts?

 

Yes, having in mind playing, relaxing and fine tuning my skills.

 

From other side, considering no rope goes through, I think - with no doubt, there is not possibity that anybodu will see sheaves openings, and sheaves inside without magnifier, just as my (ex Bob's) piggy under fore deck in piggpen

Edited June 3, 2015 by Nenad

[Izzy Madd]

Final solution for sheaves - all-mighty folder mechanism metal strip

IMAG0136.jpg

Rounding corners and getting circle shape with dremell tool

IMAG0137.jpg

Body (layers) is made of fine sanded veneer, finished with 400 sandpaper. This is esential to get straight lines of every particular layer inside sheaves openings. Later it is impossible to correct.

At the place. Veneer strips are 5mm wide, and sanding will put them to 3,5-4mm as it has to be according to my rescaled C-plans

IMAG0138.jpg

After rough sanding, sheaves appears, as I expect

IMAG0139.jpg

Macro shot

IMG_20150603_210112.JPG

Putty and paint left to be done, and Cats will be ready to mount. Now it will be easy to turn off excess of paint from metal, when wood soaks paint

But at the end, there is still a question:

Only 3,5x3,5 mm ... sheaves opening is 0,5x3mm, ... particular sheave is ... invisible ... was it really worth several attempts?

Yes, having in mind playing, relaxing and fine tuning my skills.

From other side, considering no rope goes through, I think - with no doubt, there is not possibity that anybodu will see sheaves openings, and sheaves inside without magnifier, just as my (ex Bob's) piggy under fore deck in piggpen

A possible help aluminium soda cans are much softer so would punch far easier. And if need be glue together to get greater thickness, as well as being easier to shape. Also once each sheave is as you want. Drill small hole in centre. Clean the dust off and insert a piece of paper clip to hold them in place. And then they even turn.

 

Just a thought. Also you can remove the glue dust mix with acetone very easily. Although you probably know this.

 

The type of glue I used was PVA which I should have said before.

[NenadM]

After putty, sanding and painting

 

 

Next are metal fittings of Cathead, figure on top and mounting on fore deck

[GLakie]

Those turned out great Nenad!  Hope all is well there. 

[NenadM]

Those turned out great Nenad! Hope all is well there.

 

Thanks George. Actuallly ... I dont know ... status quo couple of days, without moving forward ( bad news) and withlit moving backward (good news). Still very weak, unmovable, counting 23th day since surgery, still in intensive care Edited June 4, 2015 by Nenad

[Izzy Madd]

Our hearts and thoughts are with you all at times like these...

[popeye the sailor]

hoping recovery picks up speed for you two Nenad.......catheads look sweet!

[NenadM]

Thx Izzy and Denis

 

Yesterday, byin' some stuff for Hothead's exam modeling, I discovered resource of brass wire 0,5mm to up, brass pipes 1mm to up, wooden mouldings square and rounded, different foils and materials, on a place I never suppose to find it there ( supply shop for screen printing).

 

Right on time for playing with cathead's fitting. And playing with soldier iron too (if it survive last Hothead's attack)

 

Nils, please do not look at this baby steps of metal works which follow

Edited June 6, 2015 by Nenad

[NenadM]

First brass soldering experience ... for now, it seems more easy than coper soldering, and wire is a bit stronger, just it has to be

 

This two "hooks" (whatever is their name) are positioned 5 and 10 mm from top, and bothered me a lot, because each one is very small ( 1,5-2m). After several attempts I got I was looking for

 

 

 

I can not find on plans or photos clear shot or drawing of place and way of conection to cathead, and, having in mind that all will be painted black, decided for this solution

 

 

 

Next is angle . Two angles : vertical and toward stern.

 

 

 

 

 

My regular two hours working time, and just a second to dissapear somewhere on table. Half of hour looking for, and found it ... yes , you guess, on the floor. Fortunately, no damage. Just today I cleaned floor (after loooong time) and see it right on time before Tiranosaurus Rex squashed it

 

Litlle thinking forward ... this cathead attachment is fragile, sharp, and pretty much positioned outside from model, and it is real possibity to damage it before rigging time. I have to make it movable, and to keep it somewhere out of model untill rigging time comes. Same thing with fragile parts on foredeck ( nets, bars, etc)

 

Main thing is not to forget something later

[NenadM]

And what is this ?

 

Why I can not edit post from phone ?

 

[GLakie]

That's some good looking iron-work Nenad. Not sure what the Sucuri warning's about! 

[Sven]

Hi Nenad

All you detailing is looking terrific!

The sharp and fragile piece I think is called the whisker and is hinged on the real CS as you can just see at the top of the photo to keep it out of the way when necessary

 

Hope this helps!

[NenadM]

Thank you George and Matt.

 

Whisker boom according to C-plans.

 

Usefull picture Matt to understand function and working scene of cats.

 

I think I'll keep my solution because my magnifier is only 3x englaring, and do not know how to drill 0,2mm hole in 1mm wire

 

And somewhere in detailing you just have to say simply words : " stop, that is enough"

[Izzy Madd]

Thank you George and Matt.

Whisker boom according to C-plans.

Usefull picture Matt to understand function and working scene of cats.

I think I'll keep my solution because my magnifier is only 3x englaring, and do not know how to drill 0,2mm hole in 1mm wire

And somewhere in detailing you just have to say simply words : " stop, that is enough"

It can be done by eye but it is not simple to explain. And can be a case of do it right or destroy everything so probably best.

 

Thinking of you all take care of your self as well.