Wood filer

[Andre Gotty]

Hi!

What is the material used to fill the gap on the planking after sanding the hull?

Thanks 

[bolin]

I assume that you plan to paint the hull? For that case I have thus far used a ordinary fine grained wood filler from the hardware store. Nothing special or fancy. I don´t know where in the world you are, so its probably no point in mentioning brand names.

[allanyed]

Hi Andre,

Welcome aboard!!

Please post an introduction on the new members forum and let us know a little about yourself. 

 

There should be no gaps between planks.  It would be a good idea if you read the various articles here on planking methods that will give you a planked hull without any gaps.   That said, as mentioned above, if you are painting the entire hull, no harm in filling the gaps, but, no matter how well you do this, the filled gaps may show unless you give multiple coats of paint and sand between coats to try to even things out.  For tiny gaps, you can use saw dust of the wood that is used for the planking mixed with carpenter's glue or something like DAP Plastic Wood.  As you are showing you are doing scratch build, better yet, you may want to consider removing the planks and replace them so there are no gaps.   I know this is a pain in the neck, but it could be your best route to follow and a great learning experience.

 

Allan

 

Edited November 11, 2020 by allanyed

[Roger Pellett]

My favorite wood filler is Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty.  I keep a large can in my shop and use it for all sorts of things.  It comes as a powder.  You mix it with water to your desired consistency.  Exact mixing proportions don’t seem to matter.  It is odorless and sands well.  Being a powder, shelf life or hardening in the can is not a concern.  It is readily available in home improvement and hardware stores.  It is inexpensive.

 

I have no connection to the company.

 

Roger

[DaveBaxt]

On 11/9/2020 at 5:56 PM, Roger Pellett said:

My favorite wood filler is Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty.  I keep a large can in my shop and use it for all sorts of things.  It comes as a powder.  You mix it with water to your desired consistency.  Exact mixing proportions don’t seem to matter.  It is odorless and sands well.  Being a powder, shelf life or hardening in the can is not a concern.  It is readily available in home improvement and hardware stores.  It is inexpensive.

 

I have no connection to the company.

 

Roger

Roger if I may ask what is Durham water putty like for sanding and painting? I like the idea of just mixing what you use. Sorry for asking a question on someone else post.I not sure if this is allowed.

[Roger Pellett]

Hi Dave,

 

It sands and paints well and doesn’t interact with paint, acrylic or otherwise. It’s an odorless powder and mixes with water.  I just put some in a small container and add water.  The amount of water added does not seem to affect its curing.  If it’s too runny, I just add a little more powder.

 

Roger

[jdowney]

On 1/8/2021 at 11:31 AM, Roger Pellett said:

Hi Dave,

 

It sands and paints well and doesn’t interact with paint, acrylic or otherwise. It’s an odorless powder and mixes with water.  I just put some in a small container and add water.  The amount of water added does not seem to affect its curing.  If it’s too runny, I just add a little more powder.

 

Roger

I'll second the plug for Durhams, it is really handy stuff to have around.  I would be a little hesitant to put it over something glued with super glue (water breaks down super glue) but the putty hardens quickly so probably the water in it would be gone long before harming super glue.  I'd use it over PVA without a concern.

 

I used to use it for groundwork on dioramas - I forget where I read about doing that, a book or magazine no doubt.  The method was to sift dry putty powder onto a smooth, wet putty substrate, then once dry paint, dry brushing and static grass would complete the job for a very realistic look.  One might be able to do something similar for modeling waves and foam perhaps.

 

I still keep Durhams around for puttying nail holes and such, it can be tinted with water based dye to better match the wood (not good enough for modeling, but good for molding work in a house).  Its the sort of product that you can keep indefinitely and for which you keep finding uses. 

 

No affiliation of course.

[henry x]

Has anyone successfully used home made wood filler as mentioned by allanyed #3 I.e sawdust from the wood you are using PVA and water. I am using oak planks but I'm only half way there but nice to know in advance if the worst comes to the worst I intend to use oak wood strip already glued that you just iron on for second planking if needed

 

Henry x

[barkeater]

I've make my own wood filler using saw dust and PVA all the time. It works great. I recommend this method over commercial fillers anywhere the area will be seen on the finished model. Because it matches the color of the wood you are using it blends right in and hides any gap well. I do use commercial filler for my first planking because this will not be seen and it is easier to just get it out of a can or tube.

Rich

[henry x]

Rich how much saw dust to PVA to water I assume water is used to thin it out or is it not required

 

Henry x

Edited February 6, 2021 by henry x

[Jaager]

3 minutes ago, henry x said:

Rich how much saw dust to PVA to water I assume water is used to thin it out or is it not required

While I prefer yellow PVA with water resistant additives -  Titebond II for wood to wood, it dries amber, so mixing it with wood flour for a filler will produce a patch that is a darker shade.

White PVA dries clear. So for homemade filler, this is a better choice.

No water.  Fresh PVA.  Too much wood - it is stiff and crumbly - it needs a workable consistency -  too little wood and it is just a clear plastic with wood salted in. 

A more interesting variable is the particle size of the wood flour.  220 grit is probably about small enough and 80 grit is probably a size too large. I suggest  wood flour in the 100-220 range. 

[henry x]

Jaager

Many thanks for that info, left side not too bad right side rubbish still early days

 

Henry x

Edited February 6, 2021 by henry x

[barkeater]

I use Elmer's carpenter wood glue. I take the piece of wood I'm matching and use a file to make saw dust onto a piece of wax paper. Then I take a tooth pick, dip it into the glue and roll it around in the dust. I then pack this into the gap with the toothpick. Then I smooth out the surface with my finger or a scalpel blade. Let it dry and sand it smooth.

Rich