HM Gun Brig Adder 1797 by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[ECK]

Will finish first planking this weekend but also having same issues. The bluff bow looks nice but actually harder to plank than more traditional bow point.

[ECK]

First step is to glue the false keel. I temporarily attached the stern post to get the high correct. Also added some wood filler to fill the empty space and allow something to glue to planks.

 

 

I followed Chris' advice and first clamped the upper bulwark in place (having soaked and bent into place and dried overnight). Subsequently glued and pinned the first plank line and also glued and clamped the bottom line of planks. The removed the upper works so not to mess up during the gluing and sanding.

 

[DB789]

Hi Eck, your Adder is looking super, hope you’re enjoying building her as much as I am. I think that the last two posts were probably meant for your build log? 
Best wishes

Dan 

[ECK]

Sorry, my bad. Sometimes the site is not the easiest  to get to the correct place.

[DB789]

Making some good progress on the ratlines, just the main topmast ratlines still to do. I have added the fore topgallant shrouds too. 
 

As always, plenty of room for improvement! 
 

Once the shrouds/ratlines are complete, I’ll fit and rig the bowsprit and spritsail yard. 
 

I’ll follow the build order in the instructions after this which suggests adding the yards, boom and gaff (all yet to be made). I’m a little worried they will be in the way when I add the stays, but I guess it’s the case vice versa too? 

[barkingmaddbarry]

On 3/27/2024 at 1:40 PM, 0gri said:

Hi Dan,appologise for no log,i no longer posses a camera and as i spend most of my time closly examining pictures of the part im currently working on i dont think a text only log would attract any attention :-).If theres anything i can help with please feel free to pm me but im sure chris will answer any questions you have.I spent yesterday building the rudder and post,and the 24 pounders,all of which flew together very easily and look fantastic.
ps.if anybody is reading this considering Adder as there next build please do not be put off by my use of the word struggle,i cannot recommend vangaurd models highly enough.

i do really agree on that, vanguard models are something , i am currently on the adder too, after finishing the vanguard and nisha , the way chris design he's models makes a big difference 

[DB789]

Shrouds and ratlines complete. I’ve attached the bowsprit too. Rigging the bowsprit next, then making and adding the spritsail yard. 

[Oboship]

I love this ship and your building skills!

 

Since I am a merchant marine man I don't have an admiral, but a superintendent to negotiate important purchases with...😉

Uwe

[DB789]

Thanks Uwe. 
 

I’ve added the bowsprit rigging, fairly straightforward except there’s a PE ring with four smaller rigs attached to the rim that is at the end of the bowsprit. Being clumsy I managed to break off three of these rings. I’ve CA glued on three replacement rings but they’re not strong so each line goes through the rings and then is tied through the bowsprit rather than the ring. 

I’ve left some lines tied and unglued so I can add tension later if they go slack when other rigging is added. 

Also added the main boom and gaff. Much the same as on the fore and aft rigged vessels I’ve built. 

Onto the yards next I think. Is there a better sequence - start at the top and work down? I’m thinking of doing the main mast yards first and then moving to the fore mast. 
 

I’ve still to add most of the stays - I reckon it’s easier to add the yards before the stays? 
 

Any advice very welcome. Thanks! 

[chris watton]

Add yards, but just add the parrels/slings and tyes, though, and lifts later.

[DB789]

1 minute ago, chris watton said:

Add yards, but just add the parrels/slings and tyes, though, and lifts later.

Thanks Chris, I’ll do that. Much appreciate the advice. Dan 

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, DB789 said:

On to the yards next I think. Is there a better sequence - start at the top and work down? I’m thinking of doing the main mast yards first and then moving to the fore mast. 

 

I look at the rigging runs and belaying points to decide what to rig and when and where possible will follow the sequence in the rigging plans.  I find it better to work from bottom to top each topic. E.g. I will rig all yard lifts before moving on to rigging all the braces.

 

I also agree with the advice from Chris in his reply reply.

[DB789]

Thanks Glenn, much appreciated. 

[hollowneck]

21 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

E.g. I will rig all yard lifts before moving on to rigging all the braces.

I suggest rigging braces last.

[DB789]

Thanks Ron. Will do. 

[DB789]

I’d love some advice. I’m fitting the yards to the main mast. 
 

I can’t work out from the plans how the line that goes through a hole in the topgallant mast and holds up the topgallant yard works - not sure if this is called a tye or a jeer? I’ve checked the Petersson book I have but it’s not clear either. 

 

The plans appear to show this line “C” tied to a block “N” which in turn has lines running to a block attached to the maintop “K” (single 3mm block) on the plans. And then back up to the “N” and then belayed to the aft port belaying pins rack at “17”. 
 

The letters actually refer to the size of blocks and thickness of line, but I’m using them to illustrate my question. 

How does the block “K” attach to the maintop? 
When the maintop was built there was no indication of needing a block or eye pin at the aft of the maintop (RHS below) although there are two small line running fore and aft that could be eyebolts with hindsight. 
Chris, I hope it’s ok to post a few small segments of plans on here? 

The manual suggest doesn’t mention any eyebolts here either, but there’s a photo in the manual which shows two eyebolts in that place where my messy yellow arrow points. 

I’m guessing that’s what I should be attaching a block to, but I don’t have the access to drill a hole and add an eyebolt and block anymore there as there’s so much rigging around it. Could I get away with adding a block to one of the stanchions at the rear of the maintop instead? 
 

I think I’ve worked out what should happen for this line, but not sure how I’ll actually be able to fix it! 
 

Any advice greatly appreciated. 

Many thanks

 

Dan

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Dan

Definitely should be two eyebolts on the each platform and the K block is secured to an eyebolt.

 

There are holes provided on parts 75 and 78 for these eyebolts so there should be no need to drill.

 

I normally seize blocks to eyebolts before fitting them to ship.

 

Hope that helps

Glenn

Edited July 21 by Glenn-UK

[ECK]

If the hole are obscured by paint you can use a hand drill or needle to open it up and then just glue in an eyebolt.

[DB789]

Glenn, Eck,

 

Thank you both. Really appreciated. I’ll try and get the eyebolt in there with block attached!

 

Best wishes

 

Dan

[DB789]

Adder’s rigging is progressing. Most of the main mast rigging is in place except for lifts, braces and any stays to the foremast that would get in the way of adding the yards to the foremast. 

The access problem to add eyebolts to the maintop was resolved by removing the wooden railing at the rear of the maintop. I’ll need to do the same for the foretop. 

I haven’t gone into any detail on the log of how I’ve gone about rigging, I’m sure it would just be a guide of how not to do it and the use of too much CA glue. 

The yards aren’t aligned properly yet and will be when lifts and braces are added. 

As far as possible I’ve tied lines off or crocodile clipped them rather than glued so I can tension them later if need be. 
I won’t be able to work on Adder much, if at all for the next 3 weeks, but after that will be back on the case. 

[Oboship]

Looks great!

Uwe

[Glenn-UK]

Great work Dan.

[DB789]

Thanks for all the comments and encouragement. 
 

Adder’s rigging is now complete. Rigging Adder has been a steep learning curve for me. I liked Adder as a subject but the kit has been an ideal stepping stone for me as my first square rigger. I’m very glad I followed Chris’s advice to build Adder before Speedy as the latter has more running rigging too which for me would have been too much. 

Chris’s plans are excellent but I haven’t found it easy. A few of the lines aren’t belayed to the correct points as I couldn’t get them around the belaying pins, but otherwise I think pretty true to the plans. 

One thing I find very hard is keeping as many as possible of the lines not tied off so I can adjust the rigging and don’t end up with slack lines where the tension has changed from other rigging ropes. I’d be interested to know how others deal with this? I use CA glue too much on the rigging I think which is almost impossible to undo, but I’d struggle to do the rigging without it. 

All that’s outstanding now are the anchors, refitting a carronade that has come loose, putting some matt varnish on the shiny parrel beads and mouses, and the stand. There maybe a few very small touch-ups too. I may add a red ensign too.

I understand that these gun brigs were primarily used as a form of coastal assault vessel. It looks to me as though most of the bowsprit rigging and the spritsail yard would need to be dismantled before the forward 24-pounders could fire. 
One other generic question about square riggers (and showing my ignorance) but all the kits show the vessels with the main yard raised to the top of the lower mast ie in the position where it would be if a sail raised. Whilst the top and topgallant yards are both at the lowest position on their masts. Was this just the way square riggers had their masts in harbour in real life? 

[hollowneck]

47 minutes ago, DB789 said:

One thing I find very hard is keeping as many as possible of the lines not tied off so I can adjust the rigging and don’t end up with slack lines where the tension has changed from other rigging ropes

I address this running rigging challenge by attaching small alligator clips to the falls (or halliards) temporarily on one side (say, Starboard), then I proceed on the larboard side with the complimentary lines and adjust these by hand and eye so there is visual symmetry and tighter runs for the opposing ropes - especially the lifts, braces and clew lines. In other words, I don't tie-off (secure) many rigging lines until both sides are nearly fully-rigged. I hope this description helps. I wish there were an online video on this process; I'm not aware of one.

47 minutes ago, DB789 said:

One other generic question about square riggers (and showing my ignorance) but all the kits show the vessels with the main yard raised to the top of the lower mast ie in the position where it would be if a sail raised.

The "main yard" (also called a "course" whether on the fore or main mast), was fixed and wasn't raised or lowered while at sea. The topmast and topgallant yards were raised and lowered while sailing, but typically, these upper yards usually stayed fixed in their fully raised positions; their sails were furled (gathered and secured at the yard) or reefed (partially "reduced" or gathered) depending on the wind conditions. Also, the wind is much more forceful at greater heights above the water. Captains and sailing masters constantly worried about losing a topmast to its sail exerting a force that would break it. This was especially the case with the thinner topgallant masts.

 

You've done an excellent job with your rigging. It looks "shipshape" to my eyes!

Ron

Edited August 29 by hollowneck
grammar

[hollowneck]

58 minutes ago, DB789 said:

I understand that these gun brigs were primarily used as a form of coastal assault vessel. It looks to me as though most of the bowsprit rigging and the spritsail yard would need to be dismantled before the forward 24-pounders could fire. 

Bear in mind that the forward cannon's line of sight would be clear once the spritsail yard was raised. You can see this for yourself by getting down to a low viewing angle on the model and viewing the cannon's muzzles. Gunboats were often anchored when they went into action which means their sails would be slackened or furled, thus out of the way for the 24 pounders at the prow to do their work.

 

 

Edited August 29 by hollowneck

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Dan

You have done a fantastic job your Adder looks great. Well done.

 

Glenn

[DB789]

7 hours ago, hollowneck said:

I address this running rigging challenge by attaching small alligator clips to the falls (or halliards) temporarily on one side (say, Starboard), then I proceed on the larboard side with the complimentary lines and adjust these by hand and eye so there is visual symmetry and tighter runs for the opposing ropes - especially the lifts, braces and clew lines. In other words, I don't tie-off (secure) many rigging lines until both sides are nearly fully-rigged. I hope this description helps. I wish there were an online video on this process; I'm not aware of one.

Thanks Ron, that’s very helpful, it’s roughly what I did so I’m glad I’m on the right track, although the lines did start to tangle up towards the end! 
 

7 hours ago, hollowneck said:

The "main yard" (also called a "course" whether on the fore or main mast), was fixed and wasn't raised or lowered while at sea. The topmast and topgallant yards were raised and lowered while sailing, but typically, these upper yards usually stayed fixed in their fully raised positions; their sails were furled (gathered and secured at the yard) or reefed (partially "reduced" or gathered) depending on the wind conditions.

That’s a really helpful explanation, thank you. Do you know why we typically depict the topmast and topgallant yards in the lower position on the masts if they were usually raised? Was that their position in port? 
 

I really appreciate the advice, thank you. 

[DB789]

3 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

Hello Dan

You have done a fantastic job your Adder looks great. Well done.

 

Glenn

Thanks Glenn, very much enjoying your much more detailed Adder log too. She’s looking super. 

[AJohnson]

Well done Dan, looking forward to seeing the finishing touches. 

[ECK]

Very well done!   I usually have a clamp on the other line as I am belaying one side. I do not glue anything until the end when everything look aligned. Await your next project.