HMS Bellona by Chief Williams - Corel - 1/100

[Chief Williams]

I've just started this kit, I wasn't going to do a build log, as I'm not in the habit of doing it, but with Bellona I will need to scream for help from more experienced model shipwrights, and it would help if you knew what stage I'm at.  I've spent a month going through the drawings, and instruction booklet, as well as checking all the parts in the box against the parts list in the booklet. 

 

I hit a problem as the parts list didn't call up the plate that the parts were shown in, and as there are a set of 14 very detailed drawings, I decided to transfer the lot to a spreadsheet that would allow me to reference each part to the material it’s made from, and also the plate(s) that it appeared on.  From this, I could also build a Bill of Materials of what should be in the box, a thing that Corel flatly refused to supply.  This allowed me to check everything that was in the box against the BOM, to reassure myself that I wasn’t going to be waiting for Corel to supply me with anything that was missing.

 

Up to now, and I’ve only just started fitting the frames, it’s been a great help.  If anyone is thinking of starting this kit, I’d be extremely happy to give them a copy of my spreadsheet with the attached BOM. I’m not sure how to do a private message in this forum, but if you do, get in touch and I’ll email it to you.

 

 

 

End of the first day's work, all the frames fitted and assembled.  No glue yet, I've got the decks and a few other odds and sods to do before I open my glue bottle.  

[Chief Williams]

I've had another good look at the drawings, and I didn't like the sharp curve that the planks would have to make as the approached the bow, so I decided to put a bass wood filler between the first frame (3), and the bow cheek (2)

 

  

 

Here's the port filler roughed out ready for sanding to shape.

 

 

And here's the port filler nearly finished.  Here's my first question.  Do you think it's worth cutting a bearding line into the keel to hide the jointing of the planks to the keel?  The plywood the keel is made from isn't high quality, and I don't know if a bearding line would cause more problems than it solved.  I think another filler between the second and third frames might come in handy as well.  There isn't a gunport there so it should help.

 

Another thing I've noticed now I've got the frames on, is that the keel has a definite warp to it.  As I haven't glued anything, I'm going to take it all apart and sandwich the keel between a few heavy books to see if I can't straighten it. Any advice on how to cure a bent plywood keel would be gratefully accepted.

Edited December 22, 2021 by Chief Williams
bad grammar

[Chief Williams]

I've finished roughing out the fillers for the bow as you can see from the attached photo, and I'll finish them when I do the fairing for the rest of the frames.  I've decided against a bearding line, as I don't think the plywood of the keel would take kindly to it.  One disadvantage of Corel's supplying ready cut items is that there aren't any scrap bits to experiment on, or perish the thought, if I broke a part, there's nothing to make a replacement from.

 

 

The festive season's here, and I don't think I'm going to be allowed a lot of time in my workshop until after it's all over, so have a very happy Christmas, and let's hope that the new year is a lot better than the old one.

 

 

[harlequin]

looks like a good start....there was nothing missing from my corel Bellona...as for the bearding line....i did one on mine and was very careful.....untill i dropped Bellona and snapped the bow off....see pics on my build log......

[Chief Williams]

I dropped Bellona and snapped the bow off.....

 

At what stage of the build should I plan on dropping it to break the bow off, before or after I've started planking? 😁

[allanyed]

9 hours ago, Chief Williams said:

At what stage of the build should I plan on dropping it to break the bow off, before or after I've started planking?

Chief,

THAT was funny.  It happens to all of us, but it is never planned.   Just as I was taking some of  the last photos for the volume 2 manuscript of Euryalus , she got bumped and rolled off the photo table onto the concrete floor.  A few small things snapped of and it took some hours to fix what happened in a few seconds so caution is key at all times.  

Allan

 

[harlequin]

get it in early.....😄

[Chief Williams]

I've already broken (and repaired) one of the bulkhead stanchions on one of the frames, I was a bit too heavy handed trying to sand the socket to fit the keel.  I just don't know my own strength.......

[Chief Williams]

I took a break from the festivities and started to cut a bearding line, when I noticed that the internal wood of the keel was almost white, which would make it stand out against the walnut planking, so I decided to run a length of 0.6mm Tanganyika along the keel to hide it.

 

I used bamboo toothpicks and PVA to hold the runner, and I'm hoping that when the planking is done it won't be too noticeable, or make the keel look out of scale.

 

.

 

also, while I was cutting the rabbet, I noticed the top layer of the plywood keel was not completely attached to the inner bit, making the accurate cutting of the bearding line impossible.  The planks should cover that up though.

Edited December 27, 2021 by Chief Williams
Spelling

[hamilton]

Looks like a neat fix. I actually just started working on this kit, too - at the stage where I've installed most of the bulkheads (barring 15 and the stern framing). And I also made a gigantic spreadsheet - a parts list, rigging tables, belaying info, etc. I find this an incredibly useful exercise in complex builds like this, as time consuming as it is - a great way to prepare and map out the build in a more intentional way.

 

I decided against carving a rabbet joint into the centre keel after doing a test on a small section in mid-ships - the material is too cheap! The veneer just crumbles and flakes and the interior material is so soft and spongey that it seems impossible to get a clean line. 

 

I'm not going to be keeping a log - my full time work limits my modelling time, and I have a semi-active log for another build on the go here, but I'll follow you here and hopefully be of some help if you hit any snags along the way!

hamilton

[Chief Williams]

Hiya Hamilton, I started to cut the rabbet, and found like you said that the material is cheap and won't take a straight cut.  I decided to carry on and make as good a job as I could of it, and apart from three place where the veneer just fell off, it didn't turn out too bad, if you don't look too closely.  I've fitted all the frames and the decks but I won't be gluing anything for a long time yet.  I have had a stab at the roundhouses and the planking of the beak deck, but that was just because I got bored.

 

 

The glass on my workbench is water, honest.  This will be the most complicated model I've ever made, so I'll be immensely grateful for all the help offered.  

 

Just as an aside, it's 32 C (90 F) in the shade here.

Edited January 3, 2022 by Chief Williams
Spelling

[hamilton]

Of course! Water! Never a doubt!

 

Looks like we're at about the same stage in the build - I've glued up the frames and main deck on the keel (except the stern frames, which I've assembled but which need some tweaking).

 

One thing I've been considering is adding main deck coamings and planking prior to installing the poop deck and f'csl - though the kit plans show the full assembly of the hull framework complete prior to planking the main deck, but I feel like the poop deck and quarterdeck would make this more tricky than. it needs to be...just a thought! In preparation for this option, I marked out the areas of the hatches/capstan platform/ mast partners, and painted them black to add depth beneath the hatch gratings. I'll probably build up the coamings and plank around them if I can find time on the weekend....

 

In any case, looking forward to more updates - at the risk of annoying the admins (since I have already one languishing build log here already) I may end up starting one here for Bellona too! 

 

Take care - hope the heat doesn't get too bad down there

hamilton

[Chief Williams]

Back to Bellona after a break for the holidays.  I've been looking at the chinese puzzle that's the frames/deck assembly and trying to work out the best way of assembling the frames so that I can get the decks in as well, taking into account the lugs that fit the main deck into frame 6, and also the lugs that fit the foc'sle to frame 3.  I think I start with frame 12 and work forward, up to frame 6, but frame 6 has to be fitted with the main deck lugs in place.  After that's all fitted and pinned/glued/elasticed down for the deck camber, then I fit frames 5 and 4, then frame 3, with the foc'sle lugs and deck in place.  pin/glue/elastic the foc'sle down, and bob's your auntie.  For now, though, that's a week or so in the future.  I'm not even thinking about the stern galleries yet.

 

I've been reinforcing the frames using bits of basswood to give me a better purchase when I start planking, and also to give more strength to the deck camber from when I try to pin it down.  Past experience has shown me that 4mm bass ply isn't enough to hold the camber in place. (I think it's bass plywood).

 

 

 

 

I've not started fairing in yet, I'm saving that joy for later.

 

Here's the assemble with the decks fitted.  I borrowed a brilliant idea from Hamilton, and painted the areas under the gratings black to give a bit of depth when the gratings are fitted.  Thank you, sir.

 

 

 

 

I've got a fairly free week, so I hope to be making a lot more progress with this.  As always, and hints tips or criticisms will be gratefully accepted.

Edited January 10, 2022 by Chief Williams

[Chief Williams]

So much for a free week and making more progress.  Who was it said that 'Work expands to fill the time allowed'?  What  with all the things that Mrs Chiefy found for me to do, and the fact that it's 36 C in my workshop by 11:00 I've not got much done.  I live in the southern hemisphere, and the summer is being a beaut.

 

I did manage to get the after frames done though, all glued and trued 

 

 

 

The first shot shows the broken bit of frame 12 quite well.  I've saved it to try and stick on later.  Hopefully there'll be more to follow at weekend.

 

I've just invested in a Proxxon 28481 IBS/E rotary tool.  I've been coveting one for a long time, and my wife had her back turned for a minute, so I bought one.  It's on it's way from Australia, so I might get it by August.  I'd be interested to hear anyone's thoughts on this bit of kit.  I've been using my Dremel 8220 constantly and I'm very pleased with it, but I always thought there could be something better.  I'll let you know how I get on when I get it setup and working, just don't hold your breath.

 

 

[Chief Williams]

I've got the main deck on, and I'm going to put most of the deck furniture and planking on this before I go any further, as it would be too fiddley, if not impossible, to try and do that with all the other decks in place.  I've stuck in a few pictures of my first attempts at hatches.

   

 

the hatches aren't stuck down yet, or even properly sanded for deck camber and finish.  I'm not going to paint the model apart from a few small details, as i think it would be a shame to hide the wood.  Maybe a thin coat of tung oil?

 

The Proxxon's not arrived yet, and my Dremel is playing up, so everything's slowed down at the moment.  It's funny that you don't know how much you rely on a tool until it's not available.

Edited January 28, 2022 by Chief Williams

[hamilton]

Hi Chief Williams:

 

I realised that I forgot to "follow" your log and have clearly missed a tonne of updates!! She's looking great so far. I think that the main deck hatches only need light sanding for the deck camber - and if the plan is to embed the hatches in the deck planking then this may be more minimal still. 

 

I laid a strip of sand paper slightly wider than the hatches along the centre line of the main deck and secured it with a bit of rubber cement. I then very lightly sanded down the hatches to match the deck camber in this way - it did not take long, but I'm not convinced it was necessary for these hatches.

 

Anyways - enjoy the nice weather and bye for now

hamilton

[Chief Williams]

Thanks, Hamilton, for the tip about the sandpaper, it's so logical that I never thought of it.   The QHM released me from domestic duties and cleaning stations, so I've been able to get some work done on the planking.  I've got a thing about scale planks even though it makes it look scruffier. At a scale of 1/100 and an admiralty plank spec. of 22 to 24 feet, I decided to even things out and make my deck planks 70mm, which would equate to a plank size of 23 feet, and it also fitted in quite nicely with the dimensions of the main deck.  How it fits with the other decks I'll wait to find out.  Here's a picture of the fwd planking of the main deck.

 

 

The sanding and finishing isn't quite complete, I intend to finish with some 1000 grit glass paper, and then a very thin coat of tung oil.  I've set the hatches into the planking which meant I didn't need to sand too much of a camber into them.

 

 

 

 

This shows the fettling around the coamings of the hatches. I used some scrap 4 x 0.8mm Tanganyika I had from a previous kit, which successfully covered up the fact that I didn't sand the camber properly into the hatches.  Anything for a quiet life... 

 

One thing I have found though is that the quality of the deck planking in 3 x 0.6mm Tanganyika is not the best.  One edge of each plank is usually straight while the opposite one varies from nearly straight to very wavy  I had to choose the planks carefully to finish the main deck, and it looks like I may not have enough material to do the other three.  I'll have to go online and try and source some, which is not easy, living at the back end of the world like I do.

 

 

I've 'suggested' the caulking of the deck by using a 2B pencil along the edges of the planks.  Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.  I'm hoping that the tung  oil will bring out the seams better.

 

Now my next task is the photo-etched brass furniture fwd and aft of the main deck.  I'm going to give it a coat of yellow ochre to take away the shine of the brass, but up to now, I can't get an even coat.   I'll keep experimenting until I get it right.

 

As an aside, it's high summer down here and we're going through a patch of very wet, humid weather which has affected all the stock in the kit, making it very damp and bendy.  Just wait until I come to plank the hull, it will be mad hot and bone dry, and my planks will turn into splinters.  That's what the hobby is all about though isn't it!

 

My Proxxon rotary tool arrived and I am over the moon with it.  I've been told three times by the QHM to shut up about it, as she is getting fed up with being told how good it is.   

Edited February 11, 2022 by Chief Williams

[hamilton]

Hi Chief Williams

 

Looking really good - once its oiled up the deck will really look good. I used a pencil as I was planking, run along the edges of the planks and like you it seemed to have a more than subtle effect until I applied some wipe-on polyurethane and then things looked much better. So I imagine the same will be for you. Happy modelling

hamilton

[harlequin]

looking great so far

[Chief Williams]

Here's my progress so far.  I got the frames for the foc'sle on and planked it the same way as the main gundeck.  I'd got a pack of Chinese walnut on eBay, and She Who Must Be Obeyed said it might be nice if I outlined the gratings in it.  Historical accuracy went out of the window, and I did as I was told.  I think it looks quite nice though. Chinese walnut seems to be a lot darker than the European, so it gives a better contrast against the Tanganyika. 

 

 

 

When all the deck furniture is fitted, and the masts and rigging are up I think that will blend in nicely.  You can see the broken frame I've mentioned before, frame 12, I'll have to try and make a dummy bit to form the planks on to.  It won't be visible from the inside, as the quarter deck will cover it up, but I'll know it's there.

 

Next job is the quarter deck, but I'm debating whether to put some upper hull planking on first, so I can cut gunports and fit the four cannon that go under the quarter deck first.   Any suggestions gratefully accepted.

 

 

Edited February 21, 2022 by Chief Williams

[harlequin]

great to see a couple of corels Bellona's being built on here.....i had bad and good times with the kit, but it really is a beauty....looking great so far..

[hamilton]

Nice progress Chief! Is the f'csl installed now, or just dry fit? 

 

Even though I know we've talked about installing the q-deck first, I'm now questioning this idea - primarily because it requires installing some main deck features that might get damaged and/or dislodged in the planking process (considering how the model needs to be manipulated during planking) - namely, the canons, the aft capstan and the main sheet and jeer bitts)....working out the build sequence at this stage is very tricky. I think that once I've completed the stern framing, I'll move onto the planking, as seems to be suggested in Corel's documentation. Once the first planking is complete, it will be safer, I think, to return to the main deck features and to the q-deck.

 

As for the broken bulkhead extension - that's a touch one. This has happened to me in the past and I've just secured the broken-off part to the main part, and reinforced in on either side with thin strip wood. If you still have the broken-off part, this approach might work for you. 

 

Another idea would be to make a tracing of the extension on the starboard side and then cut out a new extension from scrap wood. Then saw off the remaining extension on the port side flush with the deck. You can then fix the worked-up extension onto the main part - might be good to drill some small holes for pegs to reinforce the connection between the two parts. It would have to be treated very gingerly during the planking....other more experienced builders may have other suggestions - you might start a topic in one of the other forums here to see what solutions you can drum up from other members.

 

Take care down there and bye for now

hamilton

[Chief Williams]

Hiya Hamilton, I've just come to that same conclusion, I started the stern framing today, and I'll get on to the first planking after that, and I'll leave the quarterdeck and poop for when the hull is a lot more stable.

 

I've fixed the broken bulkhead with a peg but it's difficult to get the alignment right.  I'll keep trying.

 

Look after yourself in the snowy north.

[hamilton]

I think that as long as the part is decently aligned outboard to provide a good foundation for the planking you'll be ok - some minor adjustments might be needed depending on how the piece you re-fixed aligns with the faces of the bulkhead extensions forward and aft of it. It's quite amazing how sometimes what seem like debilitating errors aren't as significant as they appear when they first occur.

hamilton

[Chief Williams]

Totally agree Hamilton.  It's just as well, because in my usual ham-fisted manner I've just broken the tip of another frame off. I won't publish a photo of it as I feel embarrassed.  My stern framing's coming along apace, I'm glad I took your suggestion and did it before the quarterdeck.

 

 

Here's the balcony deck (?) in its raw form and after planking.  As you can see, I haven't put the brass on the bulkhead yet, I've made a right pig's ear of painting it, I can't seem to get a streak free finish, so it's going to go on as it is, and hope no-one looks too hard at it. 

 

I've tested the fit of the brass, and that's good, so I went ahead and put the stern gallery cheeks in.

 

 

Here's the upper cheeks

 

 

And the lower cheeks before I form them for the planking run.  I'll save that until tomorrow though, to make sure the glue is dry. That last phot shows up how the ply split when I tried to put a nail in to hold the deck down.  I wish I'd pre-drilled it....

[hamilton]

Looking good Chief!

 

I think it's wise to hold off on any brass parts that might not be insulated from damage through the mechanical action of working on the model. I think that, unless things shift as I go along, I will put off doing more with the stern area after framing it out until the outboard planking is done and the model doesn't have to be so much "in hand".

 

Finishing the brass is a quandary for me too. I know that in the metal-working section of MSW there are some good tips on brass finishing - mostly blackening, but some tips for painting as well. I'll have to spend some time identifying the useful ones again, taking some notes and doing some planning. Many seem to advocate washing the brass in acetone and rinsing with water as a preparation for blackening - not sure if this also produces positive results for painting, but I may try a few experiments with some bits of old brass I have lying around from other models. 

 

When painting on wood, there is a definite advantage to diluting the paint slightly - the thicker the paint, the more streaky it will tend to appear. The quality of the brush is also an issue - the softer the better to avoid streaking. Watered down paint will require many more coats for a good finish, but the outcomes will be nicer - though I do not know whether these principles apply to brass - the runniness of a watered down paint reduces its grip regardless of the "toothiness" of the surface....

 

Anyway, I'll share whatever I find in my searches and hopefully we can help each other get to a nice even finish on these fiddly brass bits....

 

Bye for now

hamilton

[harlequin]

i did the brass for the cabin doors in a primer followed by admiralty paints yellow ochre, same for the quarter gallery windows as well as using brass blackener for the other transom and quarter gallery decorations.  

 

 

 

 

Edited February 24, 2022 by harlequin
include pictures

[harlequin]

also....talking of snapping things.....dont do what i did and break the bow completely off when i dropped Bellona....

Edited February 24, 2022 by harlequin
spelling mistake

[hamilton]

A good repair though Harlequin!

 

I've been puzzling a bit over the finishing of the brass as well. When I built Mamoli's America I finished the skylight in white and blue using a straight pin as an applicator, since the areas to cover were very tiny. This allowed much more precise application, though you need good free-standing maginification to get it done - at least with the poor eyes I have....There was a time when I was convinced that my modelling practice actually improved my vision!! Now I'm not so sure.....

hamilton

[Chief Williams]

Here I am, back after a bout with the bug.  It had all the symptoms of COVID, but the tests kept coming back negative.  I'm about over it now, thank goodness.  I would like this entry to be titled 'What Not To Do When You Aren't Feeling 100%' and the first line of that would be: Don't undertake any planking.

I thought I would be able to get on with the first planking run at least, but as you can see from the attached pictures, I've made a right mess of it.  

 

 

I hold my hands up, if I could start again I would.  My major mistake was that I didn't complete the fairing of the bulkheads before I started to plank.  in a better state of mind, I would have checked the run of the planks before I fitted any of them, and adjusted the fairing to suit,  but in my befuddled state, I just jumped in and started planking with the results as shown.  I'm going to carry on with it and hope I can make it all better when I come to put the second planks on.  Fingers crossed and watch this space.......