HMS Flirt 1772 by drumgerry - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Scale.

[drumgerry]

Pre-bevelling bulkheads 2 and 3 and associated parts.  Having to be careful to support the ply across the thinner areas to prevent flexing and to prevent a repeat of the above. 

 

[glbarlow]

5 hours ago, drumgerry said:

Sawn planks surely need tidying up after ripping even if they're close to final thickness?

No, not really. With my Byrnes saw and the right blade I can get really nice planks as I’ve been doing with my Cheerful build. 

[Geowolf]

well done drumgerry, sure you'll finish it as you imagine! the ship is very nice, with a lot of job with the guns. Many of us have some problems and issues but the most important is try to resolve it (you can read my problems with the second plank, my god) and keep pushing, and finish the model!

 

regards,

 

F.

[drumgerry]

11 hours ago, glbarlow said:

No, not really. With my Byrnes saw and the right blade I can get really nice planks as I’ve been doing with my Cheerful build. 

Except that I'm guessing you need your timber pretty much planed all round and of the correct thickness to start before you can start ripping strips off it?

 

2 hours ago, Geowolf said:

well done drumgerry, sure you'll finish it as you imagine! the ship is very nice, with a lot of job with the guns. Many of us have some problems and issues but the most important is try to resolve it (you can read my problems with the second plank, my god) and keep pushing, and finish the model!

 

regards,

 

F.

Thanks Geowolf.  Determined to finish it for sure.  I'll be sure to check out your planking posts.

 

Gerry

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, drumgerry said:

you need your timber pretty much planed all round and of the correct thickness

Of course, that’s why l look for a source of milled sheet stock.  It used to be easy to find.

[drumgerry]

A wee bit of progress.  Still working on the framing for the upper deck.  Think I've spotted a mistake in the instructions as well.  Not a big one but still a mistake. 

 

 

The manual should read (I think) between bulkheads 3 and 4 and between bulkheads 4 and 5.  The false keel itself is given number 1 in the parts so the first bulkhead at the bow is number 2.  Please forgive me for such pedantry as I live with an editor so it's not really my fault! 

 

 

Gerry

[drumgerry]

And part no 20 on Flirt goes between the second (part number 3) and third (part number 4) bulkheads!  So yep not a mistake as such but an un-necessary muddiness. It might be simpler in the manual if the bulkheads were labelled 1 onwards rather than 2 onwards.  I mean it's bleedin obvious where parts 20 and 19 go but for the sake of simplicity in the manual I'd be inclined to change it.

[James H]

7 hours ago, drumgerry said:

And part no 20 on Flirt goes between the second (part number 3) and third (part number 4) bulkheads!  So yep not a mistake as such but an un-necessary muddiness. It might be simpler in the manual if the bulkheads were labelled 1 onwards rather than 2 onwards.  I mean it's bleedin obvious where parts 20 and 19 go but for the sake of simplicity in the manual I'd be inclined to change it.

 

You can blame me for any 'muddiness', as I wrote it. 

 

Thankfully, you have a nice set of photos which helps to negate any slight numbering errors  

After all, you'd struggle to put those parts anywhere else 🤣

[drumgerry]

Sorry James!  Like I said I have a former newspaper editor peering over my shoulder whenever I'm writing anything important and she wouldn't have let that through.  The pictures are fab though as is 99.99% of the writing 👍

[James H]

41 minutes ago, drumgerry said:

Sorry James!  Like I said I have a former newspaper editor peering over my shoulder whenever I'm writing anything important and she wouldn't have let that through.  The pictures are fab though as is 99.99% of the writing 👍

The embarrassing this is that I used to be an ex-mag assistant editor, but when you're writing stuff like this, then you are constantly cross referencing documents, plans etc. and putting the text together. I'll try harder next time 😂

[drumgerry]

No need to try harder James!  The manual is superb.  As a beginner I couldn't begin to take this on without something as good as that to help. 

[Sjors]

4 hours ago, drumgerry said:

No need to try harder James!  The manual is superb.  As a beginner I couldn't begin to take this on without something as good as that to help. 

I’m not a beginner but it is true what Gerry is saying.

When you look at the manual you can see that it is written by a modeler him self.

 

Sjors

 

[glbarlow]

So part number 2 is the first bulkhead... What part number should the keel be if the first bulkhead was part 1?  Isn’t bulkhead 1 the second part you’d need after the part 1 keel.  Fortunately not all of us are editors and can follow along as it is. 🤣🤣

[chris watton]

I sometimes number the first bulkhead 1, but I feel this should go to the keel as this is the first item you usually hold. Doesn't matter though, as long as part numbers match up to drawings/pics.

[drumgerry]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

So part number 2 is the first bulkhead... What part number should the keel be if the first bulkhead was part 1?  Isn’t bulkhead 1 the second part you’d need after the part 1 keel.  Fortunately not all of us are editors and can follow along as it is. 🤣🤣

I feel in my heart of hearts Glenn that maybe the keel doesn't really need a part number 😁.  Or maybe it could get a letter or a roman numeral or laser etched letters saying "keel".  Oh man I wish I hadn't started this.  It really is obvious what is what and what goes where.  Me and my big mouth haha!

 

Chris you are right of course.  It just struck me slightly that I was gluing parts between bulkheads 2 and 3 which had a 3 and 4 etched on to them.  I'll slink back into my corner now....

 

Gerry

[glbarlow]

No worries, all in good fun

[drumgerry]

For sure Glenn!  I hope nothing I said came across as a complaint because I really am loving the build and the manual is top notch.

[James H]

8 hours ago, drumgerry said:

For sure Glenn!  I hope nothing I said came across as a complaint because I really am loving the build and the manual is top notch.

I'm doing the same thing for the Duchess of Kingston at the moment.

 

I promise to get the bulkheads numbered properly in the manual. 🤣

[Strata]

11 hours ago, chris watton said:

I sometimes number the first bulkhead 1, but I feel this should go to the keel as this is the first item you usually hold. Doesn't matter though, as long as part numbers match up to drawings/pics.

I dont think its important, but there is some logic in drumgerry's post as keel is something really easily identified even without numbers but bulkheads can be mistaken easily. Without the picture i would wonder if part 20 belongs between 2nd and 3rd bulkhead or bulkheads with part numbers 2 and 3. Maybe for native speaker it's obvious thanks to some language rules or something but for me as a non native speaker it seems like both options are possible.

[drumgerry]

Houston do we have a problem? 

 

I'm making a start on fairing the hull - it's very early days. Working on the stern bulkheads for a few minutes and on checking with a plank noticed this..... 

 

 

I appreciate its not a great pic and the plank is bulging out slightly but I think it conveys what I think might be the problem. There's a gap of almost 2mm over bulkhead 14.  

 

I haven't done much sanding so far and maybe I'm worrying about nothing but it's going to take a lot to close that gap.  Is it reasonable to be seeing gaps like this at the start of fairing? Or should I be thinking about building that bulkhead up with some veneers or something? 

 

In terms of diagnosis I wondered if maybe I hadn't fully pushed that bulkhead down far enough during assembly but I measured how far above the deck the bulkhead extension tabs are sticking and it's the same as adjacent bulkheads. 

 

Apologies for the newbie question. 

[chris watton]

It looks like the rear most bulkhead needs further trimming

[James H]

Can you so a wider angle photo showing the stern too?

[drumgerry]

Gap looks enormous in these pics but in reality it's about the same as the width of the kit's lime planks. 

 

[James H]

It looks like that last bulkhead needs to be bevelled more, from what I can see.

 

 

[chris watton]

The rear bulkheads do need severe bevelling for the planks to run smooth. I cannot reduce the bulkhead lines as this would make them too small when bevelled. Bulkhead size and shape is an area I spend a lot of time getting right when first starting any new design - but usually the rear most bulkheads, especially with hull lines as fine as Speedy Class, require a lot of sanding.

[drumgerry]

I think if I'm honest it might be down to over zealous pre-bevelling of those bulkheads or at least me putting the wrong angle on to them.  Sanding in earnest needs to commence I think and hopefully I'll not ruin things in the process.  

 

Thanks for the help guys - much appreciated. 

 

Gerry

[James H]

32 minutes ago, drumgerry said:

I think if I'm honest it might be down to over zealous pre-bevelling of those bulkheads or at least me putting the wrong angle on to them.  Sanding in earnest needs to commence I think and hopefully I'll not ruin things in the process.  

 

Thanks for the help guys - much appreciated. 

 

Gerry

 

Providing you've bevelled that rear bulkhead properly, then just pack out that low bulkhead a little as you go. You'll have no problems. 

[glbarlow]

Is the angle of your rear bulkhead the same as in James’s photo of his production model? Can’t exactly tell but looks like his has a more pronounced tilt. 

[drumgerry]

I think it's the same Glenn from what I can tell.  At the top it follows the angle of the false deck as it tapers back toward the stern if that makes sense. 

 

I think I'm good now though.  I did end up adding two layers of veneer (1.2mm in total) and I think that's what I needed to do.  I was going to have to take too much off the rearmost bulkhead to close that gap.  

 

Another pic.... (apologies for all the intrusive fingers/fingernails in this afternoon's pics!).  The gap you can see here closes with light finger pressure - I couldn't close it and take the pic at the same time though! 

 

[James H]

Problem solved! Nice save.