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Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO


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I am going to suggest that the real reason you took these pictures outside was to tease us northerners that it is just coming into summer down under! :angry:

 

Very nice looking work by the way :)

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

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sturdy looking frame Steve.......very well done!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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I am going to suggest that the real reason you took these pictures outside was to tease us northerners that it is just coming into summer down under! :angry:

 

Very nice looking work by the way :)

You got me !

 

It is a great time of year to sit outside with a nice cold drink and a handful of sandpaper and frame parts.

 

Popeye, I am going for strong because I am from the old school of thinking where it is better to over engineer than under.

 

Steve

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Not much to see after hours and hours working on it but I have now got all the ribs seated properly and by marking the centre line on the deck section of the ribs and laying a plank along the deck I am able to make sure all the ribs are vertical, centred and the line of the deck flows properly.

 

post-697-0-53345800-1384251452_thumb.jpg

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This is my home made building stand. It was never intended for ships of this size.

 

post-697-0-14595000-1384251611_thumb.jpg

 

It should suffice !!

 

post-697-0-69197000-1384251672_thumb.jpg

 

Only problem is the clamping screws and stop screws which keep the jaws vertical are only 25mm long which is normally more than enough but they are just long enought to hold the bare keel but I am going to create a rabbet by attaching 1.5mm planks onto the keel, this will make it 13mm wide so it's off the the hardware store AGAIN !!

 

post-697-0-13736300-1384251738_thumb.jpg

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Looking good and straight from here !

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Steady on girl, I'm human and do have other things to do :D

There is so much thought going into every step because I have to be sure I do everything I need to before continuing, ie I have to work out where and how the prop shafts and sailing keel will mount before I do any planking. These ribs are 10mm thick too so fairing them is going to take quite a bit of effort and time.

Besides, this weekend I am getting away from 1:54 scale and taking on 1:1 I am going to Sydney to sail on the "James Craig"

 

She is a Barque so fore and main are square rigged and the mizzen is gaff rigged, I will be paying particular attention to how they employ the mizzen sails so I can learn how to sail this when it is finished.

 

That's not the only reason for going though  :)

 

Here is a link to pics I have posted of the James Craig, check again after the weekend, there should be a few more interesting ones

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4078-james-craig-sydney-australia/#entry115816

Edited by Bedford
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Steve,

 

Have a great trip!  It sound like a great adventure!

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Steve, the frames and keel  look really solid.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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The next step is to fit stringers along each side, one low and one for the deck to sit on. They will stiffen her up quite well I think.

 

I am in Sydney, staying at Darling Harbour so I just have a walk to the James Craig in the morning and I went and had a look at her tonight. She is uplit through the masts and rigging and looks beautiful. Sorry, no camera.

 

I paced her out and she is about 55 - 56 metres along the deck and my schooner is about the same in scale. I had a feeling they were the same size ships. This means tomorrows voyage should be very helpfull from what size the anchors are to the size of the shrouds, dead eyes and everything. I wish I had a note pad to take with me.

 

Steve

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Have a great adventure!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Steve, look for a notepad in the drawers at the hotel room...rooms in the states usually have one.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Yeah Robbyn I thought of that and I found one and put it where I wouldn't forget it.............and went without it :(

 

I did get a fair bit of stuff to use and because I understand it I remember it.

 

A little side point. They were talking about the names of the sails as you go up the mast. No-one knew what the one above the t'gallant is called, except for me, "Royal"

 

It is too late at night for me to post the pics but I will soon I promise.

 

Steve

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I have had my voyage and made my way home. It was a great experience and my inner thighs are still sore from trying to walk on the surging deck!

 

Lessons have been learned inspite of the fact that the mizzen sails were not used at all.

 

I now know that I need smaller anchors and the correct style is readily available, that's good news.

 

I learned how to tie things off in a later style especially the shroud lanyards. I also learned the lay of the running rigging, ie which ropes go where. I guess you could say I learned the ropes as it were.

 

However I also learned that I have to re-think how I was plannning to operate the sails. The topsails and stay sails on the model will stay as I had planned because it is reasonably correct given practical considerations. The main sails however need a 90 degree rethink, literally. I was planing on lowering the jibs and sails as I have seen on tv and in pictures over the years, this had it's own set of problems I was going to have to overcome. The mizzen sail on the James Craig is retracted like a curtain, ie the jib stays at its set height and the sail is drawn in towards the mast rather than down towards the boom.

 

This should solve a lot of the problems that I saw coming however I have to recalculate the rope movements etc. Must get onto that.

 

This shows the top corner of the sail in the retracted position and how it is drawn out.

 

post-697-0-39616900-1384864355_thumb.jpg

 

This shows one of the lines that are attached to the sail horizontally and the pulley it runs through to draw the sail in to the mast.

 

post-697-0-65428500-1384864380_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Some progress, not a lot to look at though.

 

First, I hooked up my dremel to the prop shaft to see how much water she will push. At about 5000 rpm there was not a lot of thrust but at 15 it was like a speed boat. I am thinking that my reduction gearbox motors are going to be way too slow so I will try removing the gearboxes or something once I have the hull sealed and can float her.

 

post-697-0-05744900-1385036546_thumb.jpg

 

Upper and lower stringers fitted and veneer to outside edge of keel attached. Next step is to add the veneers to the sides of the keel to create the rabbet.

 

post-697-0-03608600-1385036582_thumb.jpg

 

post-697-0-29988500-1385036604_thumb.jpg

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Right, my first request for input.

 

We all know what the inside is going to look like, a keel down the middle and ribs spaced along it, when planked there will be a void between each rib either side of the keel which I will need to be able to drain bilge water from.

 

If I drill holes in each rib to allow flow I then have to go to great lengths to make sure they are sealed completely to stop water getting into the ply and it will weaken the structure, if they are right at the bottom to allow all water to drain out then there will be nothing solid for the bottom planks to attach to.

 

 

 

 

From my own experience of working on full size boats, the best way to deal with any hole is to 'drill, fill and drill again'. That is, drill a hole, fill it with thickened epoxy and then drill through that (when it's set!) for the fixing. Done properly you'll leave a thin coating of epoxy around the circumference of the hole which seals the wood.

If I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself.

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Sorry Steve, much beyond my expertise to even offer a thought on a fix, but I am glad you found someone who knows. Looking forward to more pics of progress, I don't have to fully understand the concept of an RV boat to appreciate the beauty of an exceptional build.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Love that link, thanks.

If I am not mistaken they are under power for at least some of the clip so I am glad I decided to put power in mine.

 

I had a slight mishap with one of the prop shafts today, I was running it in the sink with the dremmel and forgot it was on a high speed, when I turned it on I didn't have hold of the shaft very well and now I have a bent prop shaft. Only a little but enough to cause vibration so I will order another one when I order my new anchors.

Edited by Bedford
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Ah so you are saying that I was right in the first place?

I hate when I second guess myself.

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Be vewy vewy quiet, we are hunting wabets !

 

I have finally done the rabets by planking the outside of the keel. This brings the keel thickness to 13mm which the plan calls for but there will also be a thin layer of fibreglass over it.

 

I have been agonising over where to mount the prop shafts etc but have decided that while it is unplanked I won't be able to see where they need to go and will focus too much on how they will sit with the ribs so I have decided to plank first and then see exactly where they need to go and then deal with the ribs. I do need to build mast seats and sailing keel mounts before planking though.

 

post-697-0-84014800-1385606517_thumb.jpg

 

post-697-0-92860200-1385606583_thumb.jpg

 

post-697-0-61991600-1385606609_thumb.jpg

 

This is the result of a mishap while swinging it around to work on the other side. The stringer hit a small vice and broke. Note to self, LOOK FIRST.

 

post-697-0-58182400-1385606639_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Yeah, good words those, it was astern too, that is the mizzen mast section.

 

Working on simple mast seats now but I have to stop because there is grass to be mown.

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looking very nice Steve......those rabbits are really cool!   once planked,  hopefully you won't have to drill through a rib structure to do the prop tubes.......there isn't much room to work with.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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As an ex RC sailor I'm enjoying your build.  She's looking fine.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Popeye I have a long 6mm drill bit so I should be able to handle the ribs where ever the tubes need to run. I may need to make some infill blocks to fill areas that might be hard to drill because of angles and proximity to edges but between the drill bit and the dremel I shouldn't have too much trouble.

 

There might be an interesting pic later today......

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