HMS Victory by ronald305 - Model Space

[ronald305]

as I said before and I say it again  Bobby is not very helpful  he doesn't show or explain how he did the first stern plank and that is the most important one of all once that one the rest will fall in place, 

 

[Bossman]

Ronald, in the pics provided you can see I have made the bend with the twist using a candle. I used some old bass or lime wood 1/16” x 1/4”. This took about five minutes after soaking it for 2 or 3 minutes. Twist in opposite directions while putting a bend in it at the same time. Lay against the hull where it fits and trim.  Pay no attention to the scrap piece of cherry, it was not used in the process. Hope this helps. 
 

In my opinion, soaking for 12 hours is way too long. Wood will only hold so much water. If I’m using boxwood I only soak it 30 minutes or so. 
 

 

 

[ronald305]

ok thanks Bossman 

   12 hours was a recommendation from another site also I have no idea what type of wood  the planks are made  of but do like the way you achieved the bend and twist in the photos so  how long  is a good  time to soak the planks if not 12 hours  and did you bowl the water as well 

                                      Ronald 

Edited October 28, 2020 by ronald305

[Bossman]

Ronald, I soaked the planks for 2 or 3 minutes. I just used warm water. You will get a feel for heat and pressure. Don’t try to force it. It took me about 5 minutes for a finished plank. If you feel you need during the bending process, dip your finger in water and rub it on the plank. Good luck!

[ronald305]

Hello there Gregory 

     is the 1/16x 1/4 basswood you  mentioned is that exactly the same size as the wood the kit 

      has  2mm X 5mm 

                                     Ronald 

[Gregory]

No.

 

It is approx 1.5875 x 6.35 mm.

 

The extra thickness would give you more sanding room..

 

To get mm dimensions you would have to look at an EU source.

[ronald305]

all right thanks 

[ronald305]

Hi guys and Gal's 

     would any one know why Model space is down  all I get a server error I wanted to tell Mark the 

       Administrator that my planks that he said went out to me in October never did show up and I 

     am about to run out of 5mm X 2MM planks to fix the stern area  what can I use to substitute for that

    size planking I was able to find that size buy only in balsa but I find it to soft can it be used  can it be 

    bent in to shape using the same method  as the for the harder planks 

                                      Ronald 

[ronald305]

hello there 

       can anyone tell me why the planking strips keeps splitting? or breaking when I try to bend them for the stern did, I faired it to much or is the wood Im using I got the first two in place, but the third plank keeps on 

  breaking or splitting I even trying to use my crimpers as well and heat bending, do I use a bigger head on the plank bender it's a good thing I have a lot of planks I purchased from Age of sail some time ago, can anyone 

   help me please thank you PS enclosed is a photo of the area in question 

                                  Ronald 

                     

[Gregory]

2mm Sounds a bit thick for the amount of bend in that area.

You might try thinning it down to at most 1.5 mm.  Try soaking the strip before bending it in place, then let it dry before gluing..

 

Also note that it may tend to split more depending on the direction of the bend.  Start your bend, and if it looks like it wants to split, try bending in the other direction.

[Morgan]

If you are not doing so already I would soak the plank, leaving the plank over-long, apply your heat to get the desired bend, and clamp in place, trim to length when dry, also drill a small pilot hole before nailing.

 

Gary

[Charter33]

Hi Ronald,

The construction method that this kit uses is expecting an awful lot from the planking strips. That bend at the end appears very exteme. I see that you have tried crimping and heat, but have you tried soaking the planks in hot water? This often makes wood more pliable. Might be worth soaking a strip, gently pressing it around the bulkhead (or even a similarly shaped object) and leaving it to dry overnight. Once 'pre-formed' it may be less of a strain to glue in place.

You also mention that you got these strips some time ago. Sometimes wood can get more brittle with age.

Hope you find a workable solution to this problem.

Good luck!

 

 

[ronald305]

 thanks everyone who replied to my help questions regarding bending the planks, to answer the last Gentleman about the construction method that is the way model space wrote the instructions sir, Im following what they tell me to even though the instructions are hard to figure out, but I will try the 

  pre-formed method, I have tried soaking the planks in hot water but don't know how long to soak them 

as far the wood purchased, they were purchased last year, to answer charter33 question I do predrill a small pilot hole before nailing 

                                 Ronald 

[Charter33]

I'd start by soaking the  strip for about 5 minutes and see how that goes. Always a good idea to pre-drill before driving in the pins, but do it after the strip has been bent and has dried out.

If the planks are only a year old they should be fine.

Looking forward to hearing how you get on.

Graham.

[mtaylor]

Water does work on some woods but I find that a short water soak and then applying heat from bending tool, a curling iron, or my preferred method, a heat gun and bending board works very well.   In the plank bending area (here:  https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/) Chuck has at least one video using the soak and hair dryer/heat gun method.

 

Water alone doesn't do what's necessary due to the cell structure of the wood.  The heat is what does the bending and the water transmits the heat into the wood.   As the wood cools it will retain it's shape.   I've bent pear, basswood, boxwood, cherry, and even ebony using this method.   On some woods (like ebony) I have to do a resoak and bend several times to get the curve right.   

[ronald305]

Hi Mark 

     I was wondering will steam work as well because I have a small steamer 

[Charter33]

Hi Ronald,

Steaming should help. As Mark explained, wetting the wood and then applying heat from a curling tool, or similar, will change the water in the plank to steam and this is what enables the fibres to move to a curved/bent shape. I've also achieved good results heating wet planks with a small travel iron. 

Graham 

[ronald305]

so how long should i soak the planks for 5 min or more and hot the water should 

                            Ronald 

[Gregory]

19 hours ago, Charter33 said:

I'd start by soaking the  strip for about 5 minutes and see how that goes.

The idea is to apply a heat source to the wet plank.

 

Water is a better transferrer of heat than air. 

Not knowing how your steamer works, a small iron is probably better..

 

I believe a couple of our members use this or something similar

 

.Steamfast SF-717 Mini Steam Iron

Edited January 4, 2022 by Gregory

[Dziadeczek]

Ronald,

Check it out, what Gebhard Kammerlander does with wet wood strips and a hot soldering iron.

 

The video is rather old and not the best quality, and in German, but you can see what is possible with this technique and what is not.

You do not have to use his electric plank bender, just a regular soldering iron should suffice (with a heat control, if possible, not to burn the wood).

Besides, the degree of wood bending also depends on wood species your planks are made of. Some wood is quite brittle, some very stiff and springly and some very pliable (pear, and somewhat stiffer cherry). The thinner the plank is, the more you can bend it, all the way up to 360 degrees!

 

Pre wet your planks in luke warm water for 5 - 10 minutes and, while they are wet, heat bend them to a desired curve. Sometimes you have to do it in stages, wetting them and bending, and so on. If you overbend your wood, you can unbend it - using the same technique.

 

Your planks look rather brittle, I don't know the wood specie (perhaps mahogany?), but you might try to replace them with some fruitwood and heat bend them, instead of using the planks supplied in the kit.

Good luck!

Thomas

[ronald305]

Hi  there fellow ship modelers 

    I know it has been a while since I requested help with my model space HMS Victory, but I need your help again I'm at the point where you add the forward garbed plank to the forward bow near the false keel pack 4 stage 36 -page 146 part 12,13 and 14 I do not quite understand part 14 and 14 I had to  remove the two planks twice already, I understand about having the planks touch the false keel by 1mm and only put glue on the ribs and the bits and  to sand them along the line of the ribs but when I try to add the planks they are close to the bits and they are suppose to be bent as in the photo 11 attached  has anyone come across the same issue and the video is not help full at all and Allen is not allowed to help me because the lovely Admin when I try it again what should I do this time the last photo is not pretty but you can see where the plank needs to be trimmed, if I have tear any paper shims out I'm ok with it any suggestions would be appreciated,thank you 

                             Ronald 

[ronald305]

regarding the bow plank that needs to be glued to the garboard is it supposed to be bent slightly I am unable to tell for the photo that is attached 

   please view the area in the cycle on the photo thank you P.S, I'm hoping someone would reply soon 

                                              Ronald 

[Gregory]

The garboard is a plank.  It is the first plank along the keel.

It should be glued to the frames and fit flush against the keel if a rabbet is not provided where the keel meets the frames. In a typical kit, the garboard strake runs the full length of the keel.

 

Here is a good example from Chuck's Medway Longboat.

Typically it should end just before the stem begins to curve upward.

The following planks will be placed against the garboard, and you don't want them to have pronounced curve upward.  You will want them to run straight toward the stem.

Of course there will be some curving of the following planks, but this will be determined by the run of the planking in general.

Edited January 1, 2023 by Gregory

[ronald305]

ooh I see now I miss read it wrong thanks, but for the garboard planks to be glued to the filler bit as in the photo I will need to bend it a bit in order to trim the curve as in photo 14 right 

      

[Gregory]

I really can't see your photo very well.

If you try to match the look in the image I provided, you should be OK.