Used Cameron Drill Press Opinions Requested

[James G]

I’m in the process of fitting out my shop with quality tools that will both perform at a high level and will last for many years. I’ve been shopping for a micro drill press and have reviewed some of the excellent threads that are available on MSW. They’ve been very helpful. I’m now considering purchasing a used Cameron Drill Press on EBay. Used ones come on the market periodically and range in price from $300 to $800 depending on condition, age and accessories included. I’d prefer not to purchase a new Cameron if possible if a used one will do the job our hobby demands.

 

Here are my key questions.

1) Is a used Cameron a good direction to take vs new?

2) Does age matter? I see on our forum some members are using drill presses that are decades old.

3) Will a used Cameron perform at the level needed?

4) Should I be concerned about getting replacement parts if needed?

 

Thank you in advance for any input you can offer! I’m on the fence on the direction to go and am hoping your feedback will give me a nudge in the right direction.

 

Best,

Jim

[Hsae]

My two cents …

1) it depends how well maintained the drill press was/is

2) I don’t think that age matters as long as the drill press wasn’t abused 

3) well I guess you find out later. Unfortunately you can measure the concentricity on eBay. You have to trust the seller.

4) I guess that is with every machine you purchase a concern. Maybe you should buy some parts while they are available, like belts. On the other hand what kind of parts do you need with a drill press? I have a Proxxon for over 20 years now, without any issues. I am guessing you don’t use it every day anyway.

On the other hand you get a set up like in the picture below for roughly $300 new. Which in my case was from the point of accuracy sufficient (for my needs).

 

Hermann

 

 

 

Edited January 31, 2023 by Hsae

[druxey]

I had a second hand Dumore (not Cameron) for some years that I bought on eBay. I had to re-wire the very aged cord and I stripped down and re-sprayed the casing. It worked very well, but I used it so little that I sold it again.

Edited January 26, 2023 by druxey

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

2 hours ago, James G said:

fitting out my shop with quality tools that will perform at a high level

If it is only for model ship building, , this drill press is not required.

Cameron drill press are made to reach high level of concentricity on metal, and it is not necessary for wood.

 

2 hours ago, James G said:

range in price from $300 to $800 depending on condition

At $300, you will surely need to replace some parts, chuck and especially bearings.

[kurtvd19]

The Cameron is overkill if you are building wooden ships/boats.  The Proxon or Microlux drill presses are more than accurate enough.  Wood will expand and contract due to atmospheric changes more than one drill presses accuracy over another.  Personally I don't consider the various adaptions of a Dremel or other brand press - they are known for the inability to hold settings as they age - some right out of the box.

I have the top of the line Microlux press - variable speed with digital depth measure readout - with a good XY table & vise attachment the accuracy is more than adequate - at least for me.

[Roger Pellett]

The simple answer to your question is that a well built drill press that has been reasonably well taken care of should last a lifetime.  Mine is coming up on 60 years.

 

A more complicated question is whether spending $300 for this makes sense.  Like most things, it depends.  If you are just assembling model kits, I see little need for a drill press.  If you have more ambitious projects in mind then you need to consider the size of the table and height under the drilling head.  In this case, bigger is better and I would not buy a mini tool.  I use my drill press most days that I am working in my shop, but my project, a 1909 era steel lake freighter is somewhat of an outlier.  Since the topsides are soldered brass, I am constantly making jigs from craft plywood and aluminum to hold brass pieces in place for soldering and this requires many drilled hoes.  For drilling tiny holes in brass parts, I use a sensitive drilling attachment fitted to my Sherline milling column.

 

If I were spending $300 I would look for a quality full sized used drill press; Rockwell, Delta, etc.  OR, I would spend $100 for a Menards general purpose house brand drill press and save the remaining $200 for Sherline tools at a later date

 

Roger

 

 

[Bob Cleek]

Ditto to what Roger and Kurt just said above. I have a Craftsman/King Seely bench top drill press my father bought in 1950 that has always been well-maintained and actually, relatively speaking, very lightly used. For drilling tiny holes, which I generally do with a pin vise, I just chuck a pin vise with the small drill bit in it into the Jacobs chuck. (This does require a high quality chuck and pin vise (e.g. a Starrett or the equivalent) to ensure concentricity. It has a 1/4" collet adapter for the quill, so it can be used for light milling. I have an X-Y table I use on it when the task requires it. I've got no complaints. Made in USA "Old 'Arn" lasts a long time and was well made to begin with. 

 

If  you are going to spend money on new drilling tools for modeling, I'd be inclined to go with a quality drill/mill like the Sherline. A drill/mill will cost more than a drill press, but will provide a lot more versatility.

 

[kurtvd19]

Bob, I do the same 90% of the time as I keep the "little drill" covered.  Good pin vise can hold the numbered drill chucked into the full size drill press.

 

[mtaylor]

If you're thinking of buying a mill, than you have your drill press but only for wood.   I wouldn't use it for metal. The other thing, I use it as a drill press so seldom  and space in my shop limited that's it's just not worth the cost.  A good alternative is to get one the stands/mounts for a Dremdl type tool Hsae showed.   Do not get one the cheapies that has plastic parts.  I was given one a long time ago it just sits under my work bench.   It the plastic parts just twist and bend and anything drilling is pretty much impossible. 

[Jaager]

If you are only going to use it for wood,  you might consider going with just good enough.

 

My process requires a lot of holes. The holes have to be 90 degrees.  Most all of them are #70.  Top end is #50.

I use the Otto Frei version of a Eurotool DRL 300.00.  It has done what I have asked of it.

 

The basic unit is an economy machine that is sold all over the place.

It was $85 when I bought it.  Most units seem to be ~ $120 now.  

I am surprised to see it for sale at Rio Grande for $70.  I expect jewelry suppliers to stock the mfg output with the better QA and the bargain outfits to have the so-so units.

It sounds too good to be true.   I have been considering Rio Grande to be a quality outfit.

A good X-Y table will cost about as much as the drill - you do not want an X-Y table with a lot of slop.

A foot operated momentary switch will add to the total cost.

[James G]

Thank you all for the wonderful feedback! Exactly what I was hoping for. Based on your responses it looks like there are several better solutions than a used Cameron. I’ve been using a Dremel in the plastic stand they offer and have been extremely frustrated with the lack of concentricity. The main use will indeed be for ship modeling. At this time I’m building from the many fine kits offered. I enjoy kit bashing and hope to do more scratch work as my skills improve. A Sherman mill is a possibility down the road. However, I have much to learn before I get to that point. I’m trying to take my time and make the right tool selections as my abilities dictate. I do love my Jim Byrnes table saw! However, nothing worse than spending a lot of money on tools that you don’t even understand how to fully maximize. It seems in ship building this is an easy thing to do! Again, many thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences. 
 

Sincerely,

Jim

[Bill Tuttle]

Jim,

 

You have received some excellent advice from all of the replies.  I purchased a Cameron Drill press about 40 years ago from a professional modelmaker.  I have had excellent performance from it and their service is beyond compare as well as advice over the phone.  As, I believe Kurt mentioned it is overkill but I find it very useful when I am making blocks or something that requires a lot of repeat work, using one of the X/Y vices I believe was made by Charlie Files, the manufacturer of the Preac Table saw.  You will never be sorry you bought it and service as well as parts, have been available for years.  If you are still interested I would recommend a look at their website and a call to their service folks.  They have always been very helpful to me but I have never had a need for any replacement parts on my old machine.  

[clifforddward]

Jim:

I'll echo the comments made by Bill above...I purchased my Cameron Drill Press 42 years ago and find it one of my most treasured pieces of kit in the workshop...probably overkill for 90% of wood parts in shipbuilding, but for that remaining 10% of the jobs that can benefit from a high quality tool it is priceless.  I have been able to obtain any spare part needed directly from the manufacturer although spares are not needed often as I have kept mine properly lubricated over the years.  I now also have a Sherline mill that could be used for drilling of fine holes, but the Cameron Drill press is still my go-to tool.  I'd say $450-600 would be a typical used price for one in good shape that has not been abused.

Best Regards,

Cliff 

Edited March 16, 2023 by clifforddward

[Robere210]

The Cameron is one of the finest small D.P.s made.  If you love fine machines, you'll love the Cameron.  But if a machine is just something to get the job done then you'll probably do just fine with something cheaper.

[Bill Tuttle]

I believe Robere's post sums it up perfectly. And furthermore I have seen some real good buys recently on these machines. 

[Robere210]

I've bought a lot of tools and machines over the years, many on ebay.  I've been snookered a few times, but overall I'm happy with what I've got.  I tend to buy used tools and machines.  If only a few pictures are shown in an ebay listing, I'll ask extensive questions to find out what the seller knows about the machine, but more importantly to find out if the seller seems trustworthy.  So far, so good.