Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[fmodajr]

 

Message Port?

    Hello Frank; Are you sure this definition is correct, not mislabeled in translation?

I would have thought it was more like a scupper for draining wash-water from the pumps!

Another possibility, it could be a ballast port through which stones,etc. were loaded into

the ships hold.    Regards, pollex

Hello Pollex,

 

You may be right! I read somewhere (I don't remember where)  that this was the port where a small boat would pull up to and drop off letters and / or messages.

I may be wrong!

 

If anyone has more definitive knowledge of what the port was used for, let me know!

 

Thanks Pollex,

 

Frank

[marktiedens]

Hello Frank

 

You are correct - it is a message port .It is pictured in the Wasa Dream website - picture #170b.

 

regards,Mark

 

 

http://www.wasadream.com/Index/indexenglish.html

Edited August 29, 2014 by marktiedens

[fmodajr]

Hi Mark,

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me! I remember seeing it somewhere and it must have been at the Vasa Dream Web site, which I have book marked.

 

Thanks again,

Frank

[roger graul]

Frank, great shop. The combination of air filtration and vacuum shows forethought to personal safety and comfort. Question, where does the lathe reside?

 

Beautiful work Frank.

 

Roger

[fmodajr]

Frank, great shop. The combination of air filtration and vacuum shows forethought to personal safety and comfort. Question, where does the lathe reside?

 

Beautiful work Frank.

 

Roger

Hi Roger,

 

Thanks for your comments.

I currently do not have a lathe. That will be my next purchase in 2015!

In the meantime, I have been using my drill press for tapering my yards and for other items by modifying the table to support one end of the dowel, while using the drill chuck to hold the other end.

Any recommendations for a quality miniature lathe would be greatly appreciated. ( the scale models I like to work on are mostly 1:64 or 1:75)

 

Thanks,

Frank

[Richard Griffith]

Hi Frank, your question on lathes is easily asked, but difficult to answer.

 

It depends on the type of work you intend to do.  If the primary need is to taper spars, then you already have the DP and the technique, so you do not need a lathe for these.  If you intend to cut metal, such as cannons, bushes, mandrels, and other parts for engines or iron work, then a Sherline or Taig will do well.   The older Unimats (I think the /db models) are good, and available on ebay.  Do not get the newer ones as they have too much plastic and, I am advised, do not hold the tolerances very well.  I had the older Unimat for many years but sold it because I

 

One thing to keep in mind: no matter how big the machine, it seems to always be too small for some jobs.   So we make do, we improvise, hire out. 

 

Good luck, and above all, have fun.                                                           Duff

[Richard Griffith]

because I use my 10" Atlas lathe for nearly all my small and larger turning.  (I hit the send button too soon).               Duff

[fmodajr]

Thanks for the input Duff,

 

I have been looking at the Sherline lathes. They seem to have a lot of accessories that make the lathe very usable. I will check out the older Unimats also! (It all does get expensive!)

 

I'll probably have more questions to ask as I get closer to a purchase decision.

 

Thanks,

Frank

[Longstorm11]

Hi Frank,

 

I remember going to see the remains of the Wasa and trying to think just how great it must have been when she was launched, and just before the end of her fateful maiden voyage. You've created a beautiful image of what she must have been like. Well done.

 

Julian 

[roger graul]

Hi Frank, sorry for the delay (I seem to work way too much). Regarding a lathe I picked the Rikon model 70-100 with a Nova Midi chuck. It runs very smooth at all speeds and is equipped with an indexing wheel (handy when you need to mill flats on your work) all disclaimers implied.

I have recently seen advertised a "drill press lathe conversion" available from Woodstock International (#D4088) @ $30.36 US no idea if it works at our scale or even at all.

However you have accomplished your great work I seen no reason for change - keep doing what your doing the way you are doing it.

Friendly,

Roger

[fmodajr]

 

Hi Frank,

 

I remember going to see the remains of the Wasa and trying to think just how great it must have been when she was launched, and just before the end of her fateful maiden voyage. You've created a beautiful image of what she must have been like. Well done.

 

Julian 

Hi Julian,

 

Thank you for your kind remarks!

And thanks for visiting my log. It is appreciated!

 

Hopefully, I will have some updated pictures posted next week.

 

Frank

[fmodajr]

Hi Roger,

 

Thanks for you input. Quick question: Is the Rikon indexing wheel for milling flats accurate, useful, easy to use, worth it?

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

[roger graul]

Good evening Frank,

Personally, yes to all. When you have time please check this model out on the web, it's used by amateur's and pros alike.

Please keep the Wasa "lessons" coming.

Friendly,

Roger

[fmodajr]

Hi,

 

I continued by working on the figurines on both side of the ship.

 

I had to thin down the figurines, especially the large figures near the bow, in order to get them to fit above the gun ports. Then, as usual, I gold leafed them before mounting.

 

Large figurines (tight fit) on starboard and port sides.

 

I had to grind off some of the nails that were in the way for the smaller figurines.

Also, I inserted some wood shims to help support them.

I left some space below the top shim so that rigging line can pass thru this space later on.

 

Test fit of rigging line to make sure there were no obstructions

 

Installed figurines on port and starboard side

 

Added the chains to the rudder at this time. I blackened them before installation

 

Frank

 

Edited September 10, 2014 by fmodajr

[fmodajr]

Started working on the false cannon.

 

Painted them with a diluted black to match the deck cannon.

Then I sprayed on a coat of "Dull Cote" for handling.

 

Now installing the false cannon on the starboard side.

Previously, early in the build I milled a slot in the cannon housing and installed the false carriages.

Now, I just add some glue, slide in the cannon and lower onto the carriages.

Here are some pictures of the first side.

 

Now onto the port side.

Next up, I will start working on the anchor installation.

 

Thanks,

Frank

 

[fmodajr]

I now added the safety lines to the rudder per Landstom's book. According to Landstrom, the lines were used to "lift the rudder into place and as a means of preventing it from floating away if its fittings suffered damage." Also, "the lines could be used if need be to maneuver the rudder."

 

View from starboard and port.

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

[fmodajr]

Thanks for all the likes!

 

Working thru the anchors now!

 

Frank

[edmay]

Hello Frank, Very nice neat workmanship,you can be proud of a beautifully built model.Edwin.

[fmodajr]

Hi Janos,

 

Thanks for visiting!

To answer some of your questions about the leafing:

1) the gold leaf is so thin that if you breath on it, you can blow the sheet away! So, with regards to detail being lost on a carving, I don't think this will happen. I believe it goes on even thinner than a coat of paint and if you use a woman's makeup blush brush, you will be able to get the leaf into all the nooks and crannies and in my opinion, bring out even more detail.

2) I first used the gold leaf process back in 2008 on my "Italian Sciabecco" build. So it has been on for about 7 years. I keep the ship in a case for dust protection etc., so I removed the case today to take a look at the leaf. It shows no sign of deterioration, no looseness, and because it is actual 24 carrot gold, the "shininess" is unchanged.

The key to the whole process is the seizing glue that is put on first. It has to be given a chance to dry to a tacky feel (about 2 hours) before applying the gold. 

Here are some pictures of the gold leaf on the Sciabecco from 2007 - 2008.

 

3) I did not apply any lacquer or other sealer to the gold.

4) I order my leaf from "Sepp Leaf Products" in New York. If you view their catalog, you will see many different types of gold leaf and you can decide on how bright or dull you want the leaf to look on your ship.

 

I hope this helps,

 

Frank

 

 

 

[fmodajr]

 

 

Hello Frank, Very nice neat workmanship,you can be proud of a beautifully built model.Edwin

Hi Edwin,

 

Thanks for your kind comments,

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Beautiful gold leaf work. Whoa !!

 

Michael

[fmodajr]

I started working on my anchors for the ship.

(Sorry for the quality of some of the pictures. I was never good at photography!!)

 

The first thing I did was remake the anchor stocks. I did not like the ones that came with the kit. I remade them using walnut.

 

Drilled some small holes for the tree nails (Used the old anchor stocks for this illustration)

 

Using my tree nail tool, I cut some square stock of lighter wood and ran it thru the tool to make it round.

 

Glued and press fit into the anchor stock (Used the old anchor stocks for this illustration)

 

Sanded down flush on walnut stocks

 

Added the blackened nails to each side

[fmodajr]

Using dark brown rigging line, I wrapped the 2 large eyes for the anchors

 

Painted the anchors and assembled the stocks

 

Rigged the large anchor line and attached to the large eyes.

 

Took the blocks and added the hooks and wrapped with darkened thin metal straps

 

Added wrapped line to only one of the anchors. This is for the starboard side anchor, which I will show being hoisted up with davit. (I will have the port anchor shown in a stored position)

 

Rigged a double block to the starboard davit

 

I will mount the anchors soon and try to have an update early next week

 

Thanks,

Frank

 

[maggsl_01]

I LOVE the work you do on the anchors - and it is yet the stock we see... What else will you do with the anchor itself

 

I think I will improve the anchors with my Royal Caroline too... They look so "normal" when they come out of the box. Thx for the inspiration.

 

Cheerio

 

Max

[fmodajr]

Hi Max,

 

Thanks for the comments!

 

I have been trying to follow some of the illustrations from Landstron's book. Who knows how accurate things are!

 

Thanks

Frank

[fmodajr]

Finishing up the anchors!

 

So, working on the starboard side, trying to show the anchor being raised.

 

During a test fit of the anchor, I noticed that the assembly would be swinging loosely when finished, so I had to think of a way to protect and secure it without being noticed.

So I drilled and pinned the backside of the stock and drilled a corresponding hole on the side of the ship.

 

Now I pressed and glued the pin and stock into the side of the ship, holding the anchor assembly firm, without being noticeable.

 

Rigged the block and anchor to the bow davit

 

Rigged the other end of the anchor to the removable davit.

 

Finished the large anchor cable

 

[fmodajr]

Working on the port side, trying to show the anchor in a somewhat stored position.

 

Finished rigging the bow davit to the anchor ring and added support lines to the middle and end of the anchor.

 

View of finished port side

 

Coiled ropes from the bow davits terminal end

 

Coiled line from the starboard removable davit. 

 

Now onto the large pulleys above the mizzen mast  channels!

 

Thanks,

Frank

[Karleop]

Frank:  Very nice work with the anchors!!

 

Saludos, Karl

[fmodajr]

Thanks for all the likes!

 

Frank

[fmodajr]

I made the 2 pulleys, that sit above the mizzen mast channels, out of walnut. I made the sheaves out of a dowel of wood and grooved the outside diameter.

 

Pulley with sheaves pinned in place

 

Fitted on Port Side

 

Fitted on Starboard side

 

Drilled hole on both side, where the rigging from the pulleys will enter the ship side

 

Pulley and hole

 

So, after viewing Michael's (md1400cs) fine log and the discussions about removing the pin rails, (which apparently don't belong), I now have to figure out a way to remove them without damaging the ship or the cannon! Yikes, Will not be fun!

 

Thanks,

Frank