HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Kurt Bainum - 1:48 in cherry

[Kurt Bainum]

 I have never built a ship model before. The Revel 1/96 USS Constitution as a child does not count right? 50 years ago anyway. Searching the internet looking for what kit to buy to learn how to build a wooden ship model I happened upon this group. Lucky I did. There is a lot of teaching going on here. Chuck has came up with a great design and a program for making a ship modeller out of me. I am a woodworker with a full shop so I bring something to the table. I purchased the plywood and casting set to get started but I may scratchbuild the rest. I have lots of furniture grade wood around the shop so I may use cherry. I have a 60 watt desktop laser cutter and 3D resin printers to play with too.

 

 

All plywood tends to be uneven so I ran the bulkhead pieces through the thickness sander with a light pass just because I have one handy. Perhaps having a precise frame is a good beginning?

 

 

I drew up some keel brackets in Sketchup.

 

Then cut them out on my desktop laser cutter. It took two passes to cut through the MDF. Plywood would have been better with one pass but it is done now.

 

I milled slots in the keel support strips with my old Unimat. Had this from my childhood. Fun to bring it out sometimes.

 

I am using an Ikea cabinet door for the drydock. Smooth flat surface. I drilled and taped the particle board for 4-40 machine screws. Crazy but it works! 

 

I made my brackets to clear the keel strips so they can be adjusted independently. The keel may be a different thickness than the plywood.

 

Let the making of sawdust and shavings begin!

Kurt

 

[Matt D]

Welcome to the group, Kurt!  That looks like a very nice start.  I'm looking forward to seeing your work on this beauty.

[glbarlow]

Welcome. Great start, your excellent wood working skills are clearly evident already.  

[FrankWouts]

Welcome Kurt,

You bring a lot of good wood working experience to this group and I like your style of writing. It will

be great reading your log and following your build!

Frank.

[Kurt Bainum]

I am so far behind you all.

 

I ripped some cherry on the bandsaw and thickness sanded them.

 

 

It is a small laser cutter but it cuts through the 1/4" cherry ok. I could have cut these out on the scroll saw but I thought that would be cheating. Real men use a coping saw anyway. Right?

 

 

My cut parts seem to fit together ok.

 

 

Using maple for the rabbet I stuffed it into the scrap plywood from Chuck's bulkhead kit and heated it with a heat gun until  it relaxed into shape. Much hotter than a hair dryer.

 

 

I glued the rabbet strip to the stem and keel first. I hope that works out for me.

 

 

I drew up 3D versions of the bollard timbers in Sketchup from Chuck's imported drawings.

 

 

Sliced and supported in Chitubox software for 3D resin printing.

 

 

I printed two at the same time. At 20um layer thickness it took 7 hours to print. I still have some refinements to the shape of the moldings before a final print.

 

 

An early test print with the laser cut cherry version behind.  This part gets painted black so I saw no harm in making it out of resin. If I did make a wood one I could sandwich a piece of cherry between two resin pieces  as a guide and file the wood down to the resin. I may try that on another part that will be exposed wood. I will give the .stl file if anyone wants it.

 

This is my first wood ship model ever. I hope I am not committing a crime or violating some tradition by bringing in a 3D printed part here. Please let me know. Interested in your thoughts.

Kurt

[Chuck]

Thats fine but that test piece does look too low.  But its great to see you using the tools that you feel comfortable with.

[glbarlow]

Well, you’re not that far behind me. Enjoy seeing your full scale woodworking tools in action.  It seems with your skillls making the bollards out of wood doesn’t seem to be a stretch. 

Edited January 17, 2022 by glbarlow

[FrankWouts]

On 1/16/2022 at 11:35 PM, Kurt Bainum said:

I am so far behind you all.

 

I ripped some cherry on the bandsaw and thickness sanded them.

 

 

It is a small laser cutter but it cuts through the 1/4" cherry ok. I could have cut these out on the scroll saw but I thought that would be cheating. Real men use a coping saw anyway. Right?

 

 

My cut parts seem to fit together ok.

 

 

Using maple for the rabbet I stuffed it into the scrap plywood from Chuck's bulkhead kit and heated it with a heat gun until  it relaxed into shape. Much hotter than a hair dryer.

 

 

I glued the rabbet strip to the stem and keel first. I hope that works out for me.

 

 

I drew up 3D versions of the bollard timbers in Sketchup from Chuck's imported drawings.

 

 

Sliced and supported in Chitubox software for 3D resin printing.

 

 

I printed two at the same time. At 20um layer thickness it took 7 hours to print. I still have some refinements to the shape of the moldings before a final print.

 

 

An early test print with the laser cut cherry version behind.  This part gets painted black so I saw no harm in making it out of resin. If I did make a wood one I could sandwich a piece of cherry between two resin pieces  as a guide and file the wood down to the resin. I may try that on another part that will be exposed wood. I will give the .stl file if anyone wants it.

 

This is my first wood ship model ever. I hope I am not committing a crime or violating some tradition by bringing in a 3D printed part here. Please let me know. Interested in your thoughts.

Kurt

If that could be printed in wood, I'd like to order some with you! 

[westwood]

it's really possible Frank...
I mean, partly

"EasyWood is a PLA-based 3D printer filament that is filled with 40% wood particles..."

EasyWood

It's even a Netherlands company.

[Kurt Bainum]

 

I refined the shape of the resin printed timbers. They are a press fit into Chuck's laser cut bulkheads.  I will provide all .stl files I develop for this model for free to this group. It is the least I can do for all that you guys are teaching me. I will be doing a 3D model of the range for example and other such small parts that will be painted. Once you have the .stl files you can have it printed or CNC milled out of whatever material you want. I am new here. I just need to know where to post the files or how they should be distributed.

Kurt

 

Edit:

I just saw in a book that the piece between was dovetailed into the timbers like this. I will print another and see how it looks.

Edited January 19, 2022 by Kurt Bainum

[Kurt Bainum]

 

I did not glue the bulkheads together until later. I placed a 1/4 x 1/4 batten on the deck and wired it down with copper wire. This pulled all the deck edges into vertical alignment while still allowing horizontal adjustment for squaring and gun port pieces. I cut a spacer to fit on top of the batten for gluing in the gun port sills. I am making this up but I figure that the distance from deck to port height is important for the guns to all line up and have a good deck line at the same time.

 

I made another larger spacer to set the gun port opening vertically. Then I ran diluted glue into the plywood bulkhead joints.

 

 

Not sure if this is correct but this made all my gun ports level from side to side. Perhaps they should match the camber of the deck instead?
 

 

Planing is faster than sanding.

 

 

I fared the plywood after installing the gun ports making things more solid. I came up shallow at the bow pieces so added more wood there and planed down again.

 

Fun part of sawing out plywood. I added extra wood for support first.

 

Finding the location of bow ports. Don't know how you guys do it.

 

 

I saw this in one of your posts here. A sanding stick long enough to be supported through a port on the other side. I am learning!

 

 

I made these ports tangent to the curve of the hull. I hope that is right.

 

 

A sanding jig from Micro Mark. My new best friend!

 

 

I put blue on the rabbet strip and stopped thinning the deadwood when blue started coming off. I went past the bearding line to get a good fairing. Hope this works out.

Still having fun,

Kurt

 

[dvm27]

You are correct. The ports should be parallel athwartships. Using a sanding stick as you are doing is a great way to insure this is the case.

[scrubbyj427]

Looking good Kurt! I Like the planing idea, lots of material to remove.

[glbarlow]

I recommend a Byrnes sander, there are many more angle cuts in our future. 
 

The planing is a great approach, I just don’t have enough experience in using one, I’d take out half a bulkhead😳🤣

[FrankWouts]

Hi Kurt,
Any updates?

I like your solution with the tied down batten to line up the gun port framing with the deck sheer!
Frank.

[FrankWouts]

Hi Kurt,
Any updates?

Cheers!
Frank.