Avi Posted March 10 Author Share #361 Posted March 10 Redid the rudder. Used an iron to heat up the copper, removed all the plates, cut my finger (optional), sanded it down, then sanded a curve, primed, painted, and applied new copper. Giving it a day, then will wax and varnish. Bluejacket is sending me replacement gudgeons and pintles of the correct width, but they will not arrive for a few weeks. SUBaron, ERS Rich, schooner and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avi Posted April 26 Author Share #362 Posted April 26 Well, in a funny twist, bluejacket sent it to my brother in the USA, who came for a visit. He opened the envelope to check it when it arrived, then put it in his baggage… but didn’t realize until he got here that it had fallen out of the envelope while packing. Oops. 😆 ERS Rich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBlueJacket Posted April 29 Share #363 Posted April 29 Oops indeed. Can he send it to you without great expense? At least you can work onother tings in the meantime. Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avi Posted April 29 Author Share #364 Posted April 29 Yeah. I’ve got someone visiting near him in a week, she will bring it back. Phew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Morrison Posted yesterday at 12:39 AM Share #365 Posted yesterday at 12:39 AM On 5/20/2023 at 1:06 AM, aliluke said: Hi Avi Just looked through your log - very nice work indeed. But I'm confused by your coppering technique and it seems to frustrate you as well. Why at 1/96 - a very small scale- are you overlapping the plates? It seems like a near pointless detail that is causing the frustration and it appears to be "ruffling" the lines of the hull. Why not just butt joint them and the problem goes away? Why are you doing them in sections rather than them running full length side to side? On my Fly model at 1/64 they are just butt jointed and I laid each row, starting at the keel - stem to stern, side to side before I moved up to the next row. All glued with a light coating of CA. The plates follow the planking lines and are snipped to the correct angle when they reach the waterline. At least for Fly or Pegasus this the correct layout for these ships. They aren't the Constitution of course so I can't speak to that. I have no idea how you'll be able to match the sectional approach from side to side. I'm also confused about why the kit supplies them as individual plates when you can get them as strips which work quickly and accurately for long horizontal runs? With strips you can snip off individual planks to work with the upward flow made by imperceivable increments. The strips with butt joints also keep the flow of the hull intact and avoid the "ruffling" effect that I see and remove the adhesion problems as well. I can't help feeling that you are digging a hole with your method and it looks like it'll just get deeper as it progresses. My more radical advice would be to de-bond what you have done and take a simpler line of approach. Strips if you can get them, butt joints (for sure), run them full length and from side to side and go with the planking flow from the keel upwards. I'd see this as a make or break moment as an outcome below the waterline that detracts, for you!!!, from all of the work beforehand will always detract from all of that work and all of it afterwards. I hope you take this as intended - advice from someone who has coppered a hull (but not done a Constitution build!) and had a relatively easy time of it. When I built the old PoF by Aeropiccola several years ago, I coppered the hull. The ship was in 1/180 scale, and I overlapped the plates. It worked beautifully. The model was of HMS Victory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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