HM Schooner Ballahoo by GGibson - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64

[GGibson]

Well, I have continued moving forward on this version of the Ballahoo, despite the poor 2nd planking.  Sanding, filling and painting have hidden a decent share of the booboo's.  In addition to sanding and filling the hull multiple times, I also completed the bulwark inner planking using walnut strips and sanded the inner planking to a smooth finish, as well.

 

 

Once satisfied with the sanding, I painted the hull exterior and the inner planking.  I put six coats of black paint on the exterior.  I started with a coat of the dull black Admiralty Paint that I ordered with the Ballahoo kit, but wasn't really happy with the way it was going on, so I changed to the Vallejo black paint (in a 70/30 mixture with their Vallejo Medium Thinner)) and was happier with the finish.  I used an Arteza Paint Yellow Ochre color for above the main wale, and a Windsor & Newton Red Ochre color for the inner bulwark... again multiple coats.  

 

        

 

I then measured and drew a waterline mark and, using the tamiya tape, masked and painted below the waterline.  I used the Admiralty Matt White paint that came with the kit.  Not sure if it meets the 'white stuff' criteria... it may be a little brighter than what it would be in reality, but seems to look good, so we'll stick with it.  I thought about dropping a bit of the yellow ochre in the mix, but was concerned about a consistent coverage, so opted for the Matt White by itself.

 

 

        

 

In retrospect, I'm thinking it would have probably been easier to paint the yellow above the wale and the white below the waterline if I hadn't given the entire exterior hull multiple coats of the black.  If I knew I was going to be painting those sections those colors, the respective paints would have certainly covered better than they did having to go over the black that I had laid down previously.  Will remember that in future builds and paint sessions.

 

If you get up close to the ship, yes, you can see some of the imperfections, but... it's my 3rd build, and I am getting better in certain areas and will continue to improve in my planking skills on my 4th build, and my 5th build, and... well, you get the idea.

 

Will do a few more touch-ups on the hull and bulwark painting as I continue on, but it's now on to the deck planking and the bulwark capping rail.  Have been looking a lot at past builds, such as jim_smits and egkb, for guidance and inspiration.  Thanks to all for suggestions and encouragement. 

 

Gregg

Edited April 7, 2022 by GGibson

[GGibson]

I am waiting on some additional wood strips to begin work on the deck planking.  I'm also waiting on some new grating pieces, as several of the "teeth" on the ones included in the kit were broken.  While I am waiting on those to be delivered this week, I began working on the carronades and on the rudder.

 

   

 

Read some other build logs on how they prepared their carronades.  Some were quite detailed, but I opted to keep mine fairly basic.  Once I get the deck planking done, though, and am ready to set these on the deck, I may choose to get a bit more detailed in how they are secured to the bulwark.  As you can see in the 2nd picture above, though, you will see that I needed to make the back hole where the carronade sits on the base slightly larger in order for each to fit properly.

 

Also worked on the rudder.  Determined where the eyelets needed to be placed on the rudder post, created the hinge pegs using brass wire, few drops of CA glue here and there, and after a bit of adjustments and manipulation, the rudder slid into the hinges.  The picture makes it look like there is a fair distance between the rudder and the rudder post, but the distance isn't that great.

 

     

 

Should be receiving the deck planking shipment this week, and will begin on the margin planking, nibbing, etc. that others have shown so well in their build logs.  Oh, and build the gratings, as well.

 

Appreciate your reads and comments for improvements.

 

Gregg

[GGibson]

Several of the grating pieces had "teeth" missing from the shipment, and I wasn't sure if I had enough to make the three grates needed.  So, while I had a bit of a break before tackling the deck planking, I decided to work on the gratings, in case I needed to order replacements.  As it turns out, though, I had enough and, although there were a few visible gaps due to missing teeth, I was able to keep them on the same side so they shouldn't be visible in placement on the completed deck.  These were, though, a bit harder to make up than I thought they'd be.  But, I think they came out ok.  I need to work a bit more on rounding the corners a touch more before placement, but we'll work on that at the time.  I even notice in this picture the lower right one needs some more sanding!  

 

        

 

Now to the deck planking!  I have been looking over and over again at some of the completed build logs to better understand how to tackle this project, and the ones I've reviewed have been tremendous help.  Hopefully, I can do as well on this one.  

 

Perhaps not totally realistic, but made some cross plank pieces at both stern and bow for the main deck planking to butt up to.  Knew that the deck planking was going to begin at the center line and work outwards, so decided to measure, place and secure the planks on either side of the center line.  These are now glued in place and I will work outward.  Still haven't settled on how to complete the margin planking.  I've been practicing on different lengths and widths to see how they'll best fit and look, and have the inner deck planking fit, as well.  A lot of nibbling practice!  And, as you can see from the center planks, I am replicating the caulking, too, with a black sharpie.  

 

 

If anyone sees anything I am doing wrong, or may lead to issues down the road, please speak up!  Appreciate the comments and criticism.

 

Gregg

 

[bobandlucy]

The grates look good, Gregg!

[GGibson]

Thanks, Bob! I've been following your Harriet Lane build, as well.  Doing awesome!

[GGibson]

Worked more today on the margin planking, and think I landed on the planks I am going to work with.  Started with some 10mm wide strips, and cut, shaped and sanded them down to 6mm widths so they ran pretty tightly along the edge of the inner bulwarks.  On the more severe curve at the bow, I am leaving the "working planks" at 10mm widths in order to give room for the nibbing.

 

As you can probably tell, I have not glued any of this margin planking down yet.  My intent is to dry-fit as much of the deck planks as I can, determining where I need to trim and nib to make it fit right and look right.  Other than the two center planks that I previously discussed that are too short due to the various breaks down the center, I intend to employ a four-butt shift system on the remaining deck planks.  We'll see how everything goes!

 

                        

 

Appreciate the comments, suggestions and criticism.  Thanks...

 

Gregg

 

[GGibson]

I have completed the starboard side of the deck planking.  My original intent was to dry-fit everything before I glued planks to the false decking, but as I began to cut, fit and place deck strips, and work on how I was going to do the nibbing along the margin planks, it was difficult to keep everything in place as I measured, etc., so I decided to secure the planks, from bow to stern, working from the inside out, which allowed for a bit better placement.  

 

                    

               

                

 

I used 4mm wide strips from the centerline out and used 10mm wide strips for the three margin planks, cutting, nibbing, shaping and trimming them to proper widths where necessary to fit.  In looking at other build logs, this appears to be pretty consistent and in line with what others did, so I feel ok with how it came out.

 

Overall, I am satisfied with how this side of the deck planking came out.  I made mirror duplicates of the three completed margin plank shapes, so hopefully the port side deck planking will go well, if not even a bit better.

 

As always, appreciate the comments, recommendations for improvement and criticisms. I am definitely learning a ton of modeling knowledge in this 3rd build.

 

Gregg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 24, 2022 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Also, forgot to mention yesterday the success I am having in gluing the deck planks to the false deck, with hardly any mess or cleanup.  I am sure this has been discussed in other MSW forums, which is where I probably picked it up.

 

In order to avoid having to constantly clean decent paint brushes with glue, I purchased a bag of small inexpensive "disposable" brushes... only about 6" long, and as I recall less than $1.00/bag of 25.  I place a bit of my Titebond on a piece of wax paper used as a palette, and brush on a nice thin layer of glue for the plank I am securing.  Cleanup is a breeze.

 

 

Progressing well on the port side deck planking.  Appreciate the comments and criticisms. 

 

It's a cool yet sunny Sunday in Kansas City, so heading outside this afternoon for some yard work.   Thanks...

 

Gregg

[egkb]

Hi Gregg .. Moving along nicely here .. Take your time (maybe not as long as I did though LOL) and enjoy Ballahoo..

 

All The Very Best From Sunny (For a change) Arklow

 

Eamonn

[GGibson]

A brief update - Finished with the deck planking! I believe the port side (the 2nd side I worked on) came out much better in regard to the margin planking width, the nibbing, etc. than starboard.  Learned a lot in that process!  After completing the planking, I sanded with 240 grit, then 320 grit, to a nice smooth texture.  Place four (4) coats of satin varnish on the planks and they came out looking very nice.  Moving on...!

 

Almost had a severe casualty as I was placing the bulwark capping rail.  First of al, I decided to paint the rail prior to placement, as I figured it would be much less trouble than afterwards with taping, etc.  As I was gluing the starboard-side rail on up towards the bow, my finger slipped and... snap... the rail broke.  Crap!  Long story short (maybe too late for that), it was a fairly "clean" break and I was able to glue back together (sounds like Humpty Dumpty now, huh?).  Looks pretty well sitting on top of the bulwark.  I have some concerns about fitting the timberheads in the small spots provided on the rail, but both Eammon and jim_smits assured me from their past builds that, with some work, they can fit securely.

 

Thought I would work on the companionway next.  Wasn't sure quite how to approach building a secure box with such small pieces.  I thought I would use my mini-miter box as a guide to assist me in making sure the sides were at 90 degrees to the top.  Worked out well, actually.  I also placed a small piece of square walnut at each corner for stability.  It seemed to work out well.  I think the one picture shows what seems to be an excess amount of glue.  When I pushed the piece of walnut into the corner, it squeezed a bit of the excess out.  Since it's all underneath, no harm, but it did dry fine.

 

           

 

I decided to paint the companionway in a similar color scheme as the bulwark inner planking and the top capping rail.  Was even fairly successful in adding handles, knobs and hinges.  Once painted and all of the hardware was attached, I gave it a few coats of satin finish, as well.  Pleased with the way that came out.

 

 

So, here is how the Ballahoo is sitting now...

 

 

I secured the gratings in their proper locations and glued the two (2) mast bases at their points.  Although I set the companionway in its spot for this photo op, I have not yet secured it, as I thought I would be easier to work on some other deck fittings without it in the way.  Same with the carronades, which I worked on a week or so ago, but will wait for placement.

 

On to the next challenge, which will include the channels, deadeyes and strops.  Oh boy...  As always, appreciate all the likes, comments, criticisms and recommendations for improvement.  Happy weekend to all!  It's already going to be May! 

 

Gregg 

Edited April 30, 2022 by GGibson

[GGibson]

A quick update on some small yet necessary stuff I finished.  Worked on the pump assemblies.  I recall in jim_smits' Ballahoo build log, he called this part "a bit of a faff".  Admittedly, I had never heard that term before, so had to look it up. Looks like it is more of a Brit term for something that is awkward or time-consuming.  Can't argue with that, Jim!  Indeed, these pump assemblies were both.  Think they came out ok, though.  The picture has them shown in place, but I have not secured them as, like the companionway, I would most assuredly hit them with something and damage or break.  So, they are being set aside until towards the completion.  Also, took the time now to drill the holes and place the deck eyelets around the mast holes and along the stern.  Thinking there are more eyelets to place, but I'll come across those as I move forward. 

 

Also, placed the timberheads in their spots.  Really didn't see how they were going to fit well in the holes provided on the capping rails.  But, thanks to both egkb and jim_smits, they assured me that, after a bit of sanding and tapering, the timberheads would come close.  Yep, after all that, and a touch of CA, they feel pretty secure.  And, yes, that is a piece of paper I have taped to the deck temporarily where the companionway will sit.  Sure as heck, I would drop something down the hole.  So, this will help if I get clumsy  

 

        

 

OK, I've put it off long enough.  Time to work on the channels, deadeyes and strops.  A bit unsure how I will do on them, but I will trudge forward... slowly.  Actually, I am waiting on some more brass wire to be delivered the first of this week, which I will use instead of the kit-supplied strops.  Lots of model shipbuilding education in my future!

 

Appreciate the likes, comments, advice and criticisms.  Enjoy your week!  It's almost tomato planting time in Kansas! 

 

Gregg

Edited May 2, 2022 by GGibson

[georgeband]

Gregg,

Neat work with the decking and the margin planks which will provide a good background for all the other bits on the deck later. 

One comment about the pumps. These would go above the deepest part of the hold which is between the larger grating and the rear mast. The Admiralty drawings clearly put them there and I think that Caldercraft moved them away from a cramped piece of deck for convenience. If you place them between the two gratings then there will be a lot of water sloshing around in the hold. The kit takes a lot of short cuts with accuracy and the choice is yours: build something which you are pleased with and which looks good to a typical person who admires your work, or historical accuracy to please a pedant.

 

George

[GGibson]

Thanks for the likes, and I appreciate the comment, George, regarding the pump locations.  I can certainly understand now that, with their present location, the holds would take on quite a bit of water.  As I have already drilled the 1mm holes in the deck for the pump placements, I will leave them here for the casual admirer, and will have to ask the purists for a pass on this one.  Another lesson learned, however!  Review as many of the actual documents, drawings and pictures as I can on these ships, and not just "settle" on the manufacturer's rendering.

 

Gregg

[Cathead]

I just stumbled across this after recalling your intro post from a while back. You're doing well so far, learning curve and all. Just had to pop up and say well done to another local/regional builder, there aren't that many of us!

[Dr PR]

Gregg,

 

Your build is coming along nicely.

 

Like George said, don't worry about the pump location. I don't recall the thread now, but in another build by a pretty experienced modeller a lengthy discussion ensued over the location of pumps - whether they should be farther aft or midships. What appeared to be original plans seemed to show them midships, even though this point was about a foot above the low point of the bilges. It was an interesting, but inconclusive discussion. For a ship pitching in rolling seas just about every point of the bilges is the lowest point at some time. But in port some water will accumulate at the lowest point.

 

So chalk this one up as a learning experience. I have had a lot of learning experiences in my schooner model build, and there will be more to come!

[GGibson]

Thanks again to those who occasionally peek in and give me likes and constructive experienced comments.  Much appreciated!

 

Been on and off a bit working in the shipyard, as I had cataract surgery in late April, have had to wear some funky UV glasses practically the whole month of May, and finally getting back to where I can see 1mm and smaller pieces clearly with BOTH eyes! Ha!

 

Anyways, I did work through completing the channels, deadeyes and strops on both sides of the ship.  This was definitely a challenge for me. Had wanted to make the strops from 0.5mm wire, but learned I am NOT good at soldering, so went back to the kit-supplied strops.  Although I struggled with getting them all done, I was able to get the channels secured.  Port side channels did not come out as well, so I guess we now know what side will be facing OUT when it gets placed on the mantle.

 

Also placed a bunch of eyepins and cleats in the appropriate locations around the ship.  For some reason, I seem to have run out of eyepins or have misplaced them.  If I don't find them before ready to place eyepins on the masts, bowspirit, etc., I'll make some out of 0.5mm wire.

 

OK, so now I have a question or two and need some clarification from the experts.  And, as we usually say, this is a silly question, but here goes... 

 

 

The plans state that the aft mast is 297mm in length, and the fore mast is 271mm in length.  Do those lengths include the 20-23mm that is inserted into the respective holes in the deck? Or are those the lengths that should be "exposed" after the masts are inserted and secured?  According to the plans shown in the picture above, the cleats at the base of each mast appear to be about 44mm from the bottom.  Again, is that 44mm from the deck once the masts are fitted in their locations?

 

Sorry  again for the silly questions.  I'm off to do more planing and shaping!

 

Gregg 

 

[BenD]

17 minutes ago, GGibson said:

The plans state that the aft mast is 297mm in length, and the fore mast is 271mm in length.  Do those lengths include the 20-23mm that is inserted into the respective holes in the deck? Or are those the lengths that should be "exposed" after the masts are inserted and secured?  According to the plans shown in the picture above, the cleats at the base of each mast appear to be about 44mm from the bottom.  Again, is that 44mm from the deck once the masts are fitted in their locations?

I'm fairly sure the plans are showing the full length. The cleats would be far to high otherwise, The crew would be around 26-28mm in height to scale, they couldn't reach 44mm to belay. 

 

I've been building a Caldercraft kit and had wondered this myself when going over the mast and yard lengths. You can check against the other rigging plans in your kit and measure the mast on them, you should get the definitive answer there.

[GGibson]

Ahhhh, didn't even think about comparing it to the height of the crew and their ability to belay the ropes on the mast!  Duh!  Thanks, Dan!  Makes perfect sense.

 

And, by the way, I love Ropes of Scale and the quality products!  They are getting used on this Ballahoo!

 

Gregg 

[Dr PR]

Gregg,

 

I have had the same problem trying to decipher what different authors and plans mean by "mast length." Most authors just assume you can read their minds!

 

I have encountered four different "mast lengths" in references on mast construction. This drawing shows what the terms "measured length," "hounded length," "deck to top" and "deck to hounds" mean.

 

 

 

Measured length and hounded length are the two most commonly used terms for "mast length," although most authors just say "mast length" without actually saying which actual meaning they are using. The same ambiguity often applies to the "length" of the ship, with the three measurements shown in the drawing being used for  the length of the ship.

 

I can't see the tops of the masts in the image you posted, but I suspect the "measured length" is what they are talking about. It is the dowel length, and that has to include the measured length from the heel to the cap.

Edited June 6, 2022 by Dr PR

[allanyed]

On 4/17/2022 at 10:58 AM, bobandlucy said:

The grates look good, Gregg!

I really hope you don't mind but I disagree with Bob.   I realize the average viewer would not notice or care. and some may call this nitpicking so please take it for what it's worth.   I realize it is too late for this project, but something that you may find to be of interest for future builds. The gratings never have open sides, and the battens run fore and aft, not athwartships.  Also, the head ledges rest on the coamings not the other way around. 

 

Picture and 1000 words etc. below.  

 

[GGibson]

Thanks for your input, Phil!  Interesting to learn more terms as I progress.  And, yes, it would be the "measured length" that I was referring to. according to the drawing.

 

Thanks for the great grate discussion, allanyed.  Definitely not nitpicking, but provides awesome factual info for how future builds should look.  As I think I mentioned in that post, my supply of grates without some missing teeth was a bit limited, so worked with what I had.  I thought about requesting/ordering more grate pieces, but decided to use what I had.  And, I had no idea about how the coamings and head ledges are placed.  Appreciate the education!

[allanyed]

Gregg,

I am glad  to be of at least a little help.   I am happy to receive information/help/constructive criticism but not everyone is, thus my hesitancy. 

Allan  

[GGibson]

On 6/5/2022 at 10:01 PM, BenD said:

I'm fairly sure the plans are showing the full length. The cleats would be far to high otherwise, The crew would be around 26-28mm in height to scale, they couldn't reach 44mm to belay. 

 

I've been building a Caldercraft kit and had wondered this myself when going over the mast and yard lengths. You can check against the other rigging plans in your kit and measure the mast on them, you should get the definitive answer there.

Not sure what possessed me to type "Dan"...  Thanks, Ben!

 

Sorry!

Gregg

Edited June 7, 2022 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Haven't been working in the shipyard too much this summer.  Had a couple medical things I had to address, as well as three weeks of grandkids visiting, so work on the Ballahoo has been minimal.  Back at it a bit, though, now, and am to the point of working on the shrouds and ratlines.

 

      

 

Not all my deadeyes came out perfectly even when I tied the lanyards on them.  But, for a first attempt, I'll take how they came out.  Now on to securing the ratlines on the shrouds.  

 

 

As I have seen on some other build logs, I am using a note card to assist with the spacing and alignment for the ratlines.  Simulating an approximate 14" spacing between ratlines and adjusting to scale, I drew lines at 6mm distances, and will use this as a guide.  Guess this is about the best way to do it.  Will take a while to do all of them, though!  

[GGibson]

Started on the ratlines.  Actually, the clove hitches are easier than I thought they'd be.  Pretty monotonous, though! And I've only just begun...  Whew!

 

 

Edited September 24, 2022 by GGibson

[georgeband]

Gregg,

 

I actually enjoy tying ratlines and it depends on getting into a rhythm with moving the free end of the thread. It becomes a sort of meditation - Zen and the art of tying knots. 

 

Don't forget to seal the knots after you have blackened the threads and before you trim the ends off. There have been many discussions about what to use, or not, on the knots and the consensus seems to be thinned PVA is best, or possibly varnish. CA superglue seems to get a bad press but I have used it successfully. 

 

If tying the ratlines is an unwelcome chore you can leave them off the shrouds for the main mast. Several drawings show that there were no ratlines there so you can choose what you prefer. 

 

George

 

[GGibson]

Appreciate the input, George.  Yes, I am hitting each of the ratline knots with diluted PVA as I am progressing.  One of the other recently completed Ballahoo builds used the natural thread for ratlines as a bit of a contrast, and I thought it looked nice, so doing that here, as well.  I'll do the ratlines for both masts.  Like you said, you get into a bit of a rhythm.  Thanks for the feedback!

[GGibson]

Completed the ratlines on all four sets of shrouds... not as bad as I thought it was going to be, but definitely monotonous. Got into a decent rhythm/routine. A couple came out a bit "slacky", but all-in-all I'm ok.  Also completed the jib stay from the foremast to the end of the bowspirit and back to the boat.  Will finish the rope coil and hang on one of the timberheads in a few days. 

 

        

 

Now on to the two sets of backstays.  

 

 

[GGibson]

Got a few more tasks accomplished... Firstly, I completed the two sets of backstays on each mast.  Hadn't found a tremendously good purpose yet for the "four-hands helper" I acquired a few months back, but for holding the four backstay lines simultaneously while I secured each to their respective positions on the masts proved quite helpful!

 

 

Have watched quite a few YouTube videos on how to make the rope hanks, and several previous Ballyhoo build logs had really good advice on their preparation.  Tried making them using both the "bunch of nails in an oval shape" technique and the simple two-nail approach, and not sure if either of them were perfect for me.  I just need some more practice.  Also prepared a flat rope coil for the line coming from the front of the bowspirit, similar to the technique used in a video I watched by Olha Batchvarov (who is awesome in all of her shipbuilding videos). 

 

         

 

Finally, ran the line from the top of the aft mast to the top of the fore mast, through a block and down to a cleat.  I have not belayed it to a cleat yet, though, as I want to confirm what other running rigging lines will be coming down the same fore mast so they don't all cross.

 

           

 

It's now on to the booms and the running rigging.  Getting closer to the end! 

[bobandlucy]

Wow, Gregg, you have come so far in developing your skills in a short time!

 

b