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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Some more done on Le Rochefort.

 

Taking the advice given I made some pads for the gudgeons on the un-planked side and also recessed them further into the stern post.  Great advice as they definitely look and fit better.  I did make a real mess of the recesses though - Now I know what I know I would mill these when making the stern post in the future.  It would make the process much easier and tidier.  I don't think these pieces are my best work and the rudder does sit slightly high but I've learnt a lot during the process.

 

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A picture of the ship with the rudder fitted

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The next part to make was the tiller arm which is quite a prominent part so it needed to be as accurate as possible.  I made the arm and the knob on the end separately and used a treenail to help get a good bond between the two parts. 

 

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I also straightened up the metal banding around the rudder to make it all look a bit better.

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Another little milestone in my build is now complete.  I am so tempted to now finish off the stern and fit the railings and taff rail but I know that they will get broken at some point.  So instead I will resist this and make the main hatches and the pumps.

 

Thanks for the help

 

Mark

Posted
50 minutes ago, Yves 56 said:

excellent work.

What is the fabric of your milling machine?

 

Yves

Hi Yves I'm not sure what you mean by "fabric" but I think you mean who makes it?  It's a Sherline mill - Mark

Posted
5 hours ago, ChrisLBren said:

Looks wonderful Mark !  Nice work

Thanks Chris its coming along now

 

3 hours ago, druxey said:

Actually, the rudder should sit a little high; if the ship takes ground, the rudder won't get torn off.

Thats make so much sense I wouldn't have thought of that.  I would like to say that I obviously knew this which is why the rudder is a little high - but........well you know the truth of it 😁 - Mark

Posted
On 11/5/2025 at 4:57 PM, Michael Mash said:

Gorgeous clean neat work.

Thank you Michael :) 

 

I have made a start on the main hatches which are a little more tricky than they look.  Firstly I made a mistake cutting the notches on the wrong side of the sides of the hatches.  I'm sure we've all done something similar; I know that I have.  So they were consigned to the scrap bin and I started again.

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Below is a hatch base with the notches now on the correct side!  I found cutting the rebate on the curved ends challenging but I got there in the end.

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Next I made and fitted the metal corner braces - It was only after I fitted them I looked at the drawings again and they were supposed to be recessed into the base.  I have decided to leave them where they are!  I also need to get some lightweight wood filler to fill the holes that I drilled all of the way through.

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Now the fun started - trying to get the hatch tops to match the same curve as the base and also to get an all round  tight fit.

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Then the strengtheners were made and fitted.  I like making parts like this as it makes the effort of cutting notches etc worth it when it all fits so nicely together.

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Further reinforcement is added towards the side of the cover which I managed to glue in the wrong place as I misread the drawings yet again!  It's not the end of the world but removing them would cause too mush damage so I will alter the nailing to suit.

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The lifting handles were next - This is the first time I've tried triangular handles as I've never successfully made them before.  I usually make them round as I find this a lot easier but at least I've had a go.  They're not great and I would love to know how other builders make these parts?  I used a triangular file to bend the brass around but it was so fiddly and I found it difficult to get tight bends with straight sides.  I've looked at other builders efforts and they look like a perfect triangle so any help for the future would be greatly appreciated  

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I still need to get the nailing done which always takes me a while and then get them fitted onto the main deck.

 

Thanks for all of the comments  - Mark

 

Posted

Well done so far!

 

Triangular ringbolts? Yes, they are tricky. I cut a hardwood stick to the inside dimensions and drill a small hole through. One end of the wire, well annealed, is inserted in the drilled hole and the wire wrapped tightly around the stick. The assembly is then held securely in a soft jawed vise. (I use disposable pieces of illustration board, rubber cemented in place.) The rings are parted off using a fine jewelers' saw blade. The tiny gap in each rig is closed up and optionally soldered.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted
1 hour ago, druxey said:

Well done so far!

 

Triangular ringbolts? Yes, they are tricky. I cut a hardwood stick to the inside dimensions and drill a small hole through. One end of the wire, well annealed, is inserted in the drilled hole and the wire wrapped tightly around the stick. The assembly is then held securely in a soft jawed vise. (I use disposable pieces of illustration board, rubber cemented in place.) The rings are parted off using a fine jewelers' saw blade. The tiny gap in each rig is closed up and optionally soldered.

Thanks druxey that’s genius I’m going to give this a go and see how I get on. I appreciate the help 👍

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