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Posted

Gentlemen, after reading through this topic I ask some of you to tone down.
Henry X has found an interesting ship, he like to restore it and asking for support and help.
I am talking from my point of view but also as a moderator, He has my 100% support and like to see encouragement instead of detergent language.
We have all been in a dire situation taking on a challenge.

I like to see what he can do with this Dutch Yacht - kit or not!

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted

Ref #57 

 

CC well said

 

Only one last thing to say on the matter if people really don't like the model then they should get on to Amati they are the ones that produced the model don't direct their venom at me I am only the one with peoples help hoping to restore it.  Having got that of my chest let's just say it's now water under the bridge and move on.

 

Nirvana

Many thanks

 

Roger

Like it or not it's part of the kit.

Posted

 Henry, any updates on where you are in the cleaning stage, photos? What are your plans for the hull? Sand out the areas of chipped paint and repaint? Same color? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Keith 

Have some bad news cleaning is on hold poor wife she's fed up standing in the corner holding this thing up while i work on it. So i have promised her i will make a stand was going to use this old thing behind me not the wife the machine. Maybe quicker to make out of wood have plenty lying around nothing fancy plywood and maybe tulip wood it's only recently i received tulip wood never heard of it before i believe it came from the U.S.A. it's a hard wood don't really know what to use it for strips, bending i don't know or maybe the stand. You will see i have removed this part from the centre of the deck don't know what it is called but gives better access for cleaning the deck, regarding the hull especially the white part will have to sand it down but still a bit further to go,  colour wise will need to see the state of the hull first, the builder not too bad his planks are quite tight maybe better than mine but a couple of seams have opened up like i say a bit further to go.

 

Have tried to by plans from Backers link but it keeps coming back req field then same again and again so stuff it also tried Amati 5 euros but it's only 5 euros if your order is 20 euros or more but i'm not open to blackmail so again stuff it maybe when the time comes somebody will help.

 

Have to go supposed to be on oxygen 15hours a day, never mind there are people more worse off than me.

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Posted (edited)

 Henry, sorry to hear you need supplemental oxygen 15 hours a day. That's pretty much your whole waking period. In my case I'd have to be tethered while I slept. I'm kinda like a Hobbit and meal times when it comes to my naps....elevens, after tea time, etc etc.

 Don't sand off all that beautiful patina, that's what gives your model character. Nice to see you making progress! 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Keith

Really glad you have posted you have really stopped me regarding sanding I was going to sand it down to the bare wood and then varnish it. The dark area's you see are remnants of old varnish I am now thinking of taking it down to the lighter area's you see and leaving it at that I.e no varnish, The floor in front of the rear cabin and the steps need more cleaning  don't know what people mean when they say q-tips hear in the U.K  I'm using cotton buds maybe the same thing with the wife's nail Polish remover but you have to be quick it dries out so fast but only for removing the dirt. Then it will be turn of the inside of the hull around the deck after that I will turn my attention to the outside hull thinking where can I use my dremel ,what you said about the patina the dremel will go back in the box. With the carry on over the last few days you don't think straight and with a tube up your nose doesn't help but never mind I'm winning. Thanks for stopping me but I do really need to get on and make the stand. Everything I have removed I have taken a photo to remind where I goes so that's its so far.

 

 

Henry x

Posted (edited)

image.png.0ca61b8807318a84825468eca2464d5a.png  

 Q-tips

 

 Good on ya taking photos as you progress. I always say I'm going to but never do :blink:

 

 Regarding varnish. If it were mine, once all the sanding and cleaning was done, once any/all the painting was done, and once any repairs and wooden piece replacements done, then I'd varnish the whole kit and caboodle. I'd suggest you use a product we have here in the colonies by Minwax called Polyurethane but it's not available there in Merry Ole. Since you don't, varnish is just as good or better according to some. Varnish or poly protects wood and paint and creates a barrier against moisture. Of course, always sample test on a small unseeable area before going crazy. After varnish you can get on with the rigging. 

 

 Stand? I thought you had the missus talked into holding it :D...........yep, better go make a stand. 

 

 Oh, one other thing. That nail polish remover will remove paint. If you don't want to remove any of the paint, careful as you go. 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Henry,

 

Instead of sanding, you might try scraping it, with the grain.  A single edge razor blade works well.  This technique unlike sanding, will allow you to get right up to the edges.

 

The wood that you bought, if it came from the US is what we call Tulip Poplar.  These are large trees that grow in the Midwest.  The wood is medium hard and should work well.  The only problem that I know of is that it sometimes has a greenish tint.  This should not be a problem if you intend to paint it.

Posted

Keith

Nice to see some people still have a sense of humor yes q-tips over here they are the same, the old container are called Johnson cotton buds the new one's have gone upmarket and are now called Johnson & Johnson baby wipes  but I thought there are bit small for that,  same product. The stand is now made just typical bog standard if you see the early photos in one you will see two wood screws screwed into the keel maybe it had brass uprights and a wood plinth this one fits quite well but only temp. Have tried to set a couple of planks back in place at bottom of the hull they are edge glued something I always did will see what they look like tomorrow.

 

Roger

Yes that's what I am doing scraping, the rear cabin fwd bulkhead has come loose so I have taken it out which gives me more access to the floor in that area maybe due to my mishandling don't know . Now that you have added the word Poplar I now understand just could not see a tree or bush called Tulip many thanks.

 

Now to anyone interested, the cleaning of the hull inside above the deck is a bit problematic I was thinking of removing some the white parts, false frames not all for better access then after cleaning I can put them back, measure the distance apart first otherwise I will have to get my small 1/8" chisel out which you can all make from your old worn needle files. What are your thoughts.

 

Henry x

Posted
8 minutes ago, henry x said:

I was thinking of removing some the white parts, false frames not all for better access then after cleaning

 Henry, I think that's a rabbit hole. Once you've gone down it, then your next thought will be, "well I've gone this far, I might as well remove this/these" and before you know it you wind up with a completely disassembled model. Which isn't a problem except, how many broken bits come about in the process? If the existing pieces are well attached, clean as best you can, touch up any paint if you choose and move forward. As the ole saw goes, discretion is the better part of valor. 

 

 I support whatever path you take, I just what you to have fun with the project. Removing a large number of pieces can lead to a lot of "I wish I had left that alone" I speak from my own past experience. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

I think cleaning of the inside really now quite clean had to make an extra lift by the bucket men tons of dirt came off.  I scraped it just as Roger said using one of my Exacto sets just changing blades now and again to give me better access not 100% but i think acceptable. Now here's what i'm up against the hull at the bow some nasty splits have no option but to use filler the other planks that were sprung open a bit have manage to glue and reset them. When i complete that i'll go back inside and start to re-assemble. Both side affected.

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Posted (edited)

Just a few more pics that might interest some of you the second photo to some Dutchmen (the name plate ) is worth a million dollars the last two the figurehead on the stem the last one you will see a glue spot on the stem i think there was a bracket of some sort holding the bowsprit hoping one of you out there can help. If there is still doubters out there let me say this is not a rare kit this is a VERY RARE KIT.

 

seems the picts  have come out in the wrong order

 

Henry x

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Edited by henry x
Posted
1 hour ago, henry x said:

i think there was a bracket of some sort holding the bowsprit hoping one of you out there can help.

image.png.b8f004586256ab31e8940173f25f28a2.png

 

I don't know if this will help, but on the Mamoli Yacht Mary, the bowsprit is set up to the side of the stem with gammoning  going to a metal fitting that should be easy to fabricate.  I will get you a shot of the plans later where it will be easier to see.

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted

Gregory

Many thanks for your kind offer I think that will help, on your model just fwd of the windlass the column has Mary's head on it, on this model it has the ship's bell and just fwd of that again in my model there was two glue spots on the deck which I think held square posts with a thick plank in between the rear attachment for the bowsprit can't remember but might be similar to that of the Mary. Have had a look on the Amati site and something's do jog my memory will go back and see if they have an online catalogue.

Thanks again

 

Henry x

Posted

 Henry, do you have the original bowsprit or do you need to make a new one? Regarding the hull, you may want to consider some light sanding to knock down the high points staying clear of any surrounding bare wood. That crack in the hull worries me a tad, filler isn't going to keep it from opening further. I think it needs to be stabilized with CA gel or some two part epoxy. Would like to hear what others think regarding same. 

 

 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Henry, here is a snip from a model that is very similar to Mary, but way superior..

 

image.png.02cc64d9e6c9fe38792de6437b789e7e.png

You can see here how the builder chose to secure the bowsprit..

 

Here is a link to more pictures of this model.  Be prepared to be blown away.  I have often used it as a reference to try to improve my skills.

 

Ship model yacht Max Emanuel

 

Here is the story about the model:   Historical background of the yacht Max Emanuel

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted (edited)

Gentlemen first let me say to all of you many thanks for me this is what a forum should be all about forgive me if get replies out of sequence. Firstly i don't have the bowsprit only bit where the flag pole goes.  Will post Picts tomorrow and you will see what's what, no point in me trying to name anything because half the things I don't know the name of I just like to build things. What is said about the crack in the hull maybe an old pic what I did was to edge glue the planks and hold them in place using thick rubber bands and a block of wood to force the plank in position and looks like it worked regarding any bare wood I was going to paint them with PVA  but the white paint must have about a thousand coats so I thought wood filler a better bet just like painting a car using a paint filler same idea.

The pics you all posted really gives me some idea but remember this one is vintage and like real ships may have evolved through the years also but nevertheless very helpful, I think the one with the ship bell same as mine shows I think kit makers just change certain items and gave the same kit a different name.

 

Another interesting point is the canon mine all the wheels are the same size yours are different sizes mine also tethered look the old photo's that's  the kind of small detail I've tried to point out above but we are still a million miles away from that yet and no doubt I'll pester you all again. The barrels are held into the carriages by a thin veneer strip on top or that's what it should be.

Regards

Henry x

Edited by henry x
Posted

 Henry, the pictures and link to the model I posted is supposedly the same model as yours. If they're not, one would be hard pressed to drive a hair between the difference of the two. It sounds like you've stabilized the hull. Looking forward to photo updates.......KB

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Let me start this morning by saying it is only just now that i myself have come to realise what i have stumbled across it may well be i am the only person still alive in THIS forum who remembers this model, i sincerely hope that my statement is not true.  Getting back to the model i think this one goes back pre  WW11 maybe even to 20's or 30's when i  hopefully get to the end for those really interested we might have a discussion. Keith your model is not the same the part in the middle of the deck i will call a cabin but i know that is not the correct name it differs, the windlass also differs and so on the bowsprit is attached by screws on mine you will see there are no holes in the stem maybe yours is a latter model don't know i'm only a layman. 

 

Gregory  the last model you show yes really beautiful and i know it's not the same as i have but the attachment of the bowsprit shown is the only plausible one so far i myself thought the plank was vertical but i can now see it's horizontal. Really need to try and get to the bottom of this because i am not far away.

 

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Posted
1 hour ago, henry x said:

Bowsprit - Really need to try and get to the bottom of this because i am not far away.

I got side tracked last night, but later today I will show you the plans from Mary as to how the bowsprit is stepped.

 

I think you will find it doable as well..

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted

Looking really good!

 

Here are some pictures from the Mary plans, showing how the bowsprit is set up..

 

bowsprit1.jpg.79d1b3e3b1b73486bc49bc876d64eba3.jpgbowsprit.jpg.4fcfe1042b289cd23b3127ba4517081a.jpg  

 

The end is stepped under the fife rail in front of the windless..

 

bowsprit3.jpg.33812e36f55655d0be37254eddff0173.jpg

 

 

Might give you some ideas for setting yours up..

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted

Henry, she's cleaning up nicely. A world of difference. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Gregory

Many thanks for posting that there is space but the plank would not fit under the gunwale there is certainly 2 posts missing i pictured something like a notice board 2 posts with a board going across having a hole in it to fit the bowsprit and there is something else missing that so far no one has noticed but will come to that in due time. Now just a bit of light relief the MOD. can remove the pics if he likes years ago i was a member of a boat club and i built a boat French sardinier  from MRB Gazelle des sables fitted it with radio and first time out it bumped into a fellow members boat which sank needless to say i never took it back i'm quite sure some of you will remember these Cats.

 

Henry x 

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