rudybob Posted March 13, 2023 Share #1 Posted March 13, 2023 A problem I am having is gluing. By the time I get to one end of placing glue on the bulkheads the end I started on has dried more than I would like. I have been using Gorilla Wood Glue and a little bit of CA. Does anyone have any suggestions? Perhaps I need a glue that doesn't dry as fast mtaylor, robert952 and Ryland Craze 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted March 13, 2023 Share #2 Posted March 13, 2023 Slower glue or faster fingers? Seriously, thouigh, a bit of either or both would probably lessen the problem. The only other thing to do is work one bulkhead at a time, rather than trying to put glue on them all at once. Ryland Craze, robert952, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share #3 Posted March 13, 2023 5 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said: The only other thing to do is work one bulkhead at a time, rather than trying to put glue on them all at once. I didn't think of one at a time. I did several at a time. They are close but it's worth a try. robert952 and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlevine Posted March 13, 2023 Share #4 Posted March 13, 2023 By only applying glue to a few bulkheads at a time, you almost eliminate the need for clamps. Hold it in place with your fingers for a few minutes and you are good to go. Apply the glue to the bulkhead with either a toothpick or a #11 Exacto blade. rudybob, robert952, allanyed and 2 others 5 Quote Toni Chairman Nautical Research Guild Member Nautical Research and Model Society Member Midwest Model Shipwrights Current Builds: Utrecht-1742 Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale Half Hull Planking Project Capstan Project Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale Echo Cross Section NRG Rigging Project Utrecht-1742 Gallery: Hannah - 1:36 scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkeater Posted March 13, 2023 Share #5 Posted March 13, 2023 Are you heat bending your planks. If not then that might be your solution. I don't use cyanoacrylate just white (carpenters glue). CA I'd bet is causing your quick drying time. Richard mtaylor, rudybob and robert952 3 Quote Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777 Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796 Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share #6 Posted March 14, 2023 2 hours ago, barkeater said: Are you heat bending your planks. If not then that might be your solution. I don't use cyanoacrylate just white (carpenters glue). CA I'd bet is causing your quick drying time. Richard Yes I am bending the planks. I rarely use CA. I was trying to do to many planks at once mtaylor and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share #7 Posted March 14, 2023 2 hours ago, tlevine said: By only applying glue to a few bulkheads at a time, you almost eliminate the need for clamps. Hold it in place with your fingers for a few minutes and you are good to go. Apply the glue to the bulkhead with either a toothpick or a #11 Exacto blade. I been using a toothpick but haven't been happy with them. I will try the #11. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted March 14, 2023 Share #8 Posted March 14, 2023 My experience with yellow PVA (Titebond II) is that it has as long of an open time as I need. Theory only: If the POB molds are plywood, would priming the open edge with an insertion of PVA and letting it dry long before the planking stage, to fill the gaps provide a better bonding surface? For standard POB, I don't see that racing thru the planking stage is practical. POF or POB with Pine or Basswood fillers the whole way, if the planking is clamped using brass pins with hitch clocks can be done as quickly as tolerated. Pins in plywood end grain is mostly a wasted effort. Drilling the holes to match the proper pattern adds a significant time factor though. It replaces a racing engine with a lawnmower engine. The pins nipped and filed or pulled and replaced with Bamboo trunnels, adds a different look. Many more of them are needed for the finished look than required for just holding down a plank. The resulting look is a modelers convention. Except for the largest scales, pins and trunnels that are the proper scale diameter are all but impossible. allanyed, mtaylor and rudybob 3 Quote NRG member 50 years Current: NMS HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - POF framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted March 14, 2023 Share #9 Posted March 14, 2023 7 hours ago, rudybob said: I didn't think of one at a time. I did several at a time. They are close but it's worth a try. I'll mention further that if you have a small clothes iron or electric plank bender, or even a hair drier, you can apply heat to the outside of the plank (taking care not to scorch it) while holding it in place. The heat will substantially accelerate the drying time of the PVA. mtaylor, Ryland Craze and rudybob 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share #10 Posted March 14, 2023 7 hours ago, Bob Cleek said: I'll mention further that if you have a small clothes iron or electric plank bender, or even a hair drier, you can apply heat to the outside of the plank (taking care not to scorch it) while holding it in place. The heat will substantially accelerate the drying time of the PVA. I have used the iron and the hair dryer to bend my planks but not to dry glue. This is the first I have read that. I will try it mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share #11 Posted March 14, 2023 11 hours ago, Jaager said: POF or POB with Pine or Basswood fillers the whole way, POF , POB ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted March 14, 2023 Share #12 Posted March 14, 2023 (edited) For POF, Pine is a low cost wood to use for frames that will be hidden. It works as well as is needed. I dislike Basswood and its tendency to be fuzzy and for the fibers to roll make it a poor choice for frames from my perspective. For POB, either Pine or Basswood will do. For reasons that seem good but really are not, Balsa is favored by many. It is certainly soft and seems like it would be easy to remove what is not wanted. But Balsa is ugly to work. It does not plane, rasp, file, or sand nicely. It is fibrous and wants to tear. A sharp edge will want to dig in and stop a cut. Most POB modelers who do fill all of the gaps between molds use a horizontal orientation for the filling wood. A disk sander makes it easy to get a tight fit between molds. The down side is that the shaping is done in situ. Major wood removal is done on the whole hull. I recommend the filling be done with the wood mimicking actual frames in orientation. The inside can be left fat enough for Bamboo skewers to be used to join and orient a stack of layers. The mold shapes can be used as the pattern and a disk sander can be used for shaping the individual slices. Then joined using the Bamboo and final shaped . Then slud into the gap between their molds. A throw away end piece can be used to make up the difference in thickness for the mold with the pattern on the other side. The holes for the Bamboo dowels make orientation easy, so the identical pattern can be on both ends. If the sum of the layer thicknesses come up a bit short, poster board can be used to shim the difference. Edited March 14, 2023 by Jaager mtaylor and Snug Harbor Johnny 2 Quote NRG member 50 years Current: NMS HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - POF framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share #13 Posted March 14, 2023 2 hours ago, rudybob said: POF , POB ? I got it now Plank on Bulkhead, Plank on Frame mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ERS Rich Posted March 14, 2023 Share #14 Posted March 14, 2023 Hello Rudy, Not sure how long the plank being installed is. Working with short planks is easiest. My preference is a plank that spans four bulkheads. And Titebond wood glue with Locktite superglue. Apply Titebond with a toothpick along one edge, set the plank aside, then a dot of super glue on each bulkhead. Place the plank and push the edge with Titebond against its neighbor. Apply pressure at each bulkhead until the superglue sets. The superglue will fix the plank in place, while the Titebond dries. Use a scrap plank to scape any squeeze out. Checkout my Constitution Hull build log for more planking examples- link in my signature below. Cheers mtaylor and Knocklouder 2 Quote Build Logs: USS Maine, USS Constitution (Hull) Albums: Baltimore Clipper, Sherbourne Cutter, Lackawanna Tug, Eagle Coastal Schooner, Katy Pilot Boat, Sultana Colonial Schooner, Armed Virginia Sloop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ERS Rich Posted March 14, 2023 Share #15 Posted March 14, 2023 Checkout this build post: Knocklouder and mtaylor 2 Quote Build Logs: USS Maine, USS Constitution (Hull) Albums: Baltimore Clipper, Sherbourne Cutter, Lackawanna Tug, Eagle Coastal Schooner, Katy Pilot Boat, Sultana Colonial Schooner, Armed Virginia Sloop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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