HMS Harpy 1796 by Glenn-UK – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[SaltyScot]

I can only agree with Bob there Glenn. Very nice indeed sir.

[Glenn-UK]

Many thanks Mark, much appreciated

[Glenn-UK]

Today has been a very productive day in the shipyard. The hinges, ordered from Syren in the USA, arrived today so I was able to add them to the inner panels. The door handles and hinges from Syren do add an extra dimension to the model.

 

The inner panels were then secured to the hull, quickly followed by the deck beams and carlings, as can be seen in the photo below.

I much prefer using @Chuck hinges and handles compared to photo etched equivalents. They look great, they do not require blackening and they are very easy to fit. The next photo shows one of the inner door panels complete with hinges and handles. I did follow @Blue Ensign build and removed the right-angle part from the upper hinges.

The following selection of photos shows some different aspect of the deck beams, carlings, deck fittings and panels. You will note that I test fitted the various dowels to ensure there is no alignment issues.

The next task was to slot the upper deck base pattern into place. On my first fitting there seemed to be a very slight issue with fitting bow area. With the deck fully engaged in the bulkhead notches the bow area was not sitting flat across the bow deck beams. After removing the laser char from the edges of the upper deck pattern bulkhead slots it was a perfect fit, as can be seen the final set of photos.

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

My main objective today was to fair the hull. This was a fairly painless exercise and did not take too long to complete approx. 90 minutes in total.

 

I started by using my Amati sanding block (loaded with 120-grit sandpaper) on the bulkhead ears. Once I was happy with how they were looking I moved to fairing the mid ship ship sections, using a mixture of my Amati sanding block and Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit).

 

Next I moved on to fairing the stern area. For this I used my Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit), my thin standing sticks and 120 grit sandpaper. This took a bit more time and effort and once completed I was happy that there was full contact with a test plank.

It was then time to fair the bow area. Once again I used my Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit), my thin standing sticks and 120 grit sandpaper. Once completed I was happy that there was full contact with a test plank.

I did smooth the sanded hull using a 400 grit sanding stick.

 

Next I did a quick test fit the prow, keel and stern post and was very happy with how they looked. If I get time later today I will glue them in place as it is now time for my daily afternoon run.

Edited January 23 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Not spent much time in the shipyard over the last few of days. The rear stern counter patterns have been glued in place and the excess material sanded smooth to the hull sides.

The bow sections of the two outer bulwark patterns, after being soaked in hot water for a few minutes, were clamped to a plastic measuring jug and left to fully dry out out.   I was was happy with how the patterns fitted around the bow, as can be seen in the next photo.

When checking the position of the bulwarks there is a laser engraved line, the lower line needs to be aligned with deck base. In the photo below the test fitting of the pattern is a tad high.

The patterns have now been glued in place. I will take some photo's once the glue has had sufficient time (overnight) to cure. I only applied glue to the area below the laser engraved deck lines on the bulwark patterns.

Edited January 26 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

I decided to make some simple planking clamps. These were made using some 1 x 5mm planking material I have left over from previous model builds.

In the next picture I am using one of my clamps to secure the bulwark pattern to the bulkheads.

The following photo shows the hull complete with the bulwark patterns glued in place.

In the next three photos the bulwark pattern laser etched guide line is nicely aligned with the deck pattern.

And now some more photos of the bulwark patterns.

It was now time to start adding the first planking. I start by positioning the plank and marking its position on the central bulkhead, as shown below. This is because, when gluing the plank, I like to work from the central bulkhead and to pin alternate sides as I work toward the bow and stern.

Using three of my clamps the plank is held in position so I can determine where the plank starts to flow above the bulwark pattern. The plank is marked so it can be tapered.

A lateral bend is then added to the plank.

The plank was then glued and pinned in place.

There will a total of 18 planks per side required at the midships.

Edited Monday at 05:53 PM by Glenn-UK

[ECK]

Nice. I noticed the same issue I run into where the first plank runs around the ow but leaves a gap between the plank and the bulwark.

[Glenn-UK]

Not a great start to the day. When I went into the shipyard to add the first plank to the other side I noticed a problem with the alignment right-hand bulwark (left side when looking at the photo below) pattern.

 

Although the pattern laser etched guide lines are perfectly aligned to the deck for the most part, it can be seen the bow section must have slipped during the clamping process, which I had not noticed. I think, after clamping the bow section, I was so focused on aligning the pattern using the laser etched guide lines, I did not recheck the bow section after all the clamps and pins had been added.

When looking at the next photo it can be seen that the problem starts somewhere between the last two bulkheads.

My initial reaction was leave it has fitted and trust that it would not be that noticeable as the build progresses. Then the newer version of my said

 

"Stop! this is shoddy workmanship and is simply not acceptable".

 

With a little bit of fear and trepidation I brushed plenty of warm water to the wood glue area. After a few minutes I started to ease the pattern away from the bow and two leading bulkheads. Thankfully I was able to do this without causing any significant damage.

 

It was then a case of repositioning the pattern around the bow section. It took a few attempts before I was happy with the alignment. With clamps holding the pattern in place I left the shipyard. 

A couple of hours later I returned to the shipyard to remove the clamps and thankfully the bow pattern looks so much better, as can be seen by looking at the out of focus picture below. It is not 100% perfect but I have deemed it acceptable.

The pattern laser etched lines are now aligned with the deck.

 

[Blue Ensign]

"Stop! this is shoddy workmanship and is simply not acceptable".

 

Good decision Glenn 👍

 

B.E.

 

[ECK]

Glad you caught it. Same thing almost happened to me. Seems when you align the stern it twists the bow upwards.

[Glenn-UK]

6 minutes ago, ECK said:

Glad you caught it. Same thing almost happened to me. Seems when you align the stern it twists the bow 

I did chamfer the two stem post fillers which maybe added to the issue. When lined up with the bulkhead guide lines the front bulwark starboard pattern tab sat flush with the stem post slot rather than being pushed in and held in place which did not help.

[SaltyScot]

It is always a good feeling when you correct something that is not 100% right. If you didn't it would gnaw away at you and leave a sense of not having done the job to the best of your ability. Good call, Glenn.

[Glenn-UK]

Progress is slow and steady with the first planking. I did take a couple of days off from the shipyard as I had 1000 piece jigsaw to do, as it was an XMAS present from my youngest son.

 

In the first set of photos below I have added 4 strakes per side. I am also marking the position of the bulkheads on the strakes after the pins are removed.

The next set of photos is a tutorial on how not to plank🤣. It works well for me however.

 

I start the process by shaping the strake's bow edge.

Next I mark the required taper for the bow section.

After the taper has been cut the strake is test fitted and the central point for the lateral taper is marked.

With the strake in the required position I add an alignment mark on the central bulkhead. When gluing the strake in place I like to work outwards from the centre.

Next I look at how the strake looks at the stern and mark where I will add an anti-clockwise (for the left had side) twist to get a better fit.

After holding the strake in some warm water for a minute or two it is clamped to the bench so the lateral bend can be set. I use a hairdryer on a hot air setting for a couple of minutes to dry the strake. The strake is then test fitted, and if necessary the bend is adjusted.

With the stern section of the strake dampened the anti-clockwise twist is added. I do this by applying the twist manually with my hands.

Wood glue is added to the various bulkheads and I also add some addition glue to the bow end of the strake. The plank is then positioned, using the central mark. Pins are then added moving outwards, equally from the central point. Any excess glue is wiped away as each pin is added.

With the strake pinned in place a final check is made to check the contact with the bulkheads and to remove any remaining excess glue from the bulkheads beneath the strake.

[SaltyScot]

6 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

The next set of photos is a tutorial on how not to plank🤣. It works well for me however.

 

As long as it works for you, Glenn, and you are happy with it, that is all that matters. It looks like a simple but quite effective system if you ask me sir.

Edited 58 minutes ago by SaltyScot