King of the Mississippi by bobandlucy - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:80

[bobandlucy]

This was my first purchase. After reading the instructions I realized that I did not have the skills necessary. So I built Model Shipways Shipwright series of three models, the last being the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. 

 

As a lifelong fan of Mark Twain, I found this model appealing.

 

I found the false keel and bottom warped, and am attempting to straighten before starting assembly. In the meantime, I spent some time removing char from the plywood bulkheads.

 

There are a quite a few logs on MSW for this kit, so I won't repeat posting more than the box cover and overall plan to start:

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 31, 2021 by bobandlucy

[Matt D]

This looks like a really nice kit, Bob.  I will pull up a chair and watch.

[Freezing Parrot]

This does look like a fun one. I'll just sit here on the levee with my bag of fresh beignets and watch, if you don't mind.

[Paul Jarman]

Finished building this kit a while back. It is a very good kit. I painted mine. You are going to enjoy building this kit.

Only tip I can give with AL kits is to read and reread the instructions. You will love building the two staircases.

Paul

[bobandlucy]

Hello all. I was able to get most of the warp out of the bottom and false keel. I think what is left is negligible, we'll see.

 

Paul, I had read through your log, it will be a good resource. Although it will pain me to paint the walnut hull, I probably will as it is more authentic. If you could tell me the specific paint colors you used, it might help with my terminal indecision!

 

Bob

 

[bobandlucy]

Well, after I released the bottom and keel from clamping, the warping appeared to be corrected. After a couple of hours the warping was worse than before. After a period of despair, and looking at the construction,  I hit upon a plan. I glued the false keel to the bottom at the ends only. in the following pic you can see the warping of both pieces:

 

 

Then I added the frames without gluing, thus straightening the keel,  injected glue into the gap between the keel and the bottom between the frames, and with hands gave pressure downward until set. Then one by one glued in the frames with pressure downward until set. I then applied fillets of glue on all joints for insurance. I used Yellow Titebond for this phase.

 

End result is the warping is gone. I believe in ending the day on a high note if possible, so.  . .

 

Edited July 8, 2021 by bobandlucy

[Cathead]

Nice fix!

[Jeff5115]

I just finished this very build tonight.  I have some pictures posted in my build log.  Instructions are lacking so make sure to reference the build plan along the way.  It was fun to build.

[bobandlucy]

Jeff, I will look to your log for clues!

[bobandlucy]

The bottom is still flat this morning!

 

I have a question for those who have built similar models. The instructions call for attaching bulkheads to frames with "white glue and pins." Am I right that these pins are temporary? Seems like they'd need to be removed before laying the finish veneer planks on the bulkheads. . . Thanks

 

Bob

[Cathead]

I've never used pins myself but I'd have to assume the idea is to draw them again once the glue dries. Or you could use a pair of flush cutters to nip off the heads, leaving the shaft of the pin in for strength.

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, Cathead. I think you're right.

 

b

 

[Paul Jarman]

On 7/8/2021 at 8:22 PM, bobandlucy said:

Hello all. I was able to get most of the warp out of the bottom and false keel. I think what is left is negligible, we'll see.

 

Paul, I had read through your log, it will be a good resource. Although it will pain me to paint the walnut hull, I probably will as it is more authentic. If you could tell me the specific paint colors you used, it might help with my terminal indecision!

 

Bob

Its so long since I did this that I can't remember the exact colors. But looking through my stash those that I can remember are Vallejo mahogany on the hull. Dark ochre on the paddle and hand rails. And a mix of reds and blues on other structures. The decks I stained with Antique Pine wood dye. 

Paul

 

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, Paul

[bobandlucy]

I attached one of the bulkheads to the frames after fairing. I soaked the curved end in hot water for 15 minutes. I did not use pins. Set out on the porch to dry in the 105 deg. F heat. Rubber-banding caused a little distortion at the bow, but filler will correct. I guess the pin method would have prevented this, but I doubted my ability to drill and set the pin fast enough before the glue began to dry. I am going to buy an electric drill motor that can accommodate these small pins. The bulkheads are oversized in length, and will require some trimming at the bow.

 

I did not find that the angle of the upper stern was different that that of the false keel, as others have noted, so I placed the stern piece before the bulkhead as the instructions indicate.

 

Wet-bending:

 

 

I lined out the planking on the first deck. . . 

 

 

Began to cut the deck planking to length with my new Micro-Mark Chop-it tool. I like it.

 

 

 

Edited July 12, 2021 by bobandlucy

[bobandlucy]

Gosh, this planking is thin! It's supposed to be 0.6 mm thick, but I measure 0.41.

 

Instructions call for the use of contact cement to attach the planking, and I bought some. Pros and cons to this?

[Cathead]

Personally I would use regular wood glue for all wood-wood contact. Makes a very secure and stable bond, and dries at the right rate (slow enough to allow you to set the joint, fast enough that you're not waiting days).

 

I agree that choppers like that are wonderfully handy.

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, Cathead. I did start with the contact cement and did about 1/6 the area of the first deck. I don't like using it, very tedious and somewhat messy- as well as volatile and requiring mineral spirits for cleanup.. I'll finish with PVA white glue. . . I don't know why they called for  this when white glue is used elsewhere.

 

BTW, I am enjoying your excellently written and organized logs and admire your dedication to research. Thanks for your attention to my "floating wedding cake"! Your Arabia is actually much more to my liking, but I have this model, and I will enjoy building it. I've never been to your part of the country, except in my mind with MT and Huckleberry- but those books are very dear to me and have been part of my life since I was a boy.

 

bob

Edited July 12, 2021 by bobandlucy

[Cathead]

I agree, I don't know why they would suggest that when PVA is so much cleaner and easier to use. May be a translation issue, foreign kits are notorious for poor English.

 

Thanks for the kind words! Lots of people find this kit to be a good entry point and it produces an attractive display piece even if it isn't particularly accurate (which isn't necessarily important). If you enjoy it and want to dive deeper, I strongly recommend Model Expo's Chaperon kit, which is the only accurate wood riverboat kit I know of. Strongly agree on Twain, and one I never get tired of rereading.

[druxey]

White glue with water content will cause a very thin plank to curl. The solution is to moisten the upper side of the plank first, then it won't do that. I suspect contact cement was recommended by the kit manufacturer because s there is only solvent (and nasty stuff at that) in it.

[Cathead]

Huh, I'd never experienced that. I've always used a very thin sheen of wood glue on the bottom side of such pieces, since they aren't under a lot of stress and it ensures glue doesn't squeeze out anywhere else. I can see how overloading the glue might have the effect you mention (and I certainly believe you given your experience). Just interested to hear of it because I hadn't run across that effect.

[bobandlucy]

Druxey and Cathead, thanks to you both for weighing in. I should have absorbed this lesson from the Lobster Smack model, as we were instructed to wet the upper surfaces of the hatches and cabin roof. I will keep a damp sponge handy.

 

On another note, I decided not to show caulking on the planking using either pencil or thread. This model is visually busy enough without, in my opinion.

 

I've been asking myself what I am expecting to get out of this model, as it will take some time to assemble. I could be wrong, but reading ahead in the instructions, it may not rise to the level of art that the Smack did. It does not have the complex curves and pleasing lines of the hull, the delicate rigging, or much challenging shaping of parts. But I will be able to use most of the skills learned.

 

What this kit does offer is possibilities for additional details, plenty of repetitive tasks (there is value in those, if in the right frame of mind), and indulging in some childhood fantasies. . . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Cathead]

2 hours ago, bobandlucy said:

I've been asking myself what I am expecting to get out of this model

This is a fantastic exercise that everyone should engage in! You have a great perspective on thinking this through as part of becoming a better modeler. 

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, Cathead. 

 

I will finish planking the first deck today.

 

Can I throw out a question to any who might have an opinion? From reading the available logs I see that almost everyone applied a clear varnish (I have wipe-on poly) to the deck over stain or bare wood before adding the deck structures. I have so far avoided gluing to painted or varnished surfaces on my models, except for small parts, usually towards the end of the build, and there I would use CA glue. I could use this method, or wait and try to apply the varnish after adding the structures. I am concerned with doing this neatly after the buildings are added. Any advice?

 

Thanks.

[Cathead]

None here, I've never used varnish so have no useful input.

[bobandlucy]

Planking for the first deck is complete. I am doing the rough construction of the buildings and will dry-fit to the first and second decks before opening the slots on the first deck. It looks like the misalignment of the forward building noted in other logs is present. I will probably remove the problematic mounting tab and install with pins instead.

 

Regarding the finishing of the deck, after doing a mock-up, I will varnish, trace the outlines of the building walls, then mask and sand to remove the stain and varnish on the wall footprints. Then glue the building on the deck. At least that's the plan as of now.

 

 

[bobandlucy]

I did the dry-fitting of the buildings and the second deck. Only the foremost slot on the first deck is out of line. Then did a mock-up of planks with pinprick treenails and Summer Oak stain. I think it looks OK. The stain is very subtle, but kind of mutes the blond uniformity of the basswood planking.

 

 

[bobandlucy]

Like everyone building this model, I found that the stem post would not fit as supplied. I took a Dremel tool to it and reshaped the inside curve. I then refined the bow to provide a neat groove for the post. My reshaping resulted in a mismatch between the post and the keel piece.  I glued two pieces of walnut planking scrap to the outside curve of the post, which corrected the mismatch.

 

The stem post should really have rabbets cut to accept the side planking ends (I haven't seen that anyone has done this on other logs for this model). But this is a tough little piece of wood, and I don't think I can do it neatly. I think I will leave the side planks a little long, and then trim to the line of the bulkheads at the groove before installing the stem post. 

 

 

Edited July 21, 2021 by bobandlucy

[bobandlucy]

Mark Twain is watching as I build this model.

 

The hull planking is almost complete. I need to spile (?) two pieces at the bow tomorrow. I have done some light sanding and applied some filler in a few areas. I'm going to paint the hull white. This thing feels as solid as a rock, I bet I could stand on it.

 

 

 

[Bob Fraser]

Looking neat there - you probably could stand on it, but, just in case, think of all the work you've done on the stem! 

Bob