USS PANAY (PR-5) by Haze Gray - 3D printed - RADIO

[Haze Gray]

I'm sure I'm not the only one who has seen and enjoyed the movie "Sand Pebbles" - I remember watching it on a tube TV back when I was a kid and was completely captivated by it.  And although the USS Panay was not the ship from the movie the Panay still has similar design ques and has an interesting history.....While the design of the hull was difficult and less than perfect, I've started working up the ship and will enjoy building it out!

Edited November 25, 2024 by ccoyle
corrected log title

[yvesvidal]

Interesting project. Please, make sure you post figures of your 3D design and perhaps think of how this can be turned into a virtual kit for 3D printing enthusiasts. You have made some very serious 3D models in the past and there may be a few aficionados that would love to build your kits. I know I like these dreadnoughts that you built in the past.

 

Yves

Edited November 25, 2024 by yvesvidal

[Ian_Grant]

Agreed.....I just bought a 3D printer capable of printing large sections of a ship's hull. Would be way cool.

[Haze Gray]

[Haze Gray]

Things are moving along but running into a few areas that I will need to rework - will probably take a bit of a rest over the thanksgiving break........     By the way, at 1/35 scale the Panay is still a very large model (about 5 1/2 feet long!) 

 

Edited November 27, 2024 by Haze Gray
original scale noted was incorrect - actual scale is 1/35

[Ian_Grant]

7 hours ago, Haze Gray said:

Things are moving along but running into a few areas that I will need to rework - will probably take a bit of a rest over the thanksgiving break........     By the way, at 1/72 scale the Panay is still a very large model (about 5 1/2 feet long!)

Is there a typo there?  At 1/72 scale the 197ft Panay would be 2.7ft long. This is the Panay PR-5?

[Haze Gray]

Hummm  okay so now I see what I did wrong - I have a spreadsheet that auto-calculates the dimensions and based on the scale I'm planning to use.... except looking at the table it's clear I accidentally selected 1/35 instead of 1/72 !   LOL !!!!   

 

 lessoned learned... 😃

 

 

 

[Ian_Grant]

That would have been quite the opportunity to have fine detailing, and fine crew figures too.

[That_1Nathan_Guy]

Another very cool subject to model!  I'm looking forward to seeing more of it! I'd do one at 1/35, but I'll have to finish some other projects first.

[Haze Gray]

1 hour ago, That_1Nathan_Guy said:

Another very cool subject to model!  I'm looking forward to seeing more of it! I'd do one at 1/35, but I'll have to finish some other projects first.

 

Yes - actually I'm doing it at 1/35 too!

[ddp]

Haze Gray, i have the drawings of BOUVET 1896 17.4mb , JAUREGUIBERRY 1893 16.5mb  & MASSENA 1898 6.41mb saved on my computer from the French naval site years ago before that site got hacked & shutdown so if you need a copy, let me know.

BOGP's PG45 USS Panay 1928 (Yangtze River Gunboat, reclassified PR‑5 '28)  

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/mz81mayc5eoa6svhws8cy/ACbuzDy6E6HS2hT_gcp98o8/PG45 USS Panay 1928 (Yangtze River Gunboat%2C reclassified PR‑5 '28)?dl=0&rlkey=wolm1da4b6wtrvw7yi1tbszyc&subfolder_nav_tracking=1

Edited December 4, 2024 by ddp

[Keith Black]

 The Panay (PR-5) was launched in 1927. Shouldn't this build be in the 1901 to Present Day build log group?

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Panay_(PR-5)

[mtaylor]

On 12/4/2024 at 9:51 PM, Keith Black said:

 The Panay (PR-5) was launched in 1927. Shouldn't this build be in the 1901 to Present Day build log group?

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Panay_(PR-5)

Haze, if this is correct, let any moderator know and the log can be moved.

[Haze Gray]

On 12/4/2024 at 12:54 PM, ddp said:

Haze Gray, i have the drawings of BOUVET 1896 17.4mb , JAUREGUIBERRY 1893 16.5mb  & MASSENA 1898 6.41mb saved on my computer from the French naval site years ago before that site got hacked & shutdown so if you need a copy, let me know.

BOGP's PG45 USS Panay 1928 (Yangtze River Gunboat, reclassified PR‑5 '28)  

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/mz81mayc5eoa6svhws8cy/ACbuzDy6E6HS2hT_gcp98o8/PG45 USS Panay 1928 (Yangtze River Gunboat%2C reclassified PR‑5 '28)?dl=0&rlkey=wolm1da4b6wtrvw7yi1tbszyc&subfolder_nav_tracking=1

Hello ddp, yes I have the same drawings - French ships are a bit of a passion for me so I grabbed as many as I could find!  Messena is one that I've already started but put it on the back burner for now....   the "Hoch" is about 60% done and I'm going to make an attempt at Carnot when I get more time. 

[Haze Gray]

As you can see I've been working on the hull alot and figured out a way to drive the three rudders at the same time using a single servo since there's not much space in the aft section of the ship

 

- Haze Gray

Edited December 21, 2024 by Haze Gray
updated info on number of rudders

[yvesvidal]

Nice piece of hull that you printed. I wish you could show us some of the parts that were printed before the assembly.

I like the belt for the rudders. Very clever.

 

Yves

[Ian_Grant]

Nice mechanism!

[Haze Gray]

18 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

Nice piece of hull that you printed. I wish you could show us some of the parts that were printed before the assembly.

I like the belt for the rudders. Very clever.

 

Yves

Hi Yves, technically the hull is assembled but it's not permanent at the moment - I use heat-set inserts and machine screws to join the sections and to ensure things line up right - once everything looks good I'll spread a thin layer of epoxy one the faces of the hull sections and screw everything together permanently.    Below are some pictures of the hull sections 
- Haze Gray

[Ian_Grant]

Just out of curiosity, do you print these in PETG for outdoor use, as opposed to PLA?

[Haze Gray]

33 minutes ago, Ian_Grant said:

Just out of curiosity, do you print these in PETG for outdoor use, as opposed to PLA?

currently I use PLA+ which is not at susceptible to heat as regular PLA but for ships that would be painted black for authenticity I would choose ABS or ASA, but if they are painted white they tend to do pretty well.  I've tested some hull sections made in white PLA+ by putting them out in the sun and left them outside over two years and they were fine.   However one of the hull I painted in green and exposed it to the sun during summer warped pretty bad withing an hour.  small thin detailed parts that are not painted white or light brown for instance should be abs or ASA otherwise they will warp or deform.  I don't use PetG as it's more difficult to sand out the layer lines and the region I live in usually doesn't have alot of sun and heat. if you live in arazona pet G, asa, or abs would be necessary

[Ian_Grant]

Thanks! Summers are for RC boats and days can be hot here. I was advised by the local 3D shop to use PETG not PLA since as you say it can warp. ABS is not an option for us due to fumes which would be deadly for our parrot; nor is my printer enclosed for fume safety. I'm not planning on  printing hulls; I just want to print some parts for the superstructure, and the stacks.

 

Looking forward to seeing more of your build!

 

Ian

[Dr PR]

Thermal effects are important, and the larger the model the greater the effect.

 

A fellow in Australia made a 1:72 R/C model of an aircraft carrier that was about 4 meters (4 yards) long. He made the hull framing and structure out of wood and the decks and hull sides were styrene. Wood has a low coefficient of thermal expansion (how much a material expands with temperature changes) and styrene and other plastics have relatively high coefficient. The decks were painted dark gray, and when the model was out in the sun the plastic warmed up - especially the flight deck - and expanded. With a 20 degree Celsius change 4 meters of styrene will expand about 5 mm (1/4 inch). Unfortunately the flight deck was anchored well to the wooden frame at the bow and stern so the plastic could not get longer. Instead the deck bowed up seriously, and the side plating pulled loose. In just a few minutes months of work were wrecked!

 

You would think that a 3D printed model would not have any problems since the entire structure is made of the same plastic material and should all expand/contract evenly. However a R/C model will have the lower part of the hull in cool water and the upper parts will be exposed to sunlight and heated - especially if the decks are painted dark gray. At some model length this has to be taken into consideration or the hull will "hog" (become banana shaped) if the top expands faster than the bottom. The stresses might cause it to break apart.

 

This is a consideration for real ships. In theory the steel hull of the 610 foot (186 meter) cruiser I was on could vary in length about 5 inches (127 mm) between arctic and equatorial waters. Actually it would be a bit less than that because the hull interior was heated in cooler areas and cooled in warm waters.

[Haze Gray]

Hello all - just an update with some photos - the hull is just about 

 

- Haze Gray