Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 2/4/2023 at 11:11 PM, Capella said:

New term for me!

 

What is it and why do you think you need it?

Hi Capella,

 

Not sure if you've seen this very informative document:

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf

I would highly recommend it.  I must admit I haven't been able to practice all of it yet but it's my plan to do so on my next build.

 

Chimp

Current Build: ....

 

Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre,   HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft

Posted
3 hours ago, The Gimps Chimp said:

Hi Capella,

 

Not sure if you've seen this very informative document:

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf

I would highly recommend it.  I must admit I haven't been able to practice all of it yet but it's my plan to do so on my next build.

 

Chimp

I have not. Thanks for the link, Chimp!

First build: US Ranger - Corel

 

Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

All right, I made a mistake. Not a modelling mistake tought.

 

I went to one of my relatives, and brought the hull to show them the processus of ship building and how far I was. The thing is, I forgot it there. The good news is, I will go to this person's house again in about 2-3 weeks and I will be able to bring it back to the shipyard. 

 

In the meantime, I will be doing the several launches. Here is where I'm at for the (23 foot?) one. I don't think I will be painting it white if I do a good enought job on the hull.

16766718900246597129060026861814.jpg

Edited by Patrick B
Posted

Oh no!

 

By the sound of it, your relatives must be far enough away that it's not just a matter of a quick drive over there to get it!

 

I built all of the small boats while I was waiting for some modeling supplies to arrive. I hadn't started planking the ship's hull yet so I used the process building them as practice for the ship.

 

The first launch that I built was the one that is painted in the plans and I was happy to paint that hull! 😉

First build: US Ranger - Corel

 

Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

That looks great.  HMS Beagle was my first build and I built the small boats before planking the ship.  I viewed it as practice for the ship and it showed.  You should be really happy with how this looks.  I really love the sycamore trim added to cover the plywood edge.  

Completed Build:   HMS Beagle - Occre

Current Builds:       Frigate Diana - Occre  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/

Santisima Trinidad - Occre - Cross Section https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37130-santisima-trinidad-by-rossr-occre-190-cross-section/

On the Shelf:           NRG Half Hull, the US Brig Syren - Model Shipways and USF Essex - Model Shipways

Posted (edited)

Hi, in the construction of one of the deck fittings, I noticed something.

 

One pair of the hinges has holes in it rather than "nails". Both are named J7. Anyone has an idea on how I should display them? 

One pair per door or alternate them?

16777884560453023802166124358055.jpg

Edited by Patrick B
Posted (edited)

Hi Patrick

The launch design is interesting.   I think there may be a mistake in the kit as it shows three thwarts double banked and two thwarts with no oarlocks for any rowers at all.  Based on contemporary plans a 23 foot launch typically had six thwarts and was usually single banked for six rowers.  It may be too late for your boat, but for the future you might want to check out the build logs on the 23 foot launches here at MSW as well as plans at RMG Collections and on the Wiki Commons site.  The following happen to be for the 23 foot launch found on the Bounty but they are appropriate for a wide range of years and are accurate. 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/

and https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33614-bounty-launch-by-imustbecrazy-116-small/

There are scantlings available for a wide range of boat types sizes available if that would be of interest to you for your other boats.

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

Those hinges are bizarre. And you're sure they're the only J7 parts provided? And are they all meant to be mounted to the one fitting you show there? Also, based on the shadows, the set with holes looks thicker than the set without. Are they actually different?

Posted
2 hours ago, Cathead said:

Those hinges are bizarre. And you're sure they're the only J7 parts provided? And are they all meant to be mounted to the one fitting you show there? Also, based on the shadows, the set with holes looks thicker than the set without. Are they actually different?

Yes, the thickness is different. The one with holes is a bit thicker than the other pair. It's color is different too, being a bit darker. They are the only use of the J7 parts. The other hinges have different sizes and names. 

 

I decided to put one pair for each hatches. Otherwise looked odd.

16778617062426806991206928763409.jpg

Posted
5 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Patrick

The launch design is interesting.   I think there may be a mistake in the kit as it shows three thwarts double banked and two thwarts with no oarlocks for any rowers at all.  Based on contemporary plans a 23 foot launch typically had six thwarts and was usually single banked for six rowers.  It may be too late for your boat, but for the future you might want to check out the build logs on the 23 foot launches here at MSW as well as plans at RMG Collections and on the Wiki Commons site.  The following happen to be for the 23 foot launch found on the Bounty but they are appropriate for a wide range of years and are accurate. 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/

and https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33614-bounty-launch-by-imustbecrazy-116-small/

There are scantlings available for a wide range of boat types sizes available if that would be of interest to you for your other boats.

Allan

You are right.

But I still like the appearance of the 1-3-1 thwart pattern. This being my first ship, I incourage you to inform me about these interesting tricks the old sailors know. Keep in mind that I might change some other things afterwards if not too much added work is needed. I am very interested in those small tweaks that coulds make it more realistic.

Posted (edited)

 

On 3/3/2023 at 12:22 PM, Patrick B said:

I am very interested in those small tweaks that could make it more realistic.

Hi Patrick.

Your desire for accuracy is to be commended.   Your neatly done construction is also to be commended.  The learning part of our hobby never ends which is a great thing for all of us.   I realize that you are limited to what you received in the way of parts unless you want to change things on your own, aka, "kit bashing."  If not for this particular boat, for future projects, look at the scantlings for any given boat or ship for that matter.  If you look at the scantlings for this case, a 23 foot launch circa early 19th century, you will see why corrections are probably not  possible at this point.  Two examples are the frames and cap rail.  At your scale the frames on this size boat should have a sided and moulded dimension of about 0.75mm (1.75"X1.75" full scale) at the top of the frames and there should be about 16 to 18 of them.   Those in the photos appear to be sided and moulded about 3mm which would be about 7" or 400% oversized. 

 

These boats did not have a cap rail per se.  If you look at the contemporary drawings from RMG Collections below it may help understand. In any case the full width with the upper most plank should be about 3mm not including the chock where as your materials give you something around 5 mm.  

 

Thank you for sharing your build.


Allan

Crosssections.PNG.3aa1dee2d149a00b99c29af5e0e0c8ea.PNG

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted
On 3/3/2023 at 12:22 PM, Patrick B said:

I still like the appearance of the 1-3-1 thwart pattern

It's a hobby and it's your build so you should do anything that makes you happy 😀.    My only question with  this arrangement is where do the rowers sit?  The space between thwarts was typically 22 to 23 inches.   For your center thwarts there is only about 15 inches so no room for a rower to do his job.  Also note the distance between the aft edge of the thwart and then center line of the thole. Below I superimposed a contemporary plan layout of a 23 foot launch on your model as a picture and a 1000 words, &c.   

Allan

Drawing9.PNG.7361cb013b06082a2f7de7844782d59b.PNG

 

 

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Planking update

 

The first side is finished planking. I am very happy with the result, as no wood filler was needed whatsoever, and little to no sanding was done too. Due to the carefull attention in the planking process, no "steps" where created.

 

I leaved the nails in, contrarly to the popular behavior, as this didn't affect the sanding process at all. This choice was made because of the fact that I posses a nail pusher. Without it, I would have certainly took the nails off.

 

16812616000898466173545312935648.jpg

 

16812618676985808701337497199666.jpg

 

16812619134945435877447896088158.jpg

 

I leaved the nails in, contrarly to the popular behavior, as this didn't affect the sanding process at all. This choice was made because of the fact that I posses a nail pusher. Without it, I would have certainly took the nails off.

 

16812619997667908125938610659903.jpg

Edited by Patrick B
Posted

Your planking looks great.  

Completed Build:   HMS Beagle - Occre

Current Builds:       Frigate Diana - Occre  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/

Santisima Trinidad - Occre - Cross Section https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37130-santisima-trinidad-by-rossr-occre-190-cross-section/

On the Shelf:           NRG Half Hull, the US Brig Syren - Model Shipways and USF Essex - Model Shipways

Posted

What kind of glue will you use for the second layer?   

Completed Build:   HMS Beagle - Occre

Current Builds:       Frigate Diana - Occre  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/

Santisima Trinidad - Occre - Cross Section https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37130-santisima-trinidad-by-rossr-occre-190-cross-section/

On the Shelf:           NRG Half Hull, the US Brig Syren - Model Shipways and USF Essex - Model Shipways

Posted

Looks GREAT, @Patrick B

 

Mine will definitely need plenty of filling and sanding when I'm done with the first layer.

 

I saw the benefits of a pin/nail pusher early on, so I ordered one from Micro-Mark, but it's been on backorder for nearly two months now 😕

 

Your first layer experience is definitely what I (and many others) strive for!

First build: US Ranger - Corel

 

Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre

Posted
On 4/12/2023 at 7:51 PM, RossR said:

What kind of glue will you use for the second layer?   

Hi RossR :

Cyanocrylate, the same stuff I used to glue the ends of the first planking layer's planks. It glues in ten seconds and its not fraudulous markething. Plus, when its glued, its very tought.

 

16815771063198753001565303199232.jpg

Posted

I am putting the second layer of planking on my Occre Frigate Diana.  I have had good luck with contact cement with the thin material provided for the planking, but I am a big believer in doing what works for you.  I have trouble getting a little messy with the CA, but that's me.  Good luck.  

Completed Build:   HMS Beagle - Occre

Current Builds:       Frigate Diana - Occre  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/

Santisima Trinidad - Occre - Cross Section https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37130-santisima-trinidad-by-rossr-occre-190-cross-section/

On the Shelf:           NRG Half Hull, the US Brig Syren - Model Shipways and USF Essex - Model Shipways

Posted (edited)

Which version do you prefer?

 

My carved version, without the visible char :

16815806696237008965091898290607.jpg

 

The kits plywood part with visible char :

16815808493931354307081611072275.jpg

 

Edited by Patrick B

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...