HM Bark Endeavour 1758-61 by DaveBaxt - Caldercraft - 1:64

[DaveBaxt]

3 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

Hi Dave, those multi-hand clamp thingies are very useful, don't know how I got on without one before!  🤦‍♂️  You are making fine progress once more.  Hope you have a great Christmas and New Year! 

Thank you Andrew and I hope you enjoy your Christmas and have a happy and prosperus New Year.

[DaveBaxt]

Here are some photos of the Endeavour replica which clearly shows the gaff sail is without a boom. I am slo struggling with where to attach the tackle for the sheet and tack when no sails are carried. Here is a question I posted on the forum, which Bob has kindly answered and hopefully is what he is getting at.

I am also thinking of fitting the brail blocks to the gaff and I am assuming these are fitted in pairs  once again I am unsure as to what to do with the lines without sails. Toggles on the ends perhaps?

Edited December 23, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Here is another photo which Any has kindly updated for me by pointing out where the different attachments are to the gaff, which has helped me understand what I am looking at.

Edited December 23, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Blocks  and pennents for the following fitted 

Vangs

Ensign haliyard

Peak haliyard

Throat haliyard

Mizzen topsail brace blocks

brails blocks

 

Edited December 28, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Pretty much finshed the yards with as many of the blocks I can think of. Although I haven,t added any as yet for the stunning sail yards and booms. I have thought about next  going onto adding the hearts and other fittings to the masts, but have decided to finish of the boats.As I made a complete mess of the skiff ( Cinker built) I decided to get one made by Vanguard Models which is made from a 3D printer. 

The size lengthwise for the skiff is spot on to scale but the width is a bit wider than the boat supplied by the kit. 

If I had the chance I think on my next model (HMS Diana) I don,t think I will bother with the boats that came with the kit. I think most of the fittings I made for the other boats were to large for the scale and probably too small for my skill level aswell.

Edited January 6, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

I am unsure of what glue to use on the material of the 3D printers so have asked the question on the forum.

 

Hopefully I will find out soon enough. Thankyou

[AJohnson]

5 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

I am unsure of what glue to use on the material of the 3D printers so have asked the question on the forum.

 

Hopefully I will find out soon enough. Thankyou

Hi Dave, if you’re referring to adding a grating floor or bench seats I’d just try some medium or thick C-A, or some epoxy if you want more working time. I made a little boat for my Nisha that was resin, just used C-A and can’t think why a 3D hull would behave any differently.  

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, AJohnson said:

Hi Dave, if you’re referring to adding a grating floor or bench seats I’d just try some medium or thick C-A, or some epoxy if you want more working time. I made a little boat for my Nisha that was resin, just used C-A and can’t think why a 3D hull would behave any differently.  

Thank you Andrew I think thats pretty much what I thought but not having worked with the resin before I thought CA would be fine but wanted to make sure. Interesting you say apoxy as I have some 5 miniute apoxy at hand so might give that a go for anything tricky. I might also try a bit of white paint on the inside first and see how that holds too!

Edited January 6, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

I ended up using the 2 part epoxy glue as this give me a bit more time to position the seats and floors etc. All made from 0.5x 3mm and 1 mm x 4mm Walsnut strips. I also managed to get hold of some rowlocks but there was only 1 pkt left (10) so didn,t have enough for all of the boats. The 65 mm oars have come from Vanguard  models which I think are much nicer than the brass oars which came with the kit.

        I secured the top and bottom boats using 0.25mm black thread and 3 mm deadeyes and securerd the spare top  masts using 0.1mm biege thread for securing the spare top masts. As my spare masts are actually longer than the Caldercraft ones they may or may not cause problems when belaying the running rigging to there pins as some of them are beneath the spare top masts. I got the idea of using the dead eyes from AOTS book although I am unsure how acurate these are but thought it would be a neat way of securing the boats. Perhaps I could have used blocks instead of deadeyes.

A

All in all I am not too happy with how the boats turned out from the kits, fortunately I will be using Vanguard ship models boats for my next ship the HMS Diana.

 

Edited January 16, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[allanyed]

Nice work all around Dave. 

 

You model brings up a question that I don't think has been answered before, based on contemporary information.  You show 8 deadeyes to secure the lines holding the upper tier of ship's boats in place as well as a simple tie down for the lowest.   Were deadeyes, blocks, or just ropes and eyes with a simple tie down normally used?  I have seen a number of photos of contemporary models showing boats but only one so far that has ropes holding the boats in place and that is a simple tie down much like what you used for the lowest boat.  I have no idea what the usual method was, but would like to know for future use.

 

Thanks for sharing your build!

 

Regarding Diana, all those different types and sizes of boats will be fun projects in themselves!!

 

Allan

Edited January 16, 2023 by allanyed

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Nice work all around Dave. 

 

You model brings up a question that I don't think has been answered before, based on contemporary information.  You show 8 deadeyes to secure the lines holding the upper tier of ship's boats in place as well as a simple tie down for the lowest.   Were deadeyes, blocks, or just ropes and eyes with a simple tie down normally used?  I have seen a number of photos of contemporary models showing boats but only one so far that has ropes holding the boats in place and that is a simple tie down much like what you used for the lowest boat.  I have no idea what the usual method was, but would like to know for future use.

 

Thanks for sharing your build!

 

Regarding Diana, all those different types and sizes of boats will be fun projects in themselves!!

 

Allan

Thank you Allan for your input. I too would like to know how the boats are properly secured. I have not as yet been able to find any information on the subject and suspect that this is achieved by a simple tie down of some discription. I am not familiar either with what sort of knots could be used but I expect there are quite a few to choose from.

          I do not own the AOTS Endeavour but I was lucky someone sent me a picture of the masts together with the boats and the above method of using of deadeyes. It does seem a bit overkill but for once I have used AOTS for reference in this case. I have seen a few modellers using blocks instead of deadeyes which I was thinking of using on my next model the HMS Diana. Perhaps I might come across something different again during my next build which gives me a better idea.

Looking forward to building the Diana's 4 boats from Vanguard models. Hopefully with better results.

Edited January 16, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[allanyed]

27 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

It does seem a bit overkill but for once I have used AOTS for reference in this case

Success (of sorts)!!  The following contemporary photo of a 38 gun frigate of 1805 and the second photo of the Lowenstat (32) 1761 show no signs of blocks or deadeyes.  I agree, deadeyes seem like overkill.   There are probably more on the RMG site but using it is not as user friendly as in the old days, at least not for some of us.😕

 

 

[DaveBaxt]

Nice find Allen and interesting models too. I do wonder what knots are on the end of those ropes. Clove hitch or something similar?

[jud]

Spare spars and masts supported and secured near the ends only, then boats placed on the unsupported center and lashed down to the deck with any device that creates tension, would warp the spare spars. Support your spars in the center or lash your boats to the spars only and rotate them frequently. Any unsupported pole will sag without proper spacing of support and load.

 

[DaveBaxt]

All good Points Jud.  Thank you

[jud]

1 hour ago, DaveBaxt said:

Nice find Allen and interesting models too. I do wonder what knots are on the end of those ropes. Clove hitch or something similar?

Suspect  a Locked Clove Hitch on one end and a what we today call a Truckers Hitch on the other, 'use both frequently', https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trucker's_hitch.

 

[DaveBaxt]

Moving onto securing the boomkin guys/stays and according to Lees for this period only one stay is fitted with a single block on the end for the single tack rope. Then onto securing the forward anchors with the cat head tackle and fish tackle. This is accurate as I think possible and copied from 'Arming andFitting of English ships of war' by Brian levery  and includes the stopper  on the anchor ring in place for letting the anchor go. For the record I used black card from the kit  for around the ends of the cat heads. 

       

 

Next I will attempt to make the anchor buoys and hopefully Next iam making an attempt at making the buoys for the anchors and I hope they turn out ok.Then finally onto the standing rigging. 

 

Edited January 26, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Here is my several attempts at one of the anchor buoys which didn't turn out too well. Moving onto the lower collars etc starting with the fore stay and fore preventer stay on th eth bowsprit together with the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds. A bit tricky and wish I had positioned the sets of thumb cleats further away from each other as it was a bit of a tight fit with bobstay,shroud and main collars between them. The fore stay collars also are doubled for this period. Collars are also served. I could have also made the thread a shade smaller than 0.75mm would have help too.

Next up 

Next up will be the lower collars for the main stay and main preventer stay but at the moment I am unsure which exactly is the position for them. Which one is on the top. I have seen a few builds where the fore preventer stay is on the bottom but the lower main preventer stay is on the top. Does this mean that the crows feet will on the fore stay rather than the usual fore preventer stay. I have not yet thought that the fore preventer stay could be on the bottom as it is on the Endeavour replica.

Edited February 7, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

I have just fitted the main mast stay to the bowsprit and made temporary stays to see what sort of room I have between the boats and the stays. I have now decided after finding in Lees book a photograph a close up  of the main top clearly showing that the preventer is below the stay and there is good clearance between the preventer stay and the boats. I can now mark on the foremast the position of the  lower main stay collar .I am therefore assuming that the Lower fore preventer stay is also on the bottom on this particular ship. 

[DaveBaxt]

Completed the Spritsail Gammoning, shrouds and one of the horses not so easy getting them exactly the same lengths and knots in the same place. Next up will be the fore and after Bobstays which are fully served.  There are a number of different views on how these are put together but believe David Row has the correct one which agrees with James Lees book. Here is a coule of photos of my progress together with Dave Rows Bobstays.

 

 

I would like to thank David for using his photo as I believe this is the correct way for the Bobstays on the Endeavour

Edited February 13, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Completed Bobstays and horses .Hopefully better photos this time as I have managed to figure out my camera/phone.

Also I have added in the collar with closed heart for main preventer stay attached to lower fore mast also fully served as fore preventer stay collar. Next up moving onto the Mizzen stay collar which is atthached to the main lower mast and according to lees measurements about 28mm up from the deck and is a dead eye until a later date and will go with this. Also there is no preventer stay on the mizzen mast until a later date so will be going with that too I also need to find out  which blocks /hearts are attached to the lower mast for the top mast stays before starting on the shrouds and whilst I have sufficient room a big mistake I made whilst building the Bounty. No doubt I will forget something.

 

Edited February 13, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Prior to the fitting of the mast shrouds and after consulting Lees book 'The Masting and Rigging of ships of war 1625 to1860' on smaller ships there is only one pair of Pendant tackle  per lower mast and one per of Burton pendants for the mizzen were fitted. The  Pendant tackle having a single block on each end and an eye spliced at the top .  According to lees the pendant tackle for the  Endeavour period is fitted similar to Swifter and has single rope spliced at the top end and one for each side. Hope this makes sense.  Both Burton pendant and pendant tackle are fully served . The runners for the tackle are not normally fitted on model, however there will be main stay tackle to fit at a later day for hoisting boats etc.

Edited February 19, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Moving on to the Fore lower mast shrouds using 0.75mm black thread . I made a jig for each shroud port and stbd as I found this method kept the upper dead eyes a the same hieght rather than the traditional brass wire which did not work to well on my last model. There are signs of one or two lower dead eye securing wire come loose and have always found this a problem of the upper chain plates. I will have to try something better on my next ship.

 

Edited March 3, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[HardeeHarHar]

Interesting approach!  Just wondering: how did you attach your jig to the side of the ship?  Awesome build log, I will have to go read from start to finish 😃

[DaveBaxt]

Hello Brian. If you look at the last photo( I have just uploaded it so you may have missed it) You can clearly see the clips holding it to the lower dead eyes. Next time I am considering pinning it to the lower dead eyes rather than clips

Thank you for your kind words Brian.

Edited March 3, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[AJohnson]

Good idea, Dave, I like a bit of ingenuity! 👏

[DaveBaxt]

3 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

Good idea, Dave, I like a bit of ingenuity! 👏

Thank you Andrew but I can,t take the credit I am fairly sure I got the idea from someone on this great site but unfortunately I can,t remember where.  For me it definately works. Before this I thought I had three thumbs.

[DaveBaxt]

Continuing the shrouds with only the Mizzen of the lower shrouds to do. Then onto the lower stays and back stays. 

Edited March 12, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

I made a a start on the lower stays and preventer stays.I attempted to make the mouse using fabric sticking plaster over small wood bobbin pieces turned on a lathe.I then blacked these using Indian ink to ensure the pattern remaind I thought these turned out reasonably well but slightly on the large side. I also used thread supplied by Ropes of scale to get the correct size threads for 1:64 scale and sizes were taken from Lees book 'The masting and rigging of english ships of war'

 

 

Next up will be the top mast and their stays and shrouds. Once these are properly adjusted  and the masts are in their correct positions, the long task of fitting their ratlines. Which is something I am not particularly looking forward to. Almost forgot the futtock shrouds so still got a long way to go.

Edited March 21, 2023 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Lower Stays completed . I have fitted the Main & Fore lower Stays on top of the Preventer stays as per the Endeavour replica. Also Lees book states that a lot of small ships during this period carried the stays this way too. I think I will now adjust the tension on the lower shrouds before fitting the futtock shrouds and then the upper shrouds can be fitted before the upper stays and back stays are fitted. Here are a few more photos of the work so far. I also need to do a bit of work on the top masts and lower mast heads before the top masts are fitted.

Edited March 22, 2023 by DaveBaxt