Lettering

[bobc622]

I need to know where to buy lettering transfers. I also need advice on the best way to use them. Thank you.

[mtaylor]

It may take some doing but try art supply stores and stationary shops.   They may no carry them in stock but might be able to order them.   Also but do a bit of Googling and see what's available.  Lettraset used to the top of the line but I have no idea if they even exist anymore.

[Bob Cleek]

Letraset was acquired by Windsor and Newton some time ago. I don't know that they still make letter and number transfer sheets. That technology was one which went the way of the dodo bird when desktop publishing fonts became available. I'm guessing they are no longer made by Letraset since I've seen them offered on eBay as "NOS" ("new old stock") for much more than I ever paid for a sheet back in the day. Perhaps somebody else is manufacturing them, but I haven't noticed them in the art supply stores in some time.

 

"Hot" transfer sheets are easily made if you have, or have access to, an electrostatic (laser) copy machine. The trick is to mirror-reverse that lettering font you want and print that on the "dark" setting. This will give you a mirror image of the type you have chosen imprinted with a thick layer of black toner powder. You can then take that copy and lay it face down on wherever you want the lettering to be transferred and gently go over it with a medium-hot clothes iron. This will melt the toner again so it sticks to the surface of the item you want to attach it to. This takes a bit of experimentation, but works quite well once you perfect the technique.

 

The other alternative is to purchase blank decal sheets which can be run through your home printer to create your own decal sheets.

[Roger Pellett]

The last dry transfer letters that I bought were made by Woodland Scenics and probably bought on Amazon.  The Model RR suppliers might be the last holdout for this technology.

 

Roger

[DennisL]

I bought transfer letters direct from woodland scenic on their website last year.  They have a number of different fonts, sizes and colors.  Gold, white. Etc. I would try them as they responded in a timely manner.

[Dr PR]

I have used rub-on dry transfer letters as stencils for painting. I developed this technique when I couldn't find the correct colors for the lettering on a railroad engine model.

 

1. First I paint the surface the desired letter color.

 

2. When that is dry I rub on the letters.

 

3. Then I spray over the letters with the desired surround color.

 

4. After the paint is dry I lift off the rub-ons with masking tape.

 

****

 

The advantages of this technique are:

 

The rub-on letters are relatively thick and stand out on the model surface. The resulting painted letters are just a layer of paint thick.

 

Rub-on letters can peel off when they age. Paint doesn't (shouldn't if painted correctly).

 

You can have any color letters (paint) you want - the colors of rub-on letters are limited. Any color dry transfer letters will work.

 

The paint flows into cracks and uneven surfaces better that dry transfer letters (or water slide decals).

 

You do not have to cover the painted letters with a clear paint coat to prevent them from aging and turning yellow.

 

****

 

Look in craft stores. I have seen large selections of fonts and sizes.

[Bob Cleek]

Brilliant technique! Thanks for sharing it.

 

[shipman]

I made a good living as a graphic artist many moons ago.

Letraset was always part of the 'stock in trade'.

It was always expensive and covered a vast range of letter forms and other products.

I still have a proper storage cabinet full of the stuff.

On the rare occasion, when I need to dip into it it still works. Amazing, 40 years 'on the shelf'.

 

(EDIT) DrPR gives a good description of a very useful technique.

 

Success using Letraset or similar products depends on experience/practice.

First you need to source the font in the size you need, hopefully in a suitable colour.

Each and every carrier sheet can be variable in flexibility.

If needed, the bond between letter and sheet can be pre-prepped by lightly burnishing the letter over the 'gloss' side of the backing sheet, so on actual placing the letter, it seems to glide off the carrier sheet.

It's hard enough to apply instant lettering directly onto paper correctly; applying it directly onto a model's contoured surface will be a real faff, but it can be done.

A proper burnisher is essential (not a biro or pencil).

A failed or broken letter can be removed using drafting tape.

Once each letter is applied satisfactorily, burnish it down using the backing sheet 'gloss' side down, before the next letter.

Instant lettering remains relatively soft and is easily scratched; a clear coat is another essential part of the process.

For a novice this will be a frustrating procedure, fraught with failures.

It can take a long learning curve, but once done can seem like magic.

The biggest problem is, after all your efforts, you run out of the last letter you need on the sheet and have to buy another complete sheet just to provide it.

I trained several studio assistants; using Letraset was an essential skill, but a good proportion never did get the hang of it.

Edited July 9, 2023 by shipman
More info

[allanyed]

On 7/7/2023 at 3:39 PM, bobc622 said:

I need to know where to buy lettering transfers. I also need advice on the best way to use them. Thank you.

What/where will these be used? Is it for a plastic model or wood or some other?  A little more detail may bring up some alternative solutions that you would like to try.

Allan

[GrandpaPhil]

I like to generate lettering using word art in Microsoft Word.

 

I make up what I want in Word, then I print, cut out the lettering and glue it down with PVA.

 

I finish up by sealing the lettering.

[Bob Cleek]

Believe it or not, I still on occasion find my collection of LEROY templates and lettering instruments useful. The ASCII-standard letters are utilitarian and boring, but some of the old odd-ball fonts produce some amazing work. While I'm often a laser printer font cut-and-paster, there's still nothing like an India inked old style font from the turn of the last century to give a drawing a real period feel.  

[GrandpaPhil]

The stuff that you can do with the Word Art is pretty neat too:

It took me a bit to figure it out, but once I did it turned out well.

Edited July 11, 2023 by GrandpaPhil