USS Constitution by ERS Rich - Model Shipways - 5/32

[GuntherMT]

Quite the stash you have there!

 

[ERS Rich]

On 5/27/2021 at 11:32 PM, GuntherMT said:

Quite the stash you have there!

 

Hello GuntherMT!

 

Yes, quite a few kits to build.....collected for quite a few years while in corporate....

Here’s the other half......

 

Constitution may be the last plank on frame, at least for awhile.  It’s a colossus of planking.  Completed Belt A this week, port and starboard together are about 90 planks, this week it took from Tuesday to Friday to complete the Port side.

 

Thinking, ok I know how to plank, so going forward go with solid hull, which allows more time for topside work.

 

Bluejacket Maine and Olympia are on my mind.....though they appear to be a colossus of photo etch.....

 

Also have a vintage Newsboy kit....interesting as it is schooner rigged with a square rigged foremast.

 

Stay tuned and thanks for checking in....

 

 

 

 

 

[ERS Rich]

Belt A Installation - Starboard Side

 

Belt A consists of about 90 planks, 45 per side.
 

As before for the Wales, used the plan to mark the belt widths on the bulkheads.  The max plank width is 1/8”, the kit given stock is slightly over sized so needed to rip it down to 1/8”.  As with the Wales full width planks are used from bulkheads E through M.

 

A construction paper pattern was made of the stem curve, from the billet holding the stem piece.  The pattern was used to mark the belt width on the stem.

 

Again the proportional dividers were used to mark the planks for tapering.  
 

The wood template for the bow curve (made earlier) was used to bend the bow and stem planks after a soak.  An electric steam kettle was used as a source of steam to bend the slight curves in the planks coming off amidships.

 

A smooth run amidships is easy.

 

Looking for “sameness” from port to starboard sides at the bow and stern.  Pretty close at the bow, a little off at the stern.  For me I need to pay attention to tapered plank width, have a tendency to leave them over wide.

 

Onward to Belt B, interesting as will be covering the remainder of the counter, and rounding the corner to the Sternpost.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich
Formatting

[JSGerson]

I’m just a little ahead of you in my planking attempt of my Conny. I didn’t have much luck (or skill?) using the proportional dividers. I could never get them lock with the center screw knob once I took a measurement. The arms moved too easily. I could not convince myself that proportional measurement was accurate, but that’s another story. Instead, I worked with the five-plank band as described by Mr. Hunt, temporarily laying the fifth plank and marking the line it created as it wrapped around the hull. Then at each bulkhead I measured the distance from the last plank laid in the previous band to the line and divide by 5 and recorded the width. I did this for each bulkhead. On each plank, I marked where the bulkhead was and using a micrometer and sandpaper, each plank was sanded to its proper width at every bulkhead position. The dividers would have made it much easier, but I just couldn’t get a consistent result. I will be glad when this portion is finished. Or course there is the copper plating, the cannons and their rigging… 8-)

[ERS Rich]

1 hour ago, JSGerson said:

I’m just a little ahead of you in my planking attempt of my Conny....

Hello JS,

 

Using the guide from Mr Hunt as well.  It’s fielders choice here, went with the dividers because have a pair purchased years ago, have not had a problem with tightness.  As you say. marked the plank width at each bulkhead.  Prefer removing the material with an upside down hand plane in a vise, it’s like a mini joiner.  Found the difficulty with this is it’s easy for the cut to become a bevel along the tapered edge rather then a right angle.  I use a sanding block to square the edge to a right angle.

 

Mr. Hunt’s method is good.  I have the whole set, and have built the Armed Virginia sloop and Pride of Baltimore with them.  

 

I’m deviating from the guide by doing all the hull planking before the deck.  Plan is paint for the hull and bulkheads.  Deck will be pine stain.  I don’t like the brown/black stain for the deck. 

 

I’m going to prime with a light coat of rattle can shellac for an initial seal, take care of imperfections, a light rub down with steel wool, then airbrush, with an Iwata RG-3L HVLP mini gun, a coat or two of artist acrylic gesso.  Artists use gesso to prime canvas.

 

Since I have a Caldercraft Snake kit with copper plates....will paint the copper, again with the minigun, Tamiya acrylic.

 

The advantage of the mini gun is it lays down a high volume of paint - a wet coat yielding a smooth finish.  See Paul Budzik on Youtube.

 

Thanks for getting in touch!

[ERS Rich]

Forming the Forward Planks
 

Planks along the forward end to the stem need to be formed with a bend and twist, just as the planks on the aft end to the stern.

 

Planks were first bent into a curve with the bow cedar form.  Picture 1 shows the form and a handful of planks after forming.

 

A plank is then given a short soak, and steamed to reduce the moisture.  Next the hull itself is used as a form by clamping the pliable plank along the forward end, and allowed to dry thus establishing the twist, Picture 2.  The forward end of the plank is tapered and set in the rabbet.
 

Later, when dry, this plank will be cut to length and tapered.

[ERS Rich]

Belt B Installation - Starboard Side

 

Starboard Side Belt B just about complete.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich

[JSGerson]

You are moving right along, much faster than me. Looking at your third picture (the full hull upside down), it appeared to me that your strakes have a wave, dipping towards the keel and then rising again. You might want to verify the width calculations of you planks so that when you get to the keel, it's nice and straight. As I was planking the belts on my model, I recalculated the plank widths each time I started a new belt. They did change a bit due to how well I made the planks and installed them.

[ERS Rich]

Yes there is a wave...because I lost focus and failed to reduce the width on the first few plank aft ends after rounding the corner from the counter to the stern post.

 

And it looks like a mis-mark at bulkhead P.

 

Working fast....

 

Let’s see if I can compensate for the errors when installing belt C.

 

Edited June 3, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Belt C Installation - Starboard Side

 

As before, use the plan to transfer the location of the bottom of Belt C, in relation to the bottom of the wale, to each bulkhead, the stem, and stern post.  Picture 2 tries to show the pencil marks on the bulkheads.

 

On my model the widest part of Belt C is bulkhead F.  Belt width is less on all other bulkheads.  Belt C will be 9 planks wide along the entire length.
 

An ongoing problem has been my tendency to leave the planks going into the stem and stern post rabbets a little wide.  
 

Also the mark for the bottom of Belt B at bulkhead P was off, hence a slight up wave at P, noticed this after about strake 6 in Belt B, by this time it was too late to compensate - Picture 3.

 

Actually don’t mind making and fixing the mistakes - for the experience.  Especially when they will not effect the appearance of the model.

 

After all the work so far, feel confident that I can make a plank into any shape required.

 

Given that the belt is widest in one location, bulkhead F, even wider than bulkhead P, there will be enough width to compensate for the wave.

 

Lets see how it goes with Belt C.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Switching to shaping planks with the Oscillating Spindle Sander.

 

 

[ERS Rich]

Belt C Complete - Starboard Side

 

Completed Belt C on the starboard side.  
 

Satisfied with the run of the planking and was able to compensate for the Belt B errors with the proportional dividers.

 

I’m going to install Belt D to complete the starboard side planking.  
 

The task is becoming routine.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich

[JSGerson]

Nice recovery on the planking; it's looking great now. What's better, is that the black paint and copper plating will completely cover up the planking lines and no one will ever know.

 

I noticed that the bottom of the wale has not been blended into hull yet. Were you planning on doing that after the hull planking is completed? I did mine as I was it stalling it. My hull is almost fully planked. I've got about three rows left on the starboard side. 

[ERS Rich]

On 6/13/2021 at 12:16 PM, JSGerson said:

Nice recovery on the planking; it's looking great now.

Hi JS,

 

Thanks….it’s all about making mistakes and dealing with them….they happen all of the time.

 

I’ve been blending a little as I go, thought is to deal with the wale after completing all the planking.

 

Will end this log after installing Belt D.  And if you don’t mind, will include a link to your log.

 

Going forward I’ll post pictures of my Constitution after major milestones, rather than construction steps, to avoid redundancy.

 

Good to hear from you.

[JSGerson]

No problem posting a link to my log. I kinda wish you would maintain your log. Seeing how other builders deal with problems and the solutions they come up with is the main reason I read everyone else's logs. If it's real time (as opposed to milestones), we the readers, can offer immediate solutions or even better, prevent you from making mistakes. I've learn so much that way. Still, I look forward to all your future posts.

[Ryland Craze]

6 hours ago, ERS Rich said:

Will end this log after installing Belt D.  And if you don’t mind, will include a link to your log.

 

Going forward I’ll post pictures of my Constitution after major milestones, rather than construction steps, to avoid redundancy.

I hope you will continue your build log.  It is an excellent resource for current and future builders of this kit.  You have done an excellent job on building this model and your build log is well documented.

[ERS Rich]

Belt D Installation - Starboard Side

 

Belt D base plank width is wider 3/16” vs 1/8” for Belts A, B, and C.

 

This belt is much easier to install along the stern.  First picture shows the open area for the last plank.  Notice the plank along side the keel is already installed.  Seems easier to fit the last plank between two planks rather than a plank and the keel.
 

Next three pictures show the run of the planking and the last picture tries to show the plank width difference between Belt D and the others.

 

Some smoothing has been done, more to go, it’s a job I like to do in stages.

 

Thanks all for the encouraging words.  Much appreciated.  So let’s keep this log going…

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Belt B - Port Side, Marking the Belt Width

 

First step is to mark the width of the belt.  The plan provides all the needed information.  One just needs to know how to find and use it.

The first picture shows the Hull Planking Layout which provides the belt width at each bulkhead.  The job is to measure the width at each bulkhead on the plan and transfer the dimension to the model by making a deep impression on the bulkhead with the divider.  The impression is marked with a pencil.

 

The measured width is between the bottom of the wale to the bottom of Belt B.

 

The result is a series of dots on the bulkheads which I try to show with Pictures 2 and 3.

 

A problem on the starboard side was unclear marks which led to some errors.  So this time making sure they are crisp and clear.

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Dealing with Butt Joint Gaps

 

Occasionally I’ve had a plank come up short after tapering, usually at the bow or stern.

 

To fix, taper the thickness of a plank at the end, and insert vertically into the gap, the plank acts as a plug.

 

Picture 1 shows the plank, on the left with it’s end in the gap.

 

Picture 2 shows the plug, after the plank has been cutoff flush.

 

Will be invisible after priming and painting.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich

[JSGerson]

Too many jokes about butt cracks...so I won't 😁

[ERS Rich]

2 hours ago, JSGerson said:

Too many jokes about butt cracks...so I won't 😁

Ha!  Knew quit a few when I was in the Nav….can’t think of a one at the moment….this is a “family” forum though…..

[ERS Rich]

Using Proportional Dividers

 

Proportional dividers are an instrument used to divide a line or a circle into equal segments.

 

Here we are using them at each bulkhead to determine the width of a plank at that bulkhead.

 

Belt B, and all the belts are 9 planks wide.  So we set the divider at 9 for the first strake in Belt B, 8 for the second strake in Belt B, and so on.

What about the curvature of the bulkhead, since the dividers measure a straight line?  The dividers will compensate for that as the set point decreases from 9 to 8 to 7, etc.; and the measured distance along the bulkhead decreases.  It’s automatic.

The first picture shows measuring the distance from the bottom of Belt A to the mark indicating the bottom of Belt B.

 

Next picture two shows the dividers flipped and being used to mark the width on the plank at the bulkhead - the plank spans 4 bulkheads.  Repeat until all the widths are marked on the plank.  Color the marks with a pencil.
 

Last the waste material is removed by moving the plank along the bed of hand plane upside down in a vise.  Be careful to keep the plank perpendicular to the bed unless a bevel is needed.

 

At the stern we want 4 1/2 planks to span the horizontal counter and same for the vertical stern post.  So set the dividers to 4 1/2 when measuring these widths.  See last picture.

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Plank Glue Up

 

After getting tired of applying glue to a plank in my hand, came up with this method - apply glue to the previous plank on the model.

Picture 1 shows applying the glue with a toothpick.  
 

Picture 2 shows a dot of Locktite Super Glue Gel Control on each bulkhead, and plank in position.

 

Picture 3 shows plank installed - nice and tight.  
 

Left out wiping excess with my finger…..

 

[JeffT]

Thats how I like to apply glue. Less messy that way

[Avi]

Wow what a build! I love the details. I’m doing a bluejacket Connie right now, so looking at how others are building different models. I love your detailed techniques. 
 

she’s coming along beautifully!

[Tidbinbilla]

That's the method I used and it worked really well...

 

[ERS Rich]

Completion of Port Side Planking

 

Finished up the port side planking.  And made a few passes with the tools shown in the first picture to level the planking.  

When leveling the planks, keep in mind the woodworking concept of Coarse, Medium, and Fine.  Chris Schwartz, a master furniture maker, discusses the concept in his woodworking training material, available on his website or YouTube.  It’s a consistent time saving approach.
 

Start with coarse tools: the flat and half round files to remove large amounts of material.  The half round file gets you into the stem and stern curves.  Files will give a fairly smooth finish alone.  Medium follows with 150 grit sand paper.  Fine is last, 220 grit.  Always use a sanding block or dowel.

 

The leveling operation easily takes several hours.  So I like to spend an hour or so, take break, and so forth.  If you’ve done a good job installing the planks, nice and tight, not much gap filling will be needed.  I have a few problem areas that I’ll fill with carpenters glue or plastic wood.

Also each plank needs to be glued to it’s neighbor, other wise a plank will flex, making it difficult to file or sand.

 

Overall I’m happy with the result, learned a lot, and found my weakness was paying attention to the tapering at the stern, to get a gentle sweep up into the counter.  And I learned how to to understand and follow the planking plan, with 9 planks in each belt. 
 

Happy Independence day!

 

[ERS Rich]

On 6/21/2021 at 1:16 AM, Avi said:

Wow what a build! I love the details. I’m doing a bluejacket Connie right now, so looking at how others are building different models. I love your detailed techniques. 
 

she’s coming along beautifully!

Hi Avi, thank you.  Trying to keep it simple.  Cheers!

[ERS Rich]

A Couple of Problems

 

Found a few problems while regrouping and thinking of the next steps.

 

Notice in the picture below a section of the bulkhead is missing.  It snapped off sometime in the last few weeks during planking.  Funny it’s a big piece, searched the shop floor and can’t find it.  No big deal just a rebuild.

 

More significant is the fifth gunport from the stern between bulkheads M and N.  It’s out of position on both sides.  Tight up against bulkhead N.  The problem is it will interfere with a chain plate. 
 

Major surgery to relocate it into the correct position.  I’ll leave it and deal with it later.  See if the cannon interferes, and if it does, close the port lids.

 

Such is life….

Edited July 3, 2021 by ERS Rich
Grammar

[JSGerson]

Beautifully done. Don't feel bad about the gun port positioning error, I did something similar on the spar deck gun ports when I was framing them out. It is easy to get confused when looking a bare framing. You can lose sight as to which side of the frame the opening is suppose to be. You and I are at the point in planking and I've got to say yours looks a whole lot nicer even though mine took a whole more time. At this point I suspect I'll be following you. I still have to complete the gun deck interior, a feature I elected to add, which you don't have to deal with.