HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Steve20 - 1:48

[Steve20]

I could use some advice here. What’s the best method of cleaning in preparation for the poly? Air blowing and wiping down with a lint free cloth doesn’t seem to remove all the dust and I’ve read on the forums of people using thinners and damp cloths. Should I be using something like this to wipe down the Pear before applying the poly? Sorry if this question is a bit basic, but I’ve not used poly before.

[scrubbyj427]

Ver nice work Steve, off to a good start!
 

I usually just use a dry brush to dust it off then wipe it on and wipe it off. Never had a problem and always looks good. 

[Stuntflyer]

Just wipe of any excess dust with a paper towel. You don't have to remove every speck. Apply the Poly with cheese cloth and wipe off excess with the same.

[Steve20]

Thanks scrubbyj and Stuntflyer. I'll stick to just dusting off then wiping on and off just as you say. 

[FrankWouts]

What a nice metamorphosis from the pink cooked pear to the warm brown color wip WOP.
Beautiful work Steve!

Keep the updates coming.

Frank.

[Steve20]

Thanks Frank, but I did not make a proper selection of wood when I started these pieces. You can see a very visible grain and there is a difference in colour that sometimes shows more in other photos. I'll be careful about this in future.

[Steve20]

[Steve20]

I have attached the stem assembly and keel to the bulkhead former and am now ready to place it on the build board.

I will cover the pear with painters’ tape to protect it. Should I add a couple of coats of wipe-on poly for further protection?

[Stuntflyer]

I suppose you could, but honestly I don’t think it’s necessary. The tape should do the job of protecting the wood while it is on the build board.

[Steve20]

Thanks Mike.
I'll leave the poly until later-on then

[James G]

I’m holding off on adding a finish as long as I can. Still haven’t settled on if or what I ultimately want to apply. Since some areas require paint. I prefer to apply needed colors on unfinished wood. Certainly helps the paint to adhere better. Great work so far! I’m basically at the same point you are with my build.

 

Best,

Jim

[FrankWouts]

On 2/13/2023 at 3:51 PM, Steve20 said:

Thanks Frank, but I did not make a proper selection of wood when I started these pieces. You can see a very visible grain and there is a difference in colour that sometimes shows more in other photos. I'll be careful about this in future.

I rather like some color variation, unlike many other builders I know, It gives more variety to the eye, 'on every inch something should happen' ...furthermore, shipyards didn't sort their planks on color I guess, as they were glad to receive the appropriate and enough wood to carry on building I read in one of my many books on English, French and Dutch shipbuilding...

Frank.

[Steve20]

Good point about paint adhesion, Jim. I’ll bear that in mind for the future.

Right now, I’m working on bulkheads in preparation for assembly to the bulkhead former.  I particularly want to simplify the fairing of the bow area and minimise risk of damage to the Pear. I’ve found the below method of pre-assembly to be very useful:

[Steve20]

Edited March 7, 2023 by Steve20

[Steve20]

I pre-drilled four holes in the 'W' bulkhead and secured the bow fillers with 10mm long self tapping screws. I haven't applied any glue yet. The assembly sits firmly in place but it is easy to remove for fairing. If I happen to make a bad mistake on a piece I can just undo the screws and make another. When the time comes to glue everything in position on the bulkhead former the screws will hold the bow fillers tight against the 'W' bulkhead better than a clamp will. The screws can be removed and discarded after gluing.

Edited March 7, 2023 by Steve20

[glbarlow]

Since you’re making your own you may want to mark the grid lines you’ll need to line up the port sills before installing the bulkheads. Your head start on fairing is a nice touch, however the transition between the stern through the first three bulkheads is a challenge as is the last three at the stern. That can only be done on board. There is a flow we all had to find, Fairing defines everything that comes after. I’m sure with your thorough approach you’ll find it. 

[Steve20]

Thanks for the advice, Glenn.

 

The sill lines are particularly essential for me as my bulkheads are not accurate at all. These were my first attempt and I really should make them again, but I'm also dissastified with the stem I've made and I'm sure it will be the same with the stern, the planking and so on. I'm on a continuous learning curve here and improving slowly, so rather than repeatedly going back on myself I decided the best thing to do is finish this model then maybe make the Winchelsea again.

 

I owe a lot to the many people here for their advice and their build logs showing how to do things, and particularly to Chuck for putting this project together. Without it I would have been building a kit and learning nowhere near as much.

[Steve20]

Gammon knee now finished. I am getting better at this.

[Steve20]

Bollard timbers made. I'll put these to one side until needed.

Edited March 11, 2023 by Steve20

[scrubbyj427]

Wow! what an amazing job on those bollard Timbers! I almost want to cut mine off and do them over again now! You’re off to a great start!

[Steve20]

Thanks JJ,

I drilled two 13mm (33/64”) holes at 30-degrees in a piece of ¼” Pear then sliced the sides of the first hole vertically 9/32” wide. I sanded the 9/32” down to ¼” but at an angle to get the rhombus (I looked that up). I then used a micro mill to shape the tops of the timbers.

I sliced the second hole horizontally to obtain the top and bottom pieces that sit between the two uprights then cut these to the correct width.

I found it easier to assemble the bollard timbers by making the bottom piece in one rather than slicing off two filler pieces, and to accommodate this on the model I cut the fore part of the bulkhead former down a little.

The micro mill is a Proxxon MF70, which I only recently bought, and I wouldn’t be without it now. Its small size really limits the accessories that can be used but it’s ideal for indoor use.

Edited March 11, 2023 by Steve20

[Steve20]

[scrubbyj427]

I really need to up my tool game beyond sanding sticks and razor blades. Very impressive!

[James G]

Looks amazing Steve! An example of the skilled ship modeler using right tool at the right time creating perfection.

[glbarlow]

Very nice work on the bollards. I’m a big fan of my Proxxon mill, though clearly you know how to make better use of it than I do. 

[FrankWouts]

Beautiful bollard timbers Steve, wow!

Frank.

Edited March 19, 2023 by FrankWouts

[Steve20]

Thanks James, but master model maker I am not. I’m learning from everybody else here and the standard of work I see in their build logs is so high that it’s making me try very hard.

[Steve20]

Thanks, Glen, but if I can one day build a model half as good as you I will be very happy.

 

Also, I owe you a big thanks for posting the drum sander pic you made for the micro mill, it's a brilliant idea. I hope you don’t mind me copying it as I have now made one.

[Steve20]

Your comment much appreciated, Frank.

[Steve20]

I’ve finally moved on to assembly of the bulkheads. I saw a Hobbyzone build board advertised and since the forum reviews on this are positive, I went ahead and bought it.

My bulkheads are not cut very good and I found some of them were loose after I squared and levelled them, therefore, I put fillers between every other pair and assembled them two at a time. I’ll also have areas to pad out later, which I’ll deal with as I progress.

My (three) key points of reference for assembly were the stem and stern bulkheads and the bulkhead in the middle as measured by the lowest gunport. Taking the height of lowest gunport sill from bottom of keel this proved to be bulkheads ‘C’ and ‘E’ so I positioned these bulkheads first and worked fore and aft from ‘C’ and ‘E’ bulkheads in the middle.  Although I levelled and squared every bulkhead to the build board, I also checked that each was true to the stem, stern, and middle bulkheads and a string line I centred on the stempost and stern.