HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss

[shipaholic]

Hi Mike

I assume you mean the main Topmast preventer stay. Not sure where you are looking on page 114 but I can't see it. The correct way is a block lashed at the bottom of the hounds as shown on page 101. I did check other references such as Lees when I did mine because I don't trust the AOTS.

 

Cheers

Steve

 

PS I looked further and I see now, you were looking at page 117 not 114, the drawing appears to show the block lashed to the ring, but the ring is for the sail rigging not the stay

Edited December 22, 2014 by shipaholic

[mikec]

thanks Steve, you are right I got the page numbers wrong, so there should be an eyeboltin the centre of the hounds just above the block?

[shipaholic]

Mike

I wouldn't bother with an eyebolt. Anything that needs to be fastened there could be done to the collar of that stay block. Are you fitting sails?

Steve

[geoff]

Hi Mike , I am really enjoying your fantastic Endeavour build as I hope to start my Caldercraft version early in the new year. I notice you stowed your anchors with the fluke resting on the side of the vessel. With the ship rolling couldn't this lead to a hole being bashed in the side? Not a criticism, just an observation, but I could be wrong of course! all the best, Geoff 

[mikec]

I Hope everyone is having a great Christmas / New year break. I am, and I am managing to get in plenty of modelling time.

I am working on the masts and tops. Whilst rigging the various standing items to the masts, I made a break through discovery, that I haven't seen anyone else use. Hat Elastic!

It is formed in the same pattern as served rope, and is perfect in scale. The elastic is easly glued with superglue and very strong. To form eyes- I simply applied a drop of superglue to the end of the elastic, and once hardened, I could cut a neat clean edge to join to the standing part of the elastic (rope).

 

The elastic also gives a nice tension and allows easy manoeuvarability on the mast. I have posted some extreme close ups to show. The macro pics  don't really do justice, but you can get the idea.   Sorry, I am not blowing my own trumpet but wanted to share the discovery with you, as the result is very neat, and realistic to the naked eye.  I was also wandering if anyone else has used this?

 

here are the pics...

 

[mikec]

And the tops...

[mikec]

Please note, I bevelled and scribed the planks, so that the planking pattern will show once I paint the tops black.

[shipaholic]

Hi Mike

I'm just wondering how you came upon the hat elastic discovery, was it wearing a party hat at Christmas? The pics look great, I might investigate this idea too, good work.

Cheers

Steve

[mikec]

Lol, unfortunately no such frivolity. I discovered it by accident, I was working on my boat and needed a sewing needle so went to my wifes sewing box. at the time I was wearing my modelling magnification lenses and when I opened the box I saw the elastic, (magnified) and noticed that it looked like seized rope.

So I thought I would experiment and the  result speaks for itself.

 You can get a variety of sizes. search for round hat elastic on the web.

[BANYAN]

That's a great tip, and nice looking rigging mate - your Endeavour is coming along really nicely.

 

edit:  my only concern would be longevity as elastic tends to break down after awhile - have you any feedback from the 'seamstress' in your life

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited December 30, 2014 by BANYAN

[aliluke]

Hat elastic! Brilliant and looks great - going to try this. Where does your wife buy it? Spotlight?

[mikec]

Thanks for the feedback, re "hat elastic". Good point Pat,  but I am thinking that it only breaks down due to continous stretching and handling?

I am banking on the fact that it is static in its use. I guess time will tell (I am happy to take the gamble).

 

I am really enjoying my summer break from work, the weather has been beautiful, and amongst the bbqs, family time, beers, sailing and long walks, I have managed to finish the all the lower masts and tops, and have also added the swivel guns. I used chucks excellent barrels, and copied B.E's way of manufacting the mounts from Amatis hooks. I also used these hooks to create the swivel handle spike. Thanks B. E. I am very happy with resulting swivel guns. They look very realistic, and perfect scale. The kit guns were way out of scale, and extremely poor quality-basically toy like.

Apologies for the poor photos...

 

[mikec]

And here are shots of the swivel guns...

[shipaholic]

Mike the tops and swivel guns look fantastic, good work

[DaveRow]

Coming along very nice Mike.

Crows Nests look very real, whole boat looking great.

 

Dave R.

[mikec]

Hi everyone, I have made the topmasts and have test fit. All were shaped by hand from dowel stock. (NZ Rimu)

Here are some pics...

[mikec]

The peices were then masked and spray painted matt black

[mikec]

assembled tops

[mikec]

aerial shots... the closeup  shot looking down on the top clearly illustrated the tops construction details. I bevelled the edges of the planks so that you can see the planking, after it hasbeen painted. I was very pleased with the result.

Edited February 1, 2015 by mikec

[mikec]

some general shops of how she looks now...

[kiwiron]

She looks great,well done,I like the aerial and whole ship photos.

[BANYAN]

Nice work Mike; they look great and avoid my errors

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Hi Mike,

Your detail pictures are great. Will surely help me when I get to this stage. Makes sense seeing things made than trying to working out from views on plans.

 

Keep them coming - great stuff.

 

Dave R 

[Blue Ensign]

Fine work on the masts and tops Mike, and I just love those latest series of shots of her, your attention detail is very evident. the close-up shots of the seized and served strops are impressive, I really must raise my game in that area.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[mikec]

Spent more time in dockyard this weekend. Took a break from masting to attend another item I hadn't been looking forward to doing - the Binnicle lashings to the deck. I knew that at this scale they would be very tricky, and so it proved. 

 

I made the hooks from 0.5mm x 1mm copper eyebolts. And lashed to deck in situ rather than on a jigg. 

I kept the seizings loose, and the thread longer than it needed to be, to enable me tighten the lashing using tweezers and fingers...

 

Tighten seizing by pulling on two seizing ends, apply spot of superglue, and trim using nail clippers.

 

Note: I use nail clippers to do most of my trimming of rigging lines, it is a lot safer- if you slip you wont accidentally cut another rigged line.

This is learnt from experience, where I indeed slipped whilst trimming a line with a scalpel, and cut through previous rigging .

Edited February 9, 2015 by mikec

[rowand]

Great work Mike...

 

Cheers,

 

Rowan D.

[mikec]

Hi, after a wee break-I have started to rig the canons. I made the "GR" cypher by photo copying onto decal paper. I then shined a small patch of the blackend brass barrel back to bare metal, so that the black decal will show. to the naked eye it now looks like the raised cypher.  I also detailed the trucks using toothpick for the axle and 0.25 wire for the wheel lock pins.

 

sorry for the poor camera photos.

 

Now to tackle the tackles...

[Tallshiptragic]

This has to be one of the best Endeavour models I've ever seen! Such a clean and crisp build and I especially like the subtle paint finish.

[mikec]

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. I appreciate your support.

I am trying to figure out the correct way to rig the crows foot. I have done some research and so far, all have a centre hole in the top and equal amount of holes port and starboard. This enables you to finish the tie in last hole and lash to the previous line beneath the top. (As per "How to rig period model ships")  AOTS calls for either 14 or 18 holes so there is no center hole to start off. No matter what configuration I try, I can't make it work. Is the AOTS wrong? I am trying to follow the guide in "How to rig period ship models" which clearly shows a centre hole to start so it has a balanced finish . Help required please.

 

I have done a rough sketch. the one on the left is has odd number (centre hole) the one on the right is Endeavours top.

Edited April 17, 2015 by mikec

[Fam]

Mikec,

if you start rigging from hole #1 in the top (e.g. to port), using a stopper knot at the end of the line and passing it from below the top to above the top, then go down to port side of hole #1 in the euphroe, up to hole #1 at starboard (passing from above to below the top), then go to hole #2 at starboard (passing below the top), then from above the top down to hole #2 of euphroe from starboard, etc... Would it work?

Fam