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Newbie question re: putty.


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Wondering how many ended up with a bunch of putty and a lot of sanding on their first model.  Lol 

 

I’ve made so many tiny structural planking errors that I will be sanding and inserting putty forever.    I’m reminded of my buddies in high school whose muscle cars were held together mostly by bondo.  
 

I will know better my next time.  

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Not to worry Lag,

Most of us have issues at times getting planking to be tight.  Next time study the tutorials here at MSW by David Antscherl and Chuck Passaro and if you follow their methods you will be able to throw out the putty.   

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Are you doing double planking?  I am a newbie and still on my first build.  I did learn and improve a good bit from first to second planking.  I used a good bit of putty to fill in gaps on first planking.  Didn't use nearly as much on second.  As Allan says I hope to throw it away on next build!

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My first few projects were disasters!  Always available to answer a question if you need a hand.  Cheers!

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I grew up like most teens assembling plastic models.  I naively thought this would be the same process.  Nope!

 

I will likely spend more time sanding than I will assembling.  Lol 

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement.   This is a helpful community. 

Edited by Laggard
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24 minutes ago, Laggard said:

I will likely spend more time sanding than I will assembling.  Lol 

Hi,

 

When removing wood in bulk, the tool sequence is rasp, files, then sandpaper.  Sanding is a finishing step and is not meant for bulk wood removal.  So if one finds they are spending a lot of time sanding it’s time to think about either a rasp or file.  A file can provide a finish that often does not need sanding.  Files offer finer control as well.  Hope this helps.

 

Looking forward to seeing your results!
 

Here is a rasp in action….

 

 

106F628E-430A-4418-9A85-2A391F74C313.jpeg

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53 minutes ago, ERS Rich said:

Hi,

 

When removing wood in bulk, the tool sequence is rasp, files, then sandpaper.  Sanding is a finishing step and is not meant for bulk wood removal.  So if one finds they are spending a lot of time sanding it’s time to think about either a rasp or file.  A file can provide a finish that often does not need sanding.  Files offer finer control as well.  Hope this helps.

 

Looking forward to seeing your results!
 

Here is a rasp in action….

 

 

106F628E-430A-4418-9A85-2A391F74C313.jpeg

Thanks!  

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Rich,    You show a photo a big block of wood  that is being rasped, but I think Laggard's issue is regarding planking.  I may be dead wrong but I would think rasping planking that is less than 0.1" thick to start with could be too hard to control.  I find various shaped home made sanding sticks with  80 or 120 grit take off wood very quickly and are easy to control for flat,  convex, and concave shapes found on a hull. 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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I am with Allan on the home made sanding tools. I have glued sandpaper to the handles of wooden cutlery and then trimmed the overlap. This gives an edge which can get into a corner and a flat area for flattening or reducing bumps. For concave surfaces I have a short length of plastic pipe with two grades of sandpaper stuck to it with double sided tape. It is excellent for work on a hull near the transom.

One other tool is at the end of your arm! I do enjoy sanding a hull by hand and feeling the bumps and the force needed to cut through them and any irregularities that you can't quite see. 

 

George

 

1355485631_toolsandingconcave.thumb.jpg.b5785264a34511d5e03154f53aa2f2f6.jpg

George Bandurek

Near the coast in Sussex, England

 

Current build: HMS Whiting (Caldercraft Ballahoo with enhancements)

 

Previous builds: Cutter Sherbourne (Caldercraft) and many non-ship models

 

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  • 1 month later...

I know what you mean - we've all been there. Fear not - it does get better as you gain experience.

 

By the way, planking one side at a time can result in warping the shape of the model. I've done it once and got away with it, but I wouldn't recommend it as a usual practice.

 

Steven

Edited by Louie da fly
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