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Viking Drakkar by Balclutha75 - FINISHED - Amati - 1:50 - TAKE II, First Ever Model


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  • 3 weeks later...

With the arrival of good weather I no longer want to spend much time in my backroom basement workshop. But in order to continue working I put a few items into a cardboard box so I could sit on the patio and make the oars.

 

Nothing much to report here except I learned from another build log to use tape on the dowels to reduce the chances of splitting the wood when cutting the notch. Reduce, not eliminate.

 

IMG_5435_512px.jpg.c59efb321c67ce88d748de52cd830806.jpg

 

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I've also been thinking about sail color. I bought a book from the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde about the Sea Stallion. They say, "In scaldic verses it is sometimes emphasised that the sail is coloured blue - perhaps it was considered to be a particularly prestigious colour", because of its expense.

 

On a rainy afternoon I played around on the computer and came up with this.

335292750_SailColors.JPG.21d1b2b4fa836a6bd59bfe874648357a.JPG

 

I kind of like the blue and yellow stripes in the upper left. I've purchased some Tulip fabric paint and will experiment.

 

Finally, I tried making a chest based on a link Steven has posted in other logs. It was looking reasonably OK for a first attempt at something like this, although the dimensions might be off a bit. But then I broke one of the legs off when I was sanding the corners. The wood is basswood, maybe I need something denser (?) or a steadier hand.

 

IMG_5441_512px.jpg.bf59279f780311c258a3c9ba7c1f44c7.jpg

 

 

Edited by Balclutha75
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I like the upper-left color pattern as well. It took me several tries to develop a chest style I liked and could make without messing up.

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It might b the fault of the wood you're using. I've never used basswood, but on looking it up it's described as being very good for carving, which presumably means it would be ok for making this chest. Maybe just try it again; but you could also try it in a different timber.

 

Steven

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Thanks for the encouragement.

 

cathead, I cracked open the blue paint from Tulip and looks beautiful on a practice swatch, so I'm planning to go with it. The colors in my pictures above were lifted from the Tulip website.

 

Steven, I'll try again with the basswood, now that I learned something on the first attempt. Most likely clumsiness on my part is the culprit. I'm thinking I might try to make a kettle on a tripod that you posted somewhere. We'll see how that goes. Thanks again.

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I think you're right, mate. Just have another go at it. My own workshop is littered with first attempts - it's part of the learning process.

 

Here's the tripod and cauldron for you,

 

Viking Archaeology - Oseberg 14

 

And here are the dimensions and some construction details: http://warehamforgeblog.blogspot.com/2020/04/oseberg-tripod-and-cauldron-refining.html

 

Steven

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On 6/2/2021 at 9:53 PM, Balclutha75 said:

Finally, I tried making a chest based on a link Steven has posted in other logs. It was looking reasonably OK for a first attempt at something like this, although the dimensions might be off a bit. But then I broke one of the legs off when I was sanding the corners. The wood is basswood, maybe I need something denser (?) or a steadier hand.

 

IMG_5441_512px.jpg.bf59279f780311c258a3c9ba7c1f44c7.jpg

 

 

Grain is everything when working in wood.  The grain running across the length of the end panel makes the legs vulnerable to splitting off.  I did a quick search of Viking trunks, and though I haven’t looked into it enough to speak about authenticity, it appears as if many are crafted with the grain in the end panels running vertically.  That would strengthen the legs.

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Good eye from EotL, I didn't even notice that in your photo and just assumed you were using vertical grain but snapped the delicate piece anyway. If you do rotate the grain (which is definitely the right way to go), do the sanding and shaping when the trunk is already assembled as otherwise you could still crack the piece longitudinally. With vertical grain, the trunk's floor will go across the grain and prevent that, unlike with horizontal grain where the leg just sticks out below any support.

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Thanks cathead, I read it twice to be certain but I get it. You guys are demonstrating that you can teach an old dog new tricks after all.

 

I'm still chipping away at the oars, no pun intended. I was unhappy with a couple of them and thought about ungluing the paddle so I could sand a new shaft. But then I realized I don't have to unglue them, I can simply make new paddles from the scrap sheet. Which I did, and they are indistinguishable from the laser cut pieces. You guys will laugh but to me that was a major revelation, thinking outside of pure kit mentality.

 

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  • 1 month later...

With summer activities in full swing, at least for the time being, work on the model has slowed down dramatically. My wife's garden was in a native plant tour, and that took a bit of work to prepare. But the tour is over and was successful.

 

I did purchase an Amati wood base and mounting columns. These were stained with some cherry stain I had at home. I don't have a drill press so in order to drill a straight hole through the base for the mounting columns screws I bought a Big Gator Mini Drill Guide that I found on amazon after doing some online research. I think it worked great, and I could have used it on various other home projects. Here it is sitting on the base.

 

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By hand with a pin vise I drilled holes in the top of the two columns and at corresponding locations in the keel for toothpick insertion.

 

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It's not glued yet, but it will look something like this.

 

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The oars are all carved and just waiting for me to stain them, and I've also been experimenting with painting cloth for the sails, but none of that is picture worthy.

 

Now there is some local travel on the horizon, including a big hiking trip to prepare for. I'll continue to slowly plug away here, but no need to rush for me.

 

By the way, I'm currently reading Sea of Glory by Nathaniel Philbrick, which has absolutely nothing to do with Vikings, but is an excellent book about sailors and the sea.

 

Thanks for having a look.

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In the Heart of the Sea is another good one by him. Your vessel and base go nicely together. I hope you enjoy your hiking trip.

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  • 5 months later...

When we left our hero, an autumn and summer past, he was contemplating oars and sails. Now he's back in the shipyard and the oars have been completed.

 

RX608244_768px.jpg.ef22824a8c409f2421356856d9101d73.jpg

 

There are seven different oar length, four each. I thought they should be coded somehow for quick removal when stored and stacked in cradles. I settled on a simple stripe pattern that needed only two colors plus black, easy to learn and remember.

 

RX608246_768px.jpg.73434c676a79d23334fb530845e65eb3.jpg

 

 

Next, mounting the rudder. The Amati instructions show a somewhat vague method of lashing the rudder to the top strake. I drilled a couple holes in the strake, played around with lashing and knots for a while, but was unhappy with the results.

 

I decided to make a simple wooden strap with a couple of plugs to fill in the holes.

 

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Not sure where I got this idea, perhaps cathead’s log here. I also saw similar concepts in modern reproductions and in this drawing from the Osprey book that I have, although it looks like a leather strap here.

 

RX608255_768px.jpg.b57b74054f161bdc348bbfd9886479c1.jpg

 

Mine is clunky and not elegant in comparison, consistent with the rest of my boat’s style. But I am pleased with it.

 

Next up, the sail fabric is sitting on the workbench, staring at me.

 

As an aside a book I read this summer, carried on a hiking trip, was A Voyage for Madman by Peter Nichols. It’s about the 1968 Golden Globe race to circumnavigate the earth non-stop. Although I knew much of the story, I found the book to be a real page turner, perfect for passing time around camp in the evening. Recommended.

 

 

Edited by Balclutha75
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  • 2 weeks later...

This will be a fairly uninteresting post to most folks, but I guess it's part of the journey.

 

I've been experimenting with painting stripes on sail material, and much to my surprise, it is actually possibly without bleeding the edges. I used 5mm Tamiya masking tape for the edges and the result is here on this scrap piece that is about 6x2 inches on size. (~70x170 cm).

 

RX608261_768px.jpg.166ba55e0999d5d0bd8c2f8a408411c8.jpg

 

I'm experimenting with colors, still deciding on what pattern and how many colors to use. The jury is also out about adding the diagonal strips as shown in the kit instructions. On the right the 2mm hem was folded over, ironed down and glued with Fabric Fusion glue.

 

On another piece of scrap I experimented with sewing on a bolt rope. I decided that there was no way on earth, or anywhere else for that matter, that I'd succeed in making that look good. Instead I glued the bolt rope in place with white PVA, then sewed on some periodic individual thread like this.

 

RX608262_768px.jpg.dea9be024169010a2ba49cccee7644a9.jpg

 

I believe I can make this work.

 

The good news from this is a week ago I had no idea how to construct a sail, now it feels like there is a workable path forward. Onward!

 

 

Edited by Balclutha75
Change "with" to "without"
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  • 2 weeks later...

I made an attempt at painting the actual sail, and here it is.

 

RX608267_768px.jpg.b29d0290d8d9feb975819f3e75cd3e2a.jpg

 

Unfortunately I had a little, shall we say, accident on the reverse side and will have to redo. But this will be a useful experimental piece.

 

The sail is stained with Numi Three Roots turmeric tea (with ginger, licorice & rose). This stuff will stain anything that it comes in contact with, and in fact may stain anything nearby in the room. And you can drink it.

 

The red is Vallejo number 926 red, and the blue is Slick Dimensional Fabric Paint, royal blue. That is an 18% grey cloth on the left, so the white balance in the photo should be OK.

 

I've been playing with red, yellow and blue patterns for a while but settled on the above largely due to the winter issue of Nautical Research Journal. I joined NRG a couple months ago because it seems like a good organization and I'm enjoying the hobby, regardless of my skill level. An article in the journal is of a fabulous medieval hulc by Bill Wardle. A similar color pattern is used in the sail. Thank you, Mr. Wardle.

 

 

Edited by Balclutha75
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  • 4 weeks later...

The bolt rope finally is on the sail:

 

RX608342_768px.jpg.272085c728c5bf71439a88c299cb7b26.jpg

 

In a previous post I had stated, with some confidence, that I wouldn't be able to sew the bolt rope, and was planning to glue it. That turned out to be prematurely un-optimistic . I did sew it, but instead of using a continuous stitch I simply poked holes in the hem with a dental tool, then sewed a couple of turns with the 0.5 mm kit rope.

 

RX608339_768px.jpg.91fb1b791f89a022268d8c5deeefdf8f.jpg

 

I knotted that with a half-hitch and dabbed on some diluted white glue.

 

RX608347_768px.jpg.e43c6e1511350c915421edfdcfa7e99c.jpg

 

In case you are wondering why the bolt rope itself looks so nice, it's because I ordered some from Syren Ship Model. Wow, is that nice stuff! Too nice for this model in fact, but now I know what all the buzz is about. Looking forward to using this in the future.

 

Next I have to decide on the reef points - if, what kind, how many - and attach the yard. I also have a plan to try to put some wind into the sail. Wish me luck!

 

As an aside, we are planning our semi-regular trip to warmer weather in Tucson, Arizona and in the course of planning I stumbled on this museum exhibit, "Sentinels of the Sea: Miniature Merchant Clipper Ship Figureheads by Lloyd McCaffery" at the Tucson Mini Time Machine  Museum of Miniatures.

https://theminitimemachine.org/exhibitions/sentinels-of-the-sea/

 

Looks like it will be worth checking out.

 

They also have one ship model and cannon on display:

https://theminitimemachine.org/exhibitions/hamersen-miniature-ship/

 

Maybe this is of general interest, so I also posted it in the museum news forum.

 

Thanks for having a look.

 

Edited by Balclutha75
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An exciting event: the sail is attached to the yard and temporarily raised on the mast!

 

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I'm pretty satisfied with it. I'm going to lower it because I purchased some fabric stiffener at the local Joann's, and will attempt to add some wind to the sail with it.

 

I experimented with adding reef lines, but finally decided against it. For one thing, I tried to glue on some reinforcement strips, as cathead shows here, but since my sail has been soaked in dilute PVA and painted, these strips just didn't want to stick. Finally I decided that my various trial runs on scrap pieces were just not looking, and I'd likely ruin the sail if I persisted.

 

However, my wife came down to see what I was up to, and suggested why not leave the lines at the yard hanging down? These can be used when the sail is furled.

 

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I'm thinking I'll do that. I will try to get them to hang straight once the sail is stiffened.

 

If any justification for doing this is needed, beyond modeler's choice, I found two items. First this seal, which I think is from 1297. This was posted in woodrat's log of a hulc. (I found this via a link Steven posted in another viking log.)

 

 

636326595_Dublin_(seal_1297)01.png.f55b4511894a1c879eda96615d4d2380.png.265fe219a7ded6864a0a536089c63d3d.png

 

One can imagine lines like this hanging from the yard... maybe?

 

Also, this beautiful model of a 1st century B.C. Roman ship has them:

https://www.modelships.de/Roman-trade-ship/Roman-trade-ship.htm

 

Unless there is a compelling reason not to do this, I think I'll leave them.

 

We will be leaving town next week for a road trip to Arizona and I probably won't have be back at it until April.

Thanks for having a look!

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hello and greetings from the shipyard! It's been some time since I posted. We were out of town for over a month and now I have been s.l.o.w.l.y back at it. It's good to be here.

 

The yard and sail are now rigged.

 

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In fact they were rigged twice. First I used the Amati rope. Then after I ordered more Syren rope I decided to tear it all apart and redo with much nicer Syren. The workmanship didn't improve, but the end result was better looking. The rope hangs more naturally for one thing, and of course the strands look so much nicer.

 

I added wind to the sail by hanging it horizontally from my Quad Hands tool, sprayed it with dilute white glue and put a plastic bag filled with baking flour on the sail. When it dried it had a nice looking curve. (This trick learned here on MSW, but I can't find the log now. Thanks, whoever you are!) Sorry, I didn't take a photo of this step.

 

The rope coils were made using a piece of Styrofoam with parchment paper taped to it. I could then make circles with pins, wrap the coils around the pins dab them with glue. Admiral Helga keeping any eye on the procedure.

 

IMG_1212_768px.jpg.80c4488769f177b8903c245dc622f47a.jpg

 

When the glue dries the pins are removed and the coils can be glued to the deck. I think that trick, or something similar, was from a Tom Lauria video, but I'm not sure.

 

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Overall, I'm pretty pleased with how it's turning out. 

 

Next up will be the shields. I'm not sure what I'll do with them. Should I try to do various patterns, designs, curves, or just stick with solid colors? Some experimentation will answer that.

 

Here are some shield links for thought, the first one, at least, from Steven:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/shield/shield.html

http://www.vikingage.org/wiki/index.php?title=Round_Shield_Designs#/media/File:Shields

 

Also thinking about the dragon head. I'm not happy with the cast metal one that comes with the kit, so I'm thinking of trying to carve something simple. But I've never carved anything before.  I guess this will be a good time to start!

 

Thanks for having a look.

 

IMG_1256_768px.jpg

Edited by Balclutha75
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  'Looks sharp with Syren rope ... true 'miniature' rope spun much like full-size rope (although full-sized ropewalks produce rope from the far end to the spinning head, the result from the Syren 'Rope Rocket' where the rope comes together from the middle outwards is essentially the same thing).  I've seen numerous builds on MSW, and perhaps the single best upgrade one can do on a ship with rigging is to use properly made miniature rope.  It look better, feels better, behaves better and has very little (if any) of the 'fuzz' you see on close-ups of builds using average commercial rigging (I wouldn't call it rope) ... cord.  Whether bought or self-made (with a little practice - and it's not that difficult) miniature rope won't detract from all the hours spent on the hull and other fittings - proper rope will ADD to the effect.  BTW - I love your Drakkar model.  Do you plan to add sea chests that the rowers would have sat on?

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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Snug Harbor, thanks much for your comment really appreciate it!

 

Everything you say about the Syren rope is true. I tried a few brands of rope out of curiosity, they all had fuzzies. I tried applying beeswax, which I read about, but that didn’t work. Also, I appreciated that they are in small coils instead of wound tightly, so they don’t kink like the kit rope.

 

I do plan to attempt at least a few chests and perhaps some other assorted flotsam and jetsam, maybe bales, buckets. I’ll try to strike a balance between having some stuff on deck, but not overly cluttered. We’ll see how it goes!

 

Thanks again.

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Looking good!

 

Looking forward to seeing the figurehead!

 

There’s an Intro to Carving Group here that was a fantastic resource for me!

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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13 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Looking forward to seeing the figurehead!

 

There’s an Intro to Carving Group here that was a fantastic resource for me!

Thanks much GrandpaPhil.

 

I found the intro to carving group posts, I will look into it for sure, appreciate the heads up.

https://modelshipworld.com/forum/84-build-logs-for-the-carving-group-project/

 

I found some food for thought here:

https://ucrazy.ru/interesting/1569258277-drakkary-i-dreki-vikingov-istoricheskie-fakty.html

 

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  • 2 months later...

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