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HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC


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Ok my MSW friends, I am back from the sea. Back in my shipyard and ready to do a bit of corrective surgery on my tye rigging. Going to replace the .75 mm thread I used for the tyes on the fore and main mast topsail yard with a .3 mm thread I have. Also debating, but not sure yet, changing the blocks I modified to attach to the backstays. Going to double check the size Longridge suggests for these blocks. I am thinking I maybe gone with a block just a bit smaller. 
 

I have to admit that never before on any ship I have built have I gone back and redone something already completed!  Maybe I am maturing to a better craftsman. 😊

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Ok, much better. I changed out the tyes to smaller thread, replaced the single and double blocks, and improved the connector for the double block to attach to the backstay. While I was at it I also replaced the single and double blocks on the pendants above the deck opening where the boats go. Kevin’s painted printed blocks look better than the wood blocks at had there before. I am now back to where I was before going to the beach. Just better now

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Doing a little long range thinking. As I mentioned before I plan to furl all my hand made sails so as to reveal all the ship craftsmanship. When it comes to the rigging I know there are a number of ropes (threads) that attach to the unfurled sails. What comes of/with those lines in a furled sail situation?

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Thanks Marc. It was a great bi-annual trip with my very large family to the Gulf coast of Florida. In the picture I am on the back row, left of center, next to a guy with a grey beard (son-in-law), and behind a lady with grey hair.   
What a crew from Louisville to be on vacation with. Needless to say, much Kentucky bourbon was shared in the evenings with those age appropriate! 😀

Good to get back to my Victory. 

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I have been back in the shipyard about a week now so I thought I would post a progress report. Completed the parrals on the fore and mainmast yards that required them. I then moved to the mizzenmast. Completed the attachment of the crossjack yard to include the sling and pendants, and the mizzen topgallant yard with it’s tye. Still need to add the parral. Working with the parrals on the fore and main mast I have discovered it is easier to attach the yard using a pin into the mast and epoxy. Once dry and hardened I add the parral. Much easier this way and still adds strength to the yard mounting. Saved the middle yard to last since I find rigging it the most complicated with its tyes rigged to a modified block attached to the backstays. 

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Mizzen topmast yard installed. Once glue sets up I will add parral and single tye as described by Longridge on page 258. While I wait I am reading ahead about the Driver Boom and Driver Gaff. I again have my Longridge book and studying pages 254-257 to include Fig 180. Any advice you guys can send my way before I get started as always is appreciated. 

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Hey Dave, leaving the eyelets I made bare metal was a decision I made early on to leave all the metal parts I added bare instead of blackening. I left all of the brass etched parts I got from Daniel bare metal as well and use brass polish to highlight them. I like the visual interest the bits of metal here and there adds to my model. I think if I had blackened all the metal parts, the extra time and effort spent, as well as the expense, would have been in time forgotten by me and ignored as being just black plastic pieces supplied in Heller’s kit. 

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Ian I was looking at them just yesterday., along with Daniel’s brass parts for the supports. Trying to decide when to put them on. I know they are going to be tough to paint a susceptible to being bent once added to the ship. I looked through the Heller box to see what parts I still have left. There are not many. I have the boats and davits which I have already painted. I have the four anchors which I have already painted, I have the lanterns which are not painted, and I still need to make the rails using Daniel’s brass stanchions that go on the mast tops. Again with them I am trying to decide when it will be safe to add them. 
 

Ian I have a question I need your help with. I plan to make all my sails but have them appear stowed or furled. If I do that what do I do with the lines (I think the clewlines and buntlines?)?  I assume they would still be attached to the sail for when the crew wanted to unfurl the sail. I noticed for your build you left the sails off. In that situation did you just not rig those lines?  Left them off?

 

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Bill, If you furl sails the clewlines and buntlines remain attached and disappear into the folds. There are examples of this here on MSW. Don't forget the bowlines if you want to be detailed!

 

Yes, I omitted sails but I didn't want to simplify the rigging too much, lest ship handling appear simple to the viewer. The clewlines I attached to the sheet lines which they would have met with at the corners of the sails anyway, as is common practice (this is what Longridge has drawn in his large running rigging diagram). The buntlines I passed through their blocks on the yard, then hitched to the yard. Similarly, I rigged the bowlines and bridles, with ends hitched to the yards. Also common practice.

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Gaff rigging completed to include Throat Haliard, Peak Haliard, mizzen topsail braces, mizzen topgallant braces, and Vangs!  Heller definitely did not plan on the need for extra cleats. I am having to fabricate them from old parts. Still have ti do the ensign haliard which I don’t have a complete grasp on yet. 

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Lifts and buntlines completed for the foremast!  I am thinking I need to start on the ratlines on my foremast. As I rig these different lines I am finding that I am getting them aromatherapy be and near the shrouds, especially the ones that belay to the shrouds or futtock shrouds. 

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This is an interesting painting of the HMS Victory going into battle I saw on line. What I find interesting is the deployment of the sails. Would this have been the case from time to time?  There are no sails on the top gallant yards. The topsails appear to be unfurled and the lower sails appear to be in a partially furled position. Can’t really figure out what is going on with the mizzenmast sails. Also appears the sail on the gaff is partially unfurled. This could be a depiction I try to capture with my sails. 

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Hi Bill.  When going into a classic battle they reduced to "fighting sail" mainly topsails, with lower sails at least clewed up because of the danger of their catching fire. The driver is partly brailed up. I don't see the driver boom so I wondered if this depiction is of Victory before her "great refit" when she still had the lateen mizzen lower yard; but I don't see its forward portion either. On the other hand, she seems to not have the black and yellow ochre colour scheme of later years. Also unable to make out if the stern has the galleries or not; these were present as built but closed in after her refit. I agree the mizzen topsail looks odd. Could it be she has lost the mizzen yard and the topsail is blowing free? If so it's an odd looking shape to take.

 

I seem to be raising more questions than answers.

 

Funny how painters commonly filled in battle foregrounds with men in boats. Any idea which battle this is?

Edited by Ian_Grant
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Ian there is a YouTube video titled:

 

Fighting Top to Keelson: Saving the Mainmast of HMS Victory

 

You May have seen it. It is a video about engineers carefully removing the main mast for restoration. The painting I am referencing is shown right at the beginning. 

 

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