HMS Indefatigable 1794 by ir3 - Vanguard Models

[ir3]

I had some issues with attempting the Sphinx and the CAF Granado. I made some mistakes on the Sphinx, and I think mostly to do with the size of the parts I was working with. The Granado was another story and certainly for the very experienced scratch builder. After agonizing over some of the larger scale kits including Surprise, Bonhomme Richard and Royal Caroline I chose the Indy. Kudos to Chris for this model. With very careful thought to assembling the kit, even a mere mortal like me finds it extremely easy to build up to now. What other kit would allow you to get to where I am in less than 8 hours of time. I am enjoying every moment. A pleasure to work on.

 

I am not going to do a complete build thread but only post when I run across problems that I need some help with. There are very able modelers that are building this model, and their threads are tutorials for me. I'm up to step 83 and happy that the main hull structure is finished.

 

Till next time.

 

Some pictures:

 

[James H]

Nice start. 

 

I do think posting more photos will help, as it you get to a problem, we can look at the previous stages to see where an error originated. 

 

Also, posting as you go along will possibly help us to tell you of potential problems BEFORE they occur. 

 

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure 😊

[mugje]

Nice choice and have fun with this beast!

[ir3]

Thanks for the replies. A bit more progress. Up to step 126. the false deck had its problems but seems to be glued down ok. A few minor issues with the stern, in particular the door frames to the galleys. When putting on the temporary beams, the slots for the pegs were quite tight but manageable. So, most of the hull is complete and now on to the inner bulwarks. No major obstacles so far😊.

 

Till next time.

 

Some pictures:

 

 

[ir3]

Now up to step 143, the dreaded fairing of the hull. Putting in the deck beam support strips was a bit fiddly, but the beams slotted in without adjustment. Fairing will test my patience as so in the past. It is an area where I wish I could get it done in a few minutes, but I will force myself to take my time. The area where I need to be very careful is the upper part of the framing where it tends to be a bit concave (I believe it is called the tumblehome?).

 

More to follow when I am released from my padded cell (LOL).

 

 

[James H]

Nice to see this coming along so well. She really does look great!

[ir3]

A problem on the Aft Port Side Outer Bulwarks. It appears to be about 2mm to 3mm too long. The Forward Port Side Outer Bulwarks is spot on. Can I fix this by shortening the center piece marked R. I do not understand the difference between this and the Starboard side which had no error at all.

 

 

[James H]

Can you post more photos of the internal bulwarks, and the opposite side?

 

It may mean that you need to shuffle that part forward by making an adjustment, but I'd also be looking across the tops of the bulwarks to see if the upper alignment between the two is skewed.

 

 

[ir3]

Thanks James, My mistake. I had to resoak the Forward Outer Bulwarks and didn't wait till it shrunk back to correct size before fitting the other Bulwarks. It shrunk by about 2mm. I didn't realize the Pear could expand that much but Chris does mention that in the assembly manual. Problem solved.

[James H]

2 minutes ago, ir3 said:

Chris does mention that in the assembly manual

 

That would be me. I wrote the Indy manual. Pear expands enormously. I alway advise waiting 24hrs to dry after any soaking. 

[ir3]

My Faux Pas, well done.

[ir3]

I am now at the point I dread the most. The second plank has to be bent is such a way to wrap around the sharp curve in the stern. Most of the planks will be relatively easy to manage but not the first one. I have pictures of the area and I am concerned it is still not prepped properly. If it is close, it appears the plank shown will need a twist. The twist will become less and less as planks are added. In the past I have always built hulls where the stern was flat, and the planks did not have to bend around the stern. How do I best proceed getting the first plank fitted?

 

 

[mugje]

personally I would fill the empty spaces between the MDF pieces at the stern, and then sand it like the shape it needs to be. It gives me more visual aid to see how everything needs to fit. I found this helpful with my Sphinx build. But maybe others have better tips for this  

Edited June 3 by mugje

[James H]

I tend to use a plank nipper on those. 

 

You can curl a plank in any direction, real quick.

[ir3]

While waiting for some planking tools and clamps I ventured into the part of building the lower masts. My experiences and skills for ship modeling are quite limited. Not too many successes in the past. With the Indy kit, Chris has made it possible for modelers that are not at the expert or master level to produce a museum quality ship model. The attention to detail in producing the kit is unmatched. The plans are superb. For the Masting plans the details are so clear and concise, assembly is very straight forward. Thanks to Chris and James, building a model of this quality has been made easy for us middle of the roaders.

 

Enough emoting. Building the lower mast sections was quite easy but not without some minor glitches. I should have read several times the great build threads for this model on MSW. The builders on MSW turn the threads into tutorials which are most helpful. Now I need to paint (UGH) the lower mast sections.

 

More to follow.

[James H]

2 hours ago, ir3 said:

With the Indy kit, Chris has made it possible for modelers that are not at the expert or master level to produce a museum quality ship model.

 

At this point, I definitely feel I must highlight how we grade kits.

 

https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/understanding-our-skill-levels-ratings/

[ir3]

I need to see a video, if one is available, to add the woolding to a mast. I have the lower masts painted and would like to rig them. I tried several times at winding the woolding but just not too successful. The issue is pulling the loop down. Does it just come down to the windings or is it pulled under the windings.

 

[James H]

1 minute ago, ir3 said:

Does it just come down to the windings or is it pulled under the windings.

 

It's pulled down under the windings. You start with a loop at the start of the windings, and then you tuck down behind the windings when in place and then pull the loop to lock into place. I then add a little PVA to seal.

[ir3]

Thanks James.

[chris watton]

I do include a drawing showing how to add the woolding:

[ir3]

Woolding on the Fore Mast. Took several tries on the first one trying to find a technique. The Main and Mizzen will be a lot easier.

[ir3]

The Iron banding is in place. I tried blackening the deadeye strap but when installing the deadeye most of the brass started showing through. So probably not a good idea or perhaps rubbing out the remaining straps and another bath in the blackening agent. No major issue as I can paint once installed in the top.