HMS Harpy 1796 by Glenn-UK – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Glenn-UK]

Another new dawn and another new Vanguard Model to build, namely the HMS Harpy. I have been looking forward to starting this build since receiving the kit last month but I decided it was better to complete my work on HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne build.

 

I really like the look of the HMS Harpy and have been very impressed with the design work. I hope that my modelling skills will enable me to do justice to this kit, noting there is still many areas for me to work on to get better results.

 

The shipyard has been cleaned, the tools are ready so it is now time for lights, camera and action.

Building The Cradle

As with many of the Vanguard Model kits there is an MDF build cradle to assemble. A clear perspex cradle is also provided to display the completed model.

Using a sharp craft knife the tabs were cut free from the MDF sheet. I like to score to tabs top and bottom as I find this ensures the parts come out clean and minimal work is then required to remove any unwanted tab nubs with a quick rub using a sanding block.

 

After a quick test fit of the component parts some Aliphatic Resin Wood Glue (Deluxe) was added to the locating slots and the cradle was assembled. Although not really necessary for the cradle, but is good practice, the excess wood glue was wiped clean.

 

After a busy morning in the shipyard it is now time for a well earned cup of Yorkshire tea.

 

[dunnock]

Looking forward to following your build Glenn. 

[Knocklouder]

Good luck on your journey 

Bob  M.

[Craigie65]

Looking forward to this build, popcorn at the ready. 🍿

[Glenn-UK]

It is now time to start the Harpy build in earnest. The first task was to remove the bulkheads from the MDF sheets. There are 17 bulkheads in total. There are laser engraved guide lines on bulkheads 1, 2 & 3 which enable these parts to have the initial pre fairing bevelling. I really like this design aspect.

I used a combination of a Ginour rotary tool and sanding stick to bevel these bulkheads to the guide lines. Bulkheads 1 -16 were then inserted into their respective positions on the keel, ensuring they were all fully engaged. As per normal with the Vanguard Model builds no glue is used as this stage.

The keel is very flimsy so thankfully this is soon corrected when the two keel doublers are added. To ensure these keel doublers are correctly aligned they are held in place using a series of locking keys.

The basic hull frames is then strengthen further when the two longitudinal support parts were pushed into place.

 

It was then time to check the installation of the two lower deck bases. No problems were encountered. There are locking keys to hold these deck bases in place, once fitted. However, before that can be done the laser engraved deck patterns need to be glued to the deck bases.

When removing the removing the bulkheads I also removed all the other parts from the MDF sheets which were

a) the various gun port jigs

b) the sail room framework

c) Two stern cabin frameworks.

When test fitting the forward laser engraved deck pattern there seemed to be a slight alignment issue when using pins located in the eyebolt openings. When I positioned the laser engraved deck using the sail room frame, I was much happier with the overall alignment, but I may need to use a micro drill for some of the eyebolts. In the photo below the laser etched deck is only dry fitted as I was checking which rubber bands would be best to hold the deck in place while the glue cures. I also want to check the other items will fit in the various positions before I commit to gluing the parts in place.

When looking at the laser engraved scuttles, I did consider copying Blue Ensign approach to plank the deck base and to add scuttle covers but after a little bit of thought I have decided to just use the laser engraved deck pattern as is. I will plan to follow Blue Ensign idea to fit a printed brick pattern for the stove base area as I think that it really enhances the build. I have also ordered some different hinges and handles from Syren which I will use for all the internal panel doors, as I really liked the ones Blue Ensign has fitted.

Edited January 8 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Today's task was to glue the two laser etched patterns to the forward and rear deck bases. This was a task that I took my time, with plenty of dry fitting of items that would be added later on in the build process.

 

I started with the rear deck section. After checking the rear cabin pattern would locate in the slot I brushed plenty of plenty of wood glue on the base and I carefully aligned the laser etched deck pattern and used plenty of clamps. I also made sure once the deck pattern was in place that the rear cabin pattern would still locate in the slot. All was good, as can be seen in the photo below.

Once the clue had cured the clamps were removed and the assembly was added to the hull framework. The deck is held in place with 4 locking keys, as indicated by the blue arrows in the following photo. I was very pleased that everything was a perfect fit and the locking keys were inserted without any issues.

The rear panel was test fitted once again, and all looks good.

Before adding the laser etched deck to the front deck base I wanted to make sure that the various key components would locate in their respective slots. This is shown in the next two photos. All looks good.

It was now a case of brushing plenty of glue to the base and then clamping the laser etched deck in place. I used the sail room framework assembly to ensure the laser etched deck was correctly aligned.

As the glue was curing I made a few more checks that the various deck items would locate fully in their respective slots. By taking my time with the aspect of the build I am very happy that the various deck items could be fitted without any issues.

It was then a case of adding the forward deck assembly to the hull frame work. Once again the locking keys were inserted without any issues. The two cable house sides were also added to the hull frame and were locked in to place using a series of locking keys. The deck items and cabin patterns were test fitted (again). I have also checked the fitting of one of the deck beams and I was pleased that it was a perfect fit.

So far so good and I think taking time to double check the fittings before gluing parts together has certainly paid dividends. There are a few more parts to add before diluted glue will be painted in to the various bulkhead and deck joints.

Edited January 9 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Today was a day looking after one our young grandkids so my time in the shipyard was very limited to about 20 minutes.  That said that was enough time to do a few tasks.

 

I started by pre-fairing the four bow planking patterns to the laser etched guide lines and then they were slotted in to place, noting these parts were glued.

 

Once that was done the two top bow planking patterns were glued in place.

Moving swiftly on, after a quick dry fit check the following stern patterns were glued in place, in the following order

a) 2 off stern frame patterns (inner)

b) Bulkhead 17, after it the top edge had been beveled to the laser etched guide line.

c) 2 off stern frame outer patterns, complete with the rear cabin assemblies.

Once that was done the hull was turned upside down and diluted Titebond wood glue was brushed in all the deck and bulkhead joints. The hull will now be left overnight to allow plenty of time for the glue to fully cure.

 

According to the plans the next task will be to add the various internal panels. I will have to put this on the back burner as I have to pick up my order of sander sealer on Monday from a local supplier, as I intend to paint these patterns before they are fitted. Also I plan to use same hinge and door handles which I have ordered from Syren (USA). The order has been shipped to the UK but I expect it will probably take a week or two before the parts get delivered. There are plenty of other jobs I can do in the meantime.

[Desertanimal]

Looks great. I’ll be watching!👍

[Glenn-UK]

Spent the day looking at the next few build stages to see if there are any potential things that may need a bit of work. With the various side patterns clamped in place I did a trial fit of all the upper deck beams. I was very pleased that, with the exception of deck beams 2, 3 and 7, all the remaining deck beams were a perfect fit. This can be seen in the two photo below, as indicated by the yellow arrows.

As can be seen in the next photo I am also checking the fit of the sail room side patterns with the beams in place. No problems were detected.

There were no issue fitting deck beams 2, 3 and 7 when the side patterns were not fitted. The problem was solved when I lightly sanding the laser char from the side pattern deck beam slots using a narrow gauge 400-grit sanding stick. As can be seen in the next photo (yellow arrow) I am not totally happy with how the forward deck pattern is sitting. This is due to the addition of adding the two side cabin patterns. A little bit of fine adjustment will be required when these parts are installed to get patterns to sit flush.

I decided to paint the frames of the deck gratings black. After taping the central grating areas I applied a coat of wipe on varnish (WOP). Once that had fully dried I applied two coats of matt black paint. I am very pleased with the end result and they look very good. They are test fitted in the next two photos. You will also note I have started to clean the laser char from the top of the deck beams and bitts.

The mid section deck pattern, which sits right behind deck beam 11, is a very good fit.

The following photo shows the lower deck with some of the deck beams and deck items dry fitted. Even at this very early stage the Harpy is certainly an impressive looking model and I think it will look even better once the outer decorative patterns have been painted. I am thinking of using a light grey, AK11817 RLM65 rather than a flat red colour.

Next I looked at test fitting the sail room outer patterns. As can be seen in the next two photos there is a bit of work required to get a nice neat finish, as they are not flush fitting.

 

After a little bit of sanding to remove the excess tab material the sail room patterns were a much better fit, as can be seen in the next photo.

 

[SaltyScot]

And this is why dry fitting is so very important. Very nice work, Glenn. I may just pull up a keg and follow along.

[Glenn-UK]

38 minutes ago, SaltyScot said:

And this is why dry fitting is so very important. Very nice work, Glenn. I may just pull up a keg and follow along.

Agreed

[Glenn-UK]

Following on my last post I have now removed the laser char from the all the deck beams and additional filler pieces. With another dry fit all the parts are a perfect fit. At this stage it is always a good idea to check the various dowels will locate through the various access holes. As can be seen in the following photo there are no issues.

I really liked @Blue Ensign idea of adding a stone floor effect to the stove area. After looking for some suitable image files I downloaded a couple of different patterns. Once I had resized the images they were printed out. Although I prefer the top pattern, as shown in the photo below, there is an embedded watermark which means I am unable to use that image.

After carefully cutting the holes for the bitts and stove I did a trial fit of the pattern. Overall it does not look too bad. I will need make another floor tile pattern as the one shown below is a tad too small. I am also deciding weather to glue the floor tile pattern to a 0.8mm wooden base before adding it to the deck. I will also compare the floor tile pattern with a version printed on photographic paper. This will probably be a bit bright and shiny.

 

Edited January 12 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

The first photo in this post shows the stove base assembly which I have made. The printed floor tile pattern has been glued to a 1mm thick base plate, which had been painted black. The printed tile pattern was smaller than the base plate so there is a nice black surround.

I decided to paint the internal lower deck panels a light grey colour. Before applying a couple coats of paint the patterns were sealed. I am still waiting for the delivery of door hinges & handles from Syren which I will add to these panels before they are fixed in place on the harpy lower deck. 

I opted to use some Amati eyebolts and rings for the hatch covers, as shown below. After I added the rings to 56 eyebolts they were chemically blackened and inserted to the lower deck.

The next photo shows the stove assembly dry fitted to the deck with the upper deck beams also dry fitted.

The next two photos shows the sail room assembly dry fitted to the deck along with the dry fitted deck beams. I will probably use some diluted wood filler to fill in the gaps between the frame and outer patterns.

The final two photos shows the lower deck arrangement, with deck beams, gratings, stove and sail room dry fitted. The two long inner bulwark patterns have been glued. I did use deck beams 2 and 10 to ensure these panels were correctly positioned. Once I was happy with the positioning the deck beams were removed and plenty of clamps were then added. 

 

[ECK]

You and Blue Ensign giving me many thing to think of. I already got the door fittings from Syren Ship Models

[Glenn-UK]

1 minute ago, ECK said:

You and Blue Ensign giving me many thing to think of. I already got the door fittings from Syren Ship Models

We aim to please 🙏 

[EspenT]

On 1/14/2025 at 6:54 PM, Glenn-UK said:

 Before applying a couple coats of paint the patterns were sealed. I am still waiting for the delivery of door hinges & handles from Syren which I will add to these panels before they are fixed in place on the harpy lower deck. 

 

 

Is Sanding Sealer the same thing as a primer?

[SaltyScot]

22 minutes ago, EspenT said:

Is Sanding Sealer the same thing as a primer?

Here is a bit of info on that EspenT:

 

Key differences:

• Primary function:

  Sanding sealer focuses on sealing wood pores and creating a smooth finish, while a primer focuses on enhancing adhesion between the surface and paint. 

   
• Application:

  Sanding sealer is typically used on bare wood before applying a finish, whereas a primer is often applied to new or problematic surfaces before painting. 

   
• Composition:

  Sanding sealers often contain ingredients like zinc stearate to fill wood pores, while primers can have different compositions depending on the surface they're designed for. 

   

  Source: Google Search

[Glenn-UK]

Whilst waiting for the door hinges and handles parts I have ordered to arrive I decided to build the two small boats. After painting the both hulls white (internal and external) I added a black wale and a red top band. I also added a small red band on the inner top edge of the smaller cutter. The hull painting is not perfect but passes muster for me.

 

Next I applied an oak wood stain to all the wooden parts. I liked the natural wood effect for the smaller boat inner fittings. I thought the larger cutter would look better with a coloured internal paint scheme. I opted for flat red for the internal ribs and matt black for all the other wooden internal parts.

 

Both rudders were painted white.

 

With regards to the both sets of ships oars I kept the oak stain for the shafts and white paint for the scull oar ends.

The package from the USA arrived and I was pleased that I could continue on with the main ship build. Unfortunately I did not check what I was ordering. I mistakenly thought the hinges and handles were included in the parts I was ordering, In actual fact I had only ordered the handles. Thankfully Chuck was able to help me out and the hinges are now being shipped over to the UK for me. I did fit the handles to the panels and I really like the effect.

Now that I have more time to kill whilst I wait for the hinges to arrive I decided to move on to building the cannons and carronades. After removing the wooden parts I applied a coat of wood sealer

Concentrating on the two cannons the various wooden parts were painted red. Tape was then applied to the four carriage sides and the cannon caps were painted black.

The cannon wooden parts are now ready for the assembly phase.

[ECK]

Did the same thing ordering the handles and then had to order the hinges. Fortunately being in the US shipping takes a bit less time.