Saettia by Kondzik - WAK 7-8/2015 - 1:100 - CARD

[kondzik]

Hi.

 

I've decided that it is time to end period of inactivity after finishing Allege and start new project. I've decided to try my skills at building card kit of Saettia, small transport vessel from Genoa, used from end of XIII until XVIII century in western parts of Mediterranean Sea. Kit was designed in 1:100 scale by Tomasz Weremko aka Seahorse and published by WAK issue 7-8/2015.

This time I've decided to use laser cut frames. Since these parts are made of beermat cardstock, which is nice to cut with scalpel but awful when sanded with sandpaper (it is very soft), all parts were soaked through in nitro based varnish. After drying parts got a bit more stiffnes and stopped falling apart when sanded. Currently whole frame is glued and ready for covering with deck and sanding before first layer of skin.

 

Cover of the kit:

Hull frame:

Till next time.

[Louie da fly]

A very interesting vessel, Kondzik. Looking forward to your progress on this one - I have a weakness for lateeners.

 

 But I don't know how you guys manage to make things in card. It all looks too difficult. I take my hat off to you.

[kondzik]

Small update, quarterdeck and first layer of main deck closed framing from the top. I've deviated a bit with build sequence from parts numbering and created first windows. I've also started to cover hull with first (of three) layer of skin.

 

 

 

[ccoyle]

Looking very good at this point!

[kondzik]

Time for another update.

 

At first I've glued almost all parts of first layer of skin, leaving only last piece covering stern.

 

 

After that it was time to roughly shape up stern cabin. Doors happened to be a little to large and needed slight trimming.

 

Current progress

 

 

 

[Louie da fly]

She's taking shape very nicely.

[tkay11]

I continue to be amazed at the accuracy of your work. As for me, I still struggle with the sanding of card: it just comes out as a rough mess no matter what grade of carborundum paper I use, so my planking looks a real mess although the fitting is fine. Do you have any advice about better sanding?

 

Tony

[bigpetr]

You have to harden the edges that you are sanding. You can soak the edge with CA glue or clear varnish and then you can sand just fine

[kondzik]

As bigpetr said, soaking is the way to go, especially with this kind of card form which laser cut parts are made (it goes by the name beermat here). CA glue is OK if you don't care about potential discoloration (which is fine for frames) and if you are not allergic to its fumes. Since I am allergic I've decided to try something different and I soaked through all laser cut parts in a can of nitro lacquer. It is not as hard as with CA so it is easier to sand but nitro helps keep its structure. I've also painted all printed parts with two layers of nitro. I use 180 grit sandpaper and miniscule amounts of pressure.

[tkay11]

Thanks for the replies. I agree about the frames and internal structures. These I have covered with nitrocellulose and the slight roughness after sanding doesn't matter. The problem is the external sides of the hull planking, which I also varnished. Perhaps I'm not using enough varnish/nitrocellulose. I've been wary of covering the external hull with CA as I wondered about the impact on the acrylic paint I use when I then apply it. However, I'll practice on some scrap -- something I should have done in the first place!

 

Tony

[bigpetr]

I did not try it myself yet, but some paper modelers soak the whole sheets of paper from the book (before cuting the parts) with nitrocelulose so it goes through the paper to the other side. So I think you do not have to worry about amount of the varnish. More the better in this case. Better to test it on some scraps as you wrote.

[ccoyle]

Does anyone know what name nitrocellulose goes by in the US (other than gun cotton)?

[bigpetr]

Something about nitrocelulose varnish:

 

https://nitorlack.com/en/blog/nitrocellulose-varnishes-everything-you-need-to-know/

[kondzik]

A little bit of window joinery

Without "glass":

And with "glass":

"Glass" was made of thin, transparent foil used to package laser cut parts and after gluing and some masking sprayed with glossy acrylic lacquer.

 

Currently I'am preparing to close stern cabin with side windows and deck. I've made small error while fitting middle horizontal part but this little sin will be hidden with sides.

 

 

[Louie da fly]

Looking good, Kondzik!

[kondzik]

Not that much progress since last update. I've closed stern quarters.

 

Then it was time to cover main deck with planks. The only difficulty was to keep planks straight. I've helped myself with a bit of painters tape and light pencil marks.

 

And currently vessel looks like this.

 

Next in line is second layer of skin.

 

Edited November 3, 2020 by kondzik

[kondzik]

Progress update. This post is a bit picture heavy, I hope you don't mind.

Second layer of skin, or if you want, first planking is done. Below pictures showing couple of stages:

 

Next were bulwarks

 

I've reinforced stem with steel rod 1mm in diameter, since I wasn't able to drill proper hole in the hull it only prevents bowsprit from bending during maneuvering with model.

 

Currently it looks like this

 

 

Next up is final planking which will make or break this build.

 

 

 

[tkay11]

Interesting that you reinforced the stem. I should have thought of the risk in advance. I bent mine completely on the card/wood model I'm experimenting with (card frames and hull, everything else in wood). I ended up having to cut the stem near to the hull and make a new one from wood, then nail it to the card remnant along with some epoxy glue. Luckily it will all be painted so you shouldn't be able to tell it's a composite structure when finished.

 

Tony

[kondzik]

I always try to reinforce in some way parts which are sticking out and I feel like glue might not be enough. Sometimes it might not possible so I have to be careful. Funny thing is that with my previous build - Allege d'Arles I've managed to break away rudder four times. Now I'm thinking how to prevent it in current build, perhaps some cut to proper length and carefully hidden/embedded paper pins will do the job.

[tkay11]

I gave up with the card rudder and made it and the sternpost from wood. That way the fixing (using brass strips) is at least sound!

 

Tony

[kondzik]

Quite some time has passed since last update, time to dust off this build log, end period of winter laziness and show some progress. Final layer of planking is progressing nicely, I'm around 2/3rd into it.

 

 

 

[kondzik]

I've managed to finish the planking. I've used last two planks on each side to correct any accumulated errors. It worked out quite well on bow and stern but in the middle there are small gaps left. Fortunately they will be covered with bumper strips (or maybe I should call it wales). Almost all planks where a bit longer than needed (around 0,5 - 1mm) which is nice and allows for some leeway. Only one on left side initially was shorter by about 0,5mm (first light brown counting from bottom and it was last one glued) but after some more sanding of previous layers I've managed to get it right. I might have made some errors in previous stages, not enough sanding maybe.

On bow there is there is some trimming required but I am going to do it during cap rail fitting.

 

[Louie da fly]

That's looking very good, Kondzik.

 

Steven

[kondzik]

Small progress update.

I've made false frames and cap rails.

 

Fitting on bow proved to be tricky and I've damaged the part.

 

I've fitted some roof tiles on stern.

 

And finally bumper strips.

 

 

[kondzik]

Not really much progress with build, I've only managed to finish bowsprit details. Black parts are made from styrene strips.

 

 

I've also started work on anchors - styrene again.

 

Not much card in this update.

[Chuck Seiler]

Looking good!  I had/am having similar issues with using card stock that you noted in your opening post.  I will experiment with soaking the parts in varnish.  I am not familiar with nitro based varnish.

[tkay11]

Styrene is something I would like to try. The results are really good.

 

Thanks for this wonderful work!

Tony

[Louie da fly]

Beautiful work, Kondzik! I'm continually amazed at the quality that can be achieved from card.

 

Steven

[kondzik]

Thanks guys.

 

15 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

I had/am having similar issues with using card stock that you noted in your opening post.  I will experiment with soaking the parts in varnish.  I am not familiar with nitro based varnish.

 

When it comes to soaking and reinforcing card parts I've recently found out about substance called Paraloid B72 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraloid_B-72). In pure form it is sold as transparent, hard crystals (should be available in stores for artists). It dissolves in acetone, ethanol, toluene and xylenes and solutions up to 15% are used in conservation of old prints or rotten wood. I'm definitely not going to use toluene and xylenes but when I get my hands on it I'm going to try and test solutions in acetone and ethanol. I've also read that dissolved in IPA it can be used as glue for photoetch. I've learned about if from other modellers who are also allergic to CA glue.

[Chuck Seiler]

I assume you mean IPA=rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) versus the beer.