Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Assembling the hull on my first boat kit went quite well although I had to use a moderate amount of filler to address some planking challenges. The filler came from a reputable model boat supplier and was nicely soft enough to easily sand into shape when dry. Time to paint….and that’s when the problems started.

 

Minimal adhesion of paint over any filled areas. Removing masking tape pulled off acres of paint and I’m left with a mess. Suspect that I may have to sand it all off and start again. For paint I was using brushed acrylic and a rattle can of touch up paint. No undercoat. For tape I was using Frog plus a commercial pinstripe for the water-line. 

 

Where did I go wrong? Suggested solutions please!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you need to have a primer before the acrylic paint. Something I have used on wood with filler with good result is tamiya primer on rattle can. I also only use tamiya tape for masking. Here is a trick to put the glued part of the tape on the top of your hand to take away little of the glue before you use it. This is quite common in plastic aircraft modeling.

 

Jörgen

Edited by Jörgen

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sand off the paint that is not right.  Buy a can of shellac (clear or garnet) and one of shellac thinner (likely ethanol).  Make a mixture of thinner and shellac 1:1.  Use a piece of an old T-shirt  to pad it on - just wet no build up.  When dry, dress it with a Scotch Brite pad and tack rag it.  Give a thought to doing another coat of full strength shellac.  A better base for follow-on paint would be difficult to find.  It dries fairly quickly and is not messy.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I very much like the Humbrol spray primer. Goes on thin, sandable, dries quickly, does not smell.  Comes in white, red and grey (most versatile). It will cover everything and solves adhesion issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/14/2021 at 5:33 PM, James H said:

Seal the filler using a varnish or primer before painting. Painting on top of filler will generally mean a bad finish.

 

I. Very familiar with the processes for getting a good finish on plastic, but what to do on wood at this scale is a bit new to me.

 

Do I need to use a wood specific primer or can I use a plastic model primer I have on hand such as vallejo or badger stynalrez?

 

For vanish again do I need to use wood specific ones or can I use hobby plastic model varnishes such as vallejo?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used Stynylrez for many wood models and it has filling properties.  I would use wood varnish myself.  Have no idea if plastic varnish would work - actually I don't even know what you mean by plastic varnish other than the Tamiya name denotes plastic.

Reverse the question - would you use wood varnish on plastic?  Not trying to be a smart*** but I find it a logical question that can guide many decisions with unknown materials.

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

I have used Stynylrez for many wood models and it has filling properties.  I would use wood varnish myself.  Have no idea if plastic varnish would work - actually I don't even know what you mean by plastic varnish other than the Tamiya name denotes plastic.

Reverse the question - would you use wood varnish on plastic?  Not trying to be a smart*** but I find it a logical question that can guide many decisions with unknown materials.

 

By plastic varnish I just meant the primary audience is for plastic models (see the picture below). I wouldn't use "wood varnish" on plastic models because the only ones I am familiar with are designed for use on say furniture. In a pinch I could use a spray can of clear varnish from the hardware store but where it is not specifically designed for small models the results might not be as good or I might get a bit of a tint etc... I guess my question relates more to if I can use many of my acrylic based products that I already own on wood such as the below Vallejo product.

16277487148224714144229535054369.jpg

Edited by Thukydides
Added more detail for clarity
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My cynical response to this is “chemistry is chemistry, the rest is marketing.”  The label on your bottle describes it as a polyurethane varnish.  That might mean that it’s no different chemically from the polyurethane varnishes sold for woodworking applications.   Try it on a piece of scrap and see what happens.

 

I also like the Tamiya primers.  

 

If you bought the filler from a hobby shop, it might actually be some kind of plastic material, so your sealer is actually sealing the plastic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree totally with Roger.  I believe what you show is compatible with wood - but try it to see.

 

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had terrible experience with both wood and plastic for Vallejo primer (falls off if you look at it funny) and Badger was mediocre at best. My black Vallejo primer has been relegated to making washes or just filling in unseen areas. So far, tamiya rattle can or just plain old primer/filler or enamel primer have worked the best. Both tamiya and primer/filler sand wonderfully.  Seems like the more odorous the primer, the better the adhesion so I have pretty much given up on acrylics for priming except for miniatures. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...