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On to my second build, and the second in the progressive Shipwright series by David Antscherl.

 

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I spent some time looking into this one a bit more first, and I find it particularly exciting. First, I have a designated spot to display it, and secondly, it's based on a boat with prints. As mentioned in my previous build, this hobby has given me the drive to build a full-sized boat. I bought the plans which will help in building the model, but is also something I think would be nice to build with my daughter when she's older. Having both a full sized and a scale model of the same boat makes this build all the more interesting! (Even if it's the better part of a decade before I start).

 

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I'm not too deep into the build, and I don't expect either my work or personal schedule to lighten up much until after September so progress won't be quick. On a positive note, I seem to be done with medical tests and appointments for the foreseeable future and have successfully navigated the slow recovery from my most recent procedure. Of course I hurt my neck and back on the weekend working in the yard which has been ruining my sleep. I seem to be having a rough few months.

 

Log #1

 

The full plans designed by Simon Watts were only $30 (USD) and have already helped quickly clarify things 2 or 3 times before barely getting started. I have them up on a room divider close to my workstation. Three of the drawings were E sized and so far those are the only ones I've printed.

 

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After cleaning up the transom parts I needed a sturdy way to bevel the edges. I find the bevel guide a great idea and a very helpful addition to the kit. I used the build board from the dory, and some rubber cement to attach a piece of sandpaper to it. The biggest thing to note here was the incorrect instructions that specified to face the etch marks away when beveling the lower aft transom. However, pictures and other build logs (as well as the full sized drawings) determined this was wrong.

 

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This worked very well for the bow and lower aft transom; however, I was getting a rolling bevel on the upper aft transom so I switched to a sturdier block. This was possibly due to it's larger size and I also noticed a slight curve in the build board I was using to sand.

 

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Center-lines are marked and knees are glued. Another thing that the drawings helped clarify was the orientation of the transom knees. I also needed verification that the lower aft transom knee was going on the right piece since it appears shorter and doesn't appear to reach the top of that piece in the instruction pictures.

 

The next time I get back to it, the glue will be dried, I will drill out the transom hole, bevel all the edges and complete the aft transom by attaching both pieces. Then it's just a matter of assembling the building board and planking will be right around the corner.

 

The only thing confusing me tonight was the note on making two angled razor saw cuts in the lower transom. It's kind of just glossed over, but after looking at it about three times I think they're trying to tell me to make it the same angle as the bevel. The sole purpose being to separate the side bevels from the center tab. This makes far more sense than some of my first thoughts. I'll double check some other logs or comments here before going ahead with that to be sure.

 

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Thanks for looking,

Matt

 

Edited by MBerg
Random photos placements fixed

On the slip:

Norwegian sailing pram

 

On the drafting table:

OcCre Polaris

Muscongus Bay lobster smack

 

Completed:

Lowell Grand Banks Dory

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Thanks Dan, I'll definitely be following yours along as I progress. It will be kind of neat to follow a current build log at the same time.

 

So far I haven't looked at the full pram instructions, have just referred to the large drawings. I don't think they're helping me build any differently, but they're definitely quickening up the time when something needs clarified. I'm less so needing to use build logs to search through for small answers. I'm starting to really understand the appeal of scratch builds as well. I wish I had a nice way to bevel based on specific angles instead of using the etch lines because the drawings show the different degrees of each bevel along the transom edges.

 

Log #2

 

Not enough progress for a full log I would say, but there are some things to mention and I'm fully ready to start planking so I figure it's a good 'break' in the steps having the next log start there.

 

Due to my limited workspace and the need for the vice, I ended up clamping it to a table that we don't care about. It's not ideal, but is only about 10 feet from where I'm working so not terrible.

 

Hole drilled in the bow transom/knee, and beveled. One thing that screwed me up a bit was the transom etch lines were fairly deep so I had to be careful. At times, it was hard to tell if I had gone past the line or not since it was still visible even when sanding it off at surface level (3rd picture down).

 

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Bevel lines still visible after sanding beyond them.

 

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I struggled with the aft transom a bit. I think the grain on the lower portion was throwing me off. It did not look straight when I glued it to the upper portion. I ended up taking it apart and re-gluing it, but again, It didn't look right. I ended up checking each side with calipers and only saw a difference of around 0.2 - 0.3 mm if I remember correctly. I could do this all day, I don't think I'm going to get better than that.

 

Glued the transom knee and started beveling. I realized I couldn't quite get the right bevel because the knee was sitting a little too high on the transom. Unfortunately the glue had cured by the time I noticed. I contemplated whether or not it needed fixing, or if I could just fill the gap that will be there between the knee and keel plank when I get that far. And then @druxey's voice from my dory build popped into my head "if you aren't happy with something now, you won't be happy with it later!". Okay fine, I'll re-glue it, at least I get more de-bonding experience. After taking it off, I noticed the edge where it meets the transom was at a very slight angle. I re-sanded it flat and re-attached. I guess one of my lines on the transom was slightly off and it ended up crooked (I think it was slightly crooked the first time too) so I removed it for a second time!

 

Since I had already beveled the top, I used the table to line up the bevel on the transom to the angle on the knee. This time it looked much better. Not perfect, but again - I could do this all day.

 

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I did think about leaving it off until after planking and then gluing it flat to the transom and keel board at the same time, but figured I better stick with the correct order.

 

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Now onto the build board. First I cut the forms out, but looks like I had the same laser cut issue that I had on the dory. The cuts don't line up on each side of the tab. Both forms has the same issue.

 

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Most logs comment on some intervention to improve or stabilize the build board. There are issues to overcome and some 'making it work' to do, but nothing too big and having a build board is far more useful than not having one!

 

The transom holder slots are too loose, the form slots are way to tight. I filed down the slots, lightly sanded the forms, used tape to hold the aft transom, used some paper to tighten up the bow transom and got it all in working order without too much effort. Of course I got so focused on making everything fit solidly, I ended up gluing the bow holder in backwards. Best to fix that or may end up with a funny looking boat.

 

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The odd cuts on the bottom of the form leaves a weird gap, but it's consistent between both. I don't think it will be large enough to cause any issues. I just don't know if they're sitting at the right height, or if they should be a bit lower.

 

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Here's the board with seated transoms, ready for planking.

 

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 I started messing around when I was taking pictures of the bow transom because I was amazed at how much detail it was picking up - like a digital magnifying glass (it turns on macro mode or something). Eventually it refocused right through the hole! I was amazed - the next picture is looking straight through it! 😅

 

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Alright, that's enough screwing around.

 

I'm excited for the hull to take shape as I begin planking, as well as nervous about it... I wonder if that ever goes away.

 

Thanks for following.

Matt

Edited by MBerg
Image keeps popping up at the end of the post.

On the slip:

Norwegian sailing pram

 

On the drafting table:

OcCre Polaris

Muscongus Bay lobster smack

 

Completed:

Lowell Grand Banks Dory

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Very nice start, looking forward to following this build!

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