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Posted

 

I can not believe it.

 

Everything seems in English at last.

 

I look forward to honest opinions on the bottle.

 

In one image you can see what looks like half a Cutter hull in place, effectively between

the tip of the bowsprit and the glass there is a millimeter.

 

Oh yeah...

Posted

I get the text and the mess with the images...

 

And now that I tell you how I make the sea of a bottle with depth and a Cutter that is about to end... let's see how I made the one with the Vietnamese junk, two compilations have been mixed up... sorry.

 

I want to think that it is heat but it seems to me that it is something more serious... We'll leave the diorama for later...I get the text and the mess with the images... And now that I tell you how I make the sea of a bottle with depth and a Cutter that is about to end... let's see how I made the one with the Vietnamese junk, two compilations have been mixed up... sorry.

 

I want to think that it is heat but it seems to me that it is something more serious...

 

We,ll leave the diorama for later.

 

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There is no evil that does not come for good...so says a saying of ours. I didn't have the process of the sea of the reed recorded but now you know it.

 

There are only two variants, as it goes directly to the glass, everything is tinted and as the bottle is so tight I had to make a bevel with yellow plasticine so that the sea that encompasses the ship is level, without an upward curve.

 

The first thing is to make a paper template, the second, to transfer that template to a plastic mold with the measures already applied of what it has to occupy

 

Observe in the images how I have made the curved area and the bevel of yellow plasticine. So that the plasticine does not mix with the silicone thin layer of undiluted PVA.

 

Remember that when the hull is placed or sunk in the silicone, it is wrapped in kitchen plastic and the board at the bottom of the reed is on the outside. Here it leads to the rudder given its size.43a.thumb.jpg.765bbb36206f633d090db04c6375b835.jpg

 

Now is the time to place the lower perimeter planking, it no longer bothers to model the sea.

 

 

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Something that I don't know if I'll comment on and it takes less time to say or repeat it than to look for it...in a nod to Asian modellers I've decided to put the bow facing the base of the bottle. It can be seen that the bow looks at the shape of a smooth internal curve and the stern at the mouth.

 

I'm going to throw all this to see if it's okay.

 

And continúe whit the diorama.

 

 

Posted

 

 

Hi:

I promised you the diorama in the next installment and you will have the diorama... How has nobody told me about the ship change?

 

The junk has two details left to finish it and the Cutter much more.

 

I always make the hull and accessories if there is time due to the drying times and then the sea before putting elements that make it difficult to insert them.

 

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The first thing to choose is a colorful landscape of the Bay, this image is typical.

 

 

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With acrylic paint and carved and painted polystyrene, we tried to get closer to that landscape.

 

the outline of the paper template that I always use can be seen in pencil.

 

 

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I make a volumetric carving very worked and more attractive.

 

Bad business I realize that it takes up too much space, it almost touches the hull.

 

Eliminate the depth effect I have to use yes or yes a flatter and more childish one.

 

 

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This fits perfectly and leaves more distance.

 

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We cut out the landscape from the canvas.

 

Still more come out of that canvas.

 

 

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The canvas is glued well to the glass and it is adapted and smoothed with a piece of wire xon a slat at the end wrapped in cloth.

 

The canvas rolls in easily.

 

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We present the set to assess its effect.

 

Passed.

 

 

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We stick the sea in its place with some scattered silicone globs.

 

Where the board goes I always put a little cord.

 

It fits well by pressing the silicone to the glass with a thick wire that ends in a circle and it is observed that the leveling of the sea is acceptable.

 

 

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We put a few drops of PVA on the canvas, and we place it on it, as in the sea we have made the mold with plastic kitchen paper from the parts of the mountain, it is easy.

 

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and so all the parts, until finished.

 

It can be done better and with time it will be done... I handle new ideas.

 

But easier I don't think.

 

Greetings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hi:

 

Today's delivery, external rigging and finding the easiest method to do it once we have the ship within the moment I have several options.

 

The one that is in the lead is to make cyanoacrylate needles with the thread and with a lot of patience, pulse and sight, pass them through the perforated holes, it can be done.

 

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There is not much to explain, we assemble the lines with the help of a thread guide for needles, when disassembling we will have the precaution of marking each one which is...

 

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All roof elements must now be mounted.

 

We have already verified that none interfere with the candle

 

Two things...although the separation of the hull is very visible, that's because the holes in which the wooden cores go are slightly enlarged, so that once inside I don't have a problem with the assembly and the glu

 

If we put pressure between both parts they are leveled and equalized with a few taps on the deck, the slat that is in the sea also help

 

Second, dammit, a section of the sterncastle has come loose and I can't find it...redo i

 

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External pre-assembly with the help of the thread guide gave me an idea.

 

I took a skewer and disassemble a raisin and stick this on the skewer.

 

I put half a helmet in the bottle and I realized that there were impossible working angles... well, nothing, the solution is easy, cut the tip of the skewer and fix it with a wire to the rest of the bocheta to be able to give the angle that you want...that's what I was when I saw an electrical cable...integrated grommets that enter with the helmet.

 

Simple and successful.

 

Greatings.

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Posted (edited)

Thank you very much for your kind comment, the truth is that I really enjoy doing all this and solving the difficulties that each model presents.

 

I know I still have to improve a lot... that hull I have to do later with frames and its decking, table At table, it's not a threat, it's a promise.

 

To the others who have left a reaction also thank you.

 

Makes this work make sense.

 

Greetings.

Edited by Alva004
Posted

Good evening:

I'm starting tomorrow my vacation, so I'm going to try to finish this... so as not to make it too long, after vacation I have a hard time going back to my routine until it's winter...

 

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We already have the first half inside...

 

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The other, there was only one problem in this section, it didn't go in with the rudder, so water loosen the PVA remove it and once inside put it back.

 

The two halves are glued, I just put a drop of PVA on the stems that enter the holes and assemble them, then leaning on their place in the sea, I level both halves and so the place where it is divided is not noticeable.

 

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This strut helps to level and also to put pressure between the hull and the wooden strip to which it is attached, it makes this union stronger, I wait until the next day to remove it.

 

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Well the internal measurements have been exact there is no more than a millimeter of separation between the bow of the ship and the glass, I remind you that this goes like the Asian school the bow looks towards the bottom of the bottle.

With a skewer and a wire I pull the provisional guide and it works, in the image it has already passed, it hangs from the loop..

With another skewer and a wire ending in a curved hook I carefully remove the line.

 

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Each thread identified when entering and leaving, to later facilitate tension and position.899951444_73pasadosloscuatrohilos.thumb.jpg.d41101edfd71d1ead8e12f3a3d91e347.jpg

 

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All threads passed, tightened and glued.

 

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Disaster, I don't know what happened, I went very carefully to cut and I cut the first one, always with the edge of the blade towards the glass, I am going to change position to change the blade and a thread is cut... I don't understand ...the edge faces the glass, my first attempt to drop glue and join the cut, it doesn't work, I support the sail with a skewer and its wire because the tensions have taken the mast to the other side and I look for the problem.

 

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Finding out, I cut the razor blade with scissors, the cut side opposite the edge turns out to be as sharp as the edge... solution we cover it with adhesive paper so it doesn't cut.

Works

 

This only happens to piglets (a way of calling newbie here).

 

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Good thing I used PVA and the cut was below the bead that is meant to be a pulley.

 

Water, I drain the cut part of the knot, I make another pass-thread needle, insert a new thread and tie a knot, water in the anchor stick, take out the cut thread, another needle and pass the thread that I have already tied to the pulley, cut off any excess, I tense everything again and hit again...whew, what a scare.

 

Seguimos...

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Y ya tenemos la primera...

 

 

 

Vamos con la segunda.

 

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Forgive the orientation of the photos, the second candle is made exactly the same as the first.

 

But without problems of any kind, the thread guides are passed, the threads are tightened, they are glued, dried and leftovers are cut.

 

We check from above the correct alignment of the sails.

 

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Third and last.

 

Still something doesn't convince me.

 

The most observant will see it in the finished gallery.

 

Greetings to all and sorry for running so much at the end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Alva004
Posted (edited)

Thanks Glen, you have been overly generous with the note, this was my fifth ship I think, sixth at most, but I think the sixth was the brigamter  Leon.

 

You have been overly generous with the note, this was my fifth ship I think, sixth at most, but I think the sixth was the brig Leon.

 

It is the same, I think that a good, approaching remarkable is a rating more adjusted to reality.

 

All the best.

 

And thanks for being there.

Edited by Alva004
Posted

Glen you are very kind, it is true that I put a lot of effort and desire.

 

That in the end shows.

 

Thank you also for being here.

 

On my return I hope to see yours finished.

 

Have you seen the Brigantine Leon in a Dimple bottle in the gallery?

 

Don't forget to see her.

 

All the best.

Posted

Absolutely stunning, Alva.   Thanks for sharing how you built it.   The Leon looks great also.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

  • 9 months later...

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