HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768

[russ]

Looks good so far. Nice work.

 

Russ

[GuntherMT]

You picked quite a whopper for your first rigging job.  Sure looks great to me though!

[RGL]

Nice work mate, much cleaner than mine

[Jim Lad]

She' looking absolutely first class, Pat.  Enjoy the holiday.

 

John

[BANYAN]

Thanks guys, I'll certainly enjoy the break.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[mikec]

She looks fantastic. Can you please advise what size and make of thread you are using?

or are you making your own?

[mtaylor]

Great looking rigging, Pat.  Have a good holiday.

[BANYAN]

Hi and thanks to all whom have looked in and offered encouragement; much appreciated. 

 

Mike, I have used a combination of scale rope that I have made (standing rigging which is LH laid) and MoRope for the running rigging (the beige coloured stuff).  Chuck did not have his rope available at the time I purchased the MoRope, otherwise I would have used that, until I get to grips with making 'consistently' good RH laid on my Byrnes ropewalk.  The standing rigging varies between 1.2mm to 0.5mm for the standing rigging depending on purpose and position (smaller dimensions as I go upwards in the rigging), and between 0.8mm down to 0.25mm for the running rigging.  I will probably use 0.15 scale rope for the rattlin.  I use Gutterman cotton (appropriate colour) for my seizings. With this model scaled at 1:60, I think these sizes are generally right.  I used the excellent spreadsheet produced by Danny and Jim Lad to calculate the rigging sizes but I have 'generalised' some rigging so that I did not have to have a lot of different sizes.  Basically, I have rounded to the 'nearest' size in my inventory of scale rope available, but ensuring sizes change in accordance with purpose etc as stated earlier.  I hope that answers all your questions Mike?

 

It may be a few days between looking in for the next couple of weeks so bear with me please if I do not respond overnight

 

cheers

 

Pat

[mikec]

Hi, is the mainmast and mizzen mast racked back? I am about to work on this and i think the kit has them at 90 degrees. thanks Mike

[BANYAN]

Hi Mike, yep those two are. at about 7 degrees aft rake (83 degrees from the deck) according to the kit instructions (AL) which I think were about right but I would need to check the other reference material I have.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[mikec]

Thanks heaps. Lucky i checked. The Eagle moss kit makes no mention of this and the deck holes appear to align at 90 degrees. Easy fix though. ..

[BANYAN]

Hi again Mike.  I am back at home and have had a chance to check the paperwork and find I need to advise a small change.  While both he main and mizzen are raked back; the main is only 3 degrees (87 to the deck), the mizzen as advised.  The foremast is perpendicular to the deck/waterline.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[shipaholic]

Yeah Mike asked the same question on my build log - I measured the angles on the three 1768 draughts I have and they are the same as you indicated Pat

[mikec]

thanks heaps everyone 8-)

[mikec]

Sorry another question...

I am working on the masts, and applying the blocks.Page 101 of the AOTS book shows the main preventer stay block attached by a sling lashed around the lower part of the hounds. Page 114 appears tho show the same rig with the same block attached by eyebolt.

Which is correct??

[BANYAN]

Hi Mike, Karl's book can be confusing until you work out what he is doing with the drawings   I still need to double check myself.

 

The drawings on page 101 are the standing rigging associated with the mizzen, main and fore masts as generic depictions for the stay details (Figure H3/4) - it is not meant to represent the mainmast or the foremast, but both and then further detail is broken our as required for the mizzen mast on the page (diagrams below H3/4) and other pages. 

 

You need to reference back to page 95 with items 36, 37, 38 and 39 of interest, as are 57, 58 and 59.  Lets deal with the main mast first with reference to 57, 58 and 59. The mizzen stay is terminated with a heart and lashing to a sling with a heart collar around the base portion of the main mast.  The first detail drawing (lower left) on page 101 shows the rigging termination for the page 95 item 58 (Mizzen Staysail Stay) at callouts 11 (corresponding to 58), 12 and 13 which terminated at an eyebolt on the deck at the foot of the mast.  The second detail drawing (under H3/4 on page 101) shows the terminations/rigging for the mizzen topmast stay (no preventers).

 

Now let's deal with the Mainmast stays and preventers for which we need to treat figure H3/4 as the foremast.  Then  the main stay and main preventer terminate with hearts and collars at the foremast and near the jib respectively.  The preventer rigging is another story which I can deal with when you get there.  The main topmast stay (3) and stay preventer (5) are rigged as shown in this figure (H3/4) with both terminating with tackles at the deck as described at (7).  the main topgallant stay is terminated as a hitch to the main topmast stay collar as shown at (4).

 

The foremast stays and preventers are shown on page 95, items 15 through 19.

 

Now back to the main mast stay preventer, which leads past the foremast and all indications are that it terminates as a lashing (via hearts with a lanyard) to an eyebolt in the peak of the ship to stbd of the boom.  If you project the line of this stay preventer on the drawing on page 95, this supports this.  However, to me that would put the rigging of this preventer in an awkward place for some anchor/cable working evolutions.  The folks on the Endeavour Replica must have thought the same and they use a unique lashing arrangement that employs a sling around the base of the jib boom and a 'scotchman' (anti-chafing device) on the stbd side of the foremast where the preventer will rub.  Jim Lad was kind enough to get some pictures of this for me which I post below.  Up to you which method you choose.

 

Page 114 is running rigging in my version of the book?  Could you please identify exactly where the confusion with the rigging block is as I can't find it - sorry

 

I hope this helps to clarify a bit?

 

cheers Pat

Edited December 22, 2014 by BANYAN

[mikec]

thanks heaps Pat, I will run with the replica set up I think.

Here is were my confusion is ( it didnt help that I gave you guys the wrong page numbers- should have been 104 and 117)

[MartyB]

Hello there Mr Banyan.  Your build is coming along very nicely indeed.  I am back on deck and about to start some deck planking.  If I am half as good as yourself I'll be happy.  Marty.

[BANYAN]

Hey, great to see and hear from you Marty, thanks for the kudos, but I have seen the work on your models and your more than up to my standards

 

I have just posted a very small update in the Latest Full Photograph section (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1589-latest-full-profile-photograph-of-your-build/page-54) and I will be providing a more complete update here at the end of this weekend - I have progressed a little more

 

cheers

 

Pat

[BANYAN]

Hi folks, as promised another small update - slowly getting there.  I am now working on the topmasts with only the shrouds on the foretopmast to go at this level.

 

I have also made a temporary cover to act as a dust cover when not working on her.

 

     

 

    

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[russ]

Pat:

The shrouds look very good. I also like the cover you have devised. Excellent work.

 

Russ

[Jim Lad]

Still coming along very nicely, Pat!

 

John

[BANYAN]

Another update, but to the workshop more so than Endeavour.

 

A fellow club member has assisted with some of the engineering which has helped greatly.  The duplicator (for my Sherline lathe)  is an adaption of a design by David Antscherl in his TFFM series.

 

I have yet to try this in fully-fledged anger, but the trials and testing is very pleasing.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

     

[Captain Slog]

Hi Pat,

 

Your Endeavour is coming along and looking great.

 

Love the cover!  My Endeavour is stored away until I have a dedicated work space and can keep it out and covered like you have done.

 

Slog

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Pat from Sydney.

Firstly I would like to say, your model is great. I'm building one myself, and I would like to ask a simple, but maybe a dumb question. I was planning to make all the mask first and then put them on the hull and then do or the rigging etc. Is this wrong and why?

The reason why I was going to do it my way (I'm not Frank Sinatra lol) because I want to have the main topmask stay and the fore stay to be a "straight line". This is what I have found out from my own research on the net etc.

I've a document writen by naval painter who painted the replica of the HMB ENDEAVOUR. She done a lot of research on the original Endeavour, and she felt what she was told to paint was not the truth. Hence her article. Very interesting read. I will try to post a pdf of the article, so everyone can read it.

Cheers

Greg

Ps. The file is 3.4 megabytes and is too big. I will try to cut it in half if I can an post it later.

Greg

[Keith_W]

Hey Pat, I am VERY INTERESTED in that duplicator! I am thinking of turning a whole bunch of balustrades, that duplicator would certainly come in handy. Where did you get it from? 

[BANYAN]

Hi Russ, John, Slog, Greg and Keith; many thanks for looking in and your interest in my build.

 

Greg, I'll PM separately; thanks for the offer of the article.

 

WRT masts, the way you suggest is the way most people do it.  To be totally honest, I made all the bits and then experimented to establish the best way for aligning the deadeyes/doing the shrouds.  I then forgot to remove them to do the upper work and I have progressed with building the masts on the model.  This has actually been beneficial in some respects but it is probably horses for courses as to your approach.  I am lucky in that I can adjust my work table up and down and I have a home built working rest for working on rigging that makes the task easier to do on the model.  I'll post a picky of it next update.

 

Keith the duplicator is a self design with some engineering work by a mutual acquaintance.  You would need to talk with him

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited January 20, 2015 by BANYAN

[mikec]

Hi Pat, just checking, were you aware that the scale for the top masts is wrong in AOTS? I am asuming you are using these plans and scaled up. I don't know if its photo distortion, but it looks to me that you have indeed not picked this up. The top masts look way too long. (I am hoping it is just a bad camera angle).

 

[BANYAN]

Thanks Mike, I wasn't aware of this and I will be very displeased () if I have this wrong - I will double check tonight)

 

cheers

 

Pat

[BANYAN]

Hi Mike - Very displeased but a valuable lesson learned.

 

You are absolutely right on both counts mate; the printed scale is incorrect - and I did use these and scaled accordingly.  I had a discussion with the author this afternoon - he was not aware of this himself and appreciated the feedback. It appears the publishers have rescaled his drawings (which were all 1/4":1') to fit the page but did not provide the correctly adjusted text  for the scale. I thought they looked a little too tall. This also explains why the mast caps weren't quite right - I thought it was my joinery.   At least I can reuse the topmasts to sand them down to the smaller sizes - using the AL kit 1:1 drawing at least the lower masts and the mizzen are correct (but I will check)  .  

 

Surprising this has not been reported before.  How did you pick up on by by the way?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited January 20, 2015 by BANYAN