HMS Victory by Dale Hallier - FINISHED - DeAgostini - 1:84

[Dale Hallier]

Thanks so much! It is far from perfect, but I was happy with how most of it turned out. It was really satisfying working on this part of the build.

[Ian_Grant]

Dale, she looks really good!  It's a bit late as I just happened on your log now, and I hesitate to say, but looking at your photos ...😔..... your waterline is quite low...in actual fact the waterline (and thus the copper) reaches the main wale in the midships area. Since you coppered from the keel up, using adhesive tape, you could possibly add a couple more rows. Your decision I know, but if you decide it is do-able her hull would look more true to life. Sorry, I hope I have not offended, at this late date....😟

[Penfold]

On 7/23/2021 at 5:58 AM, Dale Hallier said:

I am waiting for some superglue debonder to try and fix this mistake.

Acetone (most nail polish removers) is usually a solvent for CA glue. 

I don’t fully understand what it is you say you’ve boobed on, but I’m sure you’ll sort it.

 

it’s looking great anyway. 👍👍

[Dale Hallier]

Penfold, it's just that the coat of arms is slightly off center to the right. I read about acetone but was worried it might remove the paint on the coat of arms and I was not wanting to paint that again. I should carefully give that a try. Thanks for the comment. I did order the Bluenose II, and I will try to match your standard when I get to it next!

[Dale Hallier]

Thanks for the comment Ian. I really was just guessing where the waterline was, as the usually comprehensive instructions didn't state clearly where this should be. I knew it was a bit low ( or evidently a lot low!) but you're right, I can add a few rows of copper tiles above my installed tiles to raise the waterline. Thanks for the observation.

[Dale Hallier]

June, 2021

 

Almost caught up to where my actual build is now in real time. I really enjoyed working on the decorative parts of the bow section. I first painted the bulkhead the closest blue I could get at the hobby store to the French Blue (Royal Blue, but close).

 

 

I next primed and painted the arch castings and pilasters ochre and black in the inset sections. I attached all of these to the bulkhead after making and attaching the roundhouses.

 

 

The beakhead frames and grating were more of a challenge. Bending the frames out and up while keeping them matched to the preformed slots was not easy. Again, I painted the frames with the blue stripe using 1mm masking tape before attaching, rather than waiting until after installation per the instructions, which would be much more difficult for me. More detail will be added to the bow next month.

 

 

 

 

 Added the compass binnacle, just because it was a fun break in the build!

 

 

 

I attached the chainwales which was a bit of a chore. I did veer a bit off what the instructions recommended (and is likely more historically accurate) by attaching all the chainwales  using loops directly to the wale itself. A few of the loops were to be attached to the ship itself using a loop of wire, but I had issues so I just modified the procedure. It does make the attachment points a bit crowded between the gunports, I know. The loops were all painted black later.

 

 

 

Finally worked on the last major piece of the ship, the bowsprit. Lots of angles and challenges making sure that the vertical angles  of the  jackstaff and dolphin striker will be correct when it is attached to the ship.

 

 

In July I finished the bow details, and began the laborious rigging process. I'll post those pictures when I get a chance next.

[Ian_Grant]

 

2 hours ago, Dale Hallier said:

 

 

Dale, there is something or other awry with your main channel deadeye placement. The deadeyes should be in groups such that the chains, when extended in a straight line from their respective shrouds from the masthead, do not interfere with the guns and port lids. From the forward end of the channel, there should be: a group of three (2 shrouds, 1 topmast backstay); gap over gunport; a group of five (4 shrouds, 1 TM b'stay); gap over gunport; two shrouds, space, one shroud; gap over gunport; two shrouds.

 

Here is a Figure from Longridge showing the starboard side main channel. Notice how the chains and preventers are at larger angles moving aft, since the shroud angles change, and how none interferes with a gunport. The smaller topmast backstay deadeyes have shorter chains here, as you noted. I don't know if your deadeyes are just too large, or the channel is a bit too far aft, but you might want to investigate before moving forward. Regards, Ian.

 

 

Edited July 25, 2021 by Ian_Grant

[Dale Hallier]

I see what you mean Ian. I did measure and follow the instructions carefully when placing the deadeyes.  I checked them again and they are correct according to the instructions,  but obviously not accurate compared to the actual ship. Perhaps the flaw lies in the size of the deadeyes themselves as you suggest. I'll just have to make the best of it. I don't like the look of it compared to what it should be.

[Dale Hallier]

Finished most of the decorative work on the bow section by adding the catheads and ekeing rails. For me it was a bit tricky getting the angles right for the catheads as they had to point forward and up as well. Used my 1mm masking tape and the details for the blue and ochre paint turned out well.

 

 

 

 

 

Finished more deck details, adding pinrails and some cannonball racks.

 

 

Finally began rigging, adding shrouds to all three masts and seizing deadeyes to the shrouds. I used a jig to help with deadeye spacing, but the seizing process is not my favourite part of the build.

 

 

 

Speaking of less favourite parts, I next added hammock cranes to all the deck rails and sewed very flimsy hammock netting onto the cranes. My wife enjoyed my sewing, while me, not so much.

 

The next brief part of the instructions described rolling up hammocks to put in the hammock cranes, finishing with the ominous line "now make 104 of these". As it turns out, I will need about124 to finish the ship. It takes about an hour to do 20 for me, so another long process! Here is the first 50 waiting to have the thread ends tied off.

 

 

One final picture showing some of the hammocks installed.

 

 

Finally my build log has caught up to where I am actually building today!

 

[reklein]

Amazing crisp build! This is a winner for only your second ship. Keep up the good work. I'll try to keep track of this one.

 

[Penfold]

11 hours ago, Dale Hallier said:

Speaking of less favourite parts,

If you’re anything like me, Dale, you find that anything to do with the dead eyes will be a less favourite part. 😅

You’ve clearly got the skills and patience though. Once you get through that bit you’ll be on the home straight I think.

[Penfold]

On 7/24/2021 at 11:33 PM, Dale Hallier said:

Penfold, it's just that the coat of arms is slightly off center to the right. I read about acetone but was worried it might remove the paint on the coat of arms and I was not wanting to paint that again. I should carefully give that a try. Thanks for the comment. I did order the Bluenose II, and I will try to match your standard when I get to it next!

Ah! I see it now 🤨. I feel your pain there. Hopefully you’ll be able to get away with a minimum of ‘repair’ work. I don’t think we manage to get through making models like this without slips of concentration of one kind or another.

[Dale Hallier]

5 hours ago, Penfold said:

Ah! I see it now 🤨. I feel your pain there. Hopefully you’ll be able to get away with a minimum of ‘repair’ work. I don’t think we manage to get through making models like this without slips of concentration of one kind or another.

I see you are working through the Beagle now. My first build was from Occre, so it will be interesting to see how you feel Occre compares with Artesania Latina. I was a biology teacher, so I want to build the Beagle someday because of the connection with Charles Darwin. Maybe I should just let you pick all my future models, and I can follow you and learn from your mistakes! I am also interested in Vanguard models by Chris Watton because of his really clear instructions. With clear instructions, I think you can build almost anything. Well, except when I mess up by not paying enough attention to centering things!

[Dale Hallier]

18 hours ago, reklein said:

Amazing crisp build! This is a winner for only your second ship. Keep up the good work. I'll try to keep track of this one.

 

Thanks so much reklein.  Where the instructions are very clear, I have had some success, and where left to my own devices, the mistakes creep in (like the chainwale attachment to the hull). Still, I am (mostly ) pleased with how it is turning out. My next projects will not be such a massive undertaking! Will you post a build log when you start Syren? I would be interested to see how it turns out. I loved the pictures showing your pile driver. The detail for your diorama is incredible!

[reklein]

Hi Dale, Ive been a modeler since I was ten when my mom started me on diecut balsa flying models. Since then I've almost always had a model going with the exception of my college years and the first few working years after that. When I finally settled down I built and flew R/C models for 25 years. My eyesight changed and cant fly well any more so I'm back to building ships and train models with the occasional aircraft and plastic model thrown in. My S

Syren is half built. I stopped working on it when it came time to drill 50 holes in it to accomoddate cannon and rigging. It is still out on the bench waiting.

  I'll see if I cN FIND  pic and update my profile.

   

[Dale Hallier]

6 hours ago, reklein said:

Hi Dale, Ive been a modeler since I was ten when my mom started me on diecut balsa flying models. Since then I've almost always had a model going with the exception of my college years and the first few working years after that. When I finally settled down I built and flew R/C models for 25 years. My eyesight changed and cant fly well any more so I'm back to building ships and train models with the occasional aircraft and plastic model thrown in. My S

Syren is half built. I stopped working on it when it came time to drill 50 holes in it to accomoddate cannon and rigging. It is still out on the bench waiting.

  I'll see if I cN FIND  pic and update my profile.

   

I feel the same at times with the Victory. Because of the size of the ship, there is a lot of " make 50 of this" and do this 124 times! I just plug along and over time get the jobs done, but this is why my  next build will be a smaller ship.

[Dale Hallier]

Haven't updated this build log for a while as most of the rigging work doesn't make for great pictures. although is consuming lots of time! I finished the second of the two carronades and placed it on the deck.

 

 

Instructions were very clear as always.

 

 

 

 

 

Next I worked on securing the shrouds and adjusting the deadeyes. Even though I used a jig to make sure all the deadeyes were even before I seized the shrouds, the results were mixed - mostly even, but some not even at all. There was no drinking involved, but I sometimes wonder what happened when I finish a task.

 

 

Here I added the catharpins, which are the transverse rigging lines running behind the mast which attach to the futtock stave (I used brass wire) that secure the base of the futtock shrouds. I seized the futtock shrouds  from each top to the shrouds on each mast.

 

 

 

I added the boomkins to either side of the bowsprit, and the netting protecting the bow area.

 

 

After constructing the gangboard, I attached it and fitted the main stay attachments.

 

Next were the fore stay and preventer and the mizzen stay and preventer  connecting the masts together, with the latter shown in this picture.

 

 

I am now working on making the 60 remaining gun port lids, and will post more pictures as I continue...stage 97 of 120!

 

 

 

Edited August 20, 2021 by Dale Hallier

[Penfold]

Still looking great Dale. 👍

[Dale Hallier]

Thanks Penfold! Just about done with the gunpoint lids...then on to more rigging. I am enjoying that part, but trying not to think about all the knots in the ratlines to come! 

Edited August 28, 2021 by Dale Hallier

[Dale Hallier]

It has taken me two months to do the last 10 stages of the ship (out of 120). Some of the tasks (hammock rolling and netting, shrouds and deadeyes, gun port lids) simply took a long time and were repetitive in nature, so I took more breaks - and summer time had lots of other pursuits besides staying inside modelling! 

I used the same assembly line mode to make the gun port lids, priming the hinges to take paint better and cutting the hinges to fit, cutting gun port lids to size, then adding the hinges and painting the outer door face black.

 

 

Next I turned them over and painted the outer three faces and the inside face red. 

 

 

I added the thread before mounting the lids on the ship just to minimize my working with the lids in case I damaged them.

 

 

 

 

After that, I inserted one end of the thread into the holes I drilled in the side of the ship, and once the glue was dry then cut off the ends at the gun port. A bit tedious, but looks good when completed!

 

 

 

My only issue was the usually comprehensive instructions told me to make 60 lids, but as I began fixing them on the ship I saw that I was 2 lids short, and I actually needed 62... so I began the assembly process all over again for the last 2 lids. That is what happens when you turn off your brain, and rely too much on the instructions given! I still say though, that this model is possible for anyone because of the depth of the instructions. That is why when I read about Chris Watton telling James Hatch to make the instructions for his new Sphinx model as long and detailed as needed, that I knew I wanted to work on some of his Vanguard models. I think poor or scanty instructions are why so many new modelers give up - with clear photos and text, so much more is possible, even for inexperienced modelers such as myself. I hope Vanguard models is successful, because I think that Chris Watton is really showing established companies where they should be.

A welcome break was forming the four ships lanterns.

 

 

The Admiral's lantern is shown here attached to the main top. The stern lanterns will be attached later.

 

 

Very excited to add my first sails! I debated whether to do the bare spars' option, but my wife and friends really felt sails were the way to go, so I will be adding them. I do see why many prefer the bare spars, as the sails do obscure a lot of the rigging. I have set the main and main topmast staysails, and the mizzen and mizzen topmast staysails.

 

 

 

I also added top ropes for all three masts, but like so much of the rigging it doesn't really show well in pictures.

The next 10 stages will see yards and more sails fitted, as well as working on some of the ship's boats. I think in 2-3 months I will finally bring this project to a close.

[Dale Hallier]

About six weeks since my last post, and I have made lots of progress. After adding the topgallant shrouds, I finally began (with some trepidation) the process of the ratlines. The company provided ratline guides sized correctly for each ratline needed which was a huge help in keeping the ratlines level and spaced properly. The instructions suggested an alternative way to do the ratlines to avoid scale issues with the clove hitches that I used, and found it really successful. I know the purists will be shocked that I passed on several thousand clove hitches, but in truth this technique resulted in really well spaced ratlines that were perfectly level, and so I am satisfied with the results. I used a needle to thread the ratline thread through each of the vertical shrouds using the guides provided, and just used glue on the outer shroud edges to seal the ratlines. It still took several days as threading through .8mm and .5mm thread was not simple, but the results were good, and I can only imagine how long the clove hitch method would take. You can see the results in the attached photos.

 

 

 

 

After the ratlines were done, I added the mizzen and the jib and flying jib.

 

 

 

 

While I slowly added the main sails, I also put the ship's lanterns on the stern, finishing the detail here.

 

 

 

I spent quite a while working on the figurehead and motto strip, and despite next to no artistic talent, I was happy with the result when the job was done.

 

 

 

 

Much of the sail work and rigging doesn't show well in photos, so I just added a few pictures. The bottom two yards were held to each mast with a parrel assembled here.

 

 

 

 I did attach some pictures showing the growing complexity of rigging on the ship.

 

 

 

 

All the sails are now attached. I like the look, but can see why many would choose a bare spars option, as you could see so much more of the ship and rigging that way. My wife likes it though, and she is an important audience to please!

 

 

 

Today just attached the anchors and am closing in on completion of the build. Just a few ship's boats and final rigging and flags to attach and I will be done!

 

[Ian_Grant]

Dale,

 

I really like your model, but hate to inform you that you have attached the jibs with the hanks along the wrong edges . The jib sheets should attach at the right-angled corner of the sail; the long edge you have loose should attach to the stay.

 

Just in case you want to fix it. 😐

[Bob Fraser]

Hi Ian.

I have this one to one side, waiting to be started.

Nice catch on this, but in Dales defence - 

Dale has followed the De-Ag instructions, as per the booklet provided, to the letter, and the mistake is De-Ags. 

De-Ags mistake is hard to spot unless pointed out or you've had experience in fitting sails (which I certainly don't!).

Spotting this took a while and a hard look.

Page 437 has this picture,  showing the jib sails the right way,

and page 452 in the instructions, where it describes how to fit them,  this one with the rings on the wrong edge. 

If you look at the sail stitching this is the only way to tell their mistake.

 

Hope this helps,

Bob

Edited October 19, 2021 by Bob Fraser

[Dale Hallier]

Well, almost 15 months to the day and she is finished! I made the four ship's boats and placed them on the skids (unfortunately blocking so much hard work under them that no one will ever see) and put in the dummy cannons.

 

 

 

 

After flags were added, it is a finished model. Things could be improved, but I have really enjoyed the process and learned a lot. I am relieved to finally complete this mammoth project!

 

 

 

Now it can rest in a place of honor at home - and I still have to make a case!

[Ian_Grant]

Very nice model!

[Bob Fraser]

Nicely done Dale, good to see one of these finished, so many fall by the wayside because of the way De-Agostini sold these as an "easy" build.

Well done!

Bob

[Dale Hallier]

Thanks guys.  I think part of the problem is that the start of the ship is so easy and quick with the bulkheads that it seems easy, but then the more challenging work is yet to come! Still, a good experience for me. On to a Victory cross section next.

[Penfold]

I take my hat off to you Dale… that’s a flipping awesome job and a beautiful model.

very well done indeed.

 

[Dale Hallier]

Thanks Penfold. I am doing a much simpler Victory cross section next and then I will try the Bluenose and see if I can get the planking looking as good as yours!

Edited November 9, 2021 by Dale Hallier

[GrandpaPhil]

Congratulations!  Nicely done!