USS Constitution by ERS Rich - Model Shipways - 5/32

[ERS Rich]

56 minutes ago, JSGerson said:

Beautifully done.

Thanks JS.  

I’m slightly dyslexic and have had a hard time following the parts of the practicum with dimensions in the text, and comparing to the plans.

 

You may be ahead, skipped some parts of the practicum and jumped ahead in the practicum to finish the hull planking first.  Plan to checkout how you did the stern galleries for tips.  And I may wait to see how you do the head. 😎

 

First thought was to finish the entire hull less the deck (to avoid masking the deck), then paint the hull and bulwarks, then install the deck.  

 

Today I’m thinking install the deck planks, finish the entire hull, then mask and paint.  

The missing bulwark is bugging me, of course it will turn up once the new piece is installed….

Cheers

 

[JSGerson]

This is my second build using Mr. Hunt's practicum. The first time (Rattlesnake), I followed it almost religiously being a complete novice. After a while I noticed minor errors and omissions in the practicum. I believe he originally posted the practicum as he was building the model and was working with deadlines. Near the end, you could tell he was cutting corners. This was before I had discovered ModelShipWorld.com and other websites. To his credit, I could not have built that model or this one without his help and he did state that his methods were not necessarily the only/best way to do things.

 

Therefore, on this build, I use his practicum as a skeletal framework guide. I check with other build logs and choose what I believe is the best sequence and methods for my skills. So like you, I have jumped around from section to section in his practicum using his guidance when and where needed.

 

Right now I'm thinking of holding off painting and coppering until after I install the the stem ornamentations and quarter galleries or maybe not, I haven't decided. I do want to paint the upper hull before I work on the gun deck interior. First I have to touch up the spar deck hull walls a bit better.

[ERS Rich]

4 hours ago, JSGerson said:

Right now I'm thinking of holding off painting and coppering until after I install the the stem ornamentations and quarter galleries or maybe not, I haven't decided. I do want to paint the upper hull before I work on the gun deck interior. First I have to touch up the spar deck hull walls a bit better.

Yes, arrived at the same conclusion regarding the Practicum.

 

Decided that before painting the hull, to install all the hull components: channels, stern decorations, steps, cleats, bulwark hardware for the cannon blocks.  And last, the galleries.  The idea is to avoid glueing parts on painted surfaces.  
 

Happy Independence Day!

[ERS Rich]

USS Constitution Pictures

 

Pictures taken a couple of weeks ago.  She cruised Boston Harbor that day, aboard were First Responders and Healthcare Workers chosen by lottery.

 

 

Edited July 21, 2021 by ERS Rich

[JSGerson]

Great shots; I'm adding them to my photo library. The last time I visited the ship was just before her last restoration, Thanksgiving 2014. It felt good to visit her and my old stomping grounds. I grew up in the Boston area. I left in the late 70's.

[Sea Hoss]

Great pictures! They give you a real perspective of the scale of the thing! The patina of the guns and carriages is eye opening. Also, I didn't realize that the deck was so dark. I will keep all this in mind when and if I build a (another) Connie, thanks.

[ERS Rich]

Installing Eyebolts for Carronade Tackle - Sill

 

About 100 eyebolts need to be installed, in the first board above the waterway, for the carronades and associated tackle to attach to.

 

First made a template drill guide with a board and using the plan.  Marked the board at bolt locations on the plan and drilled holes in the board.  Picture 1.

 

Next drilled a hole in the sill centered on the gunport.  Located the template board on the sill with an eyebolt and used the board as a guide to drill the remaining holes on either side of the gunport.  Picture 2.

 

Cut the eyebolts to length using a board with a width corresponding to the length of the bolt desired.  Picture 3.

 

Last, picture 4 shows the first set of eyebolts installed.

Edited July 21, 2021 by ERS Rich

[JeffT]

I'm having flashbacks 😀 Nice idea on the template.

[ERS Rich]

Installing Eyebolts for Carronade Tackle - Bulkhead

 

There are two eyebolts on either side of the gunport, located in the middle of the second plank above the sill.

 

Another drill guide template was made using a 1/2” wide block with two planks glued to the front.

 

The picture shows the drill guide in use and some of the eyebolts already installed.

 

 

[ERS Rich]

Installing Large Inboard Bulkhead Cleats

 

Upgraded with Syren Ship Model Company cleats, rather than fabricating.  
 

Removed cleats from billet and rounded over with a flexi file.  Picture 1.

 

Next made a jig and drilled a hole with Foredom drill press.  Picture 2.

 

Picture 3 shows cleats with left over eyebolt tails, see last post, glued in holes.

 

Again used the board with a hole drilled in it to size the pin and cutoff with flush cutter.  Picture 4.

 

Picture 5 shows a cleat installed in a hole drilled in the second board above the sill.
 

 

 

[ERS Rich]

Installing Small Inboard Bulkhead Cleats

 

Rather than making cleats, upgraded with cleats from the Syren Ship Model Company.

 

The process is the same as the large cleats - with the addition of a jig to hold the small cleats.

 

The first picture shows the jig, holding 5 cleats, bottoms up.

 

Next we need to flatten the bottom so the drill bit does not wander across the surface.  Picture 2 shows the bottoms being flattened with the Lie-Nielson pattern file.

 

Picture 3 shows holes being drilled with the Foredom drill press with a 1/64” bit.

 

Again eyebolt tails are inserted and glued in the holes.  Picture 4.

 

Last picture shows a cleat installed - it’s to the right of the large cleat.
 

[ERS Rich]

Fitting the Cathead

 

For this task the waterway needs to be cut and the rough bulkhead penetration needs to be finished.

 

First make a pencil mark on the waterway on each side of the cathead.  Picture 1.

 

Next drill relief holes in the waste and saw to connect the holes.  Pictures 2 and 3.

 

Also use the saw to cut along the top of the pencil line to establish the final edge.

 

Now it’s a matter of carefully removing the waste.  The challenge is not to beat up the edges, we want crisp corners.  Picture 5 shows the opening.

 

Tools used are Tamiya Fine Craft Saws, Fishtail file, and the pattern file.  Once fitted, the lower edge of the top board on the outboard side was careful filed to establish the final angle of the cathead.

 

You know you are there when the outboard face of the cathead is vertical and the inboard end is just past the inboard edge of the waterway.  Pictures 6 and 7.

 

 

Edited July 29, 2021 by ERS Rich

[Bill Morrison]

Excellent job so far! Very impressive!  I do have one question; what is the practicum that you reference and what is its source?

 

Bill

[ERS Rich]

1 hour ago, Bill Morrison said:

Excellent job so far! Very impressive!  I do have one question; what is the practicum that you reference and what is its source?

 

Bill

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the kind words.
 

The references are listed in the Introduction, the first post.  Followed the College of Model Shipbuilding Guide until about Chapter 4.  Then jumped to Chapter 6 to complete the lower hull planking.

 

And I’ve added some techniques I’ve thought of or learned as a cabinet maker.

 

Your question gives me a chance to explain what’s ahead.

 

Going forward, following a sequence I’ve developed over several projects, the general roadmap is:

• fit out inner bulwarks
• paint inner bulwarks
• plank the deck/install deck furniture
• fit out outer hull: stern galleries, head
• paint outer hull
• main rail/upper bulwarks
• masts/bowsprit
• rigging

Nothing wrong with the sequence in the practicum, just want to do it in such a way that all parts are installed in an area before painting that area.

 

Edited July 31, 2021 by ERS Rich
Grammar

[Bill Morrison]

13 hours ago, ERS Rich said:

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the kind words.
 

The references are listed in the Introduction, the first post.  Followed the College of Model Shipbuilding Guide until about Chapter 4.  Then jumped to Chapter 6 to complete the lower hull planking.

 

And I’ve added some techniques I’ve thought of or learned as a cabinet maker.

 

Your question gives me a chance to explain what’s ahead.

 

Going forward, following a sequence I’ve developed over several projects, the general roadmap is:

• fit out inner bulwarks
• paint inner bulwarks
• plank the deck/install deck furniture
• fit out outer hull: stern galleries, head
• paint outer hull
• main rail/upper bulwarks
• masts/bowsprit
• rigging

Nothing wrong with the sequence in the practicum, just want to do it in such a way that all parts are installed in an area before painting that area.

 

Thank you. However, I am curious about the practicum itself since I have never heard of it.  Is it available commercially?  If so, where?

Thanks!

Bill

[ERS Rich]

Checkout: https://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/home

 

Cheers!

[Bill Morrison]

Thank you!  I looked over that site and watched/read several of the sample practicums.  They seem interesting and helpful.

 

Bill

[ERS Rich]

2 hours ago, Bill Morrison said:

Thank you!  I looked over that site and watched/read several of the sample practicums.  They seem interesting and helpful.

Hi Bill,

 

Highly recommend the Armed Virginia Sloop practicum and the Model Shipways kit.  Liked the larger scale and the practicum is particularly detailed about both standing and running rigging.

[ERS Rich]

Painting the Bulwarks
 

Hit the bulwarks with a light coat of rattle can shellac.  Brushed the surface with a stiff bristle brush to remove the fuzzies.

 

Color coat is Tamiya Dark Green XF-26, with Tamiya Paint Retarder, applied with a Paasch Talon airbrush @25 psi.  
 

 

Edited September 17, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Cleaning up the Dust

 

Inevitably there will be dust.  The airbrush kicked up some dust from inside the hull, and from between the inner and outer bulkhead boards.  
 

The acrylic surface is forgiving and can be worked with a stiff brush and fine grit sand paper.

 

Hold a stiff brush perpendicular to the surface and work across the surface.  A flexi-file with fine grit is used across the gunport sills.

 

A toothpick can be used to get into the corners.

 

Touch up with a brush.

 

 

[JSGerson]

I was surprised to see you paint over all of the cleats and other hardware. Did you want them green?

[ERS Rich]

On 8/5/2021 at 11:21 AM, JSGerson said:

I was surprised to see you paint over all of the cleats and other hardware. Did you want them green?

Hi JS,

 

Later will paint black with a brush....

 

After trying many ways to blacken copper, decided painting is easier....

 

Thanks

[ERS Rich]

Finishing and Installing Deck Grates

 

The coamings are made of Hickory so decided to finish with Watco Tung Oil.  Applied the oil, a wet coat, and wiped after a little while - to avoid dried pools of oil, 5 coats total.

 

Next is installation where Fore/Aft, Port/Starboard alignment has always been a challenge for me.

 

So……

 

First drilled a hole in each corner with the Foredom drill press.

 

Then tapped a pin nail through a spacing board into the hole, and flush cut the nail.  Now the coaming has 4 posts of equal height.

 

Locating the coaming relative to the nearest forward bulkhead, so measured the distance on the plan with dividers and transferred to the model.

 

Placed the coaming in it’s location and press down to make an imprint, and drill the holes

 

Last picture shows coaming installed.

 

Important!  Do not glue the coamings.  After planking the deck, they will be removed so a template can be used to mark the locations of deck penetrations for the Boom Traveller and Ammo Passing Scuttles, etc.

 

Edited August 9, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Deck Plank Stock Preparation

 

The deck planks are finished with a three step process.

 

First planks were stained with Varathane Ipswich Pine, applied with a cotton swab.  The swab was held stationary while the plank, against a board, was pulled through.

 

Next the planks were sealed with Teak Oil, applied with a plastic bristle brush, again the plank was pulled through the brush with the plank against the board.

 

Finally a notch was sawn through the board edge, and planks were pulled through with a sharpie pressed against the plank edge.

 

Last picture shows the finished product.

 

Edited August 23, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Planking the Deck - Part 1

 

Planking from the centerline out.  There is a plank that runs along the centerline.  First part is to install the same number of planks on each side of the center plank, to reach just inside the outer side of each coaming.

 

First measured between two hatches and cut the number of boards required - 5 in this case on the table saw.

 

Next glued up the boards, using a board to help with alignment.

 

Then an easy matter to trim the ends on the table saw.  Pictures 1, 2, and 3.

Pictures 4, 5, and 6 show coverage between each coaming.

 

[JSGerson]

Very nicely done. I know the Byrne's saw is a thing of beauty, but didn't know it could cut those small pieces with such s large toothed blade. Anything that delicate, I always switch to my finest tooth blade. Maybe it's because you got the sliding table attachment? I don't have that one. 

 

Jon

[ERS Rich]

7 hours ago, JSGerson said:

Very nicely done. I know the Byrne's saw is a thing of beauty, but didn't know it could cut those small pieces with such s large toothed blade. Anything that delicate, I always switch to my finest tooth blade. Maybe it's because you got the sliding table attachment? I don't have that one. 

Good Morning JS,

 

Good question, had to look at what I bought, and have a fine tooth blade, but forgot about it and have been going with the first blade I put in the saw.  

 

Found best to cut slowly, to avoid tear out at the end of the cut.  Especially with pine.
 

A couple of details for the new comer when making the cuts.  First cut the right side, then slide piece along the fence and cut the left side.  Keep the same edge against the fence.

 

Use a block to hold down the piece, I like my finger tips!  
 

The sliding table, for me, is essential for safe square cuts of small pieces.  

 

Edited August 11, 2021 by ERS Rich
Grammar

[ERS Rich]

Planking the Deck - Part 2

 

Next is planking outward to cut notches in the planks to fit around the coamings.

 

We’ll start with fitting two planks around the last hatch aft.

 

The first 2 pictures show establishing the blade height with a couple of pieces of scrap.  Adjust the blade height, by raising the blade and making test cuts so the two boards fit equally around the coaming aft corners.

 

Once the blade height is good to go, cut two finish planks a little long and make the notches in the forward ends.  Picture 3.  Note make the notches a little long and trim the forward ends until the corner in the board fits the coaming corner.

 

Last cut the aft end of the planks to fit.

 

Edited August 12, 2021 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Planking the Deck - Part 3

 

This work is an exercise in using the table saw with the fence and stop cuts.  Detailed instruction on table saw use is beyond the scope if this log, there are plenty of free videos out there.  
 

The task at hand is to make multiple notches in a board to fit around two hatches.

 

As before start with a longer board that overlaps the end points.  Picture 1.
 

Notice we need a notch in the middle and at the aft end.  The middle notch has 2 corners and needs to be 31/32” wide to fit around the coaming, while the aft notch is open ended. and space between the notches is 49/64”.

 

The notch depth is the same as the previous post, no need to change the blade height.

 

Picture 2 shows a pencil mark to locate the forward end of the middle notch.  
 

Picture 3 shows the board on the saw with a cut at the pencil line.  And to the left, a steel rule is used to set the end stop and define the width of the cut.  Important take the blade width into account.  My first attempt resulted in an override cut because I forgot to subtract the width of the blade when setting the end stop.

 

Also set up the end stop a little short, then sneak up on the final cut.

 

The aft notch is done in a similar manner.

 

Picture 4 shows the board after cutting with it’s end up against the stop.

 

Picture 5 shows the board in position, with the two notches.

 

Last is to cut the overlapping forward and aft ends to fit, make a mark with an X-Acto and cut to the mark on the table saw.  Picture 6.

 

Picture 7 shows the final result.

 

[ERS Rich]

Planking the Deck - Part 4

 

Just a few shots - almost complete.

 

 

Edited August 23, 2021 by ERS Rich