HM Cutter Alert by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale - by Glenn Shelton

[Glenn-UK]

I have just ordered the HM Alert (V2) from Vanguard Models and I am looking forward to receiving the kit next week (UPS delivery scheduled for Tuesday 6th April).

 

I am currently rigging the Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) which should be completed in a few weeks time.

 

I choose the Alert for my next build as I think it will fit the gap between the completion of the DOK build and the release of the Sphinx kit from Vanguard Models release in few months time.

[James H]

A lovely kit. You should do this one pretty quickly.

[Glenn-UK]

36 minutes ago, James H said:

A lovely kit. You should do this one pretty quickly.

Hopefully the Alert build time will fit in perfectly with the Sphinx release date, no pressure Jim😃.

 

I am planning a slightly differerent build sequence for the Alert and I will also use the Alert to refine and improve my modelling skills.

Edited March 31, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

The Cutter Alert kit arrived safe and sound this morning. I have made a very quick video of the kit's contents which can be found on YouTube.

 

Work will be slow to start with on this kit as I am currently rigging the Duchess of Kingston which should take me around another 4 to 6 weeks to complete.

 

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

As I had completed the work on the DOK main mast rigging earlier than planned today I thought I would start the Cutter Alert build process with a complete dry fit of the bulkheads and various securing patterns to the false keel.

 

I placed sheet 1 of the 3mm MDF on my cutting mat and fitted a brand new blade fitted to my craft knife, I was all set to make the first cut.

 

However before making the first cut I noticed the sheet was not laying flat on the mat. On closer inspection I noted there was quite a significant warp to the sheet and more to the point it ran along the length of the false keel. I also checked sheet 2 3mm MDF sheet which was also warped.

 

 

Sometimes this is not an issue with kits as the assembly process will naturally straighten the parts during the assembly process. Having a quick look at the build manual I was not sure if this would be the case with this kit. There are two securing patterns (part 12 bow and bulkhead securing pattern and part 14 bow pattern) which may take care of any warping issues. I decided to air of the side of caution before removing any parts from either sheet and applied some water to both sides of the MDF sheets. I then clamped both sheets together with a heavy metal plate on top. I will now leave the sheets to fully dry out, whilst clamped. Fingers crossed this does the trick.

Edited April 7, 2021 by glennard2523

[Oboship]

Good luck with your new kit!

I'm looking forward to your build log as Alert will be my next build as well.

Uwe

[Glenn-UK]

7 minutes ago, Oboship said:

Good luck with your new kit!

I'm looking forward to your build log as Alert will be my next build as well.

Uwe

Thanks Uwe.

I hope to produce a detailed build log, detailing all aspects of my build for the Cutter Alert which I hope other modellers will find helpful and informative.

[James H]

Any warp in that sheet shouldn't matter when the frames are assembled. It will pull straight.

 

I'm more concerned about where that moisture will go to (or not) with a large metal sheet over damp MDF.

[chris watton]

No need for any flattening. The slight bend is likely temporary due to being in the box. When the hull assembly is built up, all will be straight and true anyway.

[bruce d]

17 hours ago, glennard2523 said:

I will now leave the sheets to fully dry out, whilst clamped.

I am going to butt in here. If the MDF is wetted and then clamped as you have shown, drying will be problematic. The only place for the moisture to escape is the exposed edges. This method can bite, and I am speaking from experience. May I suggest you get room temperature air circulating across those wetted surfaces?

HTH

Bruce

 

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks Bruce, Jim and Chris.

I only brushed on some water, I did not wish to saturate the sheets. When I removed the clamps and metal plate this morning the warp had been removed.

Edited April 8, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

My main priority at the moment is completing the DOK rigging therefore I will only be tackling some easy sub projects on the Alert. Today I decided to build the winch drum and pawl bitt assembly. I have uploaded a video to YouTube which contains more images and commentary of the build process.

 

Winch drum and pawl assembly - YouTube

 

The winch drum is a nice resin item, however there is some excess resin left from the mould.

 

I used a craft knife fitted with a brand new blade to excess the resin.

 

The winch drum needs to be painted a dark wood colour. I opted for a walnut finish. I used an iron metalwork black for the teeth.

 

There are 4 x carrick bitt iron straps and 2 x pawls which are photoetched parts which need to be painted black. I opted to clean these parts in acetone and then used a photoetch burnishing solution to blacken them.

 

All the wooden parts, with the exception of the two belaying pin racks, need to be painted red. I have decided to use Red Ochre for all the deck fittings. I decided to paint the pieces in situ before removing them for the 3mm sheet. The edges can be painted red during the assembly phase.

 

As I removed the wood parts I did remove the laser char from the exposed edges this will be better when the edges are painted red. The various parts required for the build were checked against the build instruction. The 6 x belaying pins required for the 2 racks will be fitted when I'm ready to start the rigging phase.

 

The parts are now ready for the assembly phase.

 

The winch drum assembly and pawl bitt head assemblies are complete and ready to be joined together using the 2 belaying pin racks

 

The two belaying racks were fitting to the winch drum assembly and their positions adjusted so the two pawls lined up with the winch drums teeth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 8, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

I completed adding the foremast shrouds to the DOK build this afternoon so I had a little bit of time to kill so I decided to build another deck item for the Cutter Alert, which was the Jeer and Topsail Bitt.

 

Jeer and Topsail Bitts Assembly

This assembly comprises:

1 x mast bitt cross piece (3mm wood)

2 x mast bitt and standard (3mm wood)

1 x jeer and topsail bitt windlass (resin cast item)

2 x handles (photoetch parts)

 

The wooden parts were painted ochre red. Once the excess casting resin had been removed from the windlass resin part the central barrel part was painted walnut brown and the spindles and gears were painted metalwork (iron) black. The two photoetch handles were cleaned in acetone and then blackened using a photo etch burnishing solution. The parts are now ready for assembly.

 

Before committing the parts to the glue process, I tried a dry fit. I noted the windlass spindle would not locate in the respective holes of the mast bitt and standard wooden parts. I ran a 0.8mm micro drill bit through the holes which solved the problem. I used some wood glue to secure the mast bitt cross piece to the mast bitt and standards, ensuring the jeer and topsail bitt was fitted at the same time. Once the wood glue had cured the two photoetch handles were bent to 90 degrees along the fold line and glued (ca gel) to either end of the jeer and topsail bitt windlass spindles.

 

This was a simple build and produced a very pleasing deck item as can be seen in the photos below.

 

[VTHokiEE]

Nice work Glenn; I’m not certain it matters or that you care but the handles (at least according the the instructions) would be placed 180 degrees opposite each other.

 

I’m enjoying watching your builds!

[Glenn-UK]

7 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

Nice work Glenn; I’m not certain it matters or that you care but the handles (at least according the the instructions) would be placed 180 degrees opposite each other.

Thanks for your comment.  I hope you enjoy the rest of the build as it progresses. The instructions simply state:

 

"The handles (PE-33) are to be bent and glued to each end of the shaft on F-2".

 

The picture in the manual does however show the handles placed at 180 degrees opposite each other. I opted to have the handles placed inline with each other as I liked it that way. I don't think it matters either way in my opinion.

[Glenn-UK]

I took a 15 min break from the DOK this morning to build another deck item for the Cutter Alert, namely the two deck hand pumps.

 

Deck Pump Assembly

There are two identical deck pump assemblies. Each deck pump requires the following parts:

1 x 40mm length of 4mm dowel.

2 x hand pump upper side bracket (photoetch part)

1 x hand pump upper main body (photoetch part)

1 x hand pump top cap (photoetch part)

2 x small pins

 

The photoetch items for both deck pumps were cleaned in acetone and then blackened using a photo etch burnishing solution. The 2 x 40mm lengths were cut from a piece of 4mm dowel. The parts are now ready for the assembly phase.

 

I started the assembly process by gluing (ca gel) each hand pump top cap to the top of their respective dowel, ensuring the hole in hand pump top cap was positioned in the centre of the dowel.

 

Next the hand pump upper side brackets were fitted to each side of the hand pump upper main body using ca gel. The small pins were used to ensure these parts were correctly aligned. The small pins were also glued in place and the excess pin material was trimmed flush with the side of the hand pump upper side brackets.

 

I always like to test fit items before adding any glue to ensure everything is a good fit. When doing this I noted the hand pump assembly did not quite fit in the hand pump top cap locating slot. I solved this by running a needle file through the top cap locating slot. After a few quick passes of the file the hand pump assembly was a perfect fit and could be glued in place, again using a ca gel.

 

2 x Completed Deck Pump Assemblies

[DelF]

I'll follow this with interest Glenn - another kit on my potential list for the future.

 

On 4/7/2021 at 4:45 PM, glennard2523 said:

clamped both sheets together with a heavy metal plate

Have you found yet another use for the quadhands here? Certainly looks like the base!

[Glenn-UK]

35 minutes ago, DelF said:

Have you found yet another use for the quadhands here? Certainly looks like the base!

I used the quadhands base to aid the clamping of the sheets. I am only doing bits and pieces on the Cutter Alert at the moment when I feel the need to take a small break from the rigging of the DOK. It should be a nice build. 

[Glenn-UK]

I have built the Aft Companionway Assembly which was a nice simple task. Aft Companionway Assembly Video

 

The wooden parts were removed from the sheet, and the laser char removed from the visible edges.

 

To make the assembly easier I decided to make a simple jig to hold the frame in place whilst the parts were glued.

 

PVA glue was applied to all the joints and the assembly aft companionway frame was then securely positioned in the frame.

 

Once the glue had had time to cure the frame was removed from the jig. It was checked to make sure it was square.

 

The completed frame assembly

 

A thin layer of pva glue was place on the top edges so that the two roof parts could be fixed in place

 

The roof parts were clamped in place while the glue was curing

 

The first coat of red ochre paint was applied, which highlights any defects which may need attention, as can be seen in the photo below.

 

A second coat of paint was applied after a quick fix with a sanding stick. It looks much better now.

 

The photoetched handle was cleaned in acetone and blackened. It was then fixed in place. The deck item is now complete.

 

https://youtu.be/BayCkBRd-PQ

Edited April 14, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

Batch Hatch Assembly

Today I have built the batch hatch. This only comprises two wooden parts. The hatch fits inside the combing. When complete there are two eyebolts and rings to be added to the hatch.

 

This is a picture of the Batch Hatch Assembly (minus the eyebolts and rings)

 

I thought I would try enhancing this part, so I added some thin wooden strips to simulate wooden construction. The instructions require the wooden parts to be painted red. I added an oak stain which I think think looks quite nice.

 

This is a picture of the modified Batch Hatch Assembly (minus the eyebolts and rings).

Edited April 15, 2021 by glennard2523

[Theodosius]

The small deck assemblys look like a ton of fun to build! 🙂

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, Theodosius said:

The small deck assemblys look like a ton of fun to build! 🙂

They are nice to build. They are also a welcome distraction when I need a small break from rigging the DOK.

[Glenn-UK]

Rear Hatch / Skylight Assembly

This is another simple deck item build. The rear hatch / skylight assembly comprises the following parts:

2 x Rear Hatch Combing End (wooden part)

2 x Rear Hatch Combing Side (wooden part)

1 x rear hatch skylight (photo etch part)

 

These parts were removed from their respective sheets and the laser car was removed from the visible edges of the rear hatch combings.

 

The photoetched rear hatch skylight part was cleaned in acetone and then given a coat of grey etch primer. It is now ready for painting.

 

The jig I used aft companionway assembly was modified so the rear hatch combing parts could be aligned and held in place.

 

 

Once I was happy with the fit in the jig a touch of pva glue was applied to all the joints. The rear hatch frame was then removed from the jig after the glue had cured.

 

Next a thin layer of pva was applied to the top edge of the frame assembly and the skylight was positioned and clamped.

 

The completed assembly was painted red ochre. Another simple deck item assembly successfully completed.

[Glenn-UK]

Main and Fore Companionway Hatches

I will not add a lot of detail of the build process as they are both essentially a repeat of the rear hatch skylight build process. The only difference is there is an inner and outer framework which allows the hatches to be seated.

 

My jig was adjusted slightly so that the inner main hatch frame assembly could be positioned and held secure once the glue had been applied to the joints.

 

Once the glue had cured the outer frames were attached to the inner framework.

 

The main hatch was dry fitted in the framework. It is a nice tight fit.

 

I repeated the main hatch build process for the fore companionway hatch.

 

The assembled frameworks were painted ochre red. The hatches are only dry fitted at this stage. Another assembly task completed. 

 

The only deck items still to build are the 12 sets of the 6-Pounder cannon and carriage assembly.

 

 

 

[Theodosius]

On 4/17/2021 at 11:34 AM, glennard2523 said:

The photoetched rear hatch skylight part was cleaned in acetone and then given a coat of grey etch primer.

 

I can't remember if I read this allready somewhere here or in your other blogs, but how do you apply your primer? I ask, because one can see, that the inner strips don't get a lot primer. Sure, not a big deal on this part, but that may change on others :).

 

The resulted parts look good! 🙂

[Glenn-UK]

24 minutes ago, Theodosius said:

 

how do you apply your primer? I ask, because one can see, that the inner strips don't get a lot primer.

 

I use a spray can of primer which is designed for photo etched parts. I gave a quick spray over and was not too bothered about the inner strips for this part as the skylight was cleaned in acetone prior to adding the primers. The red paint was applied with a paint brush to the skylight without any issues. The finished part will get a thin coat of polyurethane varnish to protect it.

[Theodosius]

Ah, I see, thank you very much for this information! 🙂

[Glenn-UK]

Now that I have completed the Duchess of Kingston build the shipyard required a good tidy up ready for the next occupant.

 

A selection of tools have been layout out in readiness for the Cutter Alert

 

The Cutter Alert has now moved into the shipyard and is ready for the hull assembly phase.

 

I do like to test fit parts to see if there are any potential problems. When fitting the inner, middle and outer stern frames to bulkhead 10 and 9 there did seem a slight alignment issue with the two outer stern frames, as shown in the photo below.

 

With a little bit of gentle persuasion the outer stern frames could be fitted in the bulkhead 9 slots.

 

The first task is to bevel the top edge of bulkhead 10 so it follows the same angle as the top edge of the keel. With the stern frames positioned in bulkhead 10 I marked the position of top edge of the keel on bulkhead 10 to make the sanding task easier.

 

Using my sanding stick it did not take too much effort to shape the top of bulkhead 10. As can be seen in the photo below the edge between the two inner stern frames still requires a tad more sanding.

 

[DelF]

Crikey, you've not even paused for breath after Duchess!

[Glenn-UK]

52 minutes ago, DelF said:

Crikey, you've not even paused for breath after Duchess!

Hello Derek

I would to like get this model built before The Sphinx is released later this year. Also bashing wood again makes a nice change after many weeks of rigging